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OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?
--
Tim Lamb
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Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Underseal?
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"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...

OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn
stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near
flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?



Wire brush off and replace with - NEW BRAKE PIPE ! - you may be driving
behind me

Andrew

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Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Grease?
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"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb


The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories
from last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a
fail. Even if the paper "certificate" is incomplete advisories are
also held on the central VOSA database. The bit of paper you get
rather than being a "certificate" is in fact simply a printout
of this.


michael adams

....




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On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.

Even if he did, the only thing that will define a pass or a fail is
whether the item meets the "reasons for rejection" criteria in the
tester's manual - TODAY - as it's parked in front of him.

B'sides, advisories are only things the tester thinks you need to know,
but which have passed the test. Maybe they're things that aren't
testable. Maybe they're a reason why he couldn't perform part of a test
as fully as he might.

One common advisory is "undertray fitted" - because it means the tester
can't fully see the structure of the vehicle.

Another common advisory is "child seat fitted" - because it means the
tester can't fully test the seatbelt on that seat.
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On 18/05/2016 13:43, michael adams wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb



Do nothing. An MOT advisory is just that, its not a requirement to
rectify something. Any attempt to cover up the fault will only annoy the
tester. If anything just clean the area.

Mike

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Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Just cut out the corroded pieces and replace with new, your local car
accessories place will put the ends on that you require and also supply the
olives for the existing pipe, it's just like normal copper plumbing but on a
smaller scale. They'll also have the tool for splaying the open end of the
existing pipe.

I replaced all my rear brake pipes on a 52 Vectra a few years ago, total
cost about £30 and half a day


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In message , Andrew Mawson
writes
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
.. .

OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?



Wire brush off and replace with - NEW BRAKE PIPE ! - you may be driving
behind me


Vauxhall Zafiras don't go all that fast:-)

--
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In message ,
Muddymike writes
On 18/05/2016 13:43, michael adams wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the
year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb



Do nothing. An MOT advisory is just that, its not a requirement to
rectify something. Any attempt to cover up the fault will only annoy
the tester. If anything just clean the area.


OK. I can manage that.

--
Tim Lamb


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"Adrian" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers brake failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

....


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In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the time it
starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like? They're not
expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You can get them
made from material which doesn't rust.

--
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On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 2:29:24 PM UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers brake failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

...


Your taking too long term a view of the MOT test...

It certifies the vehicle as fit for purposes of test at time of test, not a day , a week, a month or 12 months later.

Inspector failing items that are fit at time of test will soon get it in the neck for not following DoT instructions.

DoT seems to think that 2 year test interval would be a good idea....
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


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"Adam Aglionby" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 2:29:24 PM UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.

Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers brake
failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

...


Your taking too long term a view of the MOT test...

It certifies the vehicle as fit for purposes of test at time of test, not a day , a
week, a month or 12 months later.


Which rests on a number of assumptions. Namely that parts which are functioning correctly
on the date of the test can reasonably be expected barring accidents to function
correctly
for an unspecified period into the future. With possible exceptions such as electrical
components and electronic systems which may fail at any time.

An advisory in respect of corrosion, as in this case, again rests on the assumption that
by its very nature unless treated or the conditions which gave rise to it change, that
that corrosion can be expected to get worse. Such as to possibly lead to a failure
in twelve months time..


Inspector failing items that are fit at time of test will soon get it in the neck for
not following DoT instructions.


All other things being equal, without treatment or a change in conditions the process of
corrosion
in slightly corroded brake pipes can't be expected to have slowed down in the intervening
year.

24 months ago if the MOT inspector is to be believed, there was no corrosion.

12 months ago there was slight corrosion.

And today ?


michael adams

....




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michael adams wrote:

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb


The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories
from last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a
fail.


Not all advisories necessarily indicate work that will need doing
before the next year's MOT. For example my bike MOT sometimes gets:-
"Steering headbearing has slight free play (2.2.2)". As the tester
always says that's really down to how tight one prefers to have it.

--
Chris Green
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"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the time it
starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?


Less rusty as less oxygen.

--
Jim K


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In article ,
Phil L wrote:
Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why
they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is
outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


Copper is often extremely expensive, and can work harden. Cupra-nickel is
the more usual material for 'posh' ones. But decent steel can outlast the
vehicle anyway.

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In article ,
wrote:
Not all advisories necessarily indicate work that will need doing
before the next year's MOT. For example my bike MOT sometimes gets:-
"Steering headbearing has slight free play (2.2.2)". As the tester
always says that's really down to how tight one prefers to have it.


I get an advisory most years about slight play in the front wheel bearings
on my SD1. Of course there is slight play. They are adjustable, and that's
how they are set. If you set them with no play, they overheat and spew out
the grease...

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wrote in message ...
michael adams wrote:

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb


The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories
from last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a
fail.


Not all advisories necessarily indicate work that will need doing
before the next year's MOT. For example my bike MOT sometimes gets:-
"Steering headbearing has slight free play (2.2.2)". As the tester
always says that's really down to how tight one prefers to have it.


Indeed. But of those which do indicate work needs to be done,
in this case pointing out slight corrosion which might benefit from
treatment at the very least, it makes sense for a tester to make
note of those areas, before working his way through the test.

In cases like yours, it's probably simply a case of bringing
the free play to the riders attention. Some riders as the tester
said may well already know about it and deliberately
set their bikes up that way. Others however might not have
a clue about such things, and so will get the bearing tightened
up so as to set their minds at rest.


michael adams

....





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On 18/05/2016 15:59, Phil L wrote:

For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


Kunifer surely?

Anyway you clearly have no idea how much costs are pared on new cars :-)

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On 18/05/16 12:39, Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


No, get the bloody things replaced. I've had brake failure..


--
"I am inclined to tell the truth and dislike people who lie consistently.
This makes me unfit for the company of people of a Left persuasion, and
all women"
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On 18/05/16 14:03, Phil L wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Just cut out the corroded pieces and replace with new, your local car
accessories place will put the ends on that you require and also supply the
olives for the existing pipe, it's just like normal copper plumbing but on a
smaller scale. They'll also have the tool for splaying the open end of the
existing pipe.

I replaced all my rear brake pipes on a 52 Vectra a few years ago, total
cost about £30 and half a day


Yup. Only irritating bit is needing a mate to push the brake pedal when
you bleed.

And or snapping off the nipples on ten year old cylinders and calipers
when you try..


--
The biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.

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On 18/05/16 15:59, Phil L wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


No, it isn't.

And if you had worked trying to get a seal on 10mm copper oil pipe on a
central heating boiler, you would know why.


--
The biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.

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On 18/05/16 15:59, Phil L wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.



Except it is prone to work hardening due to vibration and fracturing -
as I found out from personal experience.


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In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I replaced all my rear brake pipes on a 52 Vectra a few years ago, total
cost about £30 and half a day


Yup. Only irritating bit is needing a mate to push the brake pedal when
you bleed.


Eazibleed.

And or snapping off the nipples on ten year old cylinders and calipers
when you try..


Sensible people will change the fluid every 3 years or so. Helping prevent
nipples seizing.

--
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 18/05/16 15:59, Phil L wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the
year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly
corroded near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly
deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?

Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming.
You can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see
why they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel
is outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


No, it isn't.


Ebay results:

'Brake pipe copper' = 4,819

'Brake pipe Kunifer' = 621

So there's about 8 times as many copper pipes as kunifer.


And if you had worked trying to get a seal on 10mm copper oil pipe on
a central heating boiler, you would know why.


I've never needed to, but I've replaced lots of brake pipes on cars, all of
them copper and none of them were any trouble at all.


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In message , jim
writes
"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the time it
starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?


Less rusty as less oxygen.


And road salt.

Ford seem to think their brake fluid absorbs water from the air and
require a 2 year change!

Anyway, I'm going to brush off the dirt and see what they have to say on
Friday.


--
Tim Lamb
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In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 18/05/16 12:39, Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


No, get the bloody things replaced. I've had brake failure..


Regular event on early Minis. Usually snatchy brakes from corroded
cylinders though.

I think a limited mileage, stored under cover slightly corroded pipe is
not going fail totally in 12 months.

I'll report what they have to say.



--
Tim Lamb
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On 18/05/16 17:45, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
On 18/05/16 12:39, Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


No, get the bloody things replaced. I've had brake failure..


Regular event on early Minis. Usually snatchy brakes from corroded
cylinders though.

I think a limited mileage, stored under cover slightly corroded pipe is
not going fail totally in 12 months.

The point is there is no 'partial failure' mode with brakes. Either the
pipes hold up to the pressure, or you have either no brakes, or, if its
a dual master cylinder, one diagonal pair of brakes only.

And all there is left is a hand brake and the engine braking.
Ive been lucky. Ive had front suspension fail, and brakes fail and both
were at low speed.

Ive also had a bonnet blow up in my face at 70mph in the fast lane of
the A1. Not so nice.

I am as parsimonious on unnecessary repairs as the next man, but brakes
I don't mess with. Typically even at garage rates, they are not
expensive to fix.


I'll be fitting two new discs and pads on the Hippo* in a few months,
not because it wouldn't pass a test, but because I've noticed the
braking isn't quite all there when I need it.



I'll report what they have to say.



*https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/12-jpg.3353/


--
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a car with the cramped public exposure of €¨an airplane.€

Dennis Miller



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Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
In message , jim
writes
"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?

Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the time it
starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?


Less rusty as less oxygen.


And road salt.

Ford seem to think their brake fluid absorbs water from the air and
require a 2 year change!



Well the regular stuff is hygroscopic but whether it can
conceivably absorb enough to do any bother is a moot point!



Anyway, I'm going to brush off the dirt and see what they have to say on
Friday.


--
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In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
Ford seem to think their brake fluid absorbs water from the air and
require a 2 year change!


If you do regular changes, there's no doubt in my mind the seals etc will
last longer. But may not be worth the effort if you change your car every
couple of years.

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"Adam Aglionby" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 2:29:24 PM UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.

Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers
brake failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for
slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

...


Your taking too long term a view of the MOT test...

It certifies the vehicle as fit for purposes of test at time of test, not
a day , a week, a month or 12 months later.

Inspector failing items that are fit at time of test will soon get it in
the neck for not following DoT instructions.

DoT seems to think that 2 year test interval would be a good idea....


do they

why didn't they change it them

who was it who "voted" against that idea when it *was* up for discussion?

tim



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"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why
they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is
outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


for the sake of an extra 10 pounds why don't they do this?

and for another 10 pounds why don't they do this?

and soon you are up to 500 pounds extra

tim



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On Wed, 18 May 2016 14:29:10 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP
suffers brake failure in the near future and it transpires that there
was an advisory for slightly corroded brake pipes for the previous year,
then without having paid particulat attention to this, possibly as a
result of the pipes being covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.


It really doesn't make any difference whether there's an advisory from
the previous year or not. He should be checking the brake pipes...

And, as I said, he doesn't KNOW if there was an advisory or not the
previous year.


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On Wed, 18 May 2016 17:38:34 +0100, Phil L wrote:

For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why
they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is
outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


No, it isn't.


Ebay results:

'Brake pipe copper' = 4,819

'Brake pipe Kunifer' = 621

So there's about 8 times as many copper pipes as kunifer.


Or a lot of people are incorrectly referring to cupro-nickel as "copper".

At least, I _hope_ that's what it is...
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On Wed, 18 May 2016 17:59:55 +0100, jim wrote:

Ford seem to think their brake fluid absorbs water from the air and
require a 2 year change!


Well the regular stuff is hygroscopic but whether it can
conceivably absorb enough to do any bother is a moot point!


It can, and it does - and it should be changed at two-year intervals.

Neglecting changing DOT fluid is the single biggest reason for replacing
brake and clutch cylinders and calipers, not to mention the risk of the
fluid boiling.
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On 18/05/2016 12:39, Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


You need to satisfy yourself that it's just surface rust, and that the
corrosion hasn't weakened the pipe. Then wire brush it and wipe it with
an oily rag.
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Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , jim
writes
"Dave Plowman (News)" Wrote in message:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the
year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly
corroded near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly
deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake
pipe rust and coat with..?

Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?


Less rusty as less oxygen.


And road salt.

Ford seem to think their brake fluid absorbs water from the air and
require a 2 year change!


At a main dealer of course.
More ********.

Anyway, I'm going to brush off the dirt and see what they have to say
on Friday.


I used a wire brush and grease for 5 years on my Mk 3 Cortina. It passed on
the brake pipes every time.


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On 18/05/2016 19:33, Adrian wrote:
Neglecting changing DOT fluid is the single biggest reason for replacing
brake and clutch cylinders and calipers, not to mention the risk of the
fluid boiling.


Why does not changing the fluid make it more likely to boil? I'd
understand if you said that any water in the fluid could turn to
steam... Or if I were convinced that any water content would cause
depression of boiling point...

Not in the least arguing against changing the fluid.

--
Rod
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