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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Immersion heater and time switch query.
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Chris Hogg wrote: Our immersion heater has just stopped working. The heater itself is not open-circuit, and the thermostat appears to be working. It's a fairly old immersion, so there's no over-temperature or backup thermostat. Investigation suggests that the relay in the electronic time switch has failed, because although there's a click when it comes on, there are no or only momentary volts on the output terminals of the timer. It's rated at 3kW. The resistance of the immersion heater itself is 12.8 ohms, measured with a simple electronic multimeter. Some simple maths suggests that with 240 volts applied, a resistive load of this amount would draw 18.75 amps, and be dissipating 4.5kW, i.e. half as much again as the rating of the time switch, even though the cover-cap on the immersion clearly says it's a 3kW immersion. If my measurements and calculations are correct, it would explain why the relay on the time switch has failed. But do/did 4.5kW immersion heaters exist, or could the resistance have fallen over time (seems unlikely to me, though)? If it's genuinely a 4.5kW heater, are time switches available rated at that wattage? I've only ever seen 3kW ones. Fortunately, we can also heat the water with gas (propane) via a Vaillant boiler, but off-peak electricity is cheaper. Don't forget that the reistance of the increases when it gets hot. So although it may take a high initial current, that won't last long and it probably draws the right steady-state current for 3kW (and the accuracy of your resistance meter may not be wonderful). -- Cheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! |
#2
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Immersion heater and time switch query.
If the thermostat is removable you can drop in a safety/main
thermostat such as a Sunvic (just get the right length). If the timer has failed, Sangamo do a 1-gang 16A version with push- button 30min-1hr-2hr boost on the front often cheap on Ebay UK (although it only has 7hr or some such low figure battery backup). Better than the cheapies anyway re relay quality - I've found the electromechanical type do not like "juttering powercuts" for some reason. If the element has gone, check with an Insulation Resistance meter not just plain resistance. If it is hovering around 1.5-2.1Megohms the element is on its way out. Best way of removing is a proper box spanner and tighten/loosen, combined with a fine screwdriver to "chop out" the gasket all the way around which once partly gone will permit removal of the element. Fit a isolation valves whilst in there - but not before any vent pipe for obvious reasons (element running, vent pipe closed off, things can get the wrong kind of "exciting"). |
#3
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Immersion heater and time switch query.
In article , Roger Mills
writes Don't forget that the reistance of the increases when it gets hot. So although it may take a high initial current, that won't last long and it probably draws the right steady-state current for 3kW (and the accuracy of your resistance meter may not be wonderful). For water heating I think resistance variation will be small. I've just measured the cold resistance of a spare 3kW element and although it is a little high at 21.4ohms it looks as if the o/p has a duff element _or_ the meter is suspect, measuring a test resistor will check it out. -- fred BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs |
#4
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Immersion heater and time switch query.
In article ,
fred writes: In article , Roger Mills writes Don't forget that the reistance of the increases when it gets hot. So although it may take a high initial current, that won't last long and it probably draws the right steady-state current for 3kW (and the accuracy of your resistance meter may not be wonderful). For water heating I think resistance variation will be small. I've just measured the cold resistance of a spare 3kW element and although it is a little high at 21.4ohms it looks as if the o/p has a duff element _or_ the meter is suspect, measuring a test resistor will check it out. Heating wires are normally alloys such as nichrome, and the change in resistance with changing temperature is tiny compared with that of metalic elements such as tungsten, copper, aluminium, etc. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
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