I'm about to lose an existing double-gang wall socket behind a new wardrobe,
and would like to run a plugged-in extension lead from it to a new
surface-mounted socket just beside the wardrobe.

What little exposed flex there will be between the edge of the wardrobe and
the new surface box can be trunked in, so I'm not concerned about exposing
it to potential damage.

I've been trying to find out if there's a surface-mount box (single-gang
would do) with less protrusion than the usual 25mm (purely because it would
look less clunky).

And also if it's possible to get a conventional-type three-pin plug with
less depth than the standard (since there's not going to be much clearance
behind the wardrobe).

I've looked in the obvious places but without luck; I wonder if I'm using
the wrong search terms. Any pointers in the right direction would be very
welcome. Thanks.

On Thu, 04 Mar 2021 16:14:36 +0000, Bert Coules wrote:

I'm about to lose an existing double-gang wall socket behind a new
wardrobe,
and would like to run a plugged-in extension lead from it to a new
surface-mounted socket just beside the wardrobe.

What little exposed flex there will be between the edge of the wardrobe
and the new surface box can be trunked in, so I'm not concerned about
exposing it to potential damage.

I've been trying to find out if there's a surface-mount box (single-gang
would do) with less protrusion than the usual 25mm (purely because it
would look less clunky).

And also if it's possible to get a conventional-type three-pin plug with
less depth than the standard (since there's not going to be much
clearance behind the wardrobe).

I've looked in the obvious places but without luck; I wonder if I'm
using the wrong search terms. Any pointers in the right direction would
be very welcome. Thanks.

I cut a hole in the back panel of the wardrobe so I could maintain access
to the switches.

"jon" wrote:

I cut a hole in the back panel of the wardrobe so I could maintain access
to the switches.

I thought about that, but I'd still need to run to a more accessible socket.
If a non-switched socket can be fitted to a shallower-than-normal box I'd
happily use one, but is that possible? I've seen 16mm boxes but my
impression is that they're only deep enough for (say) a light switch.

On 04/03/2021 16:14, Bert Coules wrote:
I'm about to lose an existing double-gang wall socket behind a new wardrobe,
and would like to run a plugged-in extension lead from it to a new
surface-mounted socket just beside the wardrobe.

What little exposed flex there will be between the edge of the wardrobe and
the new surface box can be trunked in, so I'm not concerned about exposing
it to potential damage.

I've been trying to find out if there's a surface-mount box (single-gang
would do) with less protrusion than the usual 25mm (purely because it would
look less clunky).

And also if it's possible to get a conventional-type three-pin plug with
less depth than the standard (since there's not going to be much clearance
behind the wardrobe).

I've looked in the obvious places but without luck; I wonder if I'm using
the wrong search terms. Any pointers in the right direction would be very
welcome. Thanks.

How about using a 13A fused spur with flex outlet? It might be possible
to take the flex to an extension socket (assuming it's allowed under
regulations). No plug needed.

--

Jeff

On 04/03/2021 16:14, Bert Coules wrote:
I'm about to lose an existing double-gang wall socket behind a new
wardrobe, and would like to run a plugged-in extension lead from it to a
new surface-mounted socket just beside the wardrobe.

What little exposed flex there will be between the edge of the wardrobe
and the new surface box can be trunked in, so I'm not concerned about
exposing it to potential damage.

I've been trying to find out if there's a surface-mount box (single-gang
would do) with less protrusion than the usual 25mm (purely because it
would look less clunky).

And also if it's possible to get a conventional-type three-pin plug with
less depth than the standard (since there's not going to be much
clearance behind the wardrobe).

I've looked in the obvious places but without luck; I wonder if I'm
using the wrong search terms.Â* Any pointers in the right direction would
be very welcome. Thanks.

You can get 16mm boxes, but I don't think you'd get a socket in one.

I've never seen a low profile plug, but what's stopping you putting a
cutout in one edge of the existing socket to run a spur directly from
the terminals to the new one? A bit of a bodge, but very practical.

Jeff Layman wrote:
How about using a 13A fused spur with flex outlet? It might be possible
to take the flex to an extension socket (assuming it's allowed under
regulations). No plug needed.

+1

Any socket is going to be at least as deep as the pins on the plug, so
there's a limit to how slim you can be. Using a fused spur avoids the depth
of both the pins on the plug and the screw terminals inside the plug.

(Can you fit a fused spur inside a 16mm box?)

Theo

Jeff Layman wrote:

How about using a 13A fused spur with flex outlet? It might be possible to
take the flex to an extension socket (assuming it's allowed under
regulations). No plug needed.

That's a nice idea. But the soon-to-be-hidden switched socket is a double;
is it possible to replace that with a single fixed spur?

Steve Walker wrote:

I've never seen a low profile plug...

Annoyingly, I used to have one (and possibly several) branded, of all
things, "BBC" - possibly dating from the time when the Corporation did
actually have all manner of equipment manufactured to its own specs.

...but what's stopping you putting a cutout in one edge of the existing
socket
to run a spur directly from the terminals to the
new one? A bit of a bodge, but very practical.

The main thing stopping me is that it would indeed be a bit of a bodge
(albeit one safely hidden away)...

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
Steve Walker wrote:

I've never seen a low profile plug...

Annoyingly, I used to have one (and possibly several) branded, of all
things, "BBC" - possibly dating from the time when the Corporation did
actually have all manner of equipment manufactured to its own specs.

Yes, I think I've got one or two of those, but they fell out of favour. If
you used a decent thickness of mains cable the retaining screw, not going
right down, punched hole in the top cover.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 04/03/2021 16:56, Bert Coules wrote:
Jeff Layman wrote:

How about using a 13A fused spur with flex outlet? It might be
possible to take the flex to an extension socket (assuming it's
allowed under regulations). No plug needed.

That's a nice idea.Â* But the soon-to-be-hidden switched socket is a
double; is it possible to replace that with a single fixed spur?



It is if you use modular parts

But why not just do away with the double socket, joint through with wago
connectors and run a bit of 2.5mm T&E to the new socket and fit a 2g
blanking plate over the old socket?

--
Adam

ARW wrote:

But why not just do away with the double socket, joint through with wago
connectors and run a bit of 2.5mm T&E to the new socket and fit a 2g
blanking plate over the old socket?

That's probably the most straightforward suggestion so far; thanks, Adam.

In article , Bert Coules
wrote:
ARW wrote:

But why not just do away with the double socket, joint through with
wago connectors and run a bit of 2.5mm T&E to the new socket and fit a
2g blanking plate over the old socket?

That's probably the most straightforward suggestion so far; thanks, Adam.

I did soemthing like that when we moved into this house, so we could put a
piano against one wall. Didn't use WAGOs since they weren't aroungb in 1977

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

On 04/03/2021 16:14, Bert Coules wrote:
I'm about to lose an existing double-gang wall socket behind a new
wardrobe, and would like to run a plugged-in extension lead from it to a
new surface-mounted socket just beside the wardrobe.

What little exposed flex there will be between the edge of the wardrobe
and the new surface box can be trunked in, so I'm not concerned about
exposing it to potential damage.

I've been trying to find out if there's a surface-mount box (single-gang
would do) with less protrusion than the usual 25mm (purely because it
would look less clunky).

And also if it's possible to get a conventional-type three-pin plug with
less depth than the standard (since there's not going to be much
clearance behind the wardrobe).

I've looked in the obvious places but without luck; I wonder if I'm
using the wrong search terms.Â* Any pointers in the right direction would
be very welcome. Thanks.

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket and
sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

On 04/03/2021 18:05, Bert Coules wrote:
ARW wrote:

But why not just do away with the double socket, joint through with
wago connectors and run a bit of 2.5mm T&E to the new socket and fit a
2g blanking plate over the old socket?

That's probably the most straightforward suggestion so far; thanks, Adam.
I did exactly the same thing today as part of the round tuit to finish
the utility room. The washing machine socket would have been behind the
sink so a couple of horizontal cuts with a multi tool, some SDS bashing,
some out of date bonding and a little bit of "easy fill" - 2 hours from
start to end, and a little painting tomorrow.

In article ,
Bert Coules wrote:
Jeff Layman wrote:

How about using a 13A fused spur with flex outlet? It might be possible to
take the flex to an extension socket (assuming it's allowed under
regulations). No plug needed.

That's a nice idea. But the soon-to-be-hidden switched socket is a double;
is it possible to replace that with a single fixed spur?

Could you make one up using grid components?

--
*A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Fredxx wrote:

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket and
sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated room.

Thanks for the thought.

On 04/03/2021 23:47, Bert Coules wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket and
sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated room.

Thanks for the thought.

That is largely down to the wall. I presume this is brick and plaster?

If you like new tools:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqGoEuTAJE4

On 5 Mar 2021 at 00:08:14 GMT, "Fredxx" wrote:

On 04/03/2021 23:47, Bert Coules wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket and
sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated room.

Thanks for the thought.

That is largely down to the wall. I presume this is brick and plaster?

If you like new tools:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqGoEuTAJE4

If it were soft blocks or bricks and the room was furnished I think I'd rather
spend a few minutes longer and produce a lot lest dust using a few pilot holes
and a cold chisel.


--
Roger Hayter

On 04/03/2021 16:14, Bert Coules wrote:
I'm about to lose an existing double-gang wall socket behind a new
wardrobe, and would like to run a plugged-in extension lead from it to a
new surface-mounted socket just beside the wardrobe.

What little exposed flex there will be between the edge of the wardrobe
and the new surface box can be trunked in, so I'm not concerned about
exposing it to potential damage.

I've been trying to find out if there's a surface-mount box (single-gang
would do) with less protrusion than the usual 25mm (purely because it
would look less clunky).

And also if it's possible to get a conventional-type three-pin plug with
less depth than the standard (since there's not going to be much
clearance behind the wardrobe).

I've looked in the obvious places but without luck; I wonder if I'm
using the wrong search terms.Â* Any pointers in the right direction would
be very welcome. Thanks.

Why not do the job properly and chase cable into the wall and use a
flush socket? after all the mess you make will be covered by the
wardrobe anyway


--
To ban Christmas, simply give turkeys the vote.

On 04/03/2021 18:39, wrote:
On 04/03/2021 18:05, Bert Coules wrote:
ARW wrote:

But why not just do away with the double socket, joint through with
wago connectors and run a bit of 2.5mm T&E to the new socket and fit
a 2g blanking plate over the old socket?

That's probably the most straightforward suggestion so far; thanks, Adam.
I did exactly the same thing today as part of the round tuit to finish
the utility room. The washing machine socket would have been behind the
sink so a couple of horizontal cuts with a multi tool, some SDS bashing,
some out of date bonding and a little bit of "easy fill" - 2 hours from
start to end, and a little painting tomorrow.
I did similar to extend a cat 5 cable from an upstairs bedroom to the
kitchen. had to remove a couple of square feet of plasterboard to allow
access to drill diagonally down to where the socket was required in te
kitchen...ended up with lots of filler and sanding..well that room is
now nearly redecorated all over. Which it had coming anyway
--
WOKE is an acronym... Without Originality, Knowledge or Education.

On 04/03/2021 23:47, Bert Coules wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket and
sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated room.


If I'd let that stop me I'd never have gotten anything done at all.

Very early on I realised that if you want to do anything in a house that
involves pipes or wires, you either track them round the surface or you
dig in, put them where they should be, and face the fact that making
good the surface finish is an inevitable and major part of the job.

filler sander and paint to match the old, and if you paper, keep a roll
back just in case...

I am delighted to be able to match 20 year old paint perfectly

Thanks for the thought.


--
€œSome people like to travel by train because it combines the slowness of
a car with the cramped public exposure of €¨an airplane.€�

Dennis Miller

Many thanks for all the new replies.

Mess concealed by a wardrobe is still mess!

That cutter tool is clever, but I'd like to see it in use on harder blocks.
And "Continue until the correct depth is reached" is a glib way of covering
a tricky part of the operation, isn't it?

Or go back to somewhere convenient and run a new cable to the new socket
with the wiring in plastic trunking. That way when you want the old socket
it will still be there.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"ARW" wrote in message
...
On 04/03/2021 16:56, Bert Coules wrote:
Jeff Layman wrote:

How about using a 13A fused spur with flex outlet? It might be possible
to take the flex to an extension socket (assuming it's allowed under
regulations). No plug needed.

That's a nice idea. But the soon-to-be-hidden switched socket is a
double; is it possible to replace that with a single fixed spur?



It is if you use modular parts

But why not just do away with the double socket, joint through with wago
connectors and run a bit of 2.5mm T&E to the new socket and fit a 2g
blanking plate over the old socket?

--
Adam

Thanks, Brian.

A solution to one part of the project has presented itself: it turns out
that the wardrobe has a slightly recessed back, which means there is just
about enough clearance for a conventional-thickness plug in the existing
socket.

In the apparent absence of surface-mounted sockets with less protrusion than
normal, it looks as if I'll have to go with the smallest available option,
which seems to be a 25mm box and a surface plate as slim as possible.

Thanks to all for the thoughts and advice.

On 05/03/2021 08:54, Bert Coules wrote:
A solution to one part of the project has presented itself: it turns out
that the wardrobe has a slightly recessed back, which means there is
just about enough clearance for a conventional-thickness plug in the
existing socket.

In the apparent absence of surface-mounted sockets with less protrusion
than normal, it looks as if I'll have to go with the smallest available
option, which seems to be a 25mm box and a surface plate as slim as
possible.

Thanks to all for the thoughts and advice.


A belated thought. What you have in mind means moving the wardrobe if
the fuse in the plug goes. That's probably a *very* remote possiblity
these days. But Sod's law may apply. Of course moving the wardrobe may
not be a problem (now and in the fuure). But the risk wd be avoided if
you ran a spur.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 05/03/2021 00:08, Fredxx wrote:
On 04/03/2021 23:47, Bert Coules wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket
and sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated
room.

Thanks for the thought.

That is largely down to the wall. I presume this is brick and plaster?

If you like new tools:
Â* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqGoEuTAJE4


These may be OK in soft blocks but are useless in bricks or dense blocks.

On 05/03/2021 09:19, Robin wrote:
On 05/03/2021 08:54, Bert Coules wrote:
A solution to one part of the project has presented itself: it turns
out that the wardrobe has a slightly recessed back, which means there
is just about enough clearance for a conventional-thickness plug in
the existing socket.

In the apparent absence of surface-mounted sockets with less
protrusion than normal, it looks as if I'll have to go with the
smallest available option, which seems to be a 25mm box and a surface
plate as slim as possible.

Thanks to all for the thoughts and advice.


A belated thought.Â* What you have in mind means moving the wardrobe if
the fuse in the plug goes.Â* That's probably a *very* remote possiblity
these days. But Sod's law may apply. Of course moving the wardrobe may
not be a problem (now and in the fuure).Â* But the risk wd be avoided if
you ran a spur.


.... or: use a multitool to make a hole in the back of the wardrobe, fix
some small battens around the back edge of the hole and use mirror
screws to fix the piece you've cut out back in place

On 05/03/2021 10:31, wrote:
On 05/03/2021 00:08, Fredxx wrote:
On 04/03/2021 23:47, Bert Coules wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket
and sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated
room.

Thanks for the thought.

That is largely down to the wall. I presume this is brick and plaster?

If you like new tools:
Â*Â* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqGoEuTAJE4


These may be OK in soft blocks but are useless in bricks or dense blocks.

And if you are only doing one or two in soft blocks, it's quicker and
cheaper to use a router with an old bit, rather than making a trip and
buying the special tool.

wrote:

... or: use a multitool to make a hole in the back of the wardrobe, fix
some small battens around the back edge of the hole and use mirror
screws to fix the piece you've cut out back in place

Or simply cut the hole. Who's going to see it?

Robin wrote:

What you have in mind means moving the wardrobe if the fuse in the plug
goes.

It's an excellent thought. I might simply cut an access hole in the back of
the wardrobe.

On 05/03/2021 11:16, Bert Coules wrote:
wrote:

... or: use a multitool to make a hole in the back of the wardrobe,
fix some small battens around the back edge of the hole and use mirror
screws to fix the piece you've cut out back in place

Or simply cut the hole.Â* Who's going to see it?

and it leaves easy access to the switch in case of emergency

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 04/03/2021 23:47, Bert Coules wrote:
Fredxx wrote:

Is there any reason why you don't spur off the current twin socket and
sink another socket horizontally? Especially if depth is an issue?

None, beyond the mess and inconvenience in a completed and decorated room.

Thanks for the thought.

If you wallpapered it that might be a reason.
If you still have the remains of the wall paint (everyone
does keep the remnants 'just in case' don't they?) then
this is not really an issue.

On 05/03/2021 08:54, Bert Coules wrote:
A solution to one part of the project has presented itself: it turns out
that the wardrobe has a slightly recessed back, which means there is
just about enough clearance for a conventional-thickness plug in the
existing socket.

In the apparent absence of surface-mounted sockets with less protrusion
than normal, it looks as if I'll have to go with the smallest available
option, which seems to be a 25mm box and a surface plate as slim as
possible.

Thanks to all for the thoughts and advice.



Cut a hole in the side of the new wardrobe and fit a back
box into it, with a flush fitting twin socket connected to a
3 pin plug in original socket with some suitably rated flex.

Andrew wrote:

Cut a hole in the side of the new wardrobe and fit a back
box into it, with a flush fitting twin socket connected to a
3 pin plug in original socket with some suitably rated flex.

An elegant idea, but unfortunately the sides of the new wardrobe will not be
accessible. I have to run to a new wall-mounted socket.