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Default De-soldering copper pipe

As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?

Tim


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Default De-soldering copper pipe

On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?


Desolder braid but I wouldn't like to bet on it working well enough.

Can you not cut something to get a clean piece of undamaged pipe?

I hate plumbing! Whenever things go wrong water gets everywhere.

Electricity doesn't leak anything like as much but if it does it kills!

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Default De-soldering copper pipe

On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?


Just wipe the hot pipe with a dry cloth or failing that a paper kitchen
towel.

If the olive goes on, I'm sure it will cut through any film of solder.
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Default De-soldering copper pipe

On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?

Tim


blowlamp and a dry cloth may get enough off to fit an olive.
if not carry on with an abarasive

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Default De-soldering copper pipe


Martin Brown wrote:

Tim+ wrote:

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of
my olive not seating/sealing properly?


Desolder braid but I wouldn't like to bet on it working well enough.


just hot it up with the blowtorch and wipe the molten solder off with
some wire wool.



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Tim+ pretended :
To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?


Wrap the one you do not want to disturb in wet tissue and apply the
flame only to the other fitting. Have a spray bottle of water handy, to
also cool it down. Stop the heat as soon as it moves.

Course emery cloth will remove the solder from the pipe.
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Default De-soldering copper pipe

On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?

Tim



Why not take the copper pipe out of the fitting 1 inch away, and then
replace it with a new bit? The other end of the new bit will work well
with a compression fitting.

It is important that there is no water anywhere near a soldered fitting
that you want to get apart.


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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?

Tim


blowlamp and a dry cloth may get enough off to fit an olive.
if not carry on with an abarasive


No need to kill a mole for a bit of moleskin then? ;-)

(Vague memories of that being used for wiped joints).

Tim
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Default De-soldering copper pipe

On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?

Tim



Wrap a strip of emery cloth around it and sand it off with the
appropriate wrist action

If you have a solder drip on one side of the pipe a first use a flat
needle file to remove it.

You only need to take enough solder off so that the olive slides on the
pipe.

Is an inch of pipe long enough to get a compression fitting on and not
leave the olive hanging on at the very end of the pipe?

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On 27/03/2021 20:12, Michael Chare wrote:

It is important that there is no water anywhere near a soldered fitting
that you want to get apart.


A little water when trying to get a fitting off is OK but _NOT_ when
trying to resolder.


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Tim+ wrote:

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

It seems to me that that chances of unsoldering one joint an inch away
from another connected by 22mm copper pipe are very slight! Either
you won't unsolder one or you will unsolder both. Copper is a very
good conductor of heat.

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On Saturday, 27 March 2021 at 21:18:05 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

It seems to me that that chances of unsoldering one joint an inch away
from another connected by 22mm copper pipe are very slight! Either
you won't unsolder one or you will unsolder both. Copper is a very
good conductor of heat.

--
Chris Green
·

+1

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Default De-soldering copper pipe

On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?


Heat and wipe with a moleskin - as used for wiping joint in lead pipes.

I have in the past just wiped with a cloth, getting the solder layer
very thin and then abrading with emery paper.
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On 27/03/2021 20:26, Tim+ wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?

Tim


blowlamp and a dry cloth may get enough off to fit an olive.
if not carry on with an abarasive


No need to kill a mole for a bit of moleskin then? ;-)

(Vague memories of that being used for wiped joints).


I should have read further before replying to the OP.
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Default De-soldering copper pipe

On 27/03/2021 19:04, Tim+ wrote:

As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).


If you use a torch with a small directional flame it ought not be a
problem.

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?


Apply a bit of flux and heat the fitting. Use grips to give it a twist
from time to time until it melts and moves, pull off twisting back and
fourth. Use a damp rag folded over several times into a pad, to quicky
to wipe any solder off the pipe.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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\================================================= ================/


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I really don't think something that close will be able to be cleaned and not
affect the next one if you get my drift. The copper will need to be hot to
clean it, but in the end it might all be better to replace rather than
expect a pipe that has been soldered to seal in a compression fitting.
Brian

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"Tim+" wrote in message
...
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to remove
a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one instead.

To complicate matters there's another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really don't want to disturb (so may end up packing it in
ice).

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my olive
not seating/sealing properly?

Tim


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Brian Gaff (Sofa) pretended :
The copper will need to be hot to clean it, but in the end it might all be
better to replace rather than expect a pipe that has been soldered to seal in
a compression fitting.


It will be fine - The softer lead (than the copper) still on the pipe,
will make easier for olive to form a seal on the pipe.
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In article
,
Tim+ wrote:
As part of my insane quest to overcomplicate my CH system I need to
remove a 22mm right angled soldered fitting to fit a compression one
instead.


To complicate matters there‘s another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really don‘t want to disturb (so may end up packing it in
ice).


If you're using a sensible blow lamp, it won't disturb a nearby fitting.
But a spare tile makes a decent free heat shield.

Any tips on how to cleanly remove solder to eliminate the risk of my
olive not seating/sealing properly?


Wipe it with a damp cloth while hot enough for the solder to flow. After
that wire wool if the olive won't fit.

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On 28/03/2021 09:54, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
I really don't think something that close will be able to be cleaned and not
affect the next one if you get my drift. The copper will need to be hot to
clean it, but in the end it might all be better to replace rather than
expect a pipe that has been soldered to seal in a compression fitting.


I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the pipe
of any excess solder.

If the olive can go on the pipe, then sufficient solder has been
removed. It will bite through the thin film of solder and give a good
seal. That has been my experience.

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Fredxx wrote:

I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the pipe
of any excess solder.


I don't see that part of the operation being a problem.

But I do tend to think that by the time you've got enough heat into a
22mm elbow that another solder fitting an inch a way is likely to suffer
and need replacing too.



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On 28/03/2021 15:08, Fredxx wrote:
On 28/03/2021 09:54, Brian Gaff (Sofa) wrote:
I really don't think something that close will be able to be cleaned
and not
affect the next one if you get my drift. The copper will need to be
hot to
clean it, but in the end it might all be better to replace rather than
expect a pipe that has been soldered to seal in a compression fitting.


I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the pipe
of any excess solder.

If the olive can go on the pipe, then sufficient solder has been
removed. It will bite through the thin film of solder and give a good
seal. That has been my experience.


+1

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On 28/03/2021 15:23, Andy Burns wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the
pipe of any excess solder.


I don't see that part of the operation being a problem.

But I do tend to think that by the time you've got enough heat into a
22mm elbow that another solder fitting an inch a way is likely to suffer
and need replacing too.


That is the danger. In my experience removing a soldered joint often
requires (or is given) a lot more heat, and for longer, than soldering
it in the first place. This may have partially melted the solder in the
connection an inch away now leaving voids in an imperfect soldered joint.

As I mentioned before, is 1 inch enough for a reliable compression
fitting? The OP would have to ensure that the pipe is fully inserted
into the fitting as the nut as it is tightened. A quick check on a gash
compression fitting in my spares box requires a total of around 17mm of
pipe (for insertion into the fitting and the width of the olive).

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On 28/03/2021 16:40, alan_m wrote:
On 28/03/2021 15:23, Andy Burns wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the
pipe of any excess solder.


I don't see that part of the operation being a problem.

But I do tend to think that by the time you've got enough heat into a
22mm elbow that another solder fitting an inch a way is likely to
suffer and need replacing too.


That is the danger. In my experience removing a soldered joint often
requires (or is given) a lot more heat, and for longer, than soldering
it in the first place. This may have partially melted the solder in the
connection an inch away now leaving voids in an imperfect soldered joint.

As I mentioned before, is 1 inch enough for a reliable compression
fitting?Â* The OP would have to ensure that the pipe is fully inserted
into the fitting as the nut as it is tightened. A quick check on a gash
compression fitting in my spares box requires a total of around 17mm of
pipe (for insertion into the fitting and the width of the olive).


Is the lenght not 1" + however much has gone into the solder fitting
which is being removed?

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On 28/03/2021 15:23, Andy Burns wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the
pipe of any excess solder.


I don't see that part of the operation being a problem.

But I do tend to think that by the time you've got enough heat into a
22mm elbow that another solder fitting an inch a way is likely to suffer
and need replacing too.

you can reflow that one once the compression fitting is on

--
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and understanding".

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On 28/03/2021 15:23, Andy Burns wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the
pipe of any excess solder.


I don't see that part of the operation being a problem.

But I do tend to think that by the time you've got enough heat into a
22mm elbow that another solder fitting an inch a way is likely to suffer
and need replacing too.


It is always difficult to just the temperature where you're trying to
get a fitting apart. At a pinch I guess you could use a wet rag around a
fitting to make it stay put.



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Andy Burns wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the pipe
of any excess solder.


I don't see that part of the operation being a problem.

But I do tend to think that by the time you've got enough heat into a
22mm elbow that another solder fitting an inch a way is likely to suffer
and need replacing too.


The next one is a T-piece in a long vertical length of pipe so doing
anything with that will be a bit of a ball-ache. Really dont want to have
to mess with it (unless I absolutely have to).

Tim



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Michael Chare wrote:
On 28/03/2021 16:40, alan_m wrote:
On 28/03/2021 15:23, Andy Burns wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

I disagree.

When the pipe is hot enough it is quite straightforward to wipe the
pipe of any excess solder.

I don't see that part of the operation being a problem.

But I do tend to think that by the time you've got enough heat into a
22mm elbow that another solder fitting an inch a way is likely to
suffer and need replacing too.


That is the danger. In my experience removing a soldered joint often
requires (or is given) a lot more heat, and for longer, than soldering
it in the first place. This may have partially melted the solder in the
connection an inch away now leaving voids in an imperfect soldered joint.

As I mentioned before, is 1 inch enough for a reliable compression
fitting?Â* The OP would have to ensure that the pipe is fully inserted
into the fitting as the nut as it is tightened. A quick check on a gash
compression fitting in my spares box requires a total of around 17mm of
pipe (for insertion into the fitting and the width of the olive).


Is the lenght not 1" + however much has gone into the solder fitting
which is being removed?


Indeed. The stump of pipe will be plenty long enough.

Tim


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On 28/03/2021 18:55, Tim+ wrote:


The next one is a T-piece in a long vertical length of pipe so doing
anything with that will be a bit of a ball-ache. Really dont want to have
to mess with it (unless I absolutely have to).


Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and cut out a section of pipe
on one side of the T fitting, then you have 3 bits to neatly replace, a
straight join, a length of pipe and the T.


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On 27/03/2021 23:32, Tricky Dicky wrote:
On Saturday, 27 March 2021 at 21:18:05 UTC, Chris Green wrote:
Tim+ wrote:

To complicate matters theres another soldered fitting just over an inch
away that I really dont want to disturb (so may end up packing it in ice).

It seems to me that that chances of unsoldering one joint an inch away
from another connected by 22mm copper pipe are very slight! Either
you won't unsolder one or you will unsolder both. Copper is a very
good conductor of heat.

--
Chris Green
·

+1


Must admit when I first read that I assumed it meant on an adjacent
pipe. However if it is on the same pipe, then yup that will be harder.

(although in that case I would desolder the one further up and add a new
stub of pipe to come out in the position required)


--
Cheers,

John.

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Fredxx brought next idea :
It is always difficult to just the temperature where you're trying to get a
fitting apart. At a pinch I guess you could use a wet rag around a fitting to
make it stay put.


That has always worked for me - wet tissue, rag or whatever. It doesn't
need much evaporation to keep solder from melting.


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Harry Bloomfield, Esq. wrote:
Fredxx brought next idea :
It is always difficult to just the temperature where you're trying to get a
fitting apart. At a pinch I guess you could use a wet rag around a fitting to
make it stay put.


That has always worked for me - wet tissue, rag or whatever. It doesn't
need much evaporation to keep solder from melting.


I can now confirm that that did indeed work. Not as hard as I thought it
would be.

Tim

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In article
,
Tim+ wrote:
Harry Bloomfield, Esq. wrote:
Fredxx brought next idea :
It is always difficult to just the temperature where you're trying to get a
fitting apart. At a pinch I guess you could use a wet rag around a fitting to
make it stay put.


That has always worked for me - wet tissue, rag or whatever. It doesn't
need much evaporation to keep solder from melting.


I can now confirm that that did indeed work. Not as hard as I thought it
would be.


Tim


Just wondering why you'd change from something neat looking that never
leaks to something ugly that often does?

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