I have a 10" Delta table saw that has a motor about to die.

Recently built a slide table for it that is very precise and smooth.

It will crosscut to 25".

In the meantime, I bought a 10" Craftsman Radial Arm Saw for $40 with
a great motor.

The RAS in its normal pull is very squiggly.

However, when locked down to a fixed position, it is quite stable.

The light bulb went on in my head and this is what I did:

I mounted the Delta metal table with its extension and mounted it onto
a nice hunk of 3/4" plywood to fit the RAS table and a bit more.

I can quickly pivot the entire Delta table to align it with the RAS
blade.

I positioned the RAS at its maximum rip position distance and feed it
at the blade lifting end.

Using an angle grinder, I cut a small groove into the table saw top to
allow the RAS blade to about 1/4" below the surface .

I can now rip about 25" using the table saw top and it original fence.

I can crosscut using the easy on/easy off slide table.

I now have an upside down sideways ripping crosscutting Radial Arm
Table Saw!

It is really neat! I never use it as a RAS.

It can angle both ways, easily adjust the blade height, etc.

Radial arm saws maybe squirrelly as designed, but in a fixed position,
they can be very stable.

I still have a slight play in the head when I shake it, but it still
cuts very accurately.

Anyone know the tricks in tightening it up?

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:20:04 -0800, "JOE MOHNIKE"
wrote:

Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull.

That is not correct for a RAS. Always pull the carriage from its
position behind the fence. Yes, it's a climb cut. Yes, that's how it
was designed. No, it's not difficult to manage.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:20:04 -0800, "JOE MOHNIKE"
wrote:

Get the owners manuel.

Actually reading the owner's manuAl will confirm what I wrote in my
other response about pulling, no pushing.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

Get the owners manuel.
However look at the guides in the arm, there should be 4 bearings with some
kind of adjustment screw, usualy an allen head screw.
Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull. Climbing cuts will bind,
jump and just mess things up.
Good lucl
Joe

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
I have a 10" Delta table saw that has a motor about to die.

Recently built a slide table for it that is very precise and smooth.

It will crosscut to 25".

In the meantime, I bought a 10" Craftsman Radial Arm Saw for $40 with
a great motor.

The RAS in its normal pull is very squiggly.

However, when locked down to a fixed position, it is quite stable.

The light bulb went on in my head and this is what I did:

I mounted the Delta metal table with its extension and mounted it onto
a nice hunk of 3/4" plywood to fit the RAS table and a bit more.

I can quickly pivot the entire Delta table to align it with the RAS
blade.

I positioned the RAS at its maximum rip position distance and feed it
at the blade lifting end.

Using an angle grinder, I cut a small groove into the table saw top to
allow the RAS blade to about 1/4" below the surface .

I can now rip about 25" using the table saw top and it original fence.

I can crosscut using the easy on/easy off slide table.

I now have an upside down sideways ripping crosscutting Radial Arm
Table Saw!

It is really neat! I never use it as a RAS.

It can angle both ways, easily adjust the blade height, etc.

Radial arm saws maybe squirrelly as designed, but in a fixed position,
they can be very stable.

I still have a slight play in the head when I shake it, but it still
cuts very accurately.

Anyone know the tricks in tightening it up?

On Mar 31, 1:54 pm, LRod wrote:
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:20:04 -0800, "JOE MOHNIKE"
wrote:

Get the owners manuel.

Actually reading the owner's manuAl will confirm what I wrote in my
other response about pulling, no pushing.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.nethttp://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

I don't pull or push my RAS. I FIXED it in the locked rip position.

I push material towards the rotating blade like a regular table saw or
a table saw with a sled.

Do you understand my setup?


BTW FedEx just delivered the recall package fro Emerson

..

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 11:33:07 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

On Mar 31, 1:54 pm, LRod wrote:
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:20:04 -0800, "JOE MOHNIKE"
wrote:

Get the owners manuel.

Actually reading the owner's manuAl will confirm what I wrote in my
other response about pulling, no pushing.

I don't pull or push my RAS. I FIXED it in the locked rip position.

I push material towards the rotating blade like a regular table saw or
a table saw with a sled.

Do you understand my setup?

I do. JOE MOHNIKE doesn't.

BTW FedEx just delivered the recall package fro Emerson

Sadly, mine isn't included in the recall.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

On Mar 31, 10:23*am, BoyntonStu wrote:
I have a 10" Delta table saw that has a motor about to die.

Recently built a slide table for it that is very precise and smooth.

It will crosscut to 25".

In the meantime, I bought a 10" Craftsman Radial Arm Saw for $40 with
a great motor.

The RAS in its normal pull is very squiggly.

However, when locked down to a fixed position, it is quite stable.

The light bulb went on in my head and this is what I did:

I mounted the Delta metal table with its extension and mounted it onto
a nice hunk of 3/4" plywood to fit the RAS table and a bit more.

I can quickly pivot the entire Delta table to align it with the RAS
blade.

I positioned the RAS *at its maximum rip position distance and feed it
at the blade lifting end.

Using an angle grinder, I cut a small groove into the table saw top to
allow the RAS blade to about 1/4" below the surface .

I can now rip about 25" using the table saw top and it original fence.

I can crosscut using the easy on/easy off slide table.

I now have an upside down sideways ripping crosscutting Radial Arm
Table Saw!

It is really neat! *I never use it as a RAS.

It can angle both ways, easily adjust the blade height, etc.

Radial arm saws maybe squirrelly as designed, but in a fixed position,
they can be very stable.

I still have a slight play in the head when I shake it, but it still
cuts very accurately.

Anyone know the tricks in tightening it up?

What model saw is it? I'm pretty familiar with the older ones. In any
case, I would think just about any Craftsman RAS should be capable of
working pretty smoothly through the crosscut motion. It's unlikely
that your saw would have been used heavily enough to wear out the
bearings, so I'd guess that it's an adjustment or set-up issue. Sears
is good about carrying manuals and parts for older machines. Check out
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...t/index.action

You'll need the model number which starts with 3 digits, a decimal
point, then lots more digits (can't remember exactly how many)
xxx.xxxxxxxx or something.

I encourage you to get it working properly to your satisfaction. Since
you have already committed the shop space, it's extremely useful to
have a dedicated crosscut machine, especially for cutting long stock
precisely. My RAS, like many others, is carefully tuned to 90 degrees
and is never moved.

Good luck,
Tom

Oh yeah...

If your carriage is that loose, the blade may be out of alignment when
you lock it down. It would probably have already shown up but it's
worth looking at. Check the vertical angle as well.

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 17:53:23 +0000, LRod wrote:

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:20:04 -0800, "JOE MOHNIKE"
wrote:

Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull.

That is not correct for a RAS. Always pull the carriage from its
position behind the fence. Yes, it's a climb cut. Yes, that's how it
was designed. No, it's not difficult to manage.

That was a really hard concept for me at first.. Totally backwards from a table
saw...
You sure appreciate it, though, when something binds and the work is forced
against the fence and not shot out the front..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull.

That is not correct for a RAS. Always pull the carriage from its
position behind the fence. Yes, it's a climb cut. Yes, that's how it
was designed. No, it's not difficult to manage.

That was a really hard concept for me at first.. Totally backwards from a
table saw...


Wasn't tough for me... my first big tool *was* a radial arm saw. I honestly
don't see what the big deal is about pulling the blade towards me. It's not
like it's going to suddenly jump the track and shoot out past the table and into
me. I have one hand to the left side of the blade holding the work piece down
and my right hand has the handle of the RAS. If it binds, so what? It's not
going to break my arm.


You sure appreciate it, though, when something binds and the work is forced
against the fence and not shot out the front..


There is that, too. I have a respect for every tool I own but the RAS is no
worse than any other as far as safety goes.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote in message
...
mac davis wrote:
Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull.

That is not correct for a RAS. Always pull the carriage from its
position behind the fence. Yes, it's a climb cut. Yes, that's how it
was designed. No, it's not difficult to manage.

That was a really hard concept for me at first.. Totally backwards from a
table saw...


Wasn't tough for me... my first big tool *was* a radial arm saw. I
honestly don't see what the big deal is about pulling the blade towards
me. It's not like it's going to suddenly jump the track and shoot out
past the table and into me. I have one hand to the left side of the blade
holding the work piece down and my right hand has the handle of the RAS.
If it binds, so what? It's not going to break my arm.


You sure appreciate it, though, when something binds and the work is
forced
against the fence and not shot out the front..


There is that, too. I have a respect for every tool I own but the RAS is
no worse than any other as far as safety goes.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com


In my younger day I probably built 100,000 of those Century21, ERA, Red
Carpet type real estate posts. I always pushed. I had to cut 3.5 inch dados
and they had to be done fast. 7 years of that and the worst I ever did was
split my right thumb right down the middle longways. I really don't think it
makes any difference which way you cut if you have your jigs and saw set up
right.

On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 16:19:52 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:

mac davis wrote:

That was a really hard concept for me at first.. Totally backwards from a
table saw...


Wasn't tough for me... my first big tool *was* a radial arm saw. I honestly
don't see what the big deal is about pulling the blade towards me. It's not
like it's going to suddenly jump the track and shoot out past the table and into
me. I have one hand to the left side of the blade holding the work piece down
and my right hand has the handle of the RAS. If it binds, so what? It's not
going to break my arm.

Being brought up with table saws in my dad's sign shop, the idea of the RAS
rotating the blade tips to the rear was hard to get used to...

I know I'm probably the only one to ever do this, but on my first blade change,
I but the blade on backwards..

You sure appreciate it, though, when something binds and the work is forced
against the fence and not shot out the front..


There is that, too. I have a respect for every tool I own but the RAS is no
worse than any other as far as safety goes.

I think it's a lot safer to rip long pieces on than the TS, if you have a good,
long table.. Also, the "line of fire" if you get kick back is off to the side of
the saw, nowhere near where I'm standing..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

LRod wrote:
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:20:04 -0800, "JOE MOHNIKE"
wrote:

Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull.

That is not correct for a RAS. Always pull the carriage from its
position behind the fence. Yes, it's a climb cut. Yes, that's how it
was designed. No, it's not difficult to manage.


Also, the newer Craftsman RAS has a feature called "Control Cut" which
is a motor controlled cable that only allows the carriage to advance a
an adjustable speed. If you don't pull the trigger on the carriage
handle, you can't pull the carriage towards you.

Before I got mine to replace my old Wards PowrKraft, my technique was
(and still is) to place my left hand on the work piece to the left of
the blade and keeping my right arm straight, pull the carriage by
rolling my right shoulder back. The old RAS motor was controlled by a
trigger on the carriage handle, so you could easily stop the motor
without releasing your grip on the carriage handle. The new Craftsman
motor switch is on the end of the arm, so the control cut feature makes
things safer.

Also, the carriage bearings should be adjusted so there is some
resistance in carriage movement and for sure so there is no side to side
play in the carriage. This helps to control the carriage if there is a
bind.

"mac davis" wrote

I know I'm probably the only one to ever do this, but on my first blade
change,
I but the blade on backwards..


Nope, you are not the only one to ever do this.

It doesn't cut very well backwards either!

On Mar 31, 6:01 pm, mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 16:19:52 -0400, "Mortimer Schnerd, RN"

mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com wrote:
mac davis wrote:
That was a really hard concept for me at first.. Totally backwards from a
table saw...

Wasn't tough for me... my first big tool *was* a radial arm saw. I honestly
don't see what the big deal is about pulling the blade towards me. It's not
like it's going to suddenly jump the track and shoot out past the table and into
me. I have one hand to the left side of the blade holding the work piece down
and my right hand has the handle of the RAS. If it binds, so what? It's not
going to break my arm.

Being brought up with table saws in my dad's sign shop, the idea of the RAS
rotating the blade tips to the rear was hard to get used to...

I know I'm probably the only one to ever do this, but on my first blade change,
I but the blade on backwards..



You sure appreciate it, though, when something binds and the work is forced
against the fence and not shot out the front..

There is that, too. I have a respect for every tool I own but the RAS is no
worse than any other as far as safety goes.

I think it's a lot safer to rip long pieces on than the TS, if you have a good,
long table.. Also, the "line of fire" if you get kick back is off to the side of
the saw, nowhere near where I'm standing..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Are you saying that it is better to rip feeding stock to the blade
coming to you because it cannot kickback?

"Lee Michaels" wrote in
news

"mac davis" wrote

I know I'm probably the only one to ever do this, but on my first
blade change,
I but the blade on backwards..

Nope, you are not the only one to ever do this.

It doesn't cut very well backwards either!




He forgot the emoticon, obviously. ;-)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Mar 31, 2:20*pm, "JOE MOHNIKE" wrote:
Get the owners manuel.
However look at the guides in the arm, there should be 4 bearings with some
kind of adjustment screw, usualy an allen head screw.
Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull. Climbing cuts will bind,
jump and just mess things up.
Good lucl
Joe

If you use the proper blade for a swing saw the above statement is
pure BS

To control a radial arm saw use a blade with about 5 degrees negative
hook.

Hook angle can be determined by placing a straight edge across the
center of the blade , 0 hook will have the tooth face line up with
the straight edge, negative hook will have it pitch back a bit.
A rip blade for the TS has about 20 degree positive hook.

beecrofter wrote:
On Mar 31, 2:20 pm, "JOE MOHNIKE" wrote:
Get the owners manuel.
However look at the guides in the arm, there should be 4 bearings
with some kind of adjustment screw, usualy an allen head screw.
Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull. Climbing cuts
will
bind, jump and just mess things up.
Good lucl
Joe

If you use the proper blade for a swing saw the above statement is
pure BS

To control a radial arm saw use a blade with about 5 degrees
negative
hook.

Hook angle can be determined by placing a straight edge across the
center of the blade , 0 hook will have the tooth face line up with
the straight edge, negative hook will have it pitch back a bit.
A rip blade for the TS has about 20 degree positive hook.

I've never had any problem with any blade in my RAS. I've certainly
never had it "bind, jump, and just mess things up", and I've never
done a push cut on it--that seems like asking for trouble. I do keep
the carriage bearings adjusted so that I have to apply a little force
in either direction to move it. If the carriage is sloppy then you'll
have problems and it doesn't matter what kind of blade you're using.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Apr 1, 7:44 pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
beecrofter wrote:
On Mar 31, 2:20 pm, "JOE MOHNIKE" wrote:
Get the owners manuel.
However look at the guides in the arm, there should be 4 bearings
with some kind of adjustment screw, usualy an allen head screw.
Also you should use the RAS on a push not a pull. Climbing cuts
will
bind, jump and just mess things up.
Good lucl
Joe

If you use the proper blade for a swing saw the above statement is
pure BS

To control a radial arm saw use a blade with about 5 degrees
negative
hook.

Hook angle can be determined by placing a straight edge across the
center of the blade , 0 hook will have the tooth face line up with
the straight edge, negative hook will have it pitch back a bit.
A rip blade for the TS has about 20 degree positive hook.

I've never had any problem with any blade in my RAS. I've certainly
never had it "bind, jump, and just mess things up", and I've never
done a push cut on it--that seems like asking for trouble. I do keep
the carriage bearings adjusted so that I have to apply a little force
in either direction to move it. If the carriage is sloppy then you'll
have problems and it doesn't matter what kind of blade you're using.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

How do you rip without pushing?

On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

How do you rip without pushing?

Tablesaw!

Mark

On Apr 1, 9:22 pm, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

How do you rip without pushing?

Tablesaw!

Mark

Thanks a lot.

What is the difference between pulling a RAS towards yourself and the
board, and keeping the RAS fixed and sliding the board on a sled away
from yourself into the blade?

Wouldn't this be opposite the instructions and warnings?

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...

Are you saying that it is better to rip feeding stock to the blade
coming to you because it cannot kickback?


Most RAS's have a splitter built into the guard. Let that remind you of
which direction to feed stock when ripping.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
On Apr 1, 9:22 pm, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

How do you rip without pushing?

Tablesaw!

Mark

Thanks a lot.

What is the difference between pulling a RAS towards yourself and the
board, and keeping the RAS fixed and sliding the board on a sled away
from yourself into the blade?


Done correctly the RAS fence keeps the board from moving backwards. If you
are using a sled to push the board into the RAS the blade could aggressively
grab and bad results could happen. For those that think pushing the blade
is correct, the blade is always trying to lift the board. When correctly
pulling, the blade is pushing the board down against the table and against
the fence.

On Apr 2, 11:32 am, "Leon" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...

On Apr 1, 9:22 pm, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

How do you rip without pushing?

Tablesaw!

Mark

Thanks a lot.

What is the difference between pulling a RAS towards yourself and the
board, and keeping the RAS fixed and sliding the board on a sled away
from yourself into the blade?

Done correctly the RAS fence keeps the board from moving backwards. If you
are using a sled to push the board into the RAS the blade could aggressively
grab and bad results could happen. For those that think pushing the blade
is correct, the blade is always trying to lift the board. When correctly
pulling, the blade is pushing the board down against the table and against
the fence.

Is the above in the rip position or crosscut?

I am only using my RAS in the rip position. NO movement of the motor.


The motor is fixed!

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Apr 2, 11:32 am, "Leon" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...

On Apr 1, 9:22 pm, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:
How do you rip without pushing?
Tablesaw!
Mark
Thanks a lot.
What is the difference between pulling a RAS towards yourself and the
board, and keeping the RAS fixed and sliding the board on a sled away
from yourself into the blade?
Done correctly the RAS fence keeps the board from moving backwards. If you
are using a sled to push the board into the RAS the blade could aggressively
grab and bad results could happen. For those that think pushing the blade
is correct, the blade is always trying to lift the board. When correctly
pulling, the blade is pushing the board down against the table and against
the fence.

Is the above in the rip position or crosscut?

Obviously in the crosscut position. Some folks who are used to using a
SCMS think the same technique of pushing the blade through the work on a
crosscut applies to a RAS. It doesn't. In the rip position on a RAS,
the work should be fed against the rotation of the blade, the same as a
tablesaw.


I am only using my RAS in the rip position. NO movement of the motor.


The motor is fixed!

You're not getting the full utility out of your RAS. What it excels at
when properly adjusted is crosscutting, particularly if you also have a
tablesaw for ripping.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
On Apr 2, 11:32 am, "Leon" wrote:


Done correctly the RAS fence keeps the board from moving backwards. If
you
are using a sled to push the board into the RAS the blade could
aggressively
grab and bad results could happen. For those that think pushing the
blade
is correct, the blade is always trying to lift the board. When correctly
pulling, the blade is pushing the board down against the table and
against
the fence.

Is the above in the rip position or crosscut?

I am only using my RAS in the rip position. NO movement of the motor.

The splitter is on the front side of the guard when cross cutting. When
ripping the splitter should be down and on the back side of the blade from
the feed side. You should feed the wood against the spin direction of the
blade. The splitter will then be positioned in the kerf on the back side of
the blade.
You cannot use the splitter in the cross cut position with a RAS. The
cross cut operation is the opposite to ripping. When properly cross cutting
there is not kerf for the splitter to be located in as the splitter is in
front of the blade when cross cutting.

On Apr 2, 4:23 pm, Doug Winterburn wrote:
BoyntonStu wrote:
On Apr 2, 11:32 am, "Leon" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...

On Apr 1, 9:22 pm, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:
How do you rip without pushing?
Tablesaw!
Mark
Thanks a lot.
What is the difference between pulling a RAS towards yourself and the
board, and keeping the RAS fixed and sliding the board on a sled away
from yourself into the blade?
Done correctly the RAS fence keeps the board from moving backwards. If you
are using a sled to push the board into the RAS the blade could aggressively
grab and bad results could happen. For those that think pushing the blade
is correct, the blade is always trying to lift the board. When correctly
pulling, the blade is pushing the board down against the table and against
the fence.

Is the above in the rip position or crosscut?

Obviously in the crosscut position. Some folks who are used to using a
SCMS think the same technique of pushing the blade through the work on a
crosscut applies to a RAS. It doesn't. In the rip position on a RAS,
the work should be fed against the rotation of the blade, the same as a
tablesaw.



I am only using my RAS in the rip position. NO movement of the motor.

The motor is fixed!

You're not getting the full utility out of your RAS. What it excels at
when properly adjusted is crosscutting, particularly if you also have a
tablesaw for ripping.

If the arm travel would be as smooth as my slide table, fine.

It isn't.

The slide table is mounted on my table saw top and BOTH are mounted on
my Craftsman 10" radial saw.


I have, in effect, an upside down table saw that tilts on both
directions.

Can you imagine it?

In article ,
says...
On Apr 1, 9:22 pm, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

How do you rip without pushing?

Tablesaw!

Mark

Thanks a lot.

What is the difference between pulling a RAS towards yourself and the
board, and keeping the RAS fixed and sliding the board on a sled away
from yourself into the blade?

Wouldn't this be opposite the instructions and warnings?


To rip with a RAS you swivel the saw around so the blade is parallel to the
fence. It's a good idea to install a featherboard that will push the timber to
be ripped against the fence. You then feed the timber into the blade, so that
the blade throws the chips into your face, rather than the blade pulling the
timber through. It's messy. It's not as accurate as ripping on a tablesaw and
nowhere near as good as ripping on a bandsaw. It also gets dangerous towards
the end of the board that you're pushing through. Pushstick is a must there,
and a receiver at the far end to hold the board is preferable. I certainly
wouldn't recommend doing production runs that way.

Having said that, I once used my RAS to rip weathergrooves into a couple
hundred meters of 3" battens for vertical board and batten cladding.
Preferably, I'll never ever do that again.

***

As for push vs pull - this is what I do: hold the wood firmly agains the fence,
with the saw behind the fence. With a straight arm, shoulder behind the arm,
pull the saw towards me, while firmly holding the wood against the fence. If
the saw wants to climb, I have the physical means to slow it, and if it gets
out of control after all, the thumb is near the power button ( I hope: at least
on my saw it is ). This can happen with very wet and or hard wood if you go too
fast in the first place. There's a learnig curve to that, it hasn't happened to
me in years and years. NB: if the saw does climb, you'll have to re-adjust or
at least check EVERYTHING afterwards.

When I was still learning the tool I tried the push technique. A couple of
times the saw grabbed an offcut and flung it - chucked an 8" length of 2x4 20
yards across a building site once, and smashed a hole into a sheet of ply on
another occasion. Nearly collected the rebound with my head. I don't know why
it happened that way, but it did. Lets just say I do not push the RAS into a
cut any more ... unless I am doing a partial depth cut only to rough out a
tenon or a lap joint, then I go back and forth, back and forth while moving the
timber from side to side into the line of cutting. It's safe for partial depth
cuts.

RAS has been the main tool in my shop for 20odd years, cause I had a crap
bandsaw. Since I've bought the new BS, the RAS is starting to lose a lot of
ground. But it's superb for cross cutting long chunks of lumber

-P.


--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

On Apr 5, 7:10 am, Peter Huebner wrote:
In article ,
says...



On Apr 1, 9:22 pm, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:15:57 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

How do you rip without pushing?

Tablesaw!

Mark

Thanks a lot.

What is the difference between pulling a RAS towards yourself and the
board, and keeping the RAS fixed and sliding the board on a sled away
from yourself into the blade?

Wouldn't this be opposite the instructions and warnings?

To rip with a RAS you swivel the saw around so the blade is parallel to the
fence. It's a good idea to install a featherboard that will push the timber to
be ripped against the fence. You then feed the timber into the blade, so that
the blade throws the chips into your face, rather than the blade pulling the
timber through. It's messy. It's not as accurate as ripping on a tablesaw and
nowhere near as good as ripping on a bandsaw. It also gets dangerous towards
the end of the board that you're pushing through. Pushstick is a must there,
and a receiver at the far end to hold the board is preferable. I certainly
wouldn't recommend doing production runs that way.

Having said that, I once used my RAS to rip weathergrooves into a couple
hundred meters of 3" battens for vertical board and batten cladding.
Preferably, I'll never ever do that again.

***

As for push vs pull - this is what I do: hold the wood firmly agains the fence,
with the saw behind the fence. With a straight arm, shoulder behind the arm,
pull the saw towards me, while firmly holding the wood against the fence. If
the saw wants to climb, I have the physical means to slow it, and if it gets
out of control after all, the thumb is near the power button ( I hope: at least
on my saw it is ). This can happen with very wet and or hard wood if you go too
fast in the first place. There's a learnig curve to that, it hasn't happened to
me in years and years. NB: if the saw does climb, you'll have to re-adjust or
at least check EVERYTHING afterwards.

When I was still learning the tool I tried the push technique. A couple of
times the saw grabbed an offcut and flung it - chucked an 8" length of 2x4 20
yards across a building site once, and smashed a hole into a sheet of ply on
another occasion. Nearly collected the rebound with my head. I don't know why
it happened that way, but it did. Lets just say I do not push the RAS into a
cut any more ... unless I am doing a partial depth cut only to rough out a
tenon or a lap joint, then I go back and forth, back and forth while moving the
timber from side to side into the line of cutting. It's safe for partial depth
cuts.

RAS has been the main tool in my shop for 20odd years, cause I had a crap
bandsaw. Since I've bought the new BS, the RAS is starting to lose a lot of
ground. But it's superb for cross cutting long chunks of lumber

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

Ripping safety and kickback are both dependent upon the rip fence
length.


Using the full length RAS back fence is dangerous.

Why?

Once the blade is though the board that portion of the board is cut.

There is no need for a fence beyond the cut.

Anything longer than that is a part to be pushed against, the first
requirement for kickback.


What is needed is a very short rip fence, just long enough to guide
the board to a complete vertical cut.

After that point, both portions of the cut board are free to go their
own ways without any possibility of kickback.

This is why IMHO ripping on a RAS is inherently dangerous.

Do you now see the rip advantage of my upside down table saw design?

David Starr wrote in
:

*snip*


With that straight arm you push back against the saw's tendency to
pull itself into the work. It won't climb if you keep the cut speed
low. I am of mixed minds about a power switch on the yoke handle. Yes
it does let you kill power quickly, but on the other hand it makes it
easier to accidently turn the saw on while changing blades, adjusting
the blade guard etc. If I had a RAS like that, I would take care to
unplug it when making adjustments just to prevent an accidental
startup.
My RAS has the power switch on the top of the arm.


At the very least, pull the yellow safety tab out of the switch before
you do anything. It's easy protection. (It's still a good idea to
unplug the saw, of course...)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Apr 5, 12:42 pm, Puckdropper wrote:
David Starr wrote :

*snip*



With that straight arm you push back against the saw's tendency to
pull itself into the work. It won't climb if you keep the cut speed
low. I am of mixed minds about a power switch on the yoke handle. Yes
it does let you kill power quickly, but on the other hand it makes it
easier to accidently turn the saw on while changing blades, adjusting
the blade guard etc. If I had a RAS like that, I would take care to
unplug it when making adjustments just to prevent an accidental
startup.
My RAS has the power switch on the top of the arm.

At the very least, pull the yellow safety tab out of the switch before
you do anything. It's easy protection. (It's still a good idea to
unplug the saw, of course...)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Uploaded some photos:

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...63135524KYtZaV