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Default electro osmotic damp proofing - does it work?

On 6/3/2016 8:20 AM, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 22:01:00 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

On Tuesday, 23 November 2004 20:08:21 UTC, Jake wrote:
I know that most damp problems are not actually "rising damp" (or at
least, that seems to be the concensus these days) - but all the clues
suggest that my own damp problem may be just that. I remember hearing
about electro osmotic damp proofing, using anodes and an electronic
control box etc.

Has anyone here ever tried this methid and did it work? I found this
web site which mentions the method:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects...risingdamp.htm

Cheers,

Jake


Came across this:-
http://www.heritage-house.org/electr...ive-fraud.html

Claims it's a complete fraud.


Electro-osmotic damp proofing is based on the quite fundamental and
well-understood science of electrophoresis, and in particular,
capilliary electrophoresis or electro-osmosis. See
http://tinyurl.com/jbqng4w and http://tinyurl.com/hhmaz69 , so it's
not hocus-pocus.

Whether it works in practice or as implemented by individual
companies, I don't know. Read more about electro-osmotic damp proofing
in the various articles here http://tinyurl.com/h4hrvdm

My mortgage provider required this in my 1780's rubble stone cottage in
the late 80's. It was certainly completely hopeless on the worst
affected wall, the solution to that turned out to be to hack off all the
rendering and repoint with lime mortar giving exposed stone indoors.
Previously, it had been wet at least to ceiling level. I now get traces
of efflorescence a few feet up, but certainly not enough to worry about.
The visible stone/mortar is bone dry. I have (ventilated) wainscotting
to about 3 feet.

An interesting side effect was some form of electrolytic corrosion on
damp earthed parts. I had a 13 amp socket in a standard hot galvanised
metal box in one dampish spot (earthed, of course) and this largely
corroded away in a few years. I used to have a radiator on the wet wall,
copper pipes so everything earthed. The mounting screws corroded away in
less than a year. I then mounted the brackets on 12 inch lengths of 8 mm
austenitic stainless steel studding and these seemed to survive. However
when I moved the radiator some years later, in association with going
back to bare stone I discovered that they had lost at least half the
material, they had become tapered pins reduced in diameter to about 1 mm
at the deepest point.

I think the wire is at about +5 volts, but I can't immediately check it
because it is all rather inaccessible. I believe the wire is titanium
(and it doesn't corrode).