I recently bought a Jacobs chuck and a Morse Taper for my lathe. I think
I'm missing a step somewhere. When I mount it in the tailstock, it just
spins freely, leading to a less aggressive drilling action than I hoped
for.

I can make it drill by holding it still with one hand, but that doesn't
strike me as particularly safe, and it's certainly not comfortable.

What part of this am I missing?

BobMac

"BobMac" wrote: (clip) When I mount it in the tailstock, it just spins
freely, (clip)?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You have something like a Jacobs chuck on a live center. That's really
weird, and should not even exist. Take it back where you got it and ask
them what the h... is going on. They should take it back and give you
something that makes sense, i.e., a Jacobs chuck solidly supported on a
Morse taper (no rotation.)

I would be really intrigued with their explanation. Or did you put this
together yourself, out of pieces that were meant for other uses. A Jacobs
chuck usually mounts on a Jacobs taper. Possibly you got hold of a Morse
taper with a live center that takes interchangeable tips. If these attach
by means of a Jacobs taper, I can see how you could possibly put together
the useless combination you have.

before attempting to answer, let's clarify some indefinite pronouns: What
exactly spins freely? the chuck/ the chuck and the taper? or what? have
you tried extending the tailstock quill about an inch? is the taper the
right size for the tailstock?
"BobMac" wrote in message
...
I recently bought a Jacobs chuck and a Morse Taper for my lathe. I think
I'm missing a step somewhere. When I mount it in the tailstock, it just
spins freely, leading to a less aggressive drilling action than I hoped
for.

I can make it drill by holding it still with one hand, but that doesn't
strike me as particularly safe, and it's certainly not comfortable.

What part of this am I missing?

BobMac



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"BobMac" wrote in message
...
I recently bought a Jacobs chuck and a Morse Taper for my lathe. I think
I'm missing a step somewhere. When I mount it in the tailstock, it just
spins freely, leading to a less aggressive drilling action than I hoped
for.

I can make it drill by holding it still with one hand, but that doesn't
strike me as particularly safe, and it's certainly not comfortable.

What part of this am I missing?


Could be your morse taper's too long, your tail stock too dirty, or it might
be something more bizarre, as others have intimated. I'll trust your good
sense and assume Jacobs is the brand of chuck, whether or not it threads on
or seats in its own taper.

I'd clean both taper and socket, make sure the quill is not retracted and
ejecting my taper, and try again. Snug is a tap sometimes.

Hope you haven't messed up the taper with the spinning.

"George" wrote in message
et...

"BobMac" wrote in message
...
I recently bought a Jacobs chuck and a Morse Taper for my lathe. I think
I'm missing a step somewhere. When I mount it in the tailstock, it just
spins freely, leading to a less aggressive drilling action than I hoped
for.

I can make it drill by holding it still with one hand, but that doesn't
strike me as particularly safe, and it's certainly not comfortable.

What part of this am I missing?


Could be your morse taper's too long, your tail stock too dirty, or it
might be something more bizarre, as others have intimated. I'll trust
your good sense and assume Jacobs is the brand of chuck, whether or not it
threads on or seats in its own taper.

I'd clean both taper and socket, make sure the quill is not retracted and
ejecting my taper, and try again. Snug is a tap sometimes.

Hope you haven't messed up the taper with the spinning.

I got a #2 adaptor to hold a Jacobs taper #33 chuck in the tail stock of
my Delta midi lathe but the joker kept turning kinda like you described.
Then I diagnosticated that the adaptor had a "tab" on the end which
prevented the taper from seating all the way in the tailstock recess. After
cutting off the tab, it worked perfectly. So I will echo what has already be
said already and ask you to scrutinize your problem again and if need be
report back to the group. This is really a great place to glean information
and get answers.

--
Best regards,
Mark Daughtry, SR

On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 22:30:15 -0400, BobMac wrote:

I recently bought a Jacobs chuck and a Morse Taper for my lathe. I think
I'm missing a step somewhere. When I mount it in the tailstock, it just
spins freely, leading to a less aggressive drilling action than I hoped
for.

I can make it drill by holding it still with one hand, but that doesn't
strike me as particularly safe, and it's certainly not comfortable.

What part of this am I missing?

BobMac

My guess with the current info would be either the wrong size Morse taper for
your lathe (#1 #2?) or a dirty taper on your tail stock..

With a proper size and good fit, the chuck should only spin in the taper
(ass-u-me-ing that's what's spinning) if you bind the drill bit or didn't seat
the Morse taper well.. YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mark Daughtry, SR wrote:
"George" wrote in message
et...

"BobMac" wrote in message
...

I recently bought a Jacobs chuck and a Morse Taper for my lathe. I think
I'm missing a step somewhere. When I mount it in the tailstock, it just
spins freely, leading to a less aggressive drilling action than I hoped
for.

I can make it drill by holding it still with one hand, but that doesn't
strike me as particularly safe, and it's certainly not comfortable.

What part of this am I missing?


Could be your morse taper's too long, your tail stock too dirty, or it
might be something more bizarre, as others have intimated. I'll trust
your good sense and assume Jacobs is the brand of chuck, whether or not it
threads on or seats in its own taper.

I'd clean both taper and socket, make sure the quill is not retracted and
ejecting my taper, and try again. Snug is a tap sometimes.

Hope you haven't messed up the taper with the spinning.


I got a #2 adaptor to hold a Jacobs taper #33 chuck in the tail stock of
my Delta midi lathe but the joker kept turning kinda like you described.
Then I diagnosticated that the adaptor had a "tab" on the end which
prevented the taper from seating all the way in the tailstock recess. After
cutting off the tab, it worked perfectly. So I will echo what has already be
said already and ask you to scrutinize your problem again and if need be
report back to the group. This is really a great place to glean information
and get answers.

I had exactly the same problem with some #1 to #2 adaptors. With the
tab they would not seat
properly in either the headstock or tailstock.

Don't think you're missing any parts Bob, ;-)))))))

The answers you got, pretty well cover the whole gamut of possible
problems you could have.
My first thought would be you have a morse taper for a drill press,
and those have a tang (flattened end) on them and this will not fit in
a lathe, you will have to cut or grind the tang off, or return and
trade for a morse taper without a tang.
Next possibility is that your tail stock will eject your morse taper
when retracted all the way back (a good thing to have), in which case
you only have to crank the barrel out a little and then your morse
taper should fit, the way to install a morse taper is by inserting it
with a swift flick of the wrist.
And yes all mating surfaces should be clean, that counts for tapers,
spurs and chucks etc.
Smaller MT ??? well that should be obvious, as there's a large size
difference, would not fit anywhere close.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

What part of this am I missing?

BobMac

you do know that the purpose of that tab is to keep the taper from
rotating - a better solution would be to mill the missing slot into the back
of the quill


I had exactly the same problem with some #1 to #2 adaptors. With the tab
they would not seat
properly in either the headstock or tailstock.




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In article ,
"Mark Daughtry, SR" wrote:



I got a #2 adaptor to hold a Jacobs taper #33 chuck in the tail stock of
my Delta midi lathe but the joker kept turning kinda like you described.
Then I diagnosticated that the adaptor had a "tab" on the end which
prevented the taper from seating all the way in the tailstock recess. After
cutting off the tab, it worked perfectly. So I will echo what has already be
said already and ask you to scrutinize your problem again and if need be
report back to the group. This is really a great place to glean information
and get answers.

The Delta Midi tail stock is short (I had one)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 22:54:12 -0700, "William Noble"
wrote:

you do know that the purpose of that tab is to keep the taper from
rotating - a better solution would be to mill the missing slot into the back
of the quill


I had exactly the same problem with some #1 to #2 adaptors. With the tab
they would not seat
properly in either the headstock or tailstock.

I have a General - Midi-Lathe 25-200, I almost bought a very
nice set of chuck at Woodcraft store. But my General lathe
tail stock and head stock are very short and it will not
take a #2 MT chuck. A normal chuck will work in a Delta or
Ricon mini lathe (forgot which one) and cutting it shorter
may damage the bores, so I decided not to buy.

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 19:24:32 -0700, "
wrote:

Don't think you're missing any parts Bob, ;-)))))))

The answers you got, pretty well cover the whole gamut of possible
problems you could have.
My first thought would be you have a morse taper for a drill press,
and those have a tang (flattened end) on them and this will not fit in
a lathe, you will have to cut or grind the tang off, or return and
trade for a morse taper without a tang.
Next possibility is that your tail stock will eject your morse taper
when retracted all the way back (a good thing to have), in which case
you only have to crank the barrel out a little and then your morse
taper should fit, the way to install a morse taper is by inserting it
with a swift flick of the wrist.
And yes all mating surfaces should be clean, that counts for tapers,
spurs and chucks etc.
Smaller MT ??? well that should be obvious, as there's a large size
difference, would not fit anywhere close.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

I guess I'm lucky, Leo... My 1442 has the eject feature and my drill chuck came
with the taper with flattened end that you mention, but they work well
together..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 22:30:15 -0400, BobMac wrote:

I recently bought a Jacobs chuck and a Morse Taper for my lathe. I think
I'm missing a step somewhere. When I mount it in the tailstock, it just
spins freely, leading to a less aggressive drilling action than I hoped
for.

I can make it drill by holding it still with one hand, but that doesn't
strike me as particularly safe, and it's certainly not comfortable.

What part of this am I missing?

BobMac

My guess with the current info would be either the wrong size Morse taper for
your lathe (#1 #2?) or a dirty taper on your tail stock..

With a proper size and good fit, the chuck should only spin in the taper
(ass-u-me-ing that's what's spinning) if you bind the drill bit or didn't seat
the Morse taper well.. YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
Well I grabbed a couple of minutes to mess around with it, and the
likely problem seems to be the grease on the taper. I'll probably get a
chance to mess about with it this weekend, and I'll know more then.

Thanks for all the thought and ideas.

BobMac

"BobMac" wroteclip) the likely problem seems to be the grease on the
taper. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I feel sort of vindicated, even though my answer was MILES off. Kuz, so was
everyone else's. Grease on the taper? Not in a million years would that
have occurred to me.

Hi Leo, Not trying to 'disvindicate' you or divert BobMac's thread, but
just to mildly 'microargue'. A revolving Jacobs chuck held _firmly in a
tail spindle might not be totally useless. I'm wondering about using it
to gently stretch or at least not compress a super thin axial grain
spindle turned between chucks.

Of course there are other methods to keep a skinny spindle from
whipping.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Sat, 01 Sep 2007 01:53:13 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"BobMac" wroteclip) the likely problem seems to be the grease on the
taper. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I feel sort of vindicated, even though my answer was MILES off. Kuz, so was
everyone else's. Grease on the taper? Not in a million years would that
have occurred to me.

hmm... me either... Maybe it was shipped with cosmoline or whatever on it?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Arch" wrote: (clip) A revolving Jacobs chuck held _firmly in a tail
spindle might not be totally useless. I'm wondering about using it to gently
stretch or at least not compress a super thin axial grain spindle turned
between chucks. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You are absolutely right, Arch. Now that you mention it, I recall threads
which discussed how to attach a Jacobs chuck to a revolving tailstock mount,
for that very purpose.

I also recall that once the spindle is turned "super-thin," the job MUST be
turned to comletion without stopping--else on restart, the piece would just
twist in two.

Hi there other Leo

Sorry to blow your bubble there other Leo ;-*)))

I did cover that with ..........."all mating surfaces should be
clean".

I would guess though that most anyone would know that things that are
not supposed to turn, shouldn't have oil or grease/lubricants on them,
then again .....?????

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Aug 31, 9:53 pm, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
"BobMac" wroteclip) the likely problem seems to be the grease on the

taper. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I feel sort of vindicated, even though my answer was MILES off. Kuz, so was
everyone else's. Grease on the taper? Not in a million years would that
have occurred to me.

wrote: Sorry to blow your bubble there other Leo
;-*)))
I did cover that with ..........."all mating surfaces should be clean".
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Well, Other Other Leo--one thing this proves: there is no better search
engine than a person who is mis-quoted or who fails to get credit for an
idea. In this case it is you. I would have had to re-read the entire
thread, and still might have missed the relevant line. You brought it
immediately to my attention. G

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

wrote: Sorry to blow your bubble there other Leo
;-*)))
I did cover that with ..........."all mating surfaces should be clean".
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Well, Other Other Leo--one thing this proves: there is no better search
engine than a person who is mis-quoted or who fails to get credit for an
idea. In this case it is you. I would have had to re-read the entire
thread, and still might have missed the relevant line. You brought it
immediately to my attention. G


Y'know there was another post early in the chain that recommended cleaning.

"Could be your Morse taper's too long, your tail stock too dirty, or it
might
be something more bizarre, as others have intimated."

"I'd clean both taper and socket, make sure the quill is not retracted and
ejecting my taper, and try again. "

Must have been a pretty good answer, what?

Leo Lichtman wrote:

I also recall that once the spindle is turned "super-thin," the job MUST be
turned to comletion without stopping--else on restart, the piece would just
twist in two.

I'm not sure how small "super thin" is, but I an turn 0.02" diameter
stuff
"between centers" to start with, or more accurately - chucked on the
drive end and supported on the tail stock end by a live center.

If you're turning dry straight grained stuff, preferably tight closed
grain wood, and turn from tail stock end back towards the chuck you
can turn pretty thin without any finished end support - IF you turn
and finish as you go, cutting only in short increments and only back
to the thicker, chucked end of the blank.

The without stopping isn't any issue using this method - though
it definitely is when the part is stretched (held in tension) between
ends. Doesn't take much difference in angular velocity between
ends to twist the wood fibers passed their breaking point. I made
the mistake of trying to burnish a small diameter turning with
saw dust. Just the little bit of friction involved was enough to
twist the piece apart.

Though it sounds tricky, turning to really small diameters is pretty
easy with what amounts to a small, single bevel bedan -actually a
1/16th inch parting tool. Use it to turn down short sections - say
in just under 1/4" increments - making very light scraping cuts when
your close to where you want to be, starting "heavier" cuts with the
head stock end corner of the tool and peeling back to the thicker
part of the blank. Easier to do than to describe.

charlie b