I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

I take it you mean 'in the wall' if its a flush mounting you are after.

Sure as long as you do a pukka job that meets regulations - your biggest
issue might be if you need to extend the wires...

--
€œIt is not the truth of Marxism that explains the willingness of
intellectuals to believe it, but the power that it confers on
intellectuals, in their attempts to control the world. And since...it is
futile to reason someone out of a thing that he was not reasoned into,
we can conclude that Marxism owes its remarkable power to survive every
criticism to the fact that it is not a truth-directed but a
power-directed system of thought.€�
Sir Roger Scruton

On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:


I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?
Unless it has it's own seperate circuit back to the CU I would use a
switched fused connection unit ( similar to your proposed one but with
a fuse). Search on Screwfix for switched fused spur.

On 03/05/2021 10:37, Davidm wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:


I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?
Unless it has it's own seperate circuit back to the CU I would use a
switched fused connection unit ( similar to your proposed one but with
a fuse). Search on Screwfix for switched fused spur.




Might save quite a bit of money to use a switch that incorporates a time
switch.

Google immersion heater timer

On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

I would say no. 240V x 20A = 4,800W. I believe some immersion
heaters can draw up to 6kW. Even if yours doesn't, someone might
upgrade or replace it.

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

Is this "increasingly" without other changes (eg in the time the heater
is on or the temperature in the house)? If so it may be that you have a
bad connection in the switch where temporarily at least tightening the
screws might help. See under "High resistance connections" under "Types
of Fault" in

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Faults#Effects

And under "Inspection procedure" see the entry in the table for "High
resistance L/N".

But do please note the rubric to the table: "Power must be switched off
before any inspection takes place." And - with apologies if I'm
instructing in the sucking of eggs - in this case that's most
emphatically off at the consumer unit, not at the switch



--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 03/05/2021 12:45, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

I would say no. 240V x 20A = 4,800W. I believe some immersion
heaters can draw up to 6kW. Even if yours doesn't, someone might
upgrade or replace it.


If someone upgrades it then it's their responsibility to check the
switch and upgrade it if necessary. Ditto the cable and MCB/fuse.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

Usually like fish.


--
Adam

On Mon, 3 May 2021 13:14:37 +0100, Robin wrote:

On 03/05/2021 12:45, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

I would say no. 240V x 20A = 4,800W. I believe some immersion
heaters can draw up to 6kW. Even if yours doesn't, someone might
upgrade or replace it.

If someone upgrades it then it's their responsibility to check the
switch and upgrade it if necessary. Ditto the cable and MCB/fuse.

True, though I tend to follow the Brunel approach.

I would still suggest OP needs to check the power rating of the heater
unit before deciding whether a 20 amp switch is suitable.

On Mon, 3 May 2021 13:14:18 +0100, Robin wrote:

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

Is this "increasingly" without other changes (eg in the time the heater
is on or the temperature in the house)? If so it may be that you have a
bad connection in the switch where temporarily at least tightening the
screws might help. See under "High resistance connections" under "Types
of Fault" in

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...Faults#Effects

And under "Inspection procedure" see the entry in the table for "High
resistance L/N".

But do please note the rubric to the table: "Power must be switched off
before any inspection takes place." And - with apologies if I'm
instructing in the sucking of eggs - in this case that's most
emphatically off at the consumer unit, not at the switch

My screwdriver is rated at 1,000 Volts. I think the instruction
actually states 'Any appliance should be switched off and unplugged
before working on it.' It seems to me this does not preclude an
inspection provided suitable precautions are followed.

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?


IT will look silly on a metal backbox, they are intended to be sunk
into the wall. Just use a single surface-mount pattress box like
this -

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-gang...ite-30mm/11340

On 03/05/2021 13:37, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 13:14:37 +0100, Robin wrote:

On 03/05/2021 12:45, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

I would say no. 240V x 20A = 4,800W. I believe some immersion
heaters can draw up to 6kW. Even if yours doesn't, someone might
upgrade or replace it.

If someone upgrades it then it's their responsibility to check the
switch and upgrade it if necessary. Ditto the cable and MCB/fuse.

True, though I tend to follow the Brunel approach.

I would still suggest OP needs to check the power rating of the heater
unit before deciding whether a 20 amp switch is suitable.


If it's a standard 3kw immersion element then simply checking the
tightness of the connections inside the existing switch may be all
that is needed.

On 03/05/2021 12:45, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

I would say no. 240V x 20A = 4,800W. I believe some immersion
heaters can draw up to 6kW. Even if yours doesn't, someone might
upgrade or replace it.


I'd say that provided the OP is sufficiently experienced to check the
rating of the existing heater and know whether it is on a ring or radial
circuit (checking the fuse/mcb rating of the latter) then they are
comptent to replace the switch with a suitable modern one. My main worry
would be the state of the existing wiring and earthing if the
installation back to the consumer unit is also the same age (or older).

The old swith may have "cooked" the wires close to the terminals since
it has been overheating. This should be obvious with the insulation
discoloured, hard, and brittle but it should only extend a couple of
inches from the switch. Does the switch outlet have a relatively short
flex that goes straight to the immersion? If so, well worth replacing
that flex with modern, heat resistant flex. That should let the OP move
the switch slightly to remove any affected bit of the cable.

On 03/05/2021 14:02, Andrew wrote:
On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the
immersion heater in my airing cupboard.Â* It's a thin-ish one, mounted
on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it.Â* Am I allowed to
do that?


IT will look silly on a metal backbox, they are intended to be sunk
into the wall. Just use a single surface-mount pattress box like
this -

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-gang...ite-30mm/11340

Good point. Although a metal box designed for industrial installations
with conduit would be OK.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-2-ga...clad-box/37530

On 03/05/2021 14:45, newshound wrote:
On 03/05/2021 14:02, Andrew wrote:
On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the
immersion heater in my airing cupboard.Â* It's a thin-ish one, mounted
on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it.Â* Am I allowed to
do that?


IT will look silly on a metal backbox, they are intended to be sunk
into the wall. Just use a single surface-mount pattress box like
this -

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-gang...ite-30mm/11340


Good point. Although a metal box designed for industrial installations
with conduit would be OK.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-2-ga...clad-box/37530


Those boxes in ?incompatible with the switch that the OP was
asking about though. They are intended for industrial use.

On 03/05/2021 14:53, Andrew wrote:
On 03/05/2021 14:45, newshound wrote:
On 03/05/2021 14:02, Andrew wrote:
On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the
immersion heater in my airing cupboard.Â* It's a thin-ish one,
mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly
(I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA
, mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it.Â* Am I allowed
to do that?


IT will look silly on a metal backbox, they are intended to be sunk
into the wall. Just use a single surface-mount pattress box like
this -

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-gang...ite-30mm/11340


Good point. Although a metal box designed for industrial installations
with conduit would be OK.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-2-ga...clad-box/37530


Those boxes in ?incompatible with the switch that the OP was
asking about though. They are intended for industrial use.

I think you will find the outside dimensions as well as the corner radii
do match up, especially since this is an MK switch.

On Mon, 3 May 2021 14:53:42 +0100, Andrew
wrote:

On 03/05/2021 14:45, newshound wrote:
On 03/05/2021 14:02, Andrew wrote:
On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the
immersion heater in my airing cupboard.* It's a thin-ish one, mounted
on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it.* Am I allowed to
do that?


IT will look silly on a metal backbox, they are intended to be sunk
into the wall. Just use a single surface-mount pattress box like
this -

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-gang...ite-30mm/11340


Good point. Although a metal box designed for industrial installations
with conduit would be OK.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-2-ga...clad-box/37530

Those boxes in ?incompatible with the switch that the OP was
asking about though. They are intended for industrial use.

Compatible switch available:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-metalc...-inserts/851jr

On 03/05/2021 14:04, Andrew wrote:

If it's a standard 3kw immersion element then simply checking the
tightness of the connections inside the existing switch may be all
that is needed.

Except that the OP described it as "a thin-ish one, mounted on the
wooden door frame" which sounds very much like a light switch which
would only be good for 6 amps!

Personally as long as the wiring is sound and no matter what the law may
say, I'd do it now before the existing one causes a fire by the sound of it!


However the one thing is, if its really that old then the wiring could be as
well and the heating may have hastened its demise, so you may open it and
find a major rewiring job to do.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Jedzi" wrote in message
...

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion
heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden
door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do
that?

Yes but I'd certainly put in a fused one to stop the unwary.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Robin" wrote in message
...
On 03/05/2021 12:45, Scott wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2021 01:38:21 -0700 (PDT), Jedzi
wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion
heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the
wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do
that?

I would say no. 240V x 20A = 4,800W. I believe some immersion
heaters can draw up to 6kW. Even if yours doesn't, someone might
upgrade or replace it.


If someone upgrades it then it's their responsibility to check the switch
and upgrade it if necessary. Ditto the cable and MCB/fuse.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?


Yes but check the rating (wattage) of the immersion heater to ensure it
would not exceed 20 amps.

On 03/05/2021 16:29, Mike Clarke wrote:
On 03/05/2021 14:04, Andrew wrote:

If it's a standard 3kw immersion element then simply checking the
tightness of the connections inside the existing switch may be all
that is needed.

Except that the OP described it as "a thin-ish one, mounted on the
wooden door frame" which sounds very much like a light switch which
would only be good for 6 amps!


Could be an old Bakelite 20A switch. They weren't as wide as modern
accessories; they were common for immersion tanks.

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

Thanks all for the comments. Responses to some of the points raised:
- Yep, its a fishy type smell. I had the same smell years ago in a bathroom elsewhere and it turned out to be a very old light fitting.
- The whole lot is going to be replaced in about a years time and the rest of the boiler / airing cupboard is so old that aesthetics arent a consideration. Im an average DIYer so its a case of doing it safely / not driving a coach & horses through regs.
- The immersion heater & tank were replaced about 10 years ago. The switch itself is much older, probably at least 40 years old. Cabling into the switch from elsewhere is original. Cable from the switch to the immersion heater is 10 years old.
- The heater itself is 3kw and the circuit is 20A
- Ive put a picture of the switch and the consumer unit he https://bit.ly/3vx3j4S
- My thinking is to surface mount the new switch on the wall to one side. The length of the cables wont be an issue.
- Ive enough slack to take the 10cms or so closest to the switch of the original cable off.

On Mon, 3 May 2021 16:34:34 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Yes but I'd certainly put in a fused one to stop the unwary.
Brian

What fuse would you fit for an immersion heater though? It would need
to be more than 13 amps (or would it?). .

Jack Harry Teesdale wrote:
On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion
heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?


Yes but check the rating (wattage) of the immersion heater to ensure it
would not exceed 20 amps.


Just checked the first dozen immersion heater elements on Screwfix and
theyre all 3kW.

Maybe higher wattage ones do exist but Ive never come across one. Isnt
more common for some cylinders to have 2x3kW elements?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Scott wrote:
On 3 May 2021 16:11:20 GMT, Tim+ wrote:

Jack Harry Teesdale wrote:
On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion
heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

Yes but check the rating (wattage) of the immersion heater to ensure it
would not exceed 20 amps.

Just checked the first dozen immersion heater elements on Screwfix and
theyÂ’re all 3kW.

Maybe higher wattage ones do exist but IÂ’ve never come across one. IsnÂ’t
more common for some cylinders to have 2x3kW elements?

Maybe OP does have two. I would be checking and not making
assumptions.


Arent two usually switched separately though?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Andy Burns wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

ust checked the first dozen immersion heater elements on Screwfix and
theyre all 3kW.

Maybe higher wattage ones do exist but Ive never come across one.

Industrial vs domestic.


Well the OP didnt hint in any way that this was an industrial unit so I
think its unlikely to be more than 3kW.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 3 May 2021 16:57:51 GMT, Tim+ wrote:

Scott wrote:
On 3 May 2021 16:11:20 GMT, Tim+ wrote:

Jack Harry Teesdale wrote:
On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion
heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I
think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA ,
mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?

Yes but check the rating (wattage) of the immersion heater to ensure it
would not exceed 20 amps.

Just checked the first dozen immersion heater elements on Screwfix and
they?re all 3kW.

Maybe higher wattage ones do exist but I?ve never come across one. Isn?t
more common for some cylinders to have 2x3kW elements?

Maybe OP does have two. I would be checking and not making
assumptions.

Aren’t two usually switched separately though?

I refer to my previous answer, m'lud.

On Mon, 3 May 2021 17:21:43 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Scott wrote:

What fuse would you fit for an immersion heater though? It would need
to be more than 13 amps (or would it?).

No, a 3kW immersion needs no bigger fuse than a 3kW kettle.

I realise that but I just thought it would be running at the top end
of the range for extended periods whereas a kettle is only for
intermittent use. I thought some headroom would be needed but I may
be completely wrong.

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

I want to replace it with a switch like this https://bit.ly/336ClVA , mounted in a steel back box, on the wall next to it. Am I allowed to do that?



Before you buy anything have a look at the back of the switch and see
how much "slack" cable there is. If something is now burning you may
find that the cable is charred and you will need to cut it back to a
good section of cable. If there isn't enough slack cable to pull through
you may/will have to consider other options.


I would recommend using the deepest back box that you can fit.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 03/05/2021 17:11, Tim+ wrote:


Maybe higher wattage ones do exist but Ive never come across one. Isnt
more common for some cylinders to have 2x3kW elements?

I once had a dual element heater in my tank 3kW and 3kW. One was a long
element and the other a very short element. The idea was that the short
element was used to produce a small amount of hot water quickly at the
top of the tank whereas the longer element for a tank full of hot water.
From memory, there were also two thermostats the length of which
matched the elements.

It was controlled with a dual switch - on/off and a changeover
short/long element. Both elements were NOT on at the same time although
I suppose that someone could wire them in parallel with a single on/off
switch.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-Mark.../dp/B00F62XWHU


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Mon, 3 May 2021 13:30:17 +0100, ARW wrote:

On 03/05/2021 09:38, Jedzi wrote:

I've got an ancient, maybe 40 or 50 years old, switch for the immersion heater in my airing cupboard. It's a thin-ish one, mounted on the wooden door frame.

Increasingly, it gets hot in use and has started to smell slightly (I think it's a heated plastic type smell).

Usually like fish.

That's melamine (amine) and often indicates a loose connection.
High-temperature connector block (pale yellowish) is made of it.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 04/05/2021 05:57, alan_m wrote:
If there isn't enough slack cable to pull through you may/will have to
consider other options.

I am not sure how 'legal' it is but I prefer on balance to extend mains
wires bu strippng, twisting and soldering the conductors and using
heatshrink tubing on live and neutral, and also an overall heatshrink
tube over the whole lot...

I tried crimping, and if you have the right wires crimp and tool its
fine, but do you?


--
€œThose who can make you believe absurdities, can make you commit
atrocities.€�

€• Voltaire, Questions sur les Miracles Ã* M. Claparede, Professeur de
Théologie Ã* Genève, par un Proposant: Ou Extrait de Diverses Lettres de
M. de Voltaire

On 03/05/2021 17:57, Tim+ wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

ust checked the first dozen immersion heater elements on Screwfix and
theyre all 3kW.

Maybe higher wattage ones do exist but Ive never come across one.

Industrial vs domestic.


Well the OP didnt hint in any way that this was an industrial unit so I
think its unlikely to be more than 3kW.

Tim


It's on its own 20amp MCB according to the photo.

Andrew wrote:
On 03/05/2021 17:57, Tim+ wrote:
Andy Burns wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

ust checked the first dozen immersion heater elements on Screwfix and
theyre all 3kW.

Maybe higher wattage ones do exist but Ive never come across one.

Industrial vs domestic.


Well the OP didnt hint in any way that this was an industrial unit so I
think its unlikely to be more than 3kW.

Tim


It's on its own 20amp MCB according to the photo.


Lets not forget that the OP also stated €œ The heater itself is 3kw and the
circuit is 20A €œ.


Now he *could* be mistaken, but what readily available immersion heater
element could run from a 20A mcb? Are 4.8kW elements common?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On 04/05/2021 12:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 05:57, alan_m wrote:
If there isn't enough slack cable to pull through you may/will have to
consider other options.

I am not sure how 'legal' it is but I prefer on balance to extend mains
wires bu strippng, twisting andÂ* soldering the conductors and using
heatshrink tubing on live and neutral, and also an overall heatshrink
tube over the whole lot...

I tried crimping, and if you have the right wires crimp and tool its
fine, but do you?


Also, I can solder in tighter spaces than I can crimp.

Tim+ wrote:

Are 4.8kW elements common?

Or were they 40-50 years ago?

On 04/05/2021 21:25, newshound wrote:
On 04/05/2021 12:42, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 04/05/2021 05:57, alan_m wrote:
If there isn't enough slack cable to pull through you may/will have
to consider other options.

I am not sure how 'legal' it is but I prefer on balance to extend
mains wires bu strippng, twisting andÂ* soldering the conductors and
using heatshrink tubing on live and neutral, and also an overall
heatshrink tube over the whole lot...

I tried crimping, and if you have the right wires crimp and tool its
fine, but do you?


Also, I can solder in tighter spaces than I can crimp.

yes.

--
€œThose who can make you believe absurdities, can make you commit
atrocities.€�

€• Voltaire, Questions sur les Miracles Ã* M. Claparede, Professeur de
Théologie Ã* Genève, par un Proposant: Ou Extrait de Diverses Lettres de
M. de Voltaire