I have been using Mineral oil to soak into cross grained wood to lubricated
the cutting surface and reduce tearing. When I finish with Tung oil
afterwards, and the finish cures for a month, I sometimes get a white flake
appearance on the cross grain areas. Is this a reaction between Tung oil
and Mineral oil, or are the two compatable ?

Paul

As mineral oil never cures, you may have the same effect as a "blush" under
shellac or lacquer.

I would use the tung as a sanding lube, if I used sanding lube.

"paul rickard" wrote in message
news:QT4Xc.215416$gE.8122@pd7tw3no...
I have been using Mineral oil to soak into cross grained wood to
lubricated
the cutting surface and reduce tearing. When I finish with Tung oil
afterwards, and the finish cures for a month, I sometimes get a white
flake
appearance on the cross grain areas. Is this a reaction between Tung oil
and Mineral oil, or are the two compatable ?

Paul

Larry Cumba wrote:
Here's a quick finish I like to use. It's one third boiled linseed
oil, one
third denatured alcohol and one third clear shellac. When I need some
I usually go buy a quart of each and put them in a gallon jug. It
will
stay good a long time. With the lathe running about 1000 rpm or so
just apply it with a rag.

Larry this sounded good until I tried it!! It doesn't dry hard.
I used it to finish some new handles for my home made turning tools
and now after a week they are continue to show finger prints after
using them. I suspect the amount of oil is the problem. Most french
polish mixes require just enough oil to act as a lubricant. Usually 2
or 3 drops on the rag is more than enough. When the polish has been
left to harden a few days the oil is wiped from the surface with
alcohol and then the surface is buffed with soft lint free rags. Is
anyone else having a problem with this mix not drying hard?

Larry Cumba wrote:
Here's a quick finish I like to use. It's one third boiled linseed
oil, one
third denatured alcohol and one third clear shellac. When I need some
I usually go buy a quart of each and put them in a gallon jug. It
will
stay good a long time. With the lathe running about 1000 rpm or so
just apply it with a rag.

Larry this sounded good until I tried it!! It doesn't dry hard.
I used it to finish some new handles for my home made turning tools
and now after a week they are continue to show finger prints after
using them. BRBR
Peter Hyde

Peter,
Are you sure you were using BOILED linseed oil? Regular linseed oil won't work.
I've used this formula before with no problems. Bonnie Klein uses it a lot
also.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

Are you sure you were using BOILED linseed oil? Regular linseed oil won't work.
I've used this formula before with no problems. Bonnie Klein uses it a lot
also.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

Yes definitely and I was super critical with the amounts of each
ingredient. I think there is probably a brain dead user here and I'm
doing something wrong like adding too many coats without allowing
adequate drying times in between.
However with most shellac based finishes adding oil means a need to
wipe of the excess oil that comes through the finish as it dries. So I
did a light buffing with some alcohol and now the handles are
definitely not as sticky.
What exactly are your proccedures when using this finish? Such as what
RPM, drying time between coats, sanding between coats, buffing?
Thanks

Jim Gott wrote:
Are you sure you were using BOILED linseed oil? Regular linseed oil won't work.
I've used this formula before with no problems. Bonnie Klein uses it a lot
also.

I often use a bit of mineral oil instead of BLO - it does a good job of
lubricating. I don't mix in very much though - often I'll just dampen the rag
w/it then wipe on shellac. I mix my own shellac, usually about a 1 lb. cut, so
I don't need to further dulite it w/shellac thinner or alcohol.

I have used BLO before, but either works equally well in my book...

....Kevin
--
Kevin & Theresa Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb

What exactly are your proccedures when using this finish? Such as what
RPM, drying time between coats, sanding between coats, buffing?
Thanks
BRBR

It's usually used as a friction finish, applying to a very fast spinning piece
with a cotton rag (don't wrap the rag around your fingers) and burnishing in
with the rag. It dries within a few seconds. The reason for the BLO is so it
doesn't dry TOO fast so you can avoid the lap lines. Try using less BLO and see
how you do. You can even try leaving it out, but the alcohol might make it dry
too fast.

Actually, for tool handles I'd use polyurethane or danish oil, and for most of
my turnings I use Deft lacquer cut about 40% with lacquer thinner, then buff.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA