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| UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#81
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"Lobster" wrote in message ... Mary Fisher wrote: But you'd have mixed colours and fabrics, they'd still have to be sorted. Erm - why? Because we don't like to have everything pink :-) Mary David (who usually does the washing in our house... :-) |
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#82
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The message
from "IMM" contains these words: Not so. You do it in phases. You don't dig a trench all around the building. You dig out 1.5 meters, install insulation and backfill, and work your way around the house. You have to take into account all building types when you give this sort of advice. Thre are very old buildings with no foundations at all which would possibly not survive this treatment. This is true. The building in question is a barn, which would have the floor excavated, and a new floor poured with insulation under. A massive cold bridge would be to the side. This method solves that. In most houses with a concrete slab floor it would too. Seems we can add a complete lack of spatial awareness to the long list of dIMMs other shortcomings. The insulation layer in the floor is almost bound to be above ground level so insulating the external walls below ground level is a complete waste of time, money and effort. -- Roger |
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#83
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"Roger" wrote in message k... The message from "IMM" contains these words: Not so. You do it in phases. You don't dig a trench all around the building. You dig out 1.5 meters, install insulation and backfill, and work your way around the house. You have to take into account all building types when you give this sort of advice. Thre are very old buildings with no foundations at all which would possibly not survive this treatment. This is true. The building in question is a barn, which would have the floor excavated, and a new floor poured with insulation under. A massive cold bridge would be to the side. This method solves that. In most houses with a concrete slab floor it would too. Seems we can add a snip drivel Complete misinformation |
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#84
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IMM wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 01:45:16 -0000, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 13:14:42 -0000, "IMM" wrote: "IMM" wrote in message To add, electrical cables in conduits with cables running behind skirtings. Conduits would have to be substantial steel to protect if you wanted to do this with power cables in this position...... Then no need to butcher Warmcell filled walls in the futrure when cables need extending around a room. Large porch to act as an air lock and a place to put wet clothes and shoes. I thought it was a house rather than a space ship..... Yep it is. It is also keeps in heat very well and air tight too. You don't want any of that heat to run out the door, so you have one with doors at right angles, so it is difficult for both be open at the same time. That's going to be really convenient for getting things in and out, including people in an emergency. No. You have a big porch. Duh! Which immediately defeats your previous statement that "... you have one with doors at right angles, so it is difficult for both to be open at the same time." If that is the case, then you need a porch large enough to hold a 3 seater settee, 2 large adults along with space to move around and open/close each door individually. Realistically you're talking about an 8'x8' room. That's not a porch, that's a total waste of space. In fact it could be worse than that. If you assumed a wheelchair bound person and doors that cannot be opened simultaneously, then you may well have found a new way to reduce over-population. Cheers Clive |
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#85
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"Clive Summerfield" wrote in message .uk... IMM wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 01:45:16 -0000, "IMM" wrote: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 13:14:42 -0000, "IMM" wrote: "IMM" wrote in message To add, electrical cables in conduits with cables running behind skirtings. Conduits would have to be substantial steel to protect if you wanted to do this with power cables in this position...... Then no need to butcher Warmcell filled walls in the futrure when cables need extending around a room. Large porch to act as an air lock and a place to put wet clothes and shoes. I thought it was a house rather than a space ship..... Yep it is. It is also keeps in heat very well and air tight too. You don't want any of that heat to run out the door, so you have one with doors at right angles, so it is difficult for both be open at the same time. That's going to be really convenient for getting things in and out, including people in an emergency. No. You have a big porch. Duh! Which immediately defeats your previous statement I doesn't. snip the rest |
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#86
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Mary Fisher wrote:
"Lobster" wrote in message ... Mary Fisher wrote: But you'd have mixed colours and fabrics, they'd still have to be sorted. Erm - why? Because we don't like to have everything pink :-) But especially with modern low-temperature detergents, even cheapo coloured items don't keep bleeding dye after a few washes, so provided you make sure that occasional new, susceptible items are not included in the same load as any whites for the first 3 or 4 washes, no problem. And when you have as many weekly washing loads as my tribe produces, it's easily managed - less faff than sorting everything out beforehand. Strewth, I've turned into Aggie. Better get back to my bathroom refit rapidly!! David |
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#87
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"IMM" wrote in message ... Large porch to act as an air lock and a place to put wet clothes and shoes. I thought it was a house rather than a space ship..... Yep it is. It is also keeps in heat very well and air tight too. You don't want any of that heat to run out the door, so you have one with doors at right angles, so it is difficult for both be open at the same time. That's going to be really convenient for getting things in and out, including people in an emergency. No. You have a big porch. Duh! Which immediately defeats your previous statement I doesn't. snip the rest Why are we not surprised! |
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#88
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"Lobster" wrote in message ... Mary Fisher wrote: "Lobster" wrote in message ... Mary Fisher wrote: But you'd have mixed colours and fabrics, they'd still have to be sorted. Erm - why? Because we don't like to have everything pink :-) But especially with modern low-temperature detergents, even cheapo coloured items don't keep bleeding dye after a few washes, You only need to do it once ... for some reason the dye is fast once it's bled into other fabrics. so provided you make sure that occasional new, susceptible items are not included in the same load as any whites for the first 3 or 4 washes, no problem. You COUNT how often something is washed? And when you have as many weekly washing loads as my tribe produces, it's easily managed - less faff than sorting everything out beforehand. Well, everyone makes mistakes. If you never have your time is to come and I promise you your kids won't thank you for pink (or any other tint) knickers when they shouldn't be. Currently, with just the two of us wrinklies, we normally only have from three to six loads weekly. Occasionally we have more. When the five brats were at home it was more like that number every day and there was more than one disster (as they sw it) which has continued down the years as Mother's Greatest Attempt at Public Humiliation. Strewth, I've turned into Aggie. Better get back to my bathroom refit rapidly!! Who's Aggie? David |
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#89
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Mary Fisher wrote:
"Lobster" wrote in message ... so provided you make sure that occasional new, susceptible items are not included in the same load as any whites for the first 3 or 4 washes, no problem. You COUNT how often something is washed? Well of course! Doesn't everyone? There's a wall chart in the utility room detailing each person's garments, date of purchase, any special washing instructions, and naturally the date of each wash. (Alternative answer - "hmm - have I ever put this through the wash before? y/n") Strewth, I've turned into Aggie. Better get back to my bathroom refit rapidly!! Who's Aggie? Being telly-less I thought you might ask that! Try: http://www.channel4.com/life/microsi...is_your_house/ David |
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#90
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"Lobster" wrote in message ... Mary Fisher wrote: "Lobster" wrote in message ... so provided you make sure that occasional new, susceptible items are not included in the same load as any whites for the first 3 or 4 washes, no problem. You COUNT how often something is washed? Well of course! Doesn't everyone? There's a wall chart in the utility room detailing each person's garments, date of purchase, any special washing instructions, and naturally the date of each wash. (Alternative answer - "hmm - have I ever put this through the wash before? y/n") Er - either you're having me on or you need to get out more :-) Strewth, I've turned into Aggie. Better get back to my bathroom refit rapidly!! Who's Aggie? Being telly-less I thought you might ask that! Try: http://www.channel4.com/life/microsi...is_your_house/ Heck! The only things I got a sight of before a yellow splodge map of Australia blocked everything were pictures of my pal Phil and that prat T Robinson. Neither of those is called Aggie as far as I know ... ! Now I'm SURE you're having me on! Mary David |
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#91
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am geting 50W 12v units at 74p each. Can I ask where from? Any good? The ones in our kitchen blow even more regularly than I'd expect from incandescent bulbs and are costing me a fortune. I find the worst offenders are Screwfix's; currently using Wickes at £2.50 a pop and aren't a whole lot better. David |
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#92
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Shuldnt be too hard to add one. Fancy another job?
NT |
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#93
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the natural philospoher wrote:
wrote: 8. Cellar. This is a pretty major deal. If you can install a poured concrete cellar the size of the house, with no electrics/ plaster/ anything else to keep cost down, then in futuer you can convert the cellar into habitable and make your house 50% bigger. Thats no small thing. Its also the one area that can be very very dodgy. Fancy having it fill with seage because down the road has blocked the sewers? My sister had this happen three times on a new build house in Germany. Making cellars habitable implies running water. Beware of what happens if it can't run out. These are things that can be addressed at conversion time later, if you do convert, and they dont strike me as the biggest of hurdles. You may not need to have running water down there at all. If you do, the waste can be pumped. If youre going to the extra of having a cellar, I assume youve already got a ground floor bog, would be silly not to. In which case a cellar loo is not normally necessary. NT |
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#94
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"Mary Fisher" wrote in message et... "IMM" wrote in message ... Large porch to act as an air lock and a place to put wet clothes and shoes. I thought it was a house rather than a space ship..... Yep it is. It is also keeps in heat very well and air tight too. You don't want any of that heat to run out the door, so you have one with doors at right angles, so it is difficult for both be open at the same time. That's going to be really convenient for getting things in and out, including people in an emergency. No. You have a big porch. Duh! Which immediately defeats your previous statement I doesn't. snip the rest Why are we not surprised! Because even you my dear Mary recognises drivel. |
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#95
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"IMM" wrote in message ... "Mary Fisher" wrote in message et... "IMM" wrote in message ... Large porch to act as an air lock and a place to put wet clothes and shoes. I thought it was a house rather than a space ship..... Yep it is. It is also keeps in heat very well and air tight too. You don't want any of that heat to run out the door, so you have one with doors at right angles, so it is difficult for both be open at the same time. That's going to be really convenient for getting things in and out, including people in an emergency. No. You have a big porch. Duh! Which immediately defeats your previous statement I doesn't. snip the rest Why are we not surprised! Because even you my dear Mary recognises drivel. Quite. it was in your post. Your grammar is also wrong. |
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#96
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John Borman wrote:
Hi people, am just looking to pick peoples brains. After 4 year battle with the local planners we have finally got planning permission for the conversion of a Barn into residential premises. Waiting so long we are eager to get things rolling, and will be seeing the architect in the next week or so. SNIP May have been mentioned, but I have lost the will to re-read the thread. If you have high ceilings, as I suspect you might in a barn, you should have some way to stop the air stratifying. Warm air rising as it does, it all collects at the top where it's damn all use. Ducts and fans, or sweep fans to personal choice. Andrew |
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#97
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The message
from "IMM" contains these words: This is true. The building in question is a barn, which would have the floor excavated, and a new floor poured with insulation under. A massive cold bridge would be to the side. This method solves that. In most houses with a concrete slab floor it would too. Seems we can add a snip drivel Complete misinformation Most of what you type is indeed complete misinformation and this is no exception but you owe it to your adoring public to tell them were I went wrong. Is it that subfloor insulation is not usually above ground level or did you have some more exotic location for your cold bridge? Alaska perhaps. :-) -- Roger |
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#98
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#99
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#100
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"Andrew Chesters" wrote in message ... John Borman wrote: Hi people, am just looking to pick peoples brains. After 4 year battle with the local planners we have finally got planning permission for the conversion of a Barn into residential premises. Waiting so long we are eager to get things rolling, and will be seeing the architect in the next week or so. SNIP May have been mentioned, but I have lost the will to re-read the thread. If you have high ceilings, as I suspect you might in a barn, you should have some way to stop the air stratifying. Warm air rising as it does, it all collects at the top where it's damn all use. Ducts and fans, or sweep fans to personal choice. Good point |
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#101
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"John Anderton" wrote in message news  Is this another case of environmental agencies in different areas having different interpretations of the new regulations regarding septic tanks, I wonder ? Yep ! Plus worries on what ramblers might end up walking in. Always thought a rambler up to his neck in ****e was an improvement myself :-) Do you often have ramblers in your garden, then ? Yes. Despite clear signs they still get lost and end up in our garden rather than walking across our field. |
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#102
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"Peter Crosland" wrote in message ... Reed bed sewage treatment Big debate on whether these are legal or not. My authority will not allow them no matter how much you plead with them despite the huge amounts of cow-****e the reeds in our fields deal with. Also septic tanks are discourage and they want Klaristers (sp?) installed. The responsibility of the Environment Agency rather than the planners surely? Not in a National Park. |
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#103
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The natural philospoher wrote:
wrote: What strikes me about this thread is that build time is usually a time of needing to cut costs, not to splurge on everything you dont need. I would therefore take a 2 phase approach. Work out what you ideally want, but only put in the things that need to go in, plus the things that will enable the rest to be put in some other day. Yes, but yu need to put everything in teh walls and teh ground that you might want at a futire datye, in there now. Well, yes and no. Theres no need to put wiring in the walls as when you eventually wire it, if you do, it can go on the surface hapily enough, or better, in easy to open 2 channel conduit. Theres no need to put water supplies in walls either, they can go on surface ok. And you DON'T want to have to e.g. hange windows. In an ideal world youd do everything at initial build, but I suspect thats not the way to get the best for ones money. The way to get the max is just to make the basement shell and leave it unused, spend the rest of the money above ground. That means not putting in wiring, light wells, windows, plumbign, anything. As long as openings and lintels are there in the structure its straightforward to convert it in the future, as and when time and funds are freer. So all pipes and wires and drains, have to be right for now, and for a long time to come. I cant see why. And it helps to put ****loads of insulation everywhere. (except round the founations, which is ********, put it under teh floor) It would, but it costs at the very time you need to be cutting back on outgoings. Extra insulation could be done later at basement conversion and plastering time, battens rockwool and PB. NT |
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#104
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"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Mike wrote: You'll need to put all your sockets in silly positions and have a silly door stop, then change it all back to sensible once the BCO has signed you off. What was the reference to the door stop all about? (a bit or building regs that I have missed no doubt!) The 'standard' door stops we are all used to that stop rain coming under the door aren't allowed as they are hard to negotiate in a wheelchair. So now you can get a wheelchair in but the entrance hall always has a wet floor. |
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#105
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"Mike" wrote in message ... "John Rumm" wrote in message ... Mike wrote: You'll need to put all your sockets in silly positions and have a silly door stop, then change it all back to sensible once the BCO has signed you off. What was the reference to the door stop all about? (a bit or building regs that I have missed no doubt!) The 'standard' door stops we are all used to that stop rain coming under the door aren't allowed as they are hard to negotiate in a wheelchair. So now you can get a wheelchair in but the entrance hall always has a wet floor. I think you mean thresholds and in a way you're right. But the frames of all the PVu doors I've seen are so deep that they're dangerous even for people on two legs, I think they'd be impossible for wheelchairs. It's a very big bee in my bonnet ... Mary |
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#106
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wrote in message oups.com... The natural philospoher wrote: wrote: What strikes me about this thread is that build time is usually a time of needing to cut costs, not to splurge on everything you dont need. I would therefore take a 2 phase approach. Work out what you ideally want, but only put in the things that need to go in, plus the things that will enable the rest to be put in some other day. Yes, but yu need to put everything in teh walls and teh ground that you might want at a futire datye, in there now. Well, yes and no. Theres no need to put wiring in the walls as when you eventually wire it, if you do, it can go on the surface hapily enough, or better, in easy to open 2 channel conduit. Theres no need to put water supplies in walls either, they can go on surface ok. And you DON'T want to have to e.g. hange windows. In an ideal world youd do everything at initial build, but I suspect thats not the way to get the best for ones money. The way to get the max is just to make the basement shell and leave it unused, spend the rest of the money above ground. That means not putting in wiring, light wells, windows, plumbign, anything. As long as openings and lintels are there in the structure its straightforward to convert it in the future, as and when time and funds are freer. So all pipes and wires and drains, have to be right for now, and for a long time to come. I cant see why. And it helps to put ****loads of insulation everywhere. (except round the founations, which is ********, put it under teh floor) It would, but it costs at the very time you need to be cutting back on outgoings. Extra insulation could be done later at basement conversion and plastering time, battens rockwool and PB. Insulation under the floor can't be done afterwards. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. Rimming the foundations can. |
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#107
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"Mary Fisher" wrote in message et... The 'standard' door stops we are all used to that stop rain coming under the door aren't allowed as they are hard to negotiate in a wheelchair. So now you can get a wheelchair in but the entrance hall always has a wet floor. I think you mean thresholds and in a way you're right. But the frames of all the PVu doors I've seen are so deep that they're dangerous even for people on two legs, I think they'd be impossible for wheelchairs. It's a very big bee in my bonnet ... To me thresholds are wooden or plastic strips that stick up onto the bottom of the door, whereas a doorstop is a continuation of the surround at the sides and top and gives a much more definitate closure to wind and rain. Agree the PVC ones are useless either way. |
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#108
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On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:12:42 -0000, "IMM" wrote:
Insulation under the floor can't be done afterwards. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. Rimming the foundations can. Are you an expert on rimming of foundations? -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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#109
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:12:42 -0000, "IMM" wrote: Insulation under the floor can't be done afterwards. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. Rimming the foundations can. Are you an expert on rimming of foundations? IMM's a self-determined expert on everything. -- .andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
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#110
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Extra insulation could be done later at basement conversion
and plastering time, battens rockwool and PB. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. This is a reply to a post that explained how to and extra insulation to the walls after build! What a smartie. Next you'll be telling us cavity wall insulation and solid wall insulation dont exist... how else could you stand by your claim that it cant be done after? NT |
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#111
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If I knew the numbers I could do some calcs and see what came out of it
all. I'd need to know: cost per m2 of floor of building above ground dwelling, with all services, finishes, fittings, everything. cost per m2 of concrete block or poured crete cellar, with no fittings whatever, nada. cost per m2 to finish cellar: fit insulation, doors, windows, wiring and carpets. Then it would be poss to make some estimated calcs to see which approach gives what. NT |
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#112
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In message , Mary
Fisher writes "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:12:42 -0000, "IMM" wrote: Insulation under the floor can't be done afterwards. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. Rimming the foundations can. Are you an expert on rimming of foundations? IMM's a self-determined expert on everything. Mary - just don't google for rimming, OK ? -- geoff |
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#113
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Laundry:
Have a laundry room upstairs. Saves carting all down and back up. Or, if you prefer to line dry and iron have a laundry chute from above into laundry area. (Top loading washing machines can be opened mid cycle to throw in the sock you dropped too) |
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#114
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"Mary Fisher" wrote in message et... "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:12:42 -0000, "IMM" wrote: Insulation under the floor can't be done afterwards. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. Rimming the foundations can. Are you an expert on rimming of foundations? IMM's a self-determined expert on everything. Ah, noticed at last Mary. |
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#115
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"raden" wrote in message ... In message , Mary Fisher writes "Andy Hall" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 22:12:42 -0000, "IMM" wrote: Insulation under the floor can't be done afterwards. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. Rimming the foundations can. Are you an expert on rimming of foundations? IMM's a self-determined expert on everything. Mary - just don't google for rimming, OK ? Maxie, please refrain! |
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#116
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wrote in message oups.com... Extra insulation could be done later at basement conversion and plastering time, battens rockwool and PB. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. This is a reply to a post that explained how to and extra insulation to the walls after build! What a smartie. How are you going to put it under the floor? Your post was bordering on silly. You get the structure with the insulation right first time, not coming back afterwards and attempt to retrofit. |
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#117
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A room where He can go to get away from Her and Them is a complete
marriage saver. I think that such rooms are usually called pubs. |
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#118
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wrote in message oups.com... Theres no need to put wiring in the walls as when you eventually wire it, if you do, it can go on the surface hapily enough, Are you having a laugh? Wires aroundthe walls in a new build? Theres no need to put water supplies in walls either, they can go on surface ok. You are having a laugh. |
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#119
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"IMM" wrote in message ... wrote in message oups.com... Extra insulation could be done later at basement conversion and plastering time, battens rockwool and PB. Insulation in walls can't be done aftewards either. This is a reply to a post that explained how to and extra insulation to the walls after build! What a smartie. How are you going to put it under the floor? Your post was bordering on silly. You get the structure with the insulation right first time, not coming back afterwards and attempt to retrofit. I think the key point to note is that there is no way you can meet part L without doing all these things to a reasonable standard at first. |
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#120
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Roger wrote:
The message from "IMM" contains these words: Not so. You do it in phases. You don't dig a trench all around the building. You dig out 1.5 meters, install insulation and backfill, and work your way around the house. You have to take into account all building types when you give this sort of advice. Thre are very old buildings with no foundations at all which would possibly not survive this treatment. This is true. The building in question is a barn, which would have the floor excavated, and a new floor poured with insulation under. A massive cold bridge would be to the side. This method solves that. In most houses with a concrete slab floor it would too. Seems we can add a complete lack of spatial awareness to the long list of dIMMs other shortcomings. The insulation layer in the floor is almost bound to be above ground level so insulating the external walls below ground level is a complete waste of time, money and effort. Not entirely true, since even after the insulation layer there is a 'pond' of warmth under a house. This des leak out via the ground to the cold soil surface BUT stopping it going THROUGH the foundations is not a lot of use, since there is effectively a massive cold bridge UNDER them. If you have no floor insulation whatsoever, it probably makes a bit of difference, but with decent floor insulation, its negligible as you say. Polystyrene around foundations is normally applied to absorb soil heave, not insulate. |
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