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OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?
--
Tim Lamb
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Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Grease?
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jim a écrit :
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Grease?


I agree, the thickest most waterproof grease you can lay your hands on.

Check it is ONLY surface rust, clean it off, paint it with oil, then
grease. This is as advised by my MOT inspector and it said it is no
reason for an inspector to be suspcious - they can feel the condition
easily through the grease.

Underseal will only seal in the moisure and rust - the rusting will
continue under the underseal, besides it is a reason for the MOT guy to
be suspcious.
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On 18/05/16 21:25, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
jim a écrit :
Tim Lamb Wrote in message:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Grease?


I agree, the thickest most waterproof grease you can lay your hands on.


I talked to the MOT cahp at te grafe.

What they do, is wash off all te grease and even brush the pipes with a
wire brush to see if the corrosion is severe enough to warrant failure.

The ministry approved chap who retested my car after a garage tried to
use the MOT to scam me, said that they are within their rights to fail
anything they cant tell ought to pass as well.

(By the way, you are within your rights to remove a car from a garage
even if it has no MOT, and they have failed it, if the purpose of taking
it there was to get an MOT, and if it still *has* an MOT, then retaining
it on the grounds that it is 'unsafe' until said garage spends several
thousand on it (unnecessarily) is actually a criminal offence of
extortion).



Check it is ONLY surface rust, clean it off, paint it with oil, then
grease. This is as advised by my MOT inspector and it said it is no
reason for an inspector to be suspcious - they can feel the condition
easily through the grease.

Underseal will only seal in the moisure and rust - the rusting will
continue under the underseal, besides it is a reason for the MOT guy to
be suspcious.


Or fail it outright.

I think getting my rear brake pipes replaced last time was around £80.
I've done it myself when younger on a Saturday afternoon for about £20
including a brake flare tool.


A small price to pay - less than a tank of diesel then - for knowing
that they were sound, and that the brake fluid in the system had also
largely been flushed out.

--
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private property.

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Living in Los Angeles a couple of decades ago, I restored the engine on
a ~1960 Dodge Dart Seneca, a slant-6 with push-button automatic
transmission (like a blender - this car was marketed at women). As it
turned out, I should have restored the brakes too.

I had left the country, and my wife, who was due to follow me, had sold
our other car and was using the Dodge for the last few weeks. She was
staying with a friend who lived at the top of a very steep road with a
roundabout at the bottom (this is in the city). One morning she went
out, hopped in the car and headed down the road. Halfway down she
discovered that there were no brakes. Showing admirable presence of
mind, she pushed the reverse button on the blender controls. Amazingly
it went into reverse, making a horrendous noise but bringing the car to
a halt. If it hadn't the only option would have been to steer into the
cars parked along the road.

Mechanical carelessness saved by good luck.


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Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Underseal?
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"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...

OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn
stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near
flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?



Wire brush off and replace with - NEW BRAKE PIPE ! - you may be driving
behind me

Andrew

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In message , Andrew Mawson
writes
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
.. .

OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?



Wire brush off and replace with - NEW BRAKE PIPE ! - you may be driving
behind me


Vauxhall Zafiras don't go all that fast:-)

--
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Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andrew Mawson
writes
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...

OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the
year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?



Wire brush off and replace with - NEW BRAKE PIPE ! - you may be
driving behind me


Vauxhall Zafiras don't go all that fast:-)

They don't need to if you hit a pedestrian or a child. I agree
with Andrew, replace them with copper.
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On Thu, 19 May 2016 10:09:54 +0100, Capitol wrote:

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Andrew Mawson
writes
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...

OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the
year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Wire brush off and replace with - NEW BRAKE PIPE ! - you may be
driving behind me


Vauxhall Zafiras don't go all that fast:-)

They don't need to if you hit a pedestrian or a child. I agree
with Andrew, replace them with copper.


If he hits a pedestrian or child, it means they were crossing without looking.

--
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Wait till a bunch of girls walk past a phone box.
Phone the phone box.
When one answers, ask to speak to the ugliest one they've got.


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On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:11:04 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...

OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn
stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near
flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?



Wire brush off and replace with - NEW BRAKE PIPE ! - you may be driving
behind me


The back of your car is stronger than the front of his.

--
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"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb


The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories
from last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a
fail. Even if the paper "certificate" is incomplete advisories are
also held on the central VOSA database. The bit of paper you get
rather than being a "certificate" is in fact simply a printout
of this.


michael adams

....


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On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.

Even if he did, the only thing that will define a pass or a fail is
whether the item meets the "reasons for rejection" criteria in the
tester's manual - TODAY - as it's parked in front of him.

B'sides, advisories are only things the tester thinks you need to know,
but which have passed the test. Maybe they're things that aren't
testable. Maybe they're a reason why he couldn't perform part of a test
as fully as he might.

One common advisory is "undertray fitted" - because it means the tester
can't fully see the structure of the vehicle.

Another common advisory is "child seat fitted" - because it means the
tester can't fully test the seatbelt on that seat.
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"Adrian" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers brake failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

....


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On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 2:29:24 PM UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers brake failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

...


Your taking too long term a view of the MOT test...

It certifies the vehicle as fit for purposes of test at time of test, not a day , a week, a month or 12 months later.

Inspector failing items that are fit at time of test will soon get it in the neck for not following DoT instructions.

DoT seems to think that 2 year test interval would be a good idea....


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"Adam Aglionby" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 2:29:24 PM UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.

Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers brake
failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

...


Your taking too long term a view of the MOT test...

It certifies the vehicle as fit for purposes of test at time of test, not a day , a
week, a month or 12 months later.


Which rests on a number of assumptions. Namely that parts which are functioning correctly
on the date of the test can reasonably be expected barring accidents to function
correctly
for an unspecified period into the future. With possible exceptions such as electrical
components and electronic systems which may fail at any time.

An advisory in respect of corrosion, as in this case, again rests on the assumption that
by its very nature unless treated or the conditions which gave rise to it change, that
that corrosion can be expected to get worse. Such as to possibly lead to a failure
in twelve months time..


Inspector failing items that are fit at time of test will soon get it in the neck for
not following DoT instructions.


All other things being equal, without treatment or a change in conditions the process of
corrosion
in slightly corroded brake pipes can't be expected to have slowed down in the intervening
year.

24 months ago if the MOT inspector is to be believed, there was no corrosion.

12 months ago there was slight corrosion.

And today ?


michael adams

....


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"Adam Aglionby" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 2:29:24 PM UTC+1, michael adams wrote:
"Adrian" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 18 May 2016 13:43:44 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.

Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP suffers
brake failure
in the near future and it transpires that there was an advisory for
slightly
corroded brake pipes for the previous year, then without having paid
particulat attention to this, possibly as a result of the pipes being
covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.

IOW, it's in his own interests to check these things.


michael adams

...


Your taking too long term a view of the MOT test...

It certifies the vehicle as fit for purposes of test at time of test, not
a day , a week, a month or 12 months later.

Inspector failing items that are fit at time of test will soon get it in
the neck for not following DoT instructions.

DoT seems to think that 2 year test interval would be a good idea....


do they

why didn't they change it them

who was it who "voted" against that idea when it *was* up for discussion?

tim



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On Wed, 18 May 2016 14:29:10 +0100, michael adams wrote:

The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories from
last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a fail.


Nope.

The tester doesn't even see last year's advisories.


Its very simple really. If the tester passes the OP's car, the OP
suffers brake failure in the near future and it transpires that there
was an advisory for slightly corroded brake pipes for the previous year,
then without having paid particulat attention to this, possibly as a
result of the pipes being covered in gunk,he stands to get in the neck.


It really doesn't make any difference whether there's an advisory from
the previous year or not. He should be checking the brake pipes...

And, as I said, he doesn't KNOW if there was an advisory or not the
previous year.
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Adrian wrote:

It really doesn't make any difference whether there's an advisory from
the previous year or not. He should be checking the brake pipes...

And, as I said, he doesn't KNOW if there was an advisory or not the
previous year.


Previous advisories now come up on the computer, don't they?

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On 18/05/2016 13:43, michael adams wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb



Do nothing. An MOT advisory is just that, its not a requirement to
rectify something. Any attempt to cover up the fault will only annoy the
tester. If anything just clean the area.

Mike



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In message ,
Muddymike writes
On 18/05/2016 13:43, michael adams wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the
year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb



Do nothing. An MOT advisory is just that, its not a requirement to
rectify something. Any attempt to cover up the fault will only annoy
the tester. If anything just clean the area.


OK. I can manage that.

--
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On 2016-05-18, Muddymike wrote:
On 18/05/2016 13:43, michael adams wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?


Do nothing. An MOT advisory is just that, its not a requirement to
rectify something. Any attempt to cover up the fault will only annoy the
tester. If anything just clean the area.


Trying to slow down the deterioration, so that next year it's still only
slightly corroded, is reasonable though. It would have been better to do
that immediately after the advisory, rather than wait till just before the
test, but if this years advisory says the same....

(But if this year's says "badly, but not quite a fail yet", probably better
to just replace them now.)
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Alan Braggins a écrit :
It would have been better to do
that immediately after the advisory, rather than wait till just before the
test, but if this years advisory says the same....

(But if this year's says "badly, but not quite a fail yet", probably better
to just replace them now.)


I never wait until advisories appear, my repairs are done before I take
it for an MOT. I do a pre-MOT and MAKE SURE things are right. This
year, last week in fact, I spent two days crawling all over it. It just
needed some slight fettling, none of which was MOT related.
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michael adams wrote:

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb


The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories
from last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a
fail.


Not all advisories necessarily indicate work that will need doing
before the next year's MOT. For example my bike MOT sometimes gets:-
"Steering headbearing has slight free play (2.2.2)". As the tester
always says that's really down to how tight one prefers to have it.

--
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wrote in message ...
michael adams wrote:

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb


The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories
from last year either on paper of if necessary online,
and check whether the necessary work has actually been carried out,
rather than simply covered up; which would probably guarantee a
fail.


Not all advisories necessarily indicate work that will need doing
before the next year's MOT. For example my bike MOT sometimes gets:-
"Steering headbearing has slight free play (2.2.2)". As the tester
always says that's really down to how tight one prefers to have it.


Indeed. But of those which do indicate work needs to be done,
in this case pointing out slight corrosion which might benefit from
treatment at the very least, it makes sense for a tester to make
note of those areas, before working his way through the test.

In cases like yours, it's probably simply a case of bringing
the free play to the riders attention. Some riders as the tester
said may well already know about it and deliberately
set their bikes up that way. Others however might not have
a clue about such things, and so will get the bearing tightened
up so as to set their minds at rest.


michael adams

....





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In article ,
wrote:
Not all advisories necessarily indicate work that will need doing
before the next year's MOT. For example my bike MOT sometimes gets:-
"Steering headbearing has slight free play (2.2.2)". As the tester
always says that's really down to how tight one prefers to have it.


I get an advisory most years about slight play in the front wheel bearings
on my SD1. Of course there is slight play. They are adjustable, and that's
how they are set. If you set them with no play, they overheat and spew out
the grease...

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On Wed, 18 May 2016 16:29:00 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:
Not all advisories necessarily indicate work that will need doing
before the next year's MOT. For example my bike MOT sometimes gets:-
"Steering headbearing has slight free play (2.2.2)". As the tester
always says that's really down to how tight one prefers to have it.


I get an advisory most years about slight play in the front wheel bearings
on my SD1. Of course there is slight play. They are adjustable, and that's
how they are set. If you set them with no play, they overheat and spew out
the grease...


Or the advisory that the front brake pads are quite worn ... when the
car may only do 100 miles between MOT's. But I'm guessing they can't
know or should assume that so they would mention it because they
looked lower than most brake pads should get for a driver doing
'typical' miles / year.

And all the advisories that mysteriously vanish between tests without
anything being done about them. ;-)

Or the pass that's issued for something to fail on the way back from
the MOT station (I had a brake pipe fail on my Morris Minor because it
sat inside the chassis and couldn't be inspected).

Cheers, T i m
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On 18/05/2016 13:43, michael adams wrote:
"Tim wrote in message
...
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded near flex hose
joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust and coat
with..?
--
Tim Lamb


The first thing any Test Centre will do is check any advisories
from last year either on paper of if necessary online,




Not so. My wife's 2000MY Puma only does about 2k miles per annum. The
MOT (always done by the same garage) throws up a variety of advisories
such as slightly corroded brake pipes or slightly worn suspension
bushes. We do nothing about it between times and, as often a not, an
advisory which appears one year isn't repeated the next despite no
remedial work having been done. Seems to depend more on the whim of the
tester than anything else.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Just cut out the corroded pieces and replace with new, your local car
accessories place will put the ends on that you require and also supply the
olives for the existing pipe, it's just like normal copper plumbing but on a
smaller scale. They'll also have the tool for splaying the open end of the
existing pipe.

I replaced all my rear brake pipes on a 52 Vectra a few years ago, total
cost about £30 and half a day


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On 18/05/16 14:03, Phil L wrote:
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Just cut out the corroded pieces and replace with new, your local car
accessories place will put the ends on that you require and also supply the
olives for the existing pipe, it's just like normal copper plumbing but on a
smaller scale. They'll also have the tool for splaying the open end of the
existing pipe.

I replaced all my rear brake pipes on a 52 Vectra a few years ago, total
cost about £30 and half a day


Yup. Only irritating bit is needing a mate to push the brake pedal when
you bleed.

And or snapping off the nipples on ten year old cylinders and calipers
when you try..


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In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I replaced all my rear brake pipes on a 52 Vectra a few years ago, total
cost about £30 and half a day


Yup. Only irritating bit is needing a mate to push the brake pedal when
you bleed.


Eazibleed.

And or snapping off the nipples on ten year old cylinders and calipers
when you try..


Sensible people will change the fluid every 3 years or so. Helping prevent
nipples seizing.

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In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on rear
tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe rust
and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the time it
starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like? They're not
expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You can get them
made from material which doesn't rust.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


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In article ,
Phil L wrote:
Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why
they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is
outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


Copper is often extremely expensive, and can work harden. Cupra-nickel is
the more usual material for 'posh' ones. But decent steel can outlast the
vehicle anyway.

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On 18/05/2016 15:59, Phil L wrote:

For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


Kunifer surely?

Anyway you clearly have no idea how much costs are pared on new cars :-)



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On 18/05/16 15:59, Phil L wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


No, it isn't.

And if you had worked trying to get a seal on 10mm copper oil pipe on a
central heating boiler, you would know why.


--
The biggest threat to humanity comes from socialism, which has utterly
diverted our attention away from what really matters to our existential
survival, to indulging in navel gazing and faux moral investigations
into what the world ought to be, whilst we fail utterly to deal with
what it actually is.

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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 18/05/16 15:59, Phil L wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the
year, barn stored.

Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly
corroded near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly
deteriorated on rear tyres.

Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?

Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming.
You can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see
why they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel
is outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


No, it isn't.


Ebay results:

'Brake pipe copper' = 4,819

'Brake pipe Kunifer' = 621

So there's about 8 times as many copper pipes as kunifer.


And if you had worked trying to get a seal on 10mm copper oil pipe on
a central heating boiler, you would know why.


I've never needed to, but I've replaced lots of brake pipes on cars, all of
them copper and none of them were any trouble at all.


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On Wed, 18 May 2016 17:38:34 +0100, Phil L wrote:

For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why
they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is
outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


No, it isn't.


Ebay results:

'Brake pipe copper' = 4,819

'Brake pipe Kunifer' = 621

So there's about 8 times as many copper pipes as kunifer.


Or a lot of people are incorrectly referring to cupro-nickel as "copper".

At least, I _hope_ that's what it is...
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On 18/05/16 15:59, Phil L wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why they
can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is outdated.
Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.



Except it is prone to work hardening due to vibration and fracturing -
as I found out from personal experience.
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"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Lamb wrote:
OK so it is overdue for an MOT. Probably done 1000 miles in the year,
barn stored.


Couple of advisories on last years.... brake pipes slightly corroded
near flex hose joint and inner side walls slightly deteriorated on
rear tyres.


Not much I can do about the tyres but wire brush off any brake pipe
rust and coat with..?


Brake pipes which rust are made from heavily plated steel. By the
time it starts on the outside, who knows what the inside is like?
They're not expensive to replace - just sometimes time consuming. You
can get them made from material which doesn't rust.


For the sake of an extra £10 on the cost of a new car, I can't see why
they can't make them from copper in the first place, using steel is
outdated. Copper is the norm for replacement brake pipes.


for the sake of an extra 10 pounds why don't they do this?

and for another 10 pounds why don't they do this?

and soon you are up to 500 pounds extra

tim





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