This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.

wrote: (clip) I am able to round the 4"/4" with
a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
It's almost impossible to teach the use of the skew by writing about it.
The best thing would be a teacher. Or buy a video that demonstrates the
techniques. I did both, and still had some trouble, and the advice I got
from our club chairman was: "Start doing EVERYTHING with the skew." I know
it sounds nuts, but you can even do the roughing on your legs with a skew.
You get LOTS of experience, and your mistakes don't cost you anything,
because most of them will be on the waste wood that's going to be removed
anyway. The brain works in mysterious ways. The more you do something, the
better you get at it, even if you don't understand why. You need to strive
for a level where you think about the form you are creating, and your hands
make the right moves without demanding most of your attention. It's a lot
like driving a car.

In message ,
writes
This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.

For me I only recently "Got It" after a few hundred pen blanks to
practice on. I too find I am good at right to left, but left to right is
a nightmare. One thing I have found is the type of Skew makes a lot of
difference to the learning process.

I have seen three basic types of tool listed a Skew
1, Thin oval cross-section
2, Rectangular section with rounded edges
3, Plain Rectangular

Additionally the slope of the cutting edge makes a difference

1, Long face
2, Short face

With the short face I found it harder to present the tool to the work at
the correct angle, with the longer face, it was considerably easier

I also found the thin oval section to be easiest as you just rock the
tool on its body to provide a slight tilt, which is easy to control,
unlike the rounded and square edge.

I also found that the best cutting point was 1/3 of the way from the
lowest point of the cutting edge, this tended to keep the furthest point
above the work, reducing the risk of a catches it should be tilted away
from the work.

Not sure if that makes sense, but its what I have noticed during my
hours of practice.
--
John

On Mon, 02 Mar 2009 12:58:19 -0600, wrote:

This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.

Try an oval skew...
Because it's natural to rotate it, you can have the cutting edge at a sheer
angle and the tip down.. You have to really try to get a catch in this
position..

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LX030.html

I also like the arched type slew, with tucked in points..
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LX040AS.html



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Leo Lichtman wrote:
wrote: (clip) I am able to round the 4"/4" with
a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
It's almost impossible to teach the use of the skew by writing about it.
The best thing would be a teacher. Or buy a video that demonstrates the
techniques. I did both, and still had some trouble, and the advice I got
from our club chairman was: "Start doing EVERYTHING with the skew." I know
it sounds nuts, but you can even do the roughing on your legs with a skew.
You get LOTS of experience, and your mistakes don't cost you anything,
because most of them will be on the waste wood that's going to be removed
anyway. The brain works in mysterious ways. The more you do something, the
better you get at it, even if you don't understand why. You need to strive
for a level where you think about the form you are creating, and your hands
make the right moves without demanding most of your attention. It's a lot
like driving a car.



Mike Darlow has a DVD literally called "Taming of the Skew" see:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ter=skew%20dvd

Alan Lacer in his DVD advocates using a stub center versus a spur center
so that when you catch, the spindle stops spinning versus gouging the
turning.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ter=skew%20dvd

Finally, for someone who does *everything* with a skew, see Richard Raffan:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...=turning%20dvd

~Mark.

wrote in message
news
This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.

others have given good advise - here are some more thoughts

1. you are cutting, not scraping -
2. put the lathe on a very slow speed and practice - don't worry about
finish. Try and make it catch - see what you did
3. a catch happens when you are cutting in the wrong quadrant of the work,
or with the wrong part of the tool - stay away from the trailing edge, stay
at or above center
4. a gouge is just a skew with a bend in it - you can rub the bevel just
like a with a gouge
5. if you can do shear cutting with a gouge, you can handle a skew

schreef:
This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.
Keep the skew as high up as possible.
Some free video's on skew turning he
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...y=skew+turning

In article ,
"Leo Lichtman" wrote:

wrote: (clip) I am able to round the 4"/4" with
a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
It's almost impossible to teach the use of the skew by writing about it.
The best thing would be a teacher. Or buy a video that demonstrates the
techniques. I did both, and still had some trouble, and the advice I got
from our club chairman was: "Start doing EVERYTHING with the skew." I know
it sounds nuts, but you can even do the roughing on your legs with a skew.
You get LOTS of experience, and your mistakes don't cost you anything,
because most of them will be on the waste wood that's going to be removed
anyway. The brain works in mysterious ways. The more you do something, the
better you get at it, even if you don't understand why. You need to strive
for a level where you think about the form you are creating, and your hands
make the right moves without demanding most of your attention. It's a lot
like driving a car.

What he said, I tried practice and videos, a lesson did the trick. I
just (this weekend) used almost nothing but the skews for some work
(including roughing). I don't "have the skew", but it's closer

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

I'm going with Leo on this. I have turned for years, have my own
favorite grinds, tools, etc., that I have developed to suit myself. I
was sure I could use the skew.

Nope.

Yeah, I could do some planing cuts and a little beading. But I was so
timid about it I had other tools that would do the same job faster.

Years ago, we had an open house at our club. "Bring the tool you own
that gives you problems" was the theme. So many had given up on the
skew that I was the only one that showed up with mine!! I was
teaching sharpening, so I had a lot of time scheduled, so I didn't
really have much for myself.

But we have a skewmaster in our group. When I got with him, he had me
cutting well with the damn thing in about 15 minutes. For some
reason, I just couldn't understand the geometry of the approach. With
him standing there, I was good, and cut nice lines, cut coves, beads,
etc. without a lot of fuss.

TIP: To make sure I didn't hurt either of us, he loosened the belt on
the lathe, that way it would slip if I got a catch.

I was pretty happy, but didn't go home and practice with it as I
didn't see it as my "go to" group of tools. My skills with it
deteriorated, and now I am back where I was.

The moral of the story: Find someone that is comfortable with the
skew, have them help you get your skills up, and PRACTICE to build
that memory of stance, approach, and angle of cut.

Robert

I use a skew, mainly a half inch, a LOT, for just about everything
- some uses I probably shouldn't do.

When I first started turning, the straight edged skew was my
worst nightmare. If I got it anywhere near moving wood all hell
would break loose. Didn't matter if the rpms were low or high,
get it near spinning wood and it'd go psycho on me.

Then in a conversation I struck up with a guy at a woodworking
show - who happened to be a wood turner - I mentioned the
grief the skew was causing me. He offered to have me over
to his house and he'd show me some tips and tricks.

The first thing he did was take my skew over to a sanding
disk mounted on a face plate on his lathe. In 30 seconds
he'd reground the edge to put a slight curve in it. A couple
of changes of grit and he hands me back a VERY sharp
curved edge skew.

This helped with two of my problems with the skew. A
sharp tool is much better behaved than a not as sharp,
or dull skew.

By putting a curve in the cutting edge, that scary long point was
pulled back - still there to use if needed - but back out of the way
of the middle 2/3rds of the cutting edge - the sweet spot for p
laning/peeling cuts. And the heel corner was pulled back a bit as
well. That wasn't so significant since I seldom intentionaly use
it.

But the big AHA! was when he mounted a chunk of wood
on his lathe and started a skew cut - with the long tip down
and first to contact - and begin cutting - the wood.

The idea of starting a cut by poking that long point into
spinning wood seemed crazy as hell. But when you think
about it, you've got almost a single point of contact so
that sharp point isn't cutting much wood at all. And THAT
has been the trick for taming the skew - for me.

Once the long point starts the cut it's not hard to get, and
keep, the bevel rubbing the wood as the rest of the cut is
made. Have a look at the illustration and animation at the
bottom of this page

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...urning14C.html

Then have a look at the illustrations on this page

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...Turning15.html

Pay particular attention to the third illustration - the "top"
view of a rolling cut. It's the last two parts of the cut that
can cause problems as your tip approaches the adjacent
vertical face. If the long point, which is down and out of
sight, happens to contact the adjacent vertical face - bingo
- you've lost control of the cut and a catch or spiral cut will
happen. You want to keep the cut going downhill - on YOUR
side of the valley or cliff. If you don't, the edge will want
to climb up the other side - or up the cliff - up into the
end grain rather than down acrossed it. the steeper the
sides of the "valley" the easier it is to accidently start
climbing UP rather than cutting DOWN.

Cut with the long point - THAT is the secret - for me.
You're mileage may vary. Void where prohibited by law

Plenty of good advice already, to which I add, practice skewing with
confidence. Don't believe the doomsayers and don't be up tight. Pay
attention to your catches, but lighten up or you'll miss the fun and
advantages of using a skew.

The skew is not a shrew. It's a great turning tool and it doesn't need
"taming" (IMHO, a cute, but a wrong and counterproductive phrase). I
don't advise waving the skew or any turning tool, but a mild 'devil may
care' attitude is probably a better way to learn how to skew than white
knuckles and knee-kick fear.

There is an epiphany to enjoying a skew. A time for all of us when it
will suddenly come to you like learning to savor scotch whisky neat or
riding a bicycle, 'no hands'. It's all about ignoring the skew's bad
reputation and believing in your abilities.


Everybody gets catches when using a skew, but it's the same with a gouge
except for liars. For me it's usually when I'm showing someone how easy
skewing actually is. So why can't I tame my bowl gouge and keep it from
making funnels?



Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 10:38:29 -0800, charlieb
wrote:

I use a skew, mainly a half inch, a LOT, for just about everything
- some uses I probably shouldn't do.

When I first started turning, the straight edged skew was my
worst nightmare. If I got it anywhere near moving wood all hell
would break loose. Didn't matter if the rpms were low or high,
get it near spinning wood and it'd go psycho on me.

Then in a conversation I struck up with a guy at a woodworking
show - who happened to be a wood turner - I mentioned the
grief the skew was causing me. He offered to have me over
to his house and he'd show me some tips and tricks.

The first thing he did was take my skew over to a sanding
disk mounted on a face plate on his lathe. In 30 seconds
he'd reground the edge to put a slight curve in it. A couple
of changes of grit and he hands me back a VERY sharp
curved edge skew.

This helped with two of my problems with the skew. A
sharp tool is much better behaved than a not as sharp,
or dull skew.

By putting a curve in the cutting edge, that scary long point was
pulled back - still there to use if needed - but back out of the way
of the middle 2/3rds of the cutting edge - the sweet spot for p
laning/peeling cuts. And the heel corner was pulled back a bit as
well. That wasn't so significant since I seldom intentionaly use
it.

But the big AHA! was when he mounted a chunk of wood
on his lathe and started a skew cut - with the long tip down
and first to contact - and begin cutting - the wood.

The idea of starting a cut by poking that long point into
spinning wood seemed crazy as hell. But when you think
about it, you've got almost a single point of contact so
that sharp point isn't cutting much wood at all. And THAT
has been the trick for taming the skew - for me.

Once the long point starts the cut it's not hard to get, and
keep, the bevel rubbing the wood as the rest of the cut is
made. Have a look at the illustration and animation at the
bottom of this page

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...urning14C.html

Then have a look at the illustrations on this page

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...Turning15.html

Pay particular attention to the third illustration - the "top"
view of a rolling cut. It's the last two parts of the cut that
can cause problems as your tip approaches the adjacent
vertical face. If the long point, which is down and out of
sight, happens to contact the adjacent vertical face - bingo
- you've lost control of the cut and a catch or spiral cut will
happen. You want to keep the cut going downhill - on YOUR
side of the valley or cliff. If you don't, the edge will want
to climb up the other side - or up the cliff - up into the
end grain rather than down acrossed it. the steeper the
sides of the "valley" the easier it is to accidently start
climbing UP rather than cutting DOWN.

Cut with the long point - THAT is the secret - for me.
You're mileage may vary. Void where prohibited by law


Thanks Charlie for the information. I think I will go to the grinder
and change the shape of the skew this evening. I have got to
learn the skew. I have pretty good luck with smaller spindles
but I have been flying by the seat of my pants with my turning.

Your work is very nice, I looked through your web sites. Also
the illustrations are great.

Again thanks for your input, hope to see you around.

Everett

On Tue, 3 Mar 2009 10:03:29 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

I'm going with Leo on this. I have turned for years, have my own
favorite grinds, tools, etc., that I have developed to suit myself. I
was sure I could use the skew.

Nope.

Yeah, I could do some planing cuts and a little beading. But I was so
timid about it I had other tools that would do the same job faster.

Years ago, we had an open house at our club. "Bring the tool you own
that gives you problems" was the theme. So many had given up on the
skew that I was the only one that showed up with mine!! I was
teaching sharpening, so I had a lot of time scheduled, so I didn't
really have much for myself.

But we have a skewmaster in our group. When I got with him, he had me
cutting well with the damn thing in about 15 minutes. For some
reason, I just couldn't understand the geometry of the approach. With
him standing there, I was good, and cut nice lines, cut coves, beads,
etc. without a lot of fuss.

TIP: To make sure I didn't hurt either of us, he loosened the belt on
the lathe, that way it would slip if I got a catch.

I was pretty happy, but didn't go home and practice with it as I
didn't see it as my "go to" group of tools. My skills with it
deteriorated, and now I am back where I was.

The moral of the story: Find someone that is comfortable with the
skew, have them help you get your skills up, and PRACTICE to build
that memory of stance, approach, and angle of cut.

Robert


Many Thanks to all that replied to my plea for help. All the
information is appreciated. I will try and apply all of it as I
practice on the lathe on much smaller wood stock. One thing that I
wish could be answered is, would using a larger than 1" skew reduce
my chance of a catch? Looks like it might keep the toe and heel
further away from the cutting area. I am working on 4" popular
stock "trying to turn" the legs for an Island.

Thanks again

Everett

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 07:57:14 +0100, Gerard
wrote:

schreef:
This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.
Keep the skew as high up as possible.
Some free video's on skew turning he
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...y=skew+turning

Thanks to all for the information and the various resources that was
suggested. I still wonder if my skew is a bit small for turning 4" X
4" stock. I can work 2x2 stock without much trouble. I have noticed in
some videos that they are using a larger skew. should I be able to use
my 1" for turning this large of stock?? Ilike the suggestion of using
a drive taper with the spurs removed. If I can find an a spare I will
grind the spurs off and give it a try.

Many thanks

Everett

In article ,
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 07:57:14 +0100, Gerard
wrote:

schreef:
This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.
Keep the skew as high up as possible.
Some free video's on skew turning he
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...y=skew+turning

Thanks to all for the information and the various resources that was
suggested. I still wonder if my skew is a bit small for turning 4" X
4" stock. I can work 2x2 stock without much trouble. I have noticed in
some videos that they are using a larger skew. should I be able to use
my 1" for turning this large of stock?? Ilike the suggestion of using
a drive taper with the spurs removed. If I can find an a spare I will
grind the spurs off and give it a try.

Many thanks

Everett

Larger skews are easier to use. I converted both of my 1/2 skews to
scrapers

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Mar 2, 10:58*am, wrote:
This is a topic, that I found many hits on Google about. However
I was unable to find the answer that I am looking for. I am a
regular reader of rec.crafts.woodturning and enjoy it. My dilemma is
this! The skew is a monster that I can not tame. I am ( trying ) to
turn legs for a island table using 4" very dry popular. The top
of the leg is square and about a 4" section near the bottom is square.
The design is pretty standard. I am able to round the 4"/4" with a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. Turning from right to left I get a few catches that are some
times destructive. Using the skew from left to right if I get a bad
catch it somehow tends to crush my left index finger. I am thinking
that I would have less problems with a larger skew?? Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everett Cotton

P.S. I would like to keep my fingers.


There has been a lot of good advise given on this thread. Many years
ago, when I was trying to learn to use the skew, I stumbled onto a
product that made a real difference. The product was called the
Stabilax for stabilizing the skew chisel. I purchased one at the Joint
AAW/Utah Woodturning Symposium in about 1991 or 1992, I don't remember
the exact year anymore. The Stabilax slips onto the skew chisel and is
held in place with a set screw. It provides a round surface to ride on
the tool rest and some additional weight. After I used the skew with
this device for awhile, I discovered that I could also use it without
the Stabilax. I don't know if they are still making the device or not,
but here is the address in my files:

Beech Street Tool Works
Dick Lukes, 440 Beech Street, Los Angeles, CA 90065. TEL: 213-223-0411
This company makes the Stabilax for stabilizing the skew chisel and
making scrapers into shear scrapers. Also make precision parting tools

If Dick Lukes is still making this device, I highly recommend it for
people having trouble with the skew.

Fred Holder
http://www.morewoodturning.net

In message
,
writes
On Mar 2, 10:58*am, wrote:


There has been a lot of good advise given on this thread. Many years
ago, when I was trying to learn to use the skew, I stumbled onto a
product that made a real difference. The product was called the
Stabilax for stabilizing the skew chisel. I purchased one at the Joint
AAW/Utah Woodturning Symposium in about 1991 or 1992, I don't remember
the exact year anymore. The Stabilax slips onto the skew chisel and is
held in place with a set screw. It provides a round surface to ride on
the tool rest and some additional weight. After I used the skew with
this device for awhile, I discovered that I could also use it without
the Stabilax. I don't know if they are still making the device or not,
but here is the address in my files:

Beech Street Tool Works
Dick Lukes, 440 Beech Street, Los Angeles, CA 90065. TEL: 213-223-0411
This company makes the Stabilax for stabilizing the skew chisel and
making scrapers into shear scrapers. Also make precision parting tools

If Dick Lukes is still making this device, I highly recommend it for
people having trouble with the skew.

Here is a link to a source, if its no longer available from Fred's
contact details, with image

http://pro.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...-332&search=Ha
nd%20Tools%20-%20Not%20Listed%20Elsewhere&smode=


Looks a very simple design, but I can see it could be very effective for
a beginner
--
John

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 15:50:32 -0600, wrote:
Many Thanks to all that replied to my plea for help. All the
information is appreciated. I will try and apply all of it as I
practice on the lathe on much smaller wood stock. One thing that I
wish could be answered is, would using a larger than 1" skew reduce
my chance of a catch? Looks like it might keep the toe and heel
further away from the cutting area. I am working on 4" popular
stock "trying to turn" the legs for an Island.

Thanks again

Everett

My personal favorite is a 3/4" oval skew, but I use the 1" "normal" skew a lot,
also..
For my use/ability, smaller skews are for small work or tight spots..
Why try to use a 1/4" skew on a 3' long cut, for example..

If you DO stay with a normal, flat skew, save yourself a lot of grief and file
or grind the edges of the shaft, where it rides on the tool rest, round..
Even if you don't want to roll the point down to avoid catches, the worst time
to find a little nick on your tool rest is when your skew hangs up on it during
a cut.. DAMHIKT

If all else fails, get good with scrapers.. ;-]
I turned a set of stool legs for a friend and used mostly scrapers for the
rounding and shaping..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I'm not sure how to put a curve on the skew with a grinding wheel.
Even a low speed grinder - the width of the wheel is too narrow - for
me. I use the side of the VERY slow speed Tormek - or the top of
the glass wheel on the WorkSharp. DO NOT use the sides of regular
or even "low" speed grinders.

Make contact with the bevel - then roll a little to either side -
removing more metal on the ends than in the middle 2/3rds.
If I get some "faceting" I can fix that with a diamond paddle
- or ignore them and use the skew as is.

And choke up on the skew with your left hand - with my
thumb over the top - out past the tool rest. Once the
cut is started - with the long point - the left hand applies
pressure to keep the bevel on the wood, the right hand doing the
rolling and raising (lowering the tip into the reducing diameter).

I find the skew easier to control than a spindle gouge since
you only have to keep track of ONE cutting edge, not the
edge on the other side of where you're making the cut.

There's a video on YouTube that shows cuts made with a bedan,
cutting with the corners of the bedan that shows the basics
of the cut - woth a bedan or skew. Search for "Bedan Practice"

On Wed, 04 Mar 2009 13:39:11 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 15:50:32 -0600, wrote:
Many Thanks to all that replied to my plea for help. All the
information is appreciated. I will try and apply all of it as I
practice on the lathe on much smaller wood stock. One thing that I
wish could be answered is, would using a larger than 1" skew reduce
my chance of a catch? Looks like it might keep the toe and heel
further away from the cutting area. I am working on 4" popular
stock "trying to turn" the legs for an Island.

Thanks again

Everett

My personal favorite is a 3/4" oval skew, but I use the 1" "normal" skew a lot,
also..
For my use/ability, smaller skews are for small work or tight spots..
Why try to use a 1/4" skew on a 3' long cut, for example..

If you DO stay with a normal, flat skew, save yourself a lot of grief and file
or grind the edges of the shaft, where it rides on the tool rest, round..
Even if you don't want to roll the point down to avoid catches, the worst time
to find a little nick on your tool rest is when your skew hangs up on it during
a cut.. DAMHIKT

If all else fails, get good with scrapers.. ;-]
I turned a set of stool legs for a friend and used mostly scrapers for the
rounding and shaping..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


I just finished rounding the toe and the heel and it is much better. I
can see what was causing it to catch. The 3 1/2" diameter that I was
attempting to turn, presents itself to the 1" skew as a flater
surface than say a 1" dia stock. By rounding the edges I have removed
the sharp points and also moved the threat further away from the
stock. There was some other suggestions that I will also try.

Another suggestion was to use an adapter that mounts on the shaft of
the skew. In effect it lets the skew have a round shaft that rest on
the tool rest. I think this would be considered as a training wheel
for the skew:-). I may give it a try. But first I think I will
purchase a larger skew.

Many Thanks

Everett

"John" wrote in message
...
In message
,
writes
On Mar 2, 10:58 am, wrote:

Here is a link to a source, if its no longer available from Fred's contact
details, with image

http://pro.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...-332&search=Ha
nd%20Tools%20-%20Not%20Listed%20Elsewhere&smode=


Looks a very simple design, but I can see it could be very effective for a
beginner
--
John

I forwarded the original posting to Dick Lukes -- he'll respond if he is
interested.

On Wed, 04 Mar 2009 19:45:35 -0600, wrote:


I just finished rounding the toe and the heel and it is much better. I
can see what was causing it to catch. The 3 1/2" diameter that I was
attempting to turn, presents itself to the 1" skew as a flater
surface than say a 1" dia stock. By rounding the edges I have removed
the sharp points and also moved the threat further away from the
stock. There was some other suggestions that I will also try.

Another suggestion was to use an adapter that mounts on the shaft of
the skew. In effect it lets the skew have a round shaft that rest on
the tool rest. I think this would be considered as a training wheel
for the skew:-). I may give it a try. But first I think I will
purchase a larger skew.

Many Thanks

Everett

Everett... Before you try training wheels, I'd suggest that you spend $20 or so
for an oval skew and "skew" around with it..
You might find out that you LIKE the skew.. lol

I hope you've already done this, but if not, play with some scrap lumber on the
lathe before you attempt making those legs..
More fun and you don't chance skewing up expensive wood.. YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In article ,
"Leo Lichtman" wrote:

wrote: (clip) I am able to round the 4"/4" with
a 1"
gouge with only a few catches. Then comes the detail part with the
skew. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
It's almost impossible to teach the use of the skew by writing about it.
The best thing would be a teacher. Or buy a video that demonstrates the
techniques. I did both, and still had some trouble, and the advice I got
from our club chairman was: "Start doing EVERYTHING with the skew." I know
it sounds nuts, but you can even do the roughing on your legs with a skew.
You get LOTS of experience, and your mistakes don't cost you anything,
because most of them will be on the waste wood that's going to be removed
anyway. The brain works in mysterious ways. The more you do something, the
better you get at it, even if you don't understand why. You need to strive
for a level where you think about the form you are creating, and your hands
make the right moves without demanding most of your attention. It's a lot
like driving a car.

What he said, I tried practice and videos, a lesson did the trick. I
just (this weekend) used almost nothing but the skews for some work
(including roughing). I don't "have the skew", but it's closer


Just to re-open (or close) this topic. I was watching Richard Raffan's
"Turning Projects" video this weekend - the one where he does virtually
*everything* with skews. This prompted me to "resume training" with the
skew (after I finished a couple hollow forms).

Anyway, after watching him repeatedly, I *still* wasn't having much luck
- lots of catches, inaccurate V grooves, etc. I stood watching the wood,
trying to figure out why I was having so many problems emulating Raffan.

Then I tried (as a previous poster suggested) *always* using the long
point down. For me, this did the trick! I spent another hour planing to
cylinder and cutting beads and even a couple of captive rings with the
skew.

Raffan is so expert with the skew, it doesn't seem to matter to him
whether it's long point up or down. I went back and re-watched parts of
the video to make sure of this. For me, keeping the long point down and
always using left hand on tool rest, right hand on skew handle does the
trick. It got to the point where my death grip on the handle was reduced
to a light touch and I was brave enough to try captive rings with which
I was successful!

~Mark.

I think I have that same Raffan video. I also have Alan Lacer's skew
chisel video. Both videos are good. But I find it interesting that
these two experts do not agree about some basic things. At one point
in his video Raffan says to keep the point down going one way and
point it up going the other way, unless you are left handed, then do
the opposite. Lacer does not teach it that way. If my memory serves
me correctly, he keeps the point the same going both directions (I
don't remember which way the long point goes in his video off the top
of my head). My point is that the experts don't always agree. Get
all you can from what they say and use what you can. But some of what
you do as a woodturner has to be what works best for you. That takes
lots of time, effort and experience.

Ted J.
thelatentlog.com

point down is misleading- it's a way of getting the angle of the blade so
that it will cause a downward force against the tool rest - point up and you
get an upward force which lifts the skew up and then you get surprises

think about the force vectors from high school physics


"Ted" wrote in message
...
I think I have that same Raffan video. I also have Alan Lacer's skew
chisel video. Both videos are good. But I find it interesting that
these two experts do not agree about some basic things. At one point
in his video Raffan says to keep the point down going one way and
point it up going the other way, unless you are left handed, then do
the opposite. Lacer does not teach it that way. If my memory serves
me correctly, he keeps the point the same going both directions (I
don't remember which way the long point goes in his video off the top
of my head). My point is that the experts don't always agree. Get
all you can from what they say and use what you can. But some of what
you do as a woodturner has to be what works best for you. That takes
lots of time, effort and experience.

Ted J.
thelatentlog.com

"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...
point down is misleading- it's a way of getting the angle of the blade so
that it will cause a downward force against the tool rest - point up and
you get an upward force which lifts the skew up and then you get surprises

That would be true if you were to turn from the front of the lathe point
down and the back of the lathe for point up (or reverse the spindle).