On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 10:38:29 -0800, charlieb
wrote:

I use a skew, mainly a half inch, a LOT, for just about everything
- some uses I probably shouldn't do.

When I first started turning, the straight edged skew was my
worst nightmare. If I got it anywhere near moving wood all hell
would break loose. Didn't matter if the rpms were low or high,
get it near spinning wood and it'd go psycho on me.

Then in a conversation I struck up with a guy at a woodworking
show - who happened to be a wood turner - I mentioned the
grief the skew was causing me. He offered to have me over
to his house and he'd show me some tips and tricks.

The first thing he did was take my skew over to a sanding
disk mounted on a face plate on his lathe. In 30 seconds
he'd reground the edge to put a slight curve in it. A couple
of changes of grit and he hands me back a VERY sharp
curved edge skew.

This helped with two of my problems with the skew. A
sharp tool is much better behaved than a not as sharp,
or dull skew.

By putting a curve in the cutting edge, that scary long point was
pulled back - still there to use if needed - but back out of the way
of the middle 2/3rds of the cutting edge - the sweet spot for p
laning/peeling cuts. And the heel corner was pulled back a bit as
well. That wasn't so significant since I seldom intentionaly use
it.

But the big AHA! was when he mounted a chunk of wood
on his lathe and started a skew cut - with the long tip down
and first to contact - and begin cutting - the wood.

The idea of starting a cut by poking that long point into
spinning wood seemed crazy as hell. But when you think
about it, you've got almost a single point of contact so
that sharp point isn't cutting much wood at all. And THAT
has been the trick for taming the skew - for me.

Once the long point starts the cut it's not hard to get, and
keep, the bevel rubbing the wood as the rest of the cut is
made. Have a look at the illustration and animation at the
bottom of this page

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...urning14C.html

Then have a look at the illustrations on this page

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...Turning15.html

Pay particular attention to the third illustration - the "top"
view of a rolling cut. It's the last two parts of the cut that
can cause problems as your tip approaches the adjacent
vertical face. If the long point, which is down and out of
sight, happens to contact the adjacent vertical face - bingo
- you've lost control of the cut and a catch or spiral cut will
happen. You want to keep the cut going downhill - on YOUR
side of the valley or cliff. If you don't, the edge will want
to climb up the other side - or up the cliff - up into the
end grain rather than down acrossed it. the steeper the
sides of the "valley" the easier it is to accidently start
climbing UP rather than cutting DOWN.

Cut with the long point - THAT is the secret - for me.
You're mileage may vary. Void where prohibited by law


Thanks Charlie for the information. I think I will go to the grinder
and change the shape of the skew this evening. I have got to
learn the skew. I have pretty good luck with smaller spindles
but I have been flying by the seat of my pants with my turning.

Your work is very nice, I looked through your web sites. Also
the illustrations are great.

Again thanks for your input, hope to see you around.

Everett