Soldering iron flex
 

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable. A lot nicer to use than the standard flex I've
always had before but, in the 18/24 months I've had it, I've had to to
chop the plug off 3 times and remake the end as the cable cores have
broken near the strain relief. This last time I've also had to redo the
element end.

Because it's pliable the silicone is also very strechy and it takes its
toll on the wire inside (which, incidentally, seems to be steel rather
than copper.) After the first time, which I put down to letting the plug
drop before coiling it back up, I've been careful but it still gives
out. It lives in the toolbox as it has to travel rather than on a desk
but doesn't have a particularly abused life.

So, before I end up with a 6" mains lead, where can I get a different
grade of silicone something tougher if slightly less flexible? Or even
the same stuff as I have now - can't seem to turn any up on eBay?

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

Soldering iron flex
 

On 23/03/2018 21:42, Scott M wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable. A lot nicer to use than the standard flex I've
always had before but, in the 18/24 months I've had it, I've had to to
chop the plug off 3 times and remake the end as the cable cores have
broken near the strain relief. This last time I've also had to redo the
element end.

Because it's pliable the silicone is also very strechy and it takes its
toll on the wire inside (which, incidentally, seems to be steel rather
than copper.) After the first time, which I put down to letting the plug
drop before coiling it back up, I've been careful but it still gives
out. It lives in the toolbox as it has to travel rather than on a desk
but doesn't have a particularly abused life.

So, before I end up with a 6" mains lead, where can I get a different
grade of silicone something tougher if slightly less flexible? Or even
the same stuff as I have now - can't seem to turn any up on eBay?

Can you sleeve the last few inches with sticky heat shrink to make it a
bit more robust? And then clamp the strain relief on that, obviously.

Soldering iron flex
 

newshound wrote:
On 23/03/2018 21:42, Scott M wrote:

So, before I end up with a 6" mains lead, where can I get a different
grade of silicone something tougher if slightly less flexible? Or even
the same stuff as I have now - can't seem to turn any up on eBay?

Can you sleeve the last few inches with sticky heat shrink to make it a
bit more robust? And then clamp the strain relief on that, obviously.

That's a good thought. Not got any sticky stuff but I suppose a squeeze
of glue might work.

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

Soldering iron flex
 

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 22:39:07 +0000, Scott M wrote:

newshound wrote:
On 23/03/2018 21:42, Scott M wrote:

So, before I end up with a 6" mains lead, where can I get a different
grade of silicone something tougher if slightly less flexible? Or even
the same stuff as I have now - can't seem to turn any up on eBay?

Can you sleeve the last few inches with sticky heat shrink to make it a
bit more robust? And then clamp the strain relief on that, obviously.

That's a good thought. Not got any sticky stuff but I suppose a squeeze
of glue might work.

Strangely, I've had a similar Antex (my first only lasted about 35 years)
and I too went for the silicone cable. Never had any problem. It could be
that I hold it differently, or something.

It's partly pensioned off as I have splashed out out a new Weller WT1010.
Gulp.



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

Soldering iron flex
 

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:


I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Hmm!

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

If the iron is class 1 then stick a length of PVC cable on it. If you
burn through the insulation there is no significant risk and you will
probably have a nasal, visible and acoustic indication of the event.

I owned and trashed literally hundreds of 25W irons in my time. I was
not the most cautious worker, but never ever burnt a flex down to its
conductors.

Later on we used Weller soldering stations, with silicone cable. These
were well and truly hammered, they were in virtually constant use, all
day, every day. A bit would last a few days at most, even with Savbit
a week was stretching the lifespan of the bit.

I never ever replaced a silicone cable.

The nature of the work meant that the irons were often used at full
stretch when trying mass component swaps in large drives, so even a
guitar string emulation was not detrimental.

AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 00:56:41 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:


I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Hmm!

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

If the iron is class 1 then stick a length of PVC cable on it. If you
burn through the insulation there is no significant risk and you will
probably have a nasal, visible and acoustic indication of the event.

Rubber is better, it burns through much slower & more nasally.

I owned and trashed literally hundreds of 25W irons in my time. I was
not the most cautious worker, but never ever burnt a flex down to its
conductors.

Later on we used Weller soldering stations, with silicone cable. These
were well and truly hammered, they were in virtually constant use, all
day, every day. A bit would last a few days at most, even with Savbit
a week was stretching the lifespan of the bit.

how on earth did you manage that? throw them away without bothering to clean or file? Broken thermostat?


NT

Soldering iron flex
 

On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 20:59:15 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 00:56:41 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:


I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Hmm!

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

If the iron is class 1 then stick a length of PVC cable on it. If you
burn through the insulation there is no significant risk and you will
probably have a nasal, visible and acoustic indication of the event.

Rubber is better, it burns through much slower & more nasally.

I owned and trashed literally hundreds of 25W irons in my time. I was
not the most cautious worker, but never ever burnt a flex down to its
conductors.

Later on we used Weller soldering stations, with silicone cable. These
were well and truly hammered, they were in virtually constant use, all
day, every day. A bit would last a few days at most, even with Savbit
a week was stretching the lifespan of the bit.

how on earth did you manage that? throw them away without bothering to clean or file? Broken thermostat?

Iron coated, we used to have little tubs of some kind of abrasive
powder and the soggy sponge.

The iron coating would give at one small spot, then that was it,
exponential wear and the file came out as the copper would just
oxydise.

I might add that the thermostat was usually wacked fully up.

Temp control is good in theory, but there was no doubt that to
depopulate and resolder a board quickly, the heat had to be high.

Overtime was available, but times were not good, so a poor turn around
of work was an easy way to the jobcenter.

The type of job is still going and must be technically almost
impossible now. Anyone in the work [3rd party Electrical/ Electronics
repair], has my utmost respect and sympathy.

It truly is a breeding ground for stress, thrombies and loonies.

AB





NT

Soldering iron flex
 

Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

Soldering iron flex
 

Bob Eager wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 22:39:07 +0000, Scott M wrote:

Strangely, I've had a similar Antex (my first only lasted about 35 years)
and I too went for the silicone cable. Never had any problem. It could be
that I hold it differently, or something.

This gets coiled up and put in the small tool box and comes out once per
job rather than living on a bench which probably doesn't help.

My previous one was a PVC cabled 18W Weller which was lasted years until
the element went when it was dropped hot. I replaced it but the new
element never ran as hot :-(

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

Soldering iron flex
 

Have you contacted the manufacturer and pointed out the issues?

I remember back in my murky memory, you used to be able to get some over
slaving which was longer than the strain relief's used, and that kind of
helped, but then of course its stiffer than the old flex and might not be
as good to use.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Scott M" wrote in message
...

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here, the
silicone cable. A lot nicer to use than the standard flex I've always had
before but, in the 18/24 months I've had it, I've had to to chop the plug
off 3 times and remake the end as the cable cores have broken near the
strain relief. This last time I've also had to redo the element end.

Because it's pliable the silicone is also very strechy and it takes its
toll on the wire inside (which, incidentally, seems to be steel rather
than copper.) After the first time, which I put down to letting the plug
drop before coiling it back up, I've been careful but it still gives out.
It lives in the toolbox as it has to travel rather than on a desk but
doesn't have a particularly abused life.

So, before I end up with a 6" mains lead, where can I get a different
grade of silicone something tougher if slightly less flexible? Or even the
same stuff as I have now - can't seem to turn any up on eBay?

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

Soldering iron flex
 

On 23/03/2018 22:39, Scott M wrote:
newshound wrote:
On 23/03/2018 21:42, Scott M wrote:

So, before I end up with a 6" mains lead, where can I get a different
grade of silicone something tougher if slightly less flexible? Or
even the same stuff as I have now - can't seem to turn any up on eBay?

Can you sleeve the last few inches with sticky heat shrink to make it
a bit more robust? And then clamp the strain relief on that, obviously.

That's a good thought. Not got any sticky stuff but I suppose a squeeze
of glue might work.

Ordinary heat shrink might work too. I also thought about injecting some
hot melt adhesive around the strain relief.

IMHO it is well worth having some "sticky heat shrink" in any toolbox,
readily available in all sizes on eBay.

Soldering iron flex
 

Scott M wrote:

Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

It is the choice of silicone in the first place that is based on fear of
burning PVC.

--

Roger Hayter

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 07:31:43 +0000, Scott M wrote:

Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

Exactly, but if contact with heat is not a worry, why silicone cable?

PVC is fine, if you look hard you can find some that will set like a
poker in cold weather, and maybe a 15W litesold might be too light for
PVC, but a 25W iron is o/k with the cable supplied if the
manufacturers choice is PVC.

I have used just about every available 25W iron and used them in all
temperatures with no problem. I suppose some workshops were a bit
frosty first thing, but if it was cold enough to stiffen the mains
cable to the iron, the shivering of the operator would ensure a
multitude of dry joints anyway. Better to wait for the heating to kick
in.

Weller only supplied their soldering stations with silicone cable, but
this was never a factor in choosing the equipment. Should another
maker produce the same with PVC cable, if the cost saving was
channeled through to the final price, then the Weller wouldn't have
been ordered.

AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 00:56:35 +0000, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable,
it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

I bought it for the flexibility.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

Soldering iron flex
 

On 24 Mar 2018 11:05:16 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 00:56:35 +0000, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable,
it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

I bought it for the flexibility.

Then I wish you luck.

My physio say's "lose weight and exercise".

Silicone cable sounds easier, I'll try to bring her round :-)


AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 10:40:24 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 07:31:43 +0000, Scott M wrote:
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

Exactly, but if contact with heat is not a worry, why silicone cable?

PVC is fine, if you look hard you can find some that will set like a
poker in cold weather, and maybe a 15W litesold might be too light for
PVC, but a 25W iron is o/k with the cable supplied if the
manufacturers choice is PVC.

I have used just about every available 25W iron and used them in all
temperatures with no problem. I suppose some workshops were a bit
frosty first thing, but if it was cold enough to stiffen the mains
cable to the iron, the shivering of the operator would ensure a
multitude of dry joints anyway. Better to wait for the heating to kick
in.

Weller only supplied their soldering stations with silicone cable, but
this was never a factor in choosing the equipment. Should another
maker produce the same with PVC cable, if the cost saving was
channeled through to the final price, then the Weller wouldn't have
been ordered.

AB

PVC is fine. At least until the tip touches it and you have exposed conductors. I suppose cotton covered rubber, the old iron flex, would beat rubber alone.


NT

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 05:52:32 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 10:40:24 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 07:31:43 +0000, Scott M wrote:
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

Exactly, but if contact with heat is not a worry, why silicone cable?

PVC is fine, if you look hard you can find some that will set like a
poker in cold weather, and maybe a 15W litesold might be too light for
PVC, but a 25W iron is o/k with the cable supplied if the
manufacturers choice is PVC.

I have used just about every available 25W iron and used them in all
temperatures with no problem. I suppose some workshops were a bit
frosty first thing, but if it was cold enough to stiffen the mains
cable to the iron, the shivering of the operator would ensure a
multitude of dry joints anyway. Better to wait for the heating to kick
in.

Weller only supplied their soldering stations with silicone cable, but
this was never a factor in choosing the equipment. Should another
maker produce the same with PVC cable, if the cost saving was
channeled through to the final price, then the Weller wouldn't have
been ordered.

AB

PVC is fine. At least until the tip touches it and you have exposed conductors. I suppose cotton covered rubber, the old iron flex, would beat rubber alone.


NT

Try to pay attention, theres a good chap :-)

AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 12:54:57 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 05:52:32 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 24 March 2018 10:40:24 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 07:31:43 +0000, Scott M wrote:
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

Exactly, but if contact with heat is not a worry, why silicone cable?

PVC is fine, if you look hard you can find some that will set like a
poker in cold weather, and maybe a 15W litesold might be too light for
PVC, but a 25W iron is o/k with the cable supplied if the
manufacturers choice is PVC.

I have used just about every available 25W iron and used them in all
temperatures with no problem. I suppose some workshops were a bit
frosty first thing, but if it was cold enough to stiffen the mains
cable to the iron, the shivering of the operator would ensure a
multitude of dry joints anyway. Better to wait for the heating to kick
in.

Weller only supplied their soldering stations with silicone cable, but
this was never a factor in choosing the equipment. Should another
maker produce the same with PVC cable, if the cost saving was
channeled through to the final price, then the Weller wouldn't have
been ordered.

AB

PVC is fine. At least until the tip touches it and you have exposed conductors. I suppose cotton covered rubber, the old iron flex, would beat rubber alone.


NT

Try to pay attention, theres a good chap :-)

AB

I do. You're free to post some constructive content now.

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 06:09:43 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 12:54:57 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 05:52:32 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 24 March 2018 10:40:24 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 07:31:43 +0000, Scott M wrote:
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

Exactly, but if contact with heat is not a worry, why silicone cable?

PVC is fine, if you look hard you can find some that will set like a
poker in cold weather, and maybe a 15W litesold might be too light for
PVC, but a 25W iron is o/k with the cable supplied if the
manufacturers choice is PVC.

I have used just about every available 25W iron and used them in all
temperatures with no problem. I suppose some workshops were a bit
frosty first thing, but if it was cold enough to stiffen the mains
cable to the iron, the shivering of the operator would ensure a
multitude of dry joints anyway. Better to wait for the heating to kick
in.

Weller only supplied their soldering stations with silicone cable, but
this was never a factor in choosing the equipment. Should another
maker produce the same with PVC cable, if the cost saving was
channeled through to the final price, then the Weller wouldn't have
been ordered.

AB

PVC is fine. At least until the tip touches it and you have exposed conductors. I suppose cotton covered rubber, the old iron flex, would beat rubber alone.


NT

Try to pay attention, theres a good chap :-)

AB

I do. You're free to post some constructive content now.

They were posted, you obviously didn't read them.

There will be questions later, so try to keep up to speed eh?


AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 10:32:04 +0000, Roger Hayter wrote:

Scott M wrote:

Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Fri, 23 Mar 2018 21:42:57 +0000, Scott M
wrote:

I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable.

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

Que? It's mechanical wear and tear to the conductors, nothing to do with
wrapping the cable round the hot bit!

It is the choice of silicone in the first place that is based on fear of
burning PVC.

Not with mine - it was a small iron being difficult to use in awkward places
with a 'flex' thet almost controlled where the bit went. I rewired 3 of them
and they were much easier to use.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 10:32:04 +0000
(Roger Hayter) wrote:

It is the choice of silicone in the first place that is based on fear
of burning PVC.

No, it's the better flexibility of silicone that is the selling point,
for me anyway.

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Scott M wrote:
I've got a 25W Antex iron with, on the recommendations of those here,
the silicone cable. A lot nicer to use than the standard flex I've
always had before but, in the 18/24 months I've had it, I've had to to
chop the plug off 3 times and remake the end as the cable cores have
broken near the strain relief. This last time I've also had to redo the
element end.

How odd. Antex has been my favourite for years. But a 50 watt low volt
type. Never had cable troubles.

--
*In "Casablanca", Humphrey Bogart never said "Play it again, Sam" *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

--
*Forget about World Peace...Visualize using your turn signal.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Scott M wrote:
This gets coiled up and put in the small tool box and comes out once per
job rather than living on a bench which probably doesn't help.

I'd say an Antex a bit delicate for that sort of use. You want something
like a Henley Solon. ;-)

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some just don't have film*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 18:03:01 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

No.

It may seem like a good idea to use silicone cable on an iron, but the
level of dexterity and skill required for an adequate joint
automatically precludes the random or careless positioning of an iron
so that it burns the flex.

You have to apply a small degree of thought, although it seems the
cooking the flex isn't the reason anyway.

Although the damage to PVC is not a consideration now, the basic
assumption and reasoning are still valid, and could indeed be applied
to a new or intended purchase.

AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 13:41:56 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 06:09:43 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 24 March 2018 12:54:57 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Try to pay attention, theres a good chap :-)

AB

I do. You're free to post some constructive content now.

They were posted, you obviously didn't read them.

There will be questions later, so try to keep up to speed eh?


AB

I see you declined to post any constructive content. No worry.


NT

Soldering iron flex
 

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 18:11:31 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

I don't think they're the cause of it. At least I hope not


NT

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 13:10:38 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 13:41:56 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 06:09:43 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 24 March 2018 12:54:57 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Try to pay attention, theres a good chap :-)

AB

I do. You're free to post some constructive content now.

They were posted, you obviously didn't read them.

There will be questions later, so try to keep up to speed eh?


AB

I see you declined to post any constructive content. No worry.


NT
They were posted, you obviously didn't read them.

There will be questions later, so try to keep up to speed eh?


AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 13:11:33 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 18:11:31 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

I don't think they're the cause of it. At least I hope not


It's a general term, roughly translated it equals "I dont understand
the question or the answer, I don't want to seem a silent idiot, so I
will post a naughty word that I hope everyone will think is a deep
meaningful response, full of mystery to the layman but implying a
profound level of understanding well in excess of anything my brain
cell could actually accomplish"


AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On Saturday, 24 March 2018 20:39:59 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 13:11:33 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 24 March 2018 18:11:31 UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

I don't think they're the cause of it. At least I hope not


It's a general term, roughly translated it equals "I dont understand
the question or the answer, I don't want to seem a silent idiot, so I
will post a naughty word that I hope everyone will think is a deep
meaningful response, full of mystery to the layman but implying a
profound level of understanding well in excess of anything my brain
cell could actually accomplish"


AB

Sometimes. Sometimes not.


NT

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 18:03:01 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

No.

It may seem like a good idea to use silicone cable on an iron, but the
level of dexterity and skill required for an adequate joint
automatically precludes the random or careless positioning of an iron
so that it burns the flex.

If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

--
*I wonder how much deeper the ocean would be without sponges*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 00:23:10 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 18:03:01 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

No.

It may seem like a good idea to use silicone cable on an iron, but the
level of dexterity and skill required for an adequate joint
automatically precludes the random or careless positioning of an iron
so that it burns the flex.

If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

Why dont you read and try to understand the post prior to responding?

You do look an idiot selectively responding to the bits that pop up as
being relavant.

No need to guess where you stand on Trump, Football Thuggery and
Brexit.

It's patently obvious

AB

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 18:03:01 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

No.

It may seem like a good idea to use silicone cable on an iron, but the
level of dexterity and skill required for an adequate joint
automatically precludes the random or careless positioning of an iron
so that it burns the flex.

If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

some cheaper irons have very stiff "flex".

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 04:40:55 +0100, charles
wrote:

In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
On Sat, 24 Mar 2018 18:03:01 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Silicone cable sounds good, but if you are in danger of burning the
cable, it suggests a problem with technique, not materials.

********.

No.

It may seem like a good idea to use silicone cable on an iron, but the
level of dexterity and skill required for an adequate joint
automatically precludes the random or careless positioning of an iron
so that it burns the flex.

If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

some cheaper irons have very stiff "flex".

Temperature dependent, as stated.

As also acknowledged the 15W Litesold [if it's still available] was so
small and pencil like, the flex was too stiff for that.

AB

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

Why dont you read and try to understand the post prior to responding?

Trying to understand you is akin to working out what goes on in Trump's
head.

I'm willing to bet I've done far more soldering than you. To the point of
even building my own solder/desolder station since there was nothing on
the market that suited me 100%.

And the idea of using a flex which melts if accidentally touched with a
hot bit just shows you've zero experience of soldering.

--
*Frustration is trying to find your glasses without your glasses.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 11:19:20 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

Why dont you read and try to understand the post prior to responding?

Trying to understand you is akin to working out what goes on in Trump's
head.

I'm willing to bet I've done far more soldering than you. To the point of
even building my own solder/desolder station since there was nothing on
the market that suited me 100%.

And the idea of using a flex which melts if accidentally touched with a
hot bit just shows you've zero experience of soldering.

Well I,m afraid if you were incapable of guiding the bit to the work
with accuracy, soldering definitely wasn't your game at all.

You have won the bet hands down BTW, I would guess that you are still
feverishly working on your first joint.

Assuming we are talking in terms of 25W or thereabouts and working in
electronics, the required accuracy for a good joint often involved
positioning well below 0.25 mm tolerance.

The other thing was the ability to use what's available. I also
carried a 120W Weller instant and even now fire up a gas iron.

"A bad workman"

I never in my wildest dreams would build my own soldering station,
although I did construct a bit saver once, a diode dropper that was
designed primarily to fill an electronics comic's editorial.

I cannot plaster to save my life, at one time I would have constructed
all manner of improved tools to aid my style. I am older and wiser,
and unfortunately show no improvement with practice.

AB

Soldering iron flex
 

On 25/03/2018 11:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

Why dont you read and try to understand the post prior to responding?

Trying to understand you is akin to working out what goes on in Trump's
head.

I'm willing to bet I've done far more soldering than you. To the point of
even building my own solder/desolder station since there was nothing on
the market that suited me 100%.

And the idea of using a flex which melts if accidentally touched with a
hot bit just shows you've zero experience of soldering.

I was thinking back to the last time I melted a flex. It was probably in
my 20s.

One cause may be the use of 24V irons, where the cord is better behaved.

Either way a little care can go a long way.

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
Assuming we are talking in terms of 25W or thereabouts and working in
electronics, the required accuracy for a good joint often involved
positioning well below 0.25 mm tolerance.

Only an amateur like you would use a 25 watt soldering iron. Pros use
temperature controlled 50 watt or so low voltage types.

--
*Few women admit their age; fewer men act it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Soldering iron flex
 

In article ,
Fredxx wrote:
On 25/03/2018 11:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

Why dont you read and try to understand the post prior to responding?

Trying to understand you is akin to working out what goes on in Trump's
head.

I'm willing to bet I've done far more soldering than you. To the point of
even building my own solder/desolder station since there was nothing on
the market that suited me 100%.

And the idea of using a flex which melts if accidentally touched with a
hot bit just shows you've zero experience of soldering.

I was thinking back to the last time I melted a flex. It was probably in
my 20s.

One cause may be the use of 24V irons, where the cord is better behaved.

Either way a little care can go a long way.

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can also
be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it. Simple
probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering iron
simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work. Or is a total fool.

--
*I must always remember that I'm unique, just like everyone else. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Soldering iron flex
 

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 13:48:03 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Fredxx wrote:
On 25/03/2018 11:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:
If you are so cack handed to try and solder the flex rather than the joint
I'd suggest you give up now...

Why dont you read and try to understand the post prior to responding?

Trying to understand you is akin to working out what goes on in Trump's
head.

I'm willing to bet I've done far more soldering than you. To the point of
even building my own solder/desolder station since there was nothing on
the market that suited me 100%.

And the idea of using a flex which melts if accidentally touched with a
hot bit just shows you've zero experience of soldering.

I was thinking back to the last time I melted a flex. It was probably in
my 20s.

One cause may be the use of 24V irons, where the cord is better behaved.

Either way a little care can go a long way.

But the idea of saving pennies to use a less flexible flex which can also
be damaged by heat is ludicrous.

Oh - the more something get used, the more chance of damage to it. Simple
probability. And someone who only has a 25 watt mains soldering iron
simply doesn't do much in the way of electronics work.

20 years of my career was spent using a 25W mains iron. As they came,
out of the box, the only difference was that we wouldn't connect the
earth.





Or is a total fool.

The Engineering Council may beg to differ


Very much later, I used a soldering station, but this was for third
party service. The costs to the client were high and time was
critical, so the slightest doubt and a board would be stripped and its
semiconductors and electrolytics replaced.

The iron size was the same, but the power rating was much much higher
and needed a conroller to limit the temperature.

Carelessness with any iron would not be excuseable, if the mains cable
was at risk, so would any plastics or other components in the "line of
fire".

As I said, I never ever burnt a cable down to a conductor.

AB