Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

I never ever burnt a cable down to a conductor.

Since you've parroted that well-crafted phrase several times, I will
read it as

"I melted through the outer jacket, but was lucky enough
to only partly melt the inner insulation"

I think my old red X25 still bears that scar from when I was about
twelve ...

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 14:20:47 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

I never ever burnt a cable down to a conductor.

Since you've parroted that well-crafted phrase several times, I will
read it as

"I melted through the outer jacket, but was lucky enough
to only partly melt the inner insulation"

I think my old red X25 still bears that scar from when I was about
twelve ...

Pye Line transformers needed two 25W irons to release them,
coordination was difficult and involved the use of Ones gut, if help
wasn't on hand.

Soldering using Ones stomach wasn't a simple task and was prone to the
odd minor disaster.

I was an apprentice then :-)

AB

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can also
be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it. Simple
probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering iron
simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 07:01:07 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can also
be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it. Simple
probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering iron
simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

Our Usenet Guru?

He has a point, scrap testing for kids, stream them on soldering iron
size. Anyone with a 25W iron and a xtal set under their belt is a
duffer, bung em in with the loonies, after applying a dunces cap of
course.


The good old Solon must now have a warning, "for use by idiots only".
There is the possibility that some 25W irons are not used for
electronics, but best play safe and ensure that only the total fools
are in receipt.

It's an eye opener, I tell you, having hundreds of colleagues and
aquaintences in the consumer electronics field categorised as total
fools. And they seemed so normal too.

One lives and learns


Ab

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Pye Line transformers needed two 25W irons to release them,
coordination was difficult and involved the use of Ones gut, if help
wasn't on hand.

Even more reason to use an industry standard 50 watt type. Is capable of
doing pretty well any normal repair job. Probably why that size is a
standard with pros.

--
*A bicycle can't stand alone because it's two tyred.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can
also be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it.
Simple probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering
iron simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a
total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an amateur.

--
*When everything's coming your way, you're in the wrong lane *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:32:54 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Pye Line transformers needed two 25W irons to release them,
coordination was difficult and involved the use of Ones gut, if help
wasn't on hand.

Even more reason to use an industry standard 50 watt type. Is capable of
doing pretty well any normal repair job. Probably why that size is a
standard with pros.
25W was the industry standard.

I took a great interest in what I did and visited many workshops in
the UK and overseas, there would always be a few 25W solons smoldering
away on the benches.

AB

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 15:37:44 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can
also be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it.
Simple probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering
iron simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a
total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an amateur.

I used 25W irons costing around £3-00, I could order them up as often
as I needed them. A soldering station would have involved planning and
persuasion.

Even now, I have a couple of 25W irons, also a couple of gas Wellers.
I would not use a controller because of its footprint.

I wouldn't use a curie controlled iron either, they were garbage.


I no longer spend hours at a bench soldering, and if I tried it, I
suspect that my skills would have suffered over the years.

I hate to think what my work would have been like a few years back,
when my visits to the pub involved a two handed snatch for the first
few pints to avoid a soggy counter.

AB

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 15:38:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can
also be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it.
Simple probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering
iron simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a
total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

I've not seen the workshop end of many repair places. But some of them certainly do use much more basic equipment. The 'nicer' places use thermostatic, the more ramshackle places often don't.

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering iron tips is common.

Why do I waste my time on usenet.


NT

On 24/03/2018 12:52, wrote:
On Saturday, 24 March 2018 10:40:24 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 07:31:43 +0000, Scott M wrote:
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

Exactly, but if contact with heat is not a worry, why silicone cable?

PVC is fine, if you look hard you can find some that will set like a
poker in cold weather, and maybe a 15W litesold might be too light for
PVC, but a 25W iron is o/k with the cable supplied if the
manufacturers choice is PVC.

I have used just about every available 25W iron and used them in all
temperatures with no problem. I suppose some workshops were a bit
frosty first thing, but if it was cold enough to stiffen the mains
cable to the iron, the shivering of the operator would ensure a
multitude of dry joints anyway. Better to wait for the heating to kick
in.

Weller only supplied their soldering stations with silicone cable, but
this was never a factor in choosing the equipment. Should another
maker produce the same with PVC cable, if the cost saving was
channeled through to the final price, then the Weller wouldn't have
been ordered.

AB

PVC is fine. At least until the tip touches it and you have exposed conductors. I suppose cotton covered rubber, the old iron flex, would beat rubber alone.


NT

I have never known an old clothes iron flex that lasted more than 18
months, they all seem to twist inside and break up the cotton and rubber.

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 08:26:02 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 15:38:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can
also be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it.
Simple probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering
iron simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a
total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

I've not seen the workshop end of many repair places. But some of them certainly do use much more basic equipment. The 'nicer' places use thermostatic, the more ramshackle places often don't.

Any establishment would hopefully have equipment suited for the task,
never confuse "nicer" with more professional.

I went on from consumer electronics to the MOD, where no expense was
spared. The main factor regarding success and quality of work was the
personnel.

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering iron tips is common.

One of those minor incidentals that are totally forgotten, until you
are down to the last couple of irons and end up drilling the corroded
bit, half the aluminium holder and some of the element too in an
attempt to change the seized bit.


Why do I waste my time on usenet.

It's not a waste of time, it , like Brexit can be a source of
amusement, and I do have a lot to thank this NG for.

UK.d-i-y has a wealth of experience and a considerable number of
willing advisors.

Granted there are one or two total *******, but most contributors
provide sound valuable advice and it would be a boring NG if there was
only one standard answer.

Wikipedia would render the NG virtually useless if that were the case.


Be thankful, at least the group has advice and individuals


AB






NT

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 16:34:36 UTC+1, critcher wrote:
On 24/03/2018 12:52, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 24 March 2018 10:40:24 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 07:31:43 +0000, Scott M wrote:
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

Exactly, but if contact with heat is not a worry, why silicone cable?

PVC is fine, if you look hard you can find some that will set like a
poker in cold weather, and maybe a 15W litesold might be too light for
PVC, but a 25W iron is o/k with the cable supplied if the
manufacturers choice is PVC.

I have used just about every available 25W iron and used them in all
temperatures with no problem. I suppose some workshops were a bit
frosty first thing, but if it was cold enough to stiffen the mains
cable to the iron, the shivering of the operator would ensure a
multitude of dry joints anyway. Better to wait for the heating to kick
in.

Weller only supplied their soldering stations with silicone cable, but
this was never a factor in choosing the equipment. Should another
maker produce the same with PVC cable, if the cost saving was
channeled through to the final price, then the Weller wouldn't have
been ordered.

AB

PVC is fine. At least until the tip touches it and you have exposed conductors. I suppose cotton covered rubber, the old iron flex, would beat rubber alone.


NT

I have never known an old clothes iron flex that lasted more than 18
months, they all seem to twist inside and break up the cotton and rubber.

Hmm. Perhaps you iron everything.


NT

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 16:44:35 UTC+1, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 08:26:02 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 15:38:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can
also be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it.
Simple probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering
iron simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a
total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

I've not seen the workshop end of many repair places. But some of them certainly do use much more basic equipment. The 'nicer' places use thermostatic, the more ramshackle places often don't.

Any establishment would hopefully have equipment suited for the task,
never confuse "nicer" with more professional.

Even a copper lump & coal fire can do the task. I don't think you'd believe what equipment I once did repairs with.

I went on from consumer electronics to the MOD, where no expense was
spared. The main factor regarding success and quality of work was the
personnel.

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering iron tips is common.

One of those minor incidentals that are totally forgotten, until you
are down to the last couple of irons and end up drilling the corroded
bit, half the aluminium holder and some of the element too in an
attempt to change the seized bit.

A quick file of the tip is mostly the answer. It's quicker, and fwliw cheaper. A lot of people are horrified by that, thinking the precious iron plating is vital - it's not. It just slows corrosion.

Why do I waste my time on usenet.

It's not a waste of time, it , like Brexit can be a source of
amusement, and I do have a lot to thank this NG for.

UK.d-i-y has a wealth of experience and a considerable number of
willing advisors.

Granted there are one or two total *******, but most contributors
provide sound valuable advice and it would be a boring NG if there was
only one standard answer.

Wikipedia would render the NG virtually useless if that were the case.

it would if it could work out what the one answer is.

Be thankful, at least the group has advice and individuals


AB

I've learnt lots here. I've also learnt stuff by not taking advice here. But some of the discussions do get quite pointless. I can only blame myself for continuing to discuss those ones.


NT

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 13:00:18 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 16:44:35 UTC+1, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 08:26:02 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 15:38:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can
also be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it.
Simple probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering
iron simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a
total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

I've not seen the workshop end of many repair places. But some of them certainly do use much more basic equipment. The 'nicer' places use thermostatic, the more ramshackle places often don't.

Any establishment would hopefully have equipment suited for the task,
never confuse "nicer" with more professional.

Even a copper lump & coal fire can do the task. I don't think you'd believe what equipment I once did repairs with.

When needs must :-)

And of course there are those who would sit waiting for B&Q to open:-(

I went on from consumer electronics to the MOD, where no expense was
spared. The main factor regarding success and quality of work was the
personnel.

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering iron tips is common.

One of those minor incidentals that are totally forgotten, until you
are down to the last couple of irons and end up drilling the corroded
bit, half the aluminium holder and some of the element too in an
attempt to change the seized bit.

A quick file of the tip is mostly the answer. It's quicker, and fwliw cheaper. A lot of people are horrified by that, thinking the precious iron plating is vital - it's not. It just slows corrosion.

I would disagree on this point, my experience was that it was better
to treat the tip gently. Soggy sponge and that tin of resiny mild
abrasive that was sold for the purpose. When the first pit showed, the
file came out and stayed out. Oxidation was exponential at that point.

The irons were on all day every day though.

Why do I waste my time on usenet.

It's not a waste of time, it , like Brexit can be a source of
amusement, and I do have a lot to thank this NG for.

UK.d-i-y has a wealth of experience and a considerable number of
willing advisors.

Granted there are one or two total *******, but most contributors
provide sound valuable advice and it would be a boring NG if there was
only one standard answer.

Wikipedia would render the NG virtually useless if that were the case.

it would if it could work out what the one answer is.

It has a lot of answers but little experience.

Be thankful, at least the group has advice and individuals


AB

I've learnt lots here. I've also learnt stuff by not taking advice here. But some of the discussions do get quite pointless. I can only blame myself for continuing to discuss those ones.

Correct, that's why threads tail off and die I suppose.

I have used usenet since the time I connected with a modem of a few
hundred baud, it is a superb medium. I think all those sensitive souls
on Facebook and Twitter should spend time on it, before jumping off
cliffs because someone on social media has done a zit count and deemed
them a pariah.



AB




NT

In article ,
wrote:
I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

I've not seen the workshop end of many repair places. But some of them
certainly do use much more basic equipment. The 'nicer' places use
thermostatic, the more ramshackle places often don't.

I'll take your word over ramshackle places. They are outside my experience.

--
*Do they ever shut up on your planet?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an
amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering
iron tips is common.

Are you saying from experience that a non temperature controlled mains
iron will have as long and element and bit life as a low voltage
temperature controlled type?

I'm saying from *my* experience, they don't.

In a repair shop, an iron is often left on all day whether in use or not.

--
*If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 00:25:52 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an
amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering
iron tips is common.

Are you saying from experience that a non temperature controlled mains
iron will have as long and element and bit life as a low voltage
temperature controlled type?

An oversimplification, in general a controlled iron will have a longer
bit life, but many irons including my two are not controlled and are
still on their first bit.

I'm saying from *my* experience, they don't.

In a repair shop, an iron is often left on all day whether in use or not.

Depends on duty cycle, depends on the items being repaired.

On a personal level, I would always prefer a copper tip, I always
liked the resin cored flux and the Savbit alloy [Fry's I think].

Watching all manner of people of all abilities antics with an Iron, I
think there is a lot of empathy needed with the equipment to produce a
good joint. Basically whatever one feels comfortable with, but
dropping a few Meg of RAM, a CPU and a few interface chips onto a
board with a 25W iron, wouldn't endear One to the workshop manager.

Incidentally, the controlled stations tended to be wacked up fully
anyway, the irons were seldom out of ones grubby little mitts, so
there was often only a few minutes to build up temperature during the
"repairs"


Very rarely did the luxury of faultfinding pay off, the cost of labour
vs components led to blanket component swaps.


Some professionals would probably produce a more mechanically sound,
electrically conductive joint with a tube of Bostick. Whatever the
equipment used to melt the solder.

A bit like yours truly with plastering.

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 22:38:36 UTC+1, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 13:00:18 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 16:44:35 UTC+1, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 08:26:02 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 15:38:46 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 25 March 2018 13:53:55 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can
also be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it.
Simple probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering
iron simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a
total fool.

You don't have much wordly experience do you.

I've seen lots and lots of pro workshops. Which repair electronics. And
all have used low voltage temperature controlled soldering stations.

I've not seen the workshop end of many repair places. But some of them certainly do use much more basic equipment. The 'nicer' places use thermostatic, the more ramshackle places often don't.

Any establishment would hopefully have equipment suited for the task,
never confuse "nicer" with more professional.

Even a copper lump & coal fire can do the task. I don't think you'd believe what equipment I once did repairs with.

When needs must :-)

And of course there are those who would sit waiting for B&Q to open:-(

I went on from consumer electronics to the MOD, where no expense was
spared. The main factor regarding success and quality of work was the
personnel.

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering iron tips is common.

One of those minor incidentals that are totally forgotten, until you
are down to the last couple of irons and end up drilling the corroded
bit, half the aluminium holder and some of the element too in an
attempt to change the seized bit.

A quick file of the tip is mostly the answer. It's quicker, and fwliw cheaper. A lot of people are horrified by that, thinking the precious iron plating is vital - it's not. It just slows corrosion.

I would disagree on this point, my experience was that it was better
to treat the tip gently. Soggy sponge and that tin of resiny mild
abrasive that was sold for the purpose.

that's what you do before it needs filing. I always found wet denim preferable to cellulose sponge.

When the first pit showed, the
file came out and stayed out. Oxidation was exponential at that point.

increased certainly, not exponential.

The irons were on all day every day though.

Why do I waste my time on usenet.

It's not a waste of time, it , like Brexit can be a source of
amusement, and I do have a lot to thank this NG for.

UK.d-i-y has a wealth of experience and a considerable number of
willing advisors.

Granted there are one or two total *******, but most contributors
provide sound valuable advice and it would be a boring NG if there was
only one standard answer.

Wikipedia would render the NG virtually useless if that were the case.

it would if it could work out what the one answer is.

It has a lot of answers but little experience.

Be thankful, at least the group has advice and individuals


AB

I've learnt lots here. I've also learnt stuff by not taking advice here. But some of the discussions do get quite pointless. I can only blame myself for continuing to discuss those ones.

Correct, that's why threads tail off and die I suppose.

I have used usenet since the time I connected with a modem of a few
hundred baud, it is a superb medium. I think all those sensitive souls
on Facebook and Twitter should spend time on it, before jumping off
cliffs because someone on social media has done a zit count and deemed
them a pariah.

I remember using 300 baud. I don't think I'd heard of usenet then though


NT

On Monday, 26 March 2018 00:28:47 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an
amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering
iron tips is common.

Are you saying from experience that a non temperature controlled mains
iron will have as long and element and bit life as a low voltage
temperature controlled type?

you like making silly stuff up don't you.

I'm saying from *my* experience, they don't.

obviously, to anyone that actually does electronics


NT

On Monday, 26 March 2018 00:56:37 UTC+1, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Mon, 26 Mar 2018 00:25:52 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled iron,
both the bits and elements will last longer. An important thing when
earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know this is an
amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re soldering
iron tips is common.

Are you saying from experience that a non temperature controlled mains
iron will have as long and element and bit life as a low voltage
temperature controlled type?

An oversimplification, in general a controlled iron will have a longer
bit life, but many irons including my two are not controlled and are
still on their first bit.

it's basic fizzicks, a non thermostatic iron inevitbaly runs hotter when not thermally loaded, and hotter = faster oxidation, if all else is equal, which it isn't.

I remember irons with a boost button too, liked those.


NT

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Are you saying from experience that a non temperature controlled mains
iron will have as long and element and bit life as a low voltage
temperature controlled type?

An oversimplification, in general a controlled iron will have a longer
bit life, but many irons including my two are not controlled and are
still on their first bit.

This is Antex? Simply shows how little use they've had. Just what I've
said all along.

--
*A bartender is just a pharmacist with a limited inventory.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
On Monday, 26 March 2018 00:28:47 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:

Apart from anything else, with a low volt temperature controlled
iron, both the bits and elements will last longer. An important
thing when earning money from repairs. Anyone who doesn't know
this is an amateur.

That's just funny. It's probably fair to say that ignorance re
soldering iron tips is common.

Are you saying from experience that a non temperature controlled mains
iron will have as long and element and bit life as a low voltage
temperature controlled type?

you like making silly stuff up don't you.

I'm saying from *my* experience, they don't.

obviously, to anyone that actually does electronics


Then why did you disagree with my statement?

--
*Most people have more than the average number of legs*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Scott M wrote:
This gets coiled up and put in the small tool box and comes out once per
job rather than living on a bench which probably doesn't help.

I'd say an Antex a bit delicate for that sort of use. You want something
like a Henley Solon. ;-)

Sadly it's delicate stuff (well XLR, jack connectors, etc) out in the
field. Usually bent double balanced on a chair!

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

In article ,
Scott M wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Scott M wrote:
This gets coiled up and put in the small tool box and comes out once
per job rather than living on a bench which probably doesn't help.

I'd say an Antex a bit delicate for that sort of use. You want
something like a Henley Solon. ;-)

Sadly it's delicate stuff (well XLR, jack connectors, etc) out in the
field. Usually bent double balanced on a chair!

You don't need a particularly fine iron for XLRs. Beauty of the Antex is
its small size and light weight for doing a lot of soldering. But that
does mean it's less robust than others, so maybe not the best choice for
occasional field work.

(I'm not well up on what's around these days because as I said I made my
own solder station based around Antex and Pace handsets which I'm still
very happy with)

--
*Reality? Is that where the pizza delivery guy comes from?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sunday, 25 March 2018 11:55:00 UTC+1, Fredxx wrote:
On 25/03/2018 11:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

Why dont you read and try to understand the post prior to responding?

Trying to understand you is akin to working out what goes on in Trump's
head.

I'm willing to bet I've done far more soldering than you. To the point of
even building my own solder/desolder station since there was nothing on
the market that suited me 100%.

And the idea of using a flex which melts if accidentally touched with a
hot bit just shows you've zero experience of soldering.

I was thinking back to the last time I melted a flex. It was probably in
my 20s.

Here it was on wed/thursday last week, although it was the flex to the soldering station PSU rather than the irons flex itself.


One cause may be the use of 24V irons, where the cord is better behaved.

Either way a little care can go a long way.

That's the thing about accidents you just can't assume car will be taken, you have to find ways of eliminting care as the solution to a problem.

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
I was thinking back to the last time I melted a flex. It was probably
in my 20s.

Here it was on wed/thursday last week, although it was the flex to the
soldering station PSU rather than the irons flex itself.

We seem to be the only humans on here, Dave. So many others appear to have
robotic skills when it comes to soldering. ;-)

--
*If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Monday, 26 March 2018 13:48:59 UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
I was thinking back to the last time I melted a flex. It was probably
in my 20s.

Here it was on wed/thursday last week, although it was the flex to the
soldering station PSU rather than the irons flex itself.

We seem to be the only humans on here, Dave. So many others appear to have
robotic skills when it comes to soldering. ;-)

Well actually I'm perfect ;-D, but having 20 soldering irons set out in a lab with 50+ students using them well anything can and sometimes does happen.