I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:08:21 GMT, (Jake) wrote:


I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake

My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
direct connection.

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.

The project as a whole certainly worked, although also consisted of
lowering the ground level outside and putting in some trenches filled
with gravel.

I suspect that it was the ground lowering that really did the job.


--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:08:21 GMT, (Jake)
wrote:

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work?

It works very well, it is a two part procedure.

Firstly, to install it you have to clear all the rubbish from around
the house and reinstate drains etc.

Secondly, you sacrifice a hamster in the woods at midnight and rub
your copper sticks with its fur. You take a control box from an
electronic water deioniser/dephlogisticator/destickystuffincalcium
thing and connect it to the blessed copper rods.

The damp disappears.

Those that say only stage 1 is needed have simply failed to see the
light and have not paid enough to the dampfmeisters.


--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 21:35:04 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.

ROFL....

Just how pathetic would a company's behaviour over supporting its
"guarantees" have to be before they became a cowboy outfit ?
Rentokil's was worse.


Electro-osmotic damp-proofing works fine, so long as you really have
an osmotic damp problem. If you have a fibreglass house with
penetrating damp, it's probably worth a try, It might even work for
fibreglass boats, but I imagine the current would need to be enormous.

--
Smert' spamionam

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:57:49 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 21:35:04 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.

ROFL....

Just how pathetic would a company's behaviour over supporting its
"guarantees" have to be before they became a cowboy outfit ?
Rentokil's was worse.


Not my purchasing decision. As I recall, (and it was about 40 years
ago), sorting out of a damp course was a mortgage pre-requisite and
this was the least expensive and least disruptive option accepted by
the building society.

You have to remember that in those days building society and bank
managers were God and largely called the shots.

The bulding society also insisted that a meat safe was provided in the
kitchen..

Whether there was a back hander from Rentokil to the building society
manager, I have no idea.


Electro-osmotic damp-proofing works fine, so long as you really have
an osmotic damp problem. If you have a fibreglass house with
penetrating damp, it's probably worth a try, It might even work for
fibreglass boats, but I imagine the current would need to be enormous.


I didn't say that I thought it actually *did* anything......




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andy Hall wrote:

My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
direct connection.

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.


ROFL 20 year guarantee! Coldseal windows gave 10/15/20 year g/tees and where
are they? Re-incarnated as Warmseal! Formally Stormseal, and before that (if
my memory serves well - Guardian Fenster). There should be legislation
against such practices.

I'm not saying that where such guarantees are necessary they shouldn't be
provided - but where a company blatantly builds up such a consumer base
based on such guarantees (and then "goes to the wall" because the
liabilities might overburden them) are allowed to re-incarnate themselves by
changing name with the same directors in charge!

Sorry for stealing the thread!
--

Reply address is spamtrapped. Remove theobvious for valid e-mail address

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 01:22:36 -0000, "Paul King"
wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:

My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
direct connection.

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.


ROFL 20 year guarantee!

I completely agree, but was 40 years ago and wasn't my purchasing
decision. I didn't say that I thought it worked either - more than
likely the improvements came from clearing the soild around the house.

It is worth mentioning that Rentokil is still around and in the
property care business. and part of a multinational employing 90,000
people.



Coldseal windows gave 10/15/20 year g/tees and where
are they? Re-incarnated as Warmseal! Formally Stormseal, and before that (if
my memory serves well - Guardian Fenster). There should be legislation
against such practices.


I'm not saying that where such guarantees are necessary they shouldn't be
provided - but where a company blatantly builds up such a consumer base
based on such guarantees (and then "goes to the wall" because the
liabilities might overburden them) are allowed to re-incarnate themselves by
changing name with the same directors in charge!

This is a different issue and I don't think applied in the scenario I
described.

What you're describing happens daily on a smaller or larger scale.
The notion of limited companies is to create a separate legal entity
to the individual directors and to separate their finances.

It is very common for companies to overcommit themselves in all sorts
of ways, whether it be guarantees to customers or promises to
suppliers to pay them for goods and services. There's really no
difference - it;'s a commitment made and not kept.

If they exceed their resources and their financial facilities won't
back them, they go broke - simple as that.

If it is then determined that the directors have acted outside the
various Companies Acts, then they may forfeit their immunity from
liability and may also be disqualified from being a director. I know
of an instance where this has happened to somebody for ten years.

It's very easy to talk about legislating this and legislating that,
but hard to make work. There is an ever increasing volume .of
legislation for companies to deal with it as it is and those
determined to be dishonest or sail close to the wind will always be
able to do so.

Sometimes a business can fail for any number of legitimate issues
relating to trading conditions, where the directors are simply unable
to do anything apart from call in the receiver at the point that the
company would become insolvent.

If the reasons are genuine, the law complied with and no misfeasance,
is it reasonable to prevent the directors running a new business?

The difficulty comes with differentiating between something that
follows the letter of the law but is morally questionnable and
something that is less morally questionnable. It becomes a value
judgment.





Sorry for stealing the thread!

I'm not quite sure what guarantees and company legislation had to do
with the original question.




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Paul King" wrote in message
...
Andy Hall wrote:

My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
direct connection.

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.


ROFL 20 year guarantee! Coldseal windows gave 10/15/20 year g/tees and
where are they? Re-incarnated as Warmseal! Formally Stormseal, and before
that (if my memory serves well - Guardian Fenster). There should be
legislation against such practices.

In a previous discussion about DPC's and guarantees, I asked if *anyone* had
*ever* heard of any work being carried out under a DPC guarantee.

There were no responses.

Go figure...


David

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 21:35:04 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:08:21 GMT, (Jake) wrote:


I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake

My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
direct connection.

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.

The project as a whole certainly worked, although also consisted of
lowering the ground level outside and putting in some trenches filled
with gravel.

I suspect that it was the ground lowering that really did the job.

Andy, Thanks for the reply. Interesting... Well, if the above process
worked for you parents, perhaps it will work on my house. I might even
employ Rentokil! The guarantee would be worth having - even if only to
help sell the place...

Jake

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 09:41:04 GMT, (Jake) wrote:

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 21:35:04 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:08:21 GMT, (Jake) wrote:


I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake

My parents had this installed in a house in the sixties. It consisted
of an earth rod and then copper strip run into the wall and looped all
the way through at intervals. There was no electronics - just a
direct connection.

IIRC, it was installed by Rentokil, so not a fly by night operation,
20 year guarantee and so on.

The project as a whole certainly worked, although also consisted of
lowering the ground level outside and putting in some trenches filled
with gravel.

I suspect that it was the ground lowering that really did the job.

Andy, Thanks for the reply. Interesting... Well, if the above process
worked for you parents, perhaps it will work on my house. I might even
employ Rentokil! The guarantee would be worth having - even if only to
help sell the place...

Jake

I would suggest doing the ground checking/lowering stuff first as well
as airbricks because that costs little to nothing. As I say, I am
not at all convinced that the electro-osmotic stuff actually did
anything.





--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 20:08:21 GMT, (Jake) wrote:


I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Hi,

Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
from condensation.

Trouble is with these things, if they are done the same time as other
measures, the result is often wrongly attributed.

So do all the other things first, and if there is still excess damp
rising in the wall, then it might be worth a look, even so the cost
needs to be compared with other DPC measures.

It might only be worth it for walls that can't be fitted with a DPC,
like rubble infill walls or interior walls. If the supplier can give
some refs on where it has been used on important historic buildings as
part of a restoration, that counts for something.

Trouble is with genuine rising damp is that it can leave salts in the
wall that attract more damp.

cheers,
Pete.

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:07:53 +0000, Pete C
wrote:


Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
from condensation.

I'm sure it's not condensation, but it could conceivable be
penetration; I have never investigated the cavities to see if they are
full of debris. I guess that clearing the cavities of debris is high
on the list of things to try first, yes?

Trouble is with these things, if they are done the same time as other
measures, the result is often wrongly attributed.

So do all the other things first, and if there is still excess damp
rising in the wall, then it might be worth a look, even so the cost
needs to be compared with other DPC measures.

It might only be worth it for walls that can't be fitted with a DPC,
like rubble infill walls or interior walls. If the supplier can give
some refs on where it has been used on important historic buildings as
part of a restoration, that counts for something.

Trouble is with genuine rising damp is that it can leave salts in the
wall that attract more damp.

Thank you for the good suggestions..

Jake

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:13:25 GMT, (johnB) wrote:

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:07:53 +0000, Pete C
wrote:


Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
from condensation.

I'm sure it's not condensation, but it could conceivable be
penetration; I have never investigated the cavities to see if they are
full of debris. I guess that clearing the cavities of debris is high
on the list of things to try first, yes?

Have a look on Google Groups to read around on it a bit:

http://groups.google.com/groups?&q=cavity+bridging

Another good source of info would be the forums at
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk

In any case it would be useful to list all the possible causes of the
damp, find ways of proving/disproving them, then consider the
different solutions out there are and their cost/suitability etc.

cheers,
Pete.

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 12:34:25 +0000, Pete C
wrote:

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:13:25 GMT, (johnB) wrote:

On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 12:07:53 +0000, Pete C
wrote:


Probably best to get some core samples of the wall tested for salts
from rising damp first, as it won't help with penetrating damp or damp
from condensation.

I'm sure it's not condensation, but it could conceivable be
penetration; I have never investigated the cavities to see if they are
full of debris. I guess that clearing the cavities of debris is high
on the list of things to try first, yes?

Have a look on Google Groups to read around on it a bit:

http://groups.google.com/groups?&q=cavity+bridging

Another good source of info would be the forums at
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk

In any case it would be useful to list all the possible causes of the
damp, find ways of proving/disproving them, then consider the
different solutions out there are and their cost/suitability etc.

Pete, That sounds like a good systematic plan. Thanks. I think that
one reason why the demon damp is so scary and off-putting to buyers,
is that it's so little understood - even by many so-called pros...

JB

replying to Jake, Dougie wrote:
It was used in the 80 it's a electric current running around the house and you
had to put damp proof chemical in your Base cote as a backup it's not a good
damp product

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...rk-127423-.htm

On Tuesday, 23 November 2004 20:08:21 UTC, Jake wrote:
I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake

Came across this:-
http://www.heritage-house.org/electr...ive-fraud.html

Claims it's a complete fraud.

Too many variables to design a product that would be reliable.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Dougie" wrote in
message oups.com...
replying to Jake, Dougie wrote:
It was used in the 80 it's a electric current running around the house and
you
had to put damp proof chemical in your Base cote as a backup it's not a
good
damp product
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...rk-127423-.htm

On 6/3/2016 8:20 AM, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 22:01:00 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Tuesday, 23 November 2004 20:08:21 UTC, Jake wrote:
I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake

Came across this:-
http://www.heritage-house.org/electr...ive-fraud.html

Claims it's a complete fraud.

Electro-osmotic damp proofing is based on the quite fundamental and
well-understood science of electrophoresis, and in particular,
capilliary electrophoresis or electro-osmosis. See
http://tinyurl.com/jbqng4w and http://tinyurl.com/hhmaz69 , so it's
not hocus-pocus.

Whether it works in practice or as implemented by individual
companies, I don't know. Read more about electro-osmotic damp proofing
in the various articles here http://tinyurl.com/h4hrvdm

My mortgage provider required this in my 1780's rubble stone cottage in
the late 80's. It was certainly completely hopeless on the worst
affected wall, the solution to that turned out to be to hack off all the
rendering and repoint with lime mortar giving exposed stone indoors.
Previously, it had been wet at least to ceiling level. I now get traces
of efflorescence a few feet up, but certainly not enough to worry about.
The visible stone/mortar is bone dry. I have (ventilated) wainscotting
to about 3 feet.

An interesting side effect was some form of electrolytic corrosion on
damp earthed parts. I had a 13 amp socket in a standard hot galvanised
metal box in one dampish spot (earthed, of course) and this largely
corroded away in a few years. I used to have a radiator on the wet wall,
copper pipes so everything earthed. The mounting screws corroded away in
less than a year. I then mounted the brackets on 12 inch lengths of 8 mm
austenitic stainless steel studding and these seemed to survive. However
when I moved the radiator some years later, in association with going
back to bare stone I discovered that they had lost at least half the
material, they had become tapered pins reduced in diameter to about 1 mm
at the deepest point.

I think the wire is at about +5 volts, but I can't immediately check it
because it is all rather inaccessible. I believe the wire is titanium
(and it doesn't corrode).

On Fri, 03 Jun 2016 00:44:01 +0000, Dougie
wrote:

replying to Jake,

who posted on November 23, 2004, 3:08 pm

Dougie wrote:
etc
etc

On Friday, 3 June 2016 11:19:27 UTC+1, newshound wrote:
On 6/3/2016 8:20 AM, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 22:01:00 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Tuesday, 23 November 2004 20:08:21 UTC, Jake wrote:
I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake

Came across this:-
http://www.heritage-house.org/electr...ive-fraud.html

Claims it's a complete fraud.

Electro-osmotic damp proofing is based on the quite fundamental and
well-understood science of electrophoresis, and in particular,
capilliary electrophoresis or electro-osmosis. See
http://tinyurl.com/jbqng4w and http://tinyurl.com/hhmaz69 , so it's
not hocus-pocus.

Whether it works in practice or as implemented by individual
companies, I don't know. Read more about electro-osmotic damp proofing
in the various articles here http://tinyurl.com/h4hrvdm

My mortgage provider required this in my 1780's rubble stone cottage in
the late 80's. It was certainly completely hopeless on the worst
affected wall, the solution to that turned out to be to hack off all the
rendering and repoint with lime mortar giving exposed stone indoors.
Previously, it had been wet at least to ceiling level. I now get traces
of efflorescence a few feet up, but certainly not enough to worry about.
The visible stone/mortar is bone dry. I have (ventilated) wainscotting
to about 3 feet.

An interesting side effect was some form of electrolytic corrosion on
damp earthed parts. I had a 13 amp socket in a standard hot galvanised
metal box in one dampish spot (earthed, of course) and this largely
corroded away in a few years. I used to have a radiator on the wet wall,
copper pipes so everything earthed. The mounting screws corroded away in
less than a year. I then mounted the brackets on 12 inch lengths of 8 mm
austenitic stainless steel studding and these seemed to survive. However
when I moved the radiator some years later, in association with going
back to bare stone I discovered that they had lost at least half the
material, they had become tapered pins reduced in diameter to about 1 mm
at the deepest point.

I think the wire is at about +5 volts, but I can't immediately check it
because it is all rather inaccessible. I believe the wire is titanium
(and it doesn't corrode).

So it didn't work for you either?
All that happens is themetal rots away.

On 03/06/2016 01:44, Dougie wrote:
replying to Jake, Dougie wrote:
It was used in the 80 it's a electric current running around the house
and you
had to put damp proof chemical in your Base cote as a backup it's not a
good
damp product


Another homeownerhub user replying to a post made 12 years ago

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk