Hi all

I have a pile of logs/ slices of tree trunk in the garden which i have no use for other than to chop up and use for outdoor heating.

This is going to be a one off event so thought i would hire a chainsaw but these seem to be very expensive for even a day (circa £70). I was then going to buy one on eBay which needed a service but when i asked the seller about whether it run (as i have never used one before) he said it run but would need some tweaking to work properly and therefore was not suited for an inexperienced person.

I had assumed that provided it run, all would be well but this reply would imply otherwise and that i should be careful buying a used one if i don't know how to set it up - i guess it could be dangerous?

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.

Anyone have any experience in this? Should i be afraid to buy an eBay one? Anyone any experience with the Lidl one?

Thanks in advance

Lee.

On Tuesday, 21 March 2017 08:24:31 UTC, wrote:
Hi all

I have a pile of logs/ slices of tree trunk in the garden which i have no use for other than to chop up and use for outdoor heating.

This is going to be a one off event so thought i would hire a chainsaw but these seem to be very expensive for even a day (circa £70). I was then going to buy one on eBay which needed a service but when i asked the seller about whether it run (as i have never used one before) he said it run but would need some tweaking to work properly and therefore was not suited for an inexperienced person.

I had assumed that provided it run, all would be well but this reply would imply otherwise and that i should be careful buying a used one if i don't know how to set it up - i guess it could be dangerous?

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.

Anyone have any experience in this? Should i be afraid to buy an eBay one? Anyone any experience with the Lidl one?

Thanks in advance

Lee.

I have an electric chainsaw.
Fine for occasional light/intermitant use.
Do half an hours work & then leave it cool off for a while.
Dunno about ebay.

On 21/03/2017 08:24, wrote:
Hi all

I have a pile of logs/ slices of tree trunk in the garden which i have no use for other than to chop up and use for outdoor heating.

This is going to be a one off event so thought i would hire a chainsaw but these seem to be very expensive for even a day (circa £70). I was then going to buy one on eBay which needed a service but when i asked the seller about whether it run (as i have never used one before) he said it run but would need some tweaking to work properly and therefore was not suited for an inexperienced person.

I had assumed that provided it run, all would be well but this reply would imply otherwise and that i should be careful buying a used one if i don't know how to set it up - i guess it could be dangerous?

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.

Anyone have any experience in this? Should i be afraid to buy an eBay one? Anyone any experience with the Lidl one?

Thanks in advance

Lee.

I've been using my Lidl Electric Chainsaw for 5 or 6 years now. Its on
its second chain as I wore the first away.

Mike

On Tue, 21 Mar 2017 01:24:27 -0700, leenowell wrote:
the seller about whether it run (as i have never used one before)

Be very careful about using a chainsaw if you've never used one before.
They can be easy to use but also very dangerous in a novices hands.

You'll probably need a log holder as well to keep the logs steady when
you cut them. Trying to do it otherwise could really cause a problem.

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.

You'll need to buy chainsaw oil as well to keep the chain lubricated.

I assume you are not going to bother with any PPE? If you aren't, be even
more careful! Bib and brace leggings and a mask are the minimum I'd
suggest.

On 21/03/2017 08:24, wrote:

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.


I got one in Aldi for £30 (double-discounted), probably the same as the
Lidl one (both have an "Oregon" chain I think) and it's been fine for
plenty of relatively light use.

--
Reentrant

On 3/21/2017 8:41 AM, harry wrote:
On Tuesday, 21 March 2017 08:24:31 UTC, wrote:
Hi all

I have a pile of logs/ slices of tree trunk in the garden which i have no use for other than to chop up and use for outdoor heating.

This is going to be a one off event so thought i would hire a chainsaw but these seem to be very expensive for even a day (circa £70). I was then going to buy one on eBay which needed a service but when i asked the seller about whether it run (as i have never used one before) he said it run but would need some tweaking to work properly and therefore was not suited for an inexperienced person.

I had assumed that provided it run, all would be well but this reply would imply otherwise and that i should be careful buying a used one if i don't know how to set it up - i guess it could be dangerous?

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.

Anyone have any experience in this? Should i be afraid to buy an eBay one? Anyone any experience with the Lidl one?

Thanks in advance

Lee.

I have an electric chainsaw.
Fine for occasional light/intermitant use.
Do half an hours work & then leave it cool off for a while.
Dunno about ebay.

Slices of tree trunk? What sort of diameter and thickness?

A chainsaw works best going straight across the grain. If you have had a
tree felled and left in disks 2 foot diameter and a foot thick, don't
expect to cut them up with an electric one. Disks that are not too thick
should be split with a splitting axe, or a wedge, or a proper log splitter.

wrote in message
...
Hi all

I have a pile of logs/ slices of tree trunk in the garden which i have no
use for other than to chop up and use for outdoor heating.

This is going to be a one off event so thought i would hire a chainsaw but
these seem to be very expensive for even a day (circa £70). I was then
going to buy one on eBay which needed a service but when i asked the
seller about whether it run (as i have never used one before) he said it
run but would need some tweaking to work properly and therefore was not
suited for an inexperienced person.

I had assumed that provided it run, all would be well
but this reply would imply otherwise and that i should
be careful buying a used one if i don't know how to
set it up - i guess it could be dangerous?

Yes, chainsaws are one of the most
dangerous common tools around.

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.

Anyone have any experience in this?

Yes, I actually prefer electric ones but for other reasons. Particularly
when up a ladder trimming trees, it can be a pain in the arse to restart
a petrol chainsaw. Never have that problem with an electric one.

Should i be afraid to buy an eBay one?

I have in fact bought a ryobi at a garage/yard
sale and didnt bother to try it before I bought it.
Electric chainsaws are very simple devices and
I obviously knew where he lived and could have
returned it if he had lied about it working fine.

Anyone any experience with the Lidl one?

Not in my case.

On Tuesday, 21 March 2017 08:24:31 UTC, wrote:
Hi all

I have a pile of logs/ slices of tree trunk in the garden which i have no use for other than to chop up and use for outdoor heating.

This is going to be a one off event so thought i would hire a chainsaw but these seem to be very expensive for even a day (circa £70). I was then going to buy one on eBay which needed a service but when i asked the seller about whether it run (as i have never used one before) he said it run but would need some tweaking to work properly and therefore was not suited for an inexperienced person.

I had assumed that provided it run, all would be well but this reply would imply otherwise and that i should be careful buying a used one if i don't know how to set it up - i guess it could be dangerous?

So... Now looking at a new electric one from Lidl £50.

Anyone have any experience in this? Should i be afraid to buy an eBay one? Anyone any experience with the Lidl one?

Thanks in advance

Lee.

Screwfix or Toolstation had a £35 one last time I looked. As said, chainsaws are dangerous tools and you _must_ know what the musts and nevers are.


NT

Thanks very much all for your valuable thoughts. I have a mixture of branches ( say 75mm diameter) and slices of a felled tree (around 300mm diameter and 75mm thick). All came from some tree work i had done some time ago. The tree that was felled had a load of ivy on it which is easily removed by hand now.

On Tue, 21 Mar 2017 12:18:54 -0700, leenowell wrote:

Thanks very much all for your valuable thoughts. I have a mixture of
branches ( say 75mm diameter) and slices of a felled tree (around 300mm
diameter and 75mm thick). All came from some tree work i had done some
time ago. The tree that was felled had a load of ivy on it which is
easily removed by hand now.

No need for a chainsaw with any of that. The rings will split easily
with a splitting axe and it will be a lot safer for you.

Branches use a bow saw if they are too long.

On Tue, 21 Mar 2017 18:34:29 -0500, Mark Allread wrote:

No need for a chainsaw with any of that. The rings will split easily
with a splitting axe and it will be a lot safer for you.

+1 But why on earth 75 mm thick/long? 230 mm (9") would have been
better. Just the right size for most wood burners. Even if the OP
hasn't got one I'm sure some one would have paid to have them, split
or not.

Branches use a bow saw if they are too long.

Or a powered recipricating saw, takes the effort out of cutting with
far less risk than a chain saw.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 21 Mar 2017 14:08:43 +0000, LSR wrote:

I got one in Aldi for £30 (double-discounted), probably the same as the
Lidl one (both have an "Oregon" chain I think) and it's been fine for
plenty of relatively light use.

I think I have that one, too.

Get a suitable chain file, and learn how to use it. There will be directions
with the saw. I inherited a chain that had been "professionally sharpened":
freehand with an angle grinder by the looks of it (teeth blue, length
differences of 2mm, ground into the base of the tooth, ...), and the cost was
about what a new chain would have cost off ebay (albeit w/o postage).

Biodegradeable chain oil will gum up in the year it takes for you to use the saw
again. Drain it after use.

There is no star gear thing in the tip of the bar; I add spray motorbike chain
grease there. Still got a touch of blue there... The chain tensioner is
somewhere between fiddly and a nasty cheap POS. The stock chain is a benign one,
for "occasional users" (like me), so low recoil/kick.

Beware that they are dangerous: the whole thing can kick back, the chain can
break, whipping around, the chain can come off, the a single touch of a nail,
dirt, ingrown rock will dull the chain. Get on Ubend and look at a few safety
videos.

All in all, it's a good value for money.


Thomas Prufer

On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:25:06 +0000, Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Tue, 21 Mar 2017 18:34:29 -0500, Mark Allread wrote:

No need for a chainsaw with any of that. The rings will split easily
with a splitting axe and it will be a lot safer for you.

+1 But why on earth 75 mm thick/long? 230 mm (9") would have been
better.

Yeah - I assumed a typo there as I can't see anyone ringing down to that
length (75mm)

Just the right size for most wood burners. Even if the OP hasn't
got one I'm sure some one would have paid to have them, split or not.


Quite! - to use them to 'heat the open air' is a nonsense and I am now
beginning to wonder if it was a genuine request.

Branches use a bow saw if they are too long.

Or a powered recipricating saw, takes the effort out of cutting with far
less risk than a chain saw.

It doesn't keep you as warm though :-)

Mark Allread wrote:

Dave Liquorice wrote:

why on earth 75 mm thick/long? 230 mm (9") would have been better.

I assumed a typo there as I can't see anyone ringing down to that
length (75mm)

To make those fancy "wooden stepping stones"?

On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 11:04:35 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

Mark Allread wrote:

Dave Liquorice wrote:

why on earth 75 mm thick/long? 230 mm (9") would have been better.

I assumed a typo there as I can't see anyone ringing down to that
length (75mm)

To make those fancy "wooden stepping stones"?

:-) Maybe. Its not something that had occurred to me before you
suggested it.

OP could flog 'em on ebay as such and save all his effort and cost and
*make his fortune*.

Ok amusingly we have all just discovered how rubbish I am at estimating size 😀😀😀 I wasn't at home when I sent the original request so guessed!!!

So now I have measured them. They are around 350mm (14") thick and diameter! Looking at them they are actually starting to split a bit so maybe the axe option would work. To be honest i don't relish the thought of using a chainsaw anyway. Is this the sort of axe you mean?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...maul-8lb/87268

Any advice on best way to split them (disks) with the axe? I assume I hit the cracks first but for those without cracks should I aim for the grain or across the grain?

Thanks again

Lee.

On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:47:16 PM UTC, wrote:
Ok amusingly we have all just discovered how rubbish I am at estimating size 😀😀😀 I wasn't at home when I sent the original request so guessed!!!

So now I have measured them. They are around 350mm (14") thick and diameter! Looking at them they are actually starting to split a bit so maybe the axe option would work. To be honest i don't relish the thought of using a chainsaw anyway. Is this the sort of axe you mean?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...maul-8lb/87268

Any advice on best way to split them (disks) with the axe? I assume I hit the cracks first but for those without cracks should I aim for the grain or across the grain?

Thanks again

Lee.

If you have a sledge hammer already, these are cheaper and very effective:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...splitter/51334

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

Jonathan

I have one of the big axes already but never used it. Gave it a 2 min try just now and it worked a treat. Much better and easier than I had anticipated. Now I know what I am doing this weekend. Thanks all.

On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:35:34 -0700, lee wrote:

I have one of the big axes already but never used it. Gave it a 2 min
try just now and it worked a treat. Much better and easier than I had
anticipated. Now I know what I am doing this weekend. Thanks all.

Have fun but remember to count your toes before and after you do the
splitting

On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:35:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I have one of the big axes already but never used it. Gave it a 2 min try just now and it worked a treat. Much better and easier than I had anticipated. Now I know what I am doing this weekend. Thanks all.

if your hands are not used to manual work wear some gloves , blisters
are easily come by.
You will also find why fire wood warms you twice, 1 st when you cut or
chop it 2nd when you burn it.

G.Harman

On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan
wrote:

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

And maybe use a band (rope, string, old pushbike inner tube, ...)

https://youtu.be/2vThcK-idm0


Thomas Prufer

Jonathan Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:47:16 PM UTC, wrote:
Ok amusingly we have all just discovered how rubbish I am at estimating size ?????? I wasn't at home when I sent the original request so guessed!!!

So now I have measured them. They are around 350mm (14") thick and diameter! Looking at them they are actually starting to split a bit so maybe the axe option would work. To be honest i don't relish the thought of using a chainsaw anyway. Is this the sort of axe you mean?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...maul-8lb/87268

Any advice on best way to split them (disks) with the axe? I assume I hit the cracks first but for those without cracks should I aim for the grain or across the grain?

Thanks again

Lee.

If you have a sledge hammer already, these are cheaper and very effective:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...splitter/51334

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

Jonathan


I never got these to work as intended.
still in the shed rusting.

Splitting maul. Good workout :-)
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

"Thomas Prufer" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan
wrote:

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

And maybe use a band (rope, string, old pushbike inner tube, ...)

https://youtu.be/2vThcK-idm0

Brilliant.

That video is incredible.

On 22/03/2017 17:54, Thomas Prufer wrote:
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan
wrote:

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

And maybe use a band (rope, string, old pushbike inner tube, ...)

https://youtu.be/2vThcK-idm0


Thomas Prufer


And eye protection. I'm surprised none of the axe men in the video wore
eye protection. A neighbour lost an eye to a splinter whilst splitting
logs with an axe.

Mike

On Wednesday, 22 March 2017 18:41:40 UTC, jim wrote:
Jonathan Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:47:16 PM UTC, wrote:
Ok amusingly we have all just discovered how rubbish I am at estimating size ?????? I wasn't at home when I sent the original request so guessed!!!

So now I have measured them. They are around 350mm (14") thick and diameter! Looking at them they are actually starting to split a bit so maybe the axe option would work. To be honest i don't relish the thought of using a chainsaw anyway. Is this the sort of axe you mean?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...maul-8lb/87268

Any advice on best way to split them (disks) with the axe? I assume I hit the cracks first but for those without cracks should I aim for the grain or across the grain?

Thanks again

Lee.

If you have a sledge hammer already, these are cheaper and very effective:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...splitter/51334

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

Jonathan


I never got these to work as intended.
still in the shed rusting.

Splitting maul. Good workout :-)
--
Jim K

It depends on what sort of wood you have and how many knots there are.

harry Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 22 March 2017 18:41:40 UTC, jim wrote:
Jonathan Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:47:16 PM UTC, wrote:
Ok amusingly we have all just discovered how rubbish I am at estimating size ?????? I wasn't at home when I sent the original request so guessed!!!

So now I have measured them. They are around 350mm (14") thick and diameter! Looking at them they are actually starting to split a bit so maybe the axe option would work. To be honest i don't relish the thought of using a chainsaw anyway. Is this the sort of axe you mean?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...maul-8lb/87268

Any advice on best way to split them (disks) with the axe? I assume I hit the cracks first but for those without cracks should I aim for the grain or across the grain?

Thanks again

Lee.

If you have a sledge hammer already, these are cheaper and very effective:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...splitter/51334

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

Jonathan


I never got these to work as intended.
still in the shed rusting.

Splitting maul. Good workout :-)
--
Jim K

It depends on what sort of wood you have and how many knots there are.


What sort of wood do they work with?

--
Jim K

On 23/03/17 15:25, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 22 March 2017 18:41:40 UTC, jim wrote:
Jonathan Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:47:16 PM UTC, wrote:
Ok amusingly we have all just discovered how rubbish I am at estimating size ?????? I wasn't at home when I sent the original request so guessed!!!

So now I have measured them. They are around 350mm (14") thick and diameter! Looking at them they are actually starting to split a bit so maybe the axe option would work. To be honest i don't relish the thought of using a chainsaw anyway. Is this the sort of axe you mean?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...maul-8lb/87268

Any advice on best way to split them (disks) with the axe? I assume I hit the cracks first but for those without cracks should I aim for the grain or across the grain?

Thanks again

Lee.

If you have a sledge hammer already, these are cheaper and very effective:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...splitter/51334

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

Jonathan


I never got these to work as intended.
still in the shed rusting.

Splitting maul. Good workout :-)
--
Jim K

It depends on what sort of wood you have and how many knots there are.


What sort of wood
do they work with?

straight grained that splits. Oak, ash. beech, maple, sycamore all good.
Hawthorn and blackthorn less so. Willow and poplar total nightmare.

--
If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
...I'd spend it on drink.

Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

On 3/22/2017 4:57 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:35:34 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I have one of the big axes already but never used it. Gave it a 2 min try just now and it worked a treat. Much better and easier than I had anticipated. Now I know what I am doing this weekend. Thanks all.

if your hands are not used to manual work wear some gloves , blisters
are easily come by.
You will also find why fire wood warms you twice, 1 st when you cut or
chop it 2nd when you burn it.

G.Harman

+1 for gloves, I like the knitted ones with just the fingers and palms
dipped in rubber, keeping the backs clear to reduce sweating.

and warms you a third time loading it into bags, carting it indoors, and
stacking in the inglenook around the wood-burner.

On 3/22/2017 10:47 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"Thomas Prufer" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan

wrote:

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

And maybe use a band (rope, string, old pushbike inner tube, ...)

https://youtu.be/2vThcK-idm0

Brilliant.

I keep meaning to make myself one....

The Natural Philosopher Wrote in message:
On 23/03/17 15:25, jim wrote:
harry Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, 22 March 2017 18:41:40 UTC, jim wrote:
Jonathan Wrote in message:
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:47:16 PM UTC, wrote:
Ok amusingly we have all just discovered how rubbish I am at estimating size ?????? I wasn't at home when I sent the original request so guessed!!!

So now I have measured them. They are around 350mm (14") thick and diameter! Looking at them they are actually starting to split a bit so maybe the axe option would work. To be honest i don't relish the thought of using a chainsaw anyway. Is this the sort of axe you mean?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...maul-8lb/87268

Any advice on best way to split them (disks) with the axe? I assume I hit the cracks first but for those without cracks should I aim for the grain or across the grain?

Thanks again

Lee.

If you have a sledge hammer already, these are cheaper and very effective:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-...splitter/51334

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

Jonathan


I never got these to work as intended.
still in the shed rusting.

Splitting maul. Good workout :-)
--
Jim K

It depends on what sort of wood you have and how many knots there are.


What sort of wood
do they work with?

straight grained that splits. Oak, ash. beech, maple, sycamore all good.
Hawthorn and blackthorn less so. Willow and poplar total nightmare.


Sycamore, oak, beech & some hawthorn here, with splitting maul &
electro-hydraulic splitter on bits that'll fit in...

Wood grenade things are crap ime.

--
Jim K

"newshound" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 3/22/2017 10:47 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"Thomas Prufer" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan

wrote:

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

And maybe use a band (rope, string, old pushbike inner tube, ...)

https://youtu.be/2vThcK-idm0

Brilliant.

I keep meaning to make myself one....

Yeah, I certainly would if I split wood anymore.

Havent done that more than 55 years or more.

In message ,
newshound writes
On 3/22/2017 10:47 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"Thomas Prufer" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan

wrote:

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

And maybe use a band (rope, string, old pushbike inner tube, ...)

https://youtu.be/2vThcK-idm0

Brilliant.

I keep meaning to make myself one....

Hmm.. That has to be the straightest grained, square cut, knot free
timber ever encountered.

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message ,
newshound writes
On 3/22/2017 10:47 PM, Rod Speed wrote:


"Thomas Prufer" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 08:15:12 -0700 (PDT), Jonathan

wrote:

You are right start near an existing split and work from there.

And maybe use a band (rope, string, old pushbike inner tube, ...)

https://youtu.be/2vThcK-idm0

Brilliant.

I keep meaning to make myself one....

Hmm.. That has to be the straightest grained, square cut, knot free
timber ever encountered.


Indeed! Not often I deal with wood like that. ;-)

Still a neat idea though..

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 22:40:45 +0000, newshound wrote:

+1 for gloves, I like the knitted ones with just the fingers and palms
dipped in rubber, keeping the backs clear to reduce sweating.

I find that the rubber part doesn't last long before it separates from
the glove itself.

I've now got a few pairs of knitted gloves with bits of rubber on them!

On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 19:27:18 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

What sort of wood do they work with?

Any depends how much effort you expend whacking the log. Knots will
split round, forks forget it.

straight grained that splits. Oak, ash. beech, maple, sycamore all good.
Hawthorn and blackthorn less so. Willow and poplar total nightmare.

For beech (and maybe the others as well) split it green. Seasoned
beech goes very hard. It'll still split but needs far more effort.


--
Cheers
Dave.

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 05:01:11 -0500, Mark Allread wrote:

+1 for gloves, I like the knitted ones with just the fingers and
palms
dipped in rubber, keeping the backs clear to reduce sweating.

I find that the rubber part doesn't last long before it separates from
the glove itself.

Best gloves I've come across are Tornado Contour Avenger. "Seamless
lightweight nylon gloves with technically blended palm coating". They
stand up to drystone walling, have good grip, but still light enough
not to really mess up your dexterity.

Box of 10 pairs approx £12 inc from CostCo.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 22:42:16 +0000, newshound
wrote:

I keep meaning to make myself one....

A better (?) idea:

https://youtu.be/2bVAAx3mMKY


Thomas Prufer

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 11:23:10 +0000, Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 05:01:11 -0500, Mark Allread wrote:

+1 for gloves, I like the knitted ones with just the fingers and
palms
dipped in rubber, keeping the backs clear to reduce sweating.

I find that the rubber part doesn't last long before it separates from
the glove itself.

Best gloves I've come across are Tornado Contour Avenger. "Seamless
lightweight nylon gloves with technically blended palm coating". They
stand up to drystone walling, have good grip, but still light enough not
to really mess up your dexterity.

Box of 10 pairs approx £12 inc from CostCo.

Now that is cheap! Online they are c 20 UKP (18.80 on Amazon by the look
of it) but no Costco near me.

On Fri, 24 Mar 2017 09:01:04 -0500, Mark Allread wrote:

Best gloves I've come across are Tornado Contour Avenger.
"Seamless
lightweight nylon gloves with technically blended palm coating".
They
stand up to drystone walling, have good grip, but still light
enough
not to really mess up your dexterity.

Box of 10 pairs approx £12 inc from CostCo.

Now that is cheap! Online they are c 20 UKP (18.80 on Amazon by the
look of it)

Cheap by comparison to cheap, not so good, gloves from the likes of
Screwfix, Tool Station etc.

... but no Costco near me.

CostCo is 50 miles from us, don't go very often and try an combine it
with other things. CostCo do have a "direct" service but they don't
have Tornado's listed.

--
Cheers
Dave.