The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on. There
was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job was blown
and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon light on the cooker
switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace that switch now or is there
something more that needs to be investigated by a electrician?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...n-1356257-.htm

Well get yourself onto the usenet group on a sensible system not Home Owners
Club for a start.
My guess is that something is connecting the other side of the switch to an
earth or neutral. It needs to be investigated.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"LizzyArt" m wrote in
message ...
The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There
was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job was
blown
and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon light on the
cooker
switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace that switch now or is
there
something more that needs to be investigated by a electrician?
--
for full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...n-1356257-.htm

LizzyArt m wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on. There
was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job was blown
and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon light on the cooker
switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace that switch now or is there
something more that needs to be investigated by a electrician?

If all the ccoker controls work normally I'd assume it is just the
switch contacts welded together by arcing, and just replace the main
switch. The switch on the cooker probably came to no harm as it was not
opened or closed during the fault current.

--

Roger Hayter

LizzyArt m
Wrote in message:
The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on. There
was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job was blown
and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon light on the cooker
switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace that switch now or is there
something more that needs to be investigated by a electrician?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...n-1356257-.htm

Ah! A ring on my H
O B!!!
--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article ,
LizzyArt m wrote:
The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

If a proper cooker switch properly installed, it will be on its own radial
circuit. Not a ring. So yes, get a competent electrician in.

--
*He who laughs last has just realised the joke.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman wrote:

If a proper cooker switch properly installed, it will be on its own radial
circuit. Not a ring. So yes, get a competent electrician in.

I assume "ring" as in hob element?

Oh you just caught on to the one key out when typing syndrome then?
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Graham." wrote in message
...
LizzyArt m
Wrote in message:
The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There
was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job was
blown
and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon light on the
cooker
switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace that switch now or is
there
something more that needs to be investigated by a electrician?

--
for full context, visit
https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...n-1356257-.htm

Ah! A ring on my HO B!!!
--

Graham.
%Profound_observation%


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
Dave Plowman wrote:

If a proper cooker switch properly installed, it will be on its own
radial circuit. Not a ring. So yes, get a competent electrician in.

I assume "ring" as in hob element?

Ah - right. You do have to assume much with these homeownersclub posts. ;-)

--
*Middle age is when work is a lot less fun - and fun a lot more work.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Roger Hayter wrote:

LizzyArt m wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

If all the ccoker controls work normally I'd assume it is just the
switch contacts welded together by arcing, and just replace the main
switch. The switch on the cooker probably came to no harm as it was not
opened or closed during the fault current.

But first of all try operating the switch rapidly on and off a dozen or
two times in case the contacts free themselves.

--

Roger Hayter

On Monday, 15 April 2019 00:14:04 UTC+1, LizzyArt wrote:
The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on. There
was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job was blown
and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon light on the cooker
switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace that switch now or is there
something more that needs to be investigated by a electrician?

1. We need clearer info.
2. Most people here block the website you're using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y.
3. A multimeter is the best tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the basics of how to use them. Do the latter first, they die if connected wrong.
4. As someone said, waggling your various switches might work, but that doesn't mean the result will be reliable or necessarily safe.


NT

wrote:

On Monday, 15 April 2019 00:14:04 UTC+1, LizzyArt wrote:
The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

1. We need clearer info. 2. Most people here block the website you're
using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y. 3. A multimeter is the best
tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the basics of how to use
them. Do the latter first, they die if connected wrong. 4. As someone
said, waggling your various switches might work, but that doesn't mean the
result will be reliable or necessarily safe.


NT

As far as detecting the fault is concerned I think the neon is already
doing the only task a multimeter would be needed for. However, I do
agree that if the switch isn't replaced and the neon goes out with
switch manipulation then it would be good idea to check that both the
live and the neutral sides of the isolatng switch are opening.
--

Roger Hayter

On 15/04/2019 15:26, Roger Hayter wrote:
Roger Hayter wrote:

LizzyArt m wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

If all the ccoker controls work normally I'd assume it is just the
switch contacts welded together by arcing, and just replace the main
switch. The switch on the cooker probably came to no harm as it was not
opened or closed during the fault current.

But first of all try operating the switch rapidly on and off a dozen or
two times in case the contacts free themselves.


Would you still trust a switch to work correctly if that worked?

However I suspect that is a part of your diagnostics with the suggestion
of swapping the switch later if it worked.

--
Adam

On Monday, 15 April 2019 19:13:27 UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 00:14:04 UTC+1, LizzyArt wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

1. We need clearer info. 2. Most people here block the website you're
using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y. 3. A multimeter is the best
tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the basics of how to use
them. Do the latter first, they die if connected wrong. 4. As someone
said, waggling your various switches might work, but that doesn't mean the
result will be reliable or necessarily safe.

As far as detecting the fault is concerned I think the neon is already
doing the only task a multimeter would be needed for.

not even close

NT

However, I do
agree that if the switch isn't replaced and the neon goes out with
switch manipulation then it would be good idea to check that both the
live and the neutral sides of the isolatng switch are opening.

ARW wrote:

On 15/04/2019 15:26, Roger Hayter wrote:
Roger Hayter wrote:

LizzyArt m wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

If all the ccoker controls work normally I'd assume it is just the
switch contacts welded together by arcing, and just replace the main
switch. The switch on the cooker probably came to no harm as it was not
opened or closed during the fault current.

But first of all try operating the switch rapidly on and off a dozen or
two times in case the contacts free themselves.


Would you still trust a switch to work correctly if that worked?

Yes, It works with relay contacts, anyway, I've had years of useful
life out them. But, as per other post, I suppose one should check that
*both* switch poles are open.


However I suspect that is a part of your diagnostics with the suggestion
of swapping the switch later if it worked.

I really don't think any other diagnostics are necessary, as long as all
the cooker controls work as expectd. I don't suppose any of them are
two pole switches.


--

Roger Hayter

On 15/04/2019 20:46, wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 19:13:27 UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 00:14:04 UTC+1, LizzyArt wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on.
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

1. We need clearer info. 2. Most people here block the website you're
using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y. 3. A multimeter is the best
tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the basics of how to use
them. Do the latter first, they die if connected wrong. 4. As someone
said, waggling your various switches might work, but that doesn't mean the
result will be reliable or necessarily safe.

As far as detecting the fault is concerned I think the neon is already
doing the only task a multimeter would be needed for.

not even close

Well knock about and tell us what is wrong.

I have a fire to watch and a gf to shag.


--
Adam

On Monday, 15 April 2019 21:24:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 15/04/2019 20:46, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 19:13:27 UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 00:14:04 UTC+1, LizzyArt wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on..
There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job
was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon
light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace
that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated
by a electrician?

1. We need clearer info. 2. Most people here block the website you're
using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y. 3. A multimeter is the best
tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the basics of how to use
them. Do the latter first, they die if connected wrong. 4. As someone
said, waggling your various switches might work, but that doesn't mean the
result will be reliable or necessarily safe.

As far as detecting the fault is concerned I think the neon is already
doing the only task a multimeter would be needed for.

not even close

Well knock about and tell us what is wrong.

We don't know do we. A meter is needed to find out. Neon staying on when cooker off typically means a lost neutral. If a switch is welded, unsticking it leaves a high R contact carrying a fair bit of current - I'd prefer to file the contacts than leave it as is.

NT

I have a fire to watch and a gf to shag.

wrote:

On Monday, 15 April 2019 21:24:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 15/04/2019 20:46, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 19:13:27 UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 00:14:04 UTC+1, LizzyArt wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker
on. There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on
the job was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on
the neon light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need
to replace that switch now or is there something more that needs to
be investigated by a electrician?

1. We need clearer info. 2. Most people here block the website
you're using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y. 3. A multimeter
is the best tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the
basics of how to use them. Do the latter first, they die if
connected wrong. 4. As someone said, waggling your various switches
might work, but that doesn't mean the result will be reliable or
necessarily safe.

As far as detecting the fault is concerned I think the neon is already
doing the only task a multimeter would be needed for.

not even close

Well knock about and tell us what is wrong.

We don't know do we. A meter is needed to find out. Neon staying on when
cooker off typically means a lost neutral. If a switch is welded,
unsticking it leaves a high R contact carrying a fair bit of current -
I'd prefer to file the contacts than leave it as is.

If the cooker works the neutral is intact. I don't think you can
easily file the contacts in a commercial cooker isolation switch - if
you don't like burnt contacts a new one is in order.

--


Roger Hayter

On Tuesday, 16 April 2019 09:22:03 UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 21:24:12 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 15/04/2019 20:46, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 19:13:27 UTC+1, Roger Hayter wrote:
tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 15 April 2019 00:14:04 UTC+1, LizzyArt wrote:

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker
on. There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on
the job was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on
the neon light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need
to replace that switch now or is there something more that needs to
be investigated by a electrician?

1. We need clearer info. 2. Most people here block the website
you're using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y. 3. A multimeter
is the best tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the
basics of how to use them. Do the latter first, they die if
connected wrong. 4. As someone said, waggling your various switches
might work, but that doesn't mean the result will be reliable or
necessarily safe.

As far as detecting the fault is concerned I think the neon is already
doing the only task a multimeter would be needed for.

not even close

Well knock about and tell us what is wrong.

We don't know do we. A meter is needed to find out. Neon staying on when
cooker off typically means a lost neutral. If a switch is welded,
unsticking it leaves a high R contact carrying a fair bit of current -
I'd prefer to file the contacts than leave it as is.

If the cooker works the neutral is intact.

yes

I don't think you can
easily file the contacts in a commercial cooker isolation switch - if
you don't like burnt contacts a new one is in order.

Maybe, but the account is too vague to reliably conclude that imho. Fwiw. Ymmv. Yfmv too.


NT