I've been experimenting with proportions for a homemade poly/oil finish
(poly, blo,& tung).

Has anyone had success with a blend and application process that will give a
satin finish and good hyde?

John W wrote:
I've been experimenting with proportions for a homemade poly/oil finish
(poly, blo,& tung).

Has anyone had success with a blend and application process that will give a
satin finish and good hyde?

I have used one part by volume each of gloss polyurethane varnish, 100%
tung oil and naphtha or paint thinner. I normally apply a coat of Deft
first, wiping on with a paper towel, allow to dry, steel wool or
scotchbrite then rub in several caots of the oil varnish mix, using
steel wool or scotchbrite in between coats. Finish looks best when
buffed and waxed

Sorry, but I'm not sure what you mean by hyde.

Hope this helps

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

I was looking for the same thing recently, and went to David Marks
website looking for the formula, since he mentions it frequently on his
show. Turns out this is one of the "frequently asked questions", and
the answer is that he uses General Finishes products. I've just
finished some Cherry tables using their "Seal-A-Cell" and "Armor-Seal"
products, and have been very pleased with both the ease of application
and final result. The Seal-A-Cell is an oil used for the initial coat,
and popped the grain on some curly cherry quite well. The Armor-Seal is
a wipe-on poly/oil mixture, and 3 coats are recommended. I've got the
3rd coat drying now, and the final product looks great.


Ron

"Kip" wrote in message
oups.com...

John W wrote:
I've been experimenting with proportions for a homemade poly/oil finish
(poly, blo,& tung).

Has anyone had success with a blend and application process that will
give a
satin finish and good hyde?

I have used one part by volume each of gloss polyurethane varnish, 100%
tung oil and naphtha or paint thinner. I normally apply a coat of Deft
first, wiping on with a paper towel, allow to dry, steel wool or
scotchbrite then rub in several caots of the oil varnish mix, using
steel wool or scotchbrite in between coats. Finish looks best when
buffed and waxed
=======================
Kip,
I've seen a similar procedure advocated before and I have a question about
it. For me, the most useful thing the oil (tung, boiled linseed, etc.) does
is "pop the grain. By applying Deft (or lacquer, shellac, etc) you're
sealing the surface of the wood. So my question is: do you Scotchbrite or
steel wool all of it off, or are you building your oils over the surface of
the sealer? I like to do the oil first, then layer on the other ingredients.
That way the wood has a chance to absorb the colorant deeper into the wood.
Am I missing something here??

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

I am using a 1/3 mixture of urethane, boiled linseed oil, and mineral
spirits on highly figured pine. I have another issue...I dipped,
dried, sanded the piece several times and it looks good, but when I put
the piece in the sun, it "sweats" beads of finish. I assume it isn't
really dry. Is there a better way to dry the piece instead of air
drying? I live at 9,000' feet with 20% hunidity.

Bob

"Bob Threlkeld" wrote in message
oups.com...

I am using a 1/3 mixture of urethane, boiled linseed oil, and mineral
spirits on highly figured pine. I have another issue...I dipped,
dried, sanded the piece several times and it looks good, but when I put
the piece in the sun, it "sweats" beads of finish. I assume it isn't
really dry. Is there a better way to dry the piece instead of air
drying? I live at 9,000' feet with 20% hunidity.


You need to apply in discreet coats, wiping well in between. What you have
now is oil which cures by oxygen cross-linking trapped under a film of
barely-cured oil, which walls out oxygen.

That's for the future. Since you soaked this one, warm it up to speed
chemistry and keep wiping up the bleed-through.

"Bob Threlkeld" wrote in message
oups.com...

I am using a 1/3 mixture of urethane, boiled linseed oil, and mineral
spirits on highly figured pine. I have another issue...I dipped,
dried, sanded the piece several times and it looks good, but when I put
the piece in the sun, it "sweats" beads of finish. I assume it isn't
really dry. Is there a better way to dry the piece instead of air
drying? I live at 9,000' feet with 20% hunidity.

Bob
===================
Bob,
Are you sure what you're seeing is really the finish? Pine is very bad about
secreteing it own sap when heated, even after it appears to be totally
"dried".

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

Thanks, George. Will do

I think that I probably remove most of the sealer with
Scotchbrite/steel wool but doubt that it is possible to get it all. In
my experience, it takes fewer coats of the oil/varnish mix to get a
satisfactory finish - so if you don't mind more coats, skip the sealer

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

"Kip" wrote in message
oups.com...
I think that I probably remove most of the sealer with
Scotchbrite/steel wool but doubt that it is possible to get it all. In
my experience, it takes fewer coats of the oil/varnish mix to get a
satisfactory finish - so if you don't mind more coats, skip the sealer

Kip Powers
Rogers, AR
===================

Kip,
I understand about the build up of the finish, but what about the color? In
my experience, the sealers only allow oil penetration in areas where it has
incomplete coverage. For instance, sealers are useful for woods with wild
grain like cherry to prevent blotching due to uneven colorant (oil, stain,
etc.) penetration. For porous woods like oak, walnut, etc., I'll use the oil
first to get the color, then use the sealant to build the surface finish as
needed, then any additional final finish (lacquer, poly, wax, etc., or a mix
of any of these like you're using). Don't know if either way is better, or
just a turner's choice. But it just seems to me that if you put the sealer
on first, then you're just trying color the sealer instead of the wood. Just
my opinion.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

Ken:

Interesting point. My experience with oak is negligible. With figured
walnut, using the sealer first results in the figure showing nicely
IMHO although I haven't done a really good experiment to compare
sealer/no sealer. I'll try to remember to put that on my list of stuff
to try. But for the last couple of years, lighter color woods have
sold better for me and I haven't worked walnut very often, even though
it's fairl;y easy to find here

Kip