I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

--
F

On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote:
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.


Do you have a shed?

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Dec 7, 8:09 pm, The Medway Handyman
wrote:
On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote:

I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Do you have a shed?

is it still there?
sleep in it?
guard it?

Jim K

On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote:
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Say 'I know how to stop that happening again' then use a router to cut a
few parallel, equally spaced, 5mm wide, 200mm long round bottomed
grooves, one of which removes the bubble, and set some 5mm diameter x
200mm stainless steel bars into the surface. One invisible repair, one
hot pan stand and it all looks as though it was planned.

Colin Bignell

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 19:49:11 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.


--

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

--
F

On 07/12/2011 20:09 The Medway Handyman wrote:

Do you have a shed?

No, but there's some decking I could sheet over and then crawl underneath.

--
F

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Even if there had been, how do you remove the Formica from it without
damage?

--
Frank Erskine

I'm sorry, but you are in for a big job. Unless there is some miracle
material for repairing laminate arrived in the last five years, the whole
top is the only solution.
Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and
now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a
couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop
is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

--
F

Have you ever tried to do that sort of thing without chipping formica?. The
other problem is that if its actually laminate on some board or other, you
get to find exactly where the glue did not work very well.....

Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________


"Nightjar" wrote in message
...
On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote:
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Say 'I know how to stop that happening again' then use a router to cut a
few parallel, equally spaced, 5mm wide, 200mm long round bottomed grooves,
one of which removes the bubble, and set some 5mm diameter x 200mm
stainless steel bars into the surface. One invisible repair, one hot pan
stand and it all looks as though it was planned.

Colin Bignell

On 07/12/2011 23:22, Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, Fnews@nowhere wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Even if there had been, how do you remove the Formica from it without
damage?

I used a piece of spare edging strip kept for such eventualities.

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and
now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a
couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop
is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Simple. Pick up telephone, call insurance company. That's assuming you have
accidental damage cover.

Mike

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:22:45 +0000, Frank Erskine
wrote:

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Even if there had been, how do you remove the Formica from it without
damage?

Rout it from the back to remove the core, rout it from the front to
remove the formica.

Or use an angle grinder.


--

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Not even in the offcuts bargain bin at a DIY shed?


Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

--

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 09:31:59 +0000, The Other Mike
wrote:

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:22:45 +0000, Frank Erskine
wrote:

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Even if there had been, how do you remove the Formica from it without
damage?

snip

Or use an angle grinder.

The correct answer.

:-)

--
Frank Erskine

On 08/12/2011 09:34 The Other Mike wrote:

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

Sounds like the way to go.

--
F

On 08/12/2011 09:03 MuddyMike wrote:

Simple. Pick up telephone, call insurance company. That's assuming you have
accidental damage cover.

We are covered, and I could do that. The only problem is that come
renewal time they'll most likely up the premium to a level where they
recoup their outlay and more on top.

For that kind of reason I treat household insurance as 'disaster'
insurance rather than 'put cock-ups right' insurance.

--
F

"Brian Gaff" wrote in message
...
Have you ever tried to do that sort of thing without chipping formica?.
The other problem is that if its actually laminate on some board or other,
you get to find exactly where the glue did not work very well.....

I think it should be fine with a down cutting spiral cutter.

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Even if there had been, how do you remove the Formica from it without
damage?

Route it from the back?

On 08/12/2011 09:39 Frank Erskine wrote:

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 09:31:59 +0000, The Other Mike
wrote:

Or use an angle grinder.

The correct answer.

As per my original post: I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have
WD40. Reckon it might slide it off if I use enough?

Oh, but I don't have an off-cut either...

--
F

In message , The Other Mike
writes
On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Not even in the offcuts bargain bin at a DIY shed?


Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

Just what we did:-)

Going back to the original problem.... is work top finishing actually
Formica these days? 1970 maybe!

Couldn't the *bump* be re-softened with judicious application of heat, a
spot of glue injected and then cramped or weighted back to being flat?
The small crack isn't likely to be any worse than the joint around a
repair.

regards




--
Tim Lamb

On 08/12/2011 09:54 Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , The Other Mike
writes
Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

Just what we did:-)

That's encouraging! Thanks.

Going back to the original problem.... is work top finishing actually
Formica these days? 1970 maybe!

The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate:
http://www.axiomworktops.com/swatch_...salt_slate.htm

Couldn't the *bump* be re-softened with judicious application of heat, a
spot of glue injected and then cramped or weighted back to being flat?
The small crack isn't likely to be any worse than the joint around a
repair.

The bump looks to be very brittle but your suggestion is worth trying
with the insert idea as an alternative if/when I find it won't shrink
back down.

--
F

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
On 08/12/2011 09:03 MuddyMike wrote:

Simple. Pick up telephone, call insurance company. That's assuming you
have
accidental damage cover.

We are covered, and I could do that. The only problem is that come renewal
time they'll most likely up the premium to a level where they recoup their
outlay and more on top.

For that kind of reason I treat household insurance as 'disaster'
insurance rather than 'put cock-ups right' insurance.

--
F



I would go with the tile

The stainless bars are fine in solid wood work tops but the groove for them
in formica will expose the core to damp. Stainless plate without insulation
under will I suspect cook the core to some extent

If you can get a decent bevel edge tile or marble pastry board you can set
it proud of the worktop by a couple of mm

This allows for a bit of sealer around the edge and also means that if a hot
pan is put not quite in the right spot it does not touch the surrounding
formica

Regards

On Dec 7, 9:27*pm, Nightjar wrote:
On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Say 'I know how to stop that happening again' then use a router to cut a
few parallel, equally spaced, 5mm wide, 200mm long round bottomed
grooves, one of which removes the bubble, and set some 5mm diameter x
200mm stainless steel bars into the surface. One invisible repair, one
hot pan stand and it all looks as though it was planned.

Colin Bignell

Might be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks
will prove a bad idea.


NT

On Dec 7, 11:07 pm, F news@nowhere wrote:
On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...


a friend has self -dhesive bars a la :-

http://www.selffit-worktops.co.uk/pr...an-Stands.html

(first one I googled)

Jim K

F wrote:

The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate:
http://www.axiomworktops.com/swatch_...salt_slate.htm

There's a link on that page that says "order a sample", sounds like the
answer to your "what offcut" question ...

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
On 08/12/2011 09:34 The Other Mike wrote:

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

Sounds like the way to go.

Seal the slot with good varnish before you even think about putting anything
in.

In message , F
writes
On 08/12/2011 09:54 Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , The Other Mike
writes
Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

Just what we did:-)

That's encouraging! Thanks.

Going back to the original problem.... is work top finishing actually
Formica these days? 1970 maybe!

The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate: http://www.axio
mworktops.com/swatch_images/pp3690ahd_basalt_slate.htm

Couldn't the *bump* be re-softened with judicious application of heat, a
spot of glue injected and then cramped or weighted back to being flat?
The small crack isn't likely to be any worse than the joint around a
repair.

The bump looks to be very brittle but your suggestion is worth trying
with the insert idea as an alternative if/when I find it won't shrink
back down.

Umm...

Wikipedia has Formica as paper melamine laminate. I don't know how that
would respond to further heating.

Someone else may know.

*Post formed* worktops were popular when we married so you must be able
to bend the stuff. The question is, how?

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On Dec 8, 11:48 am, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , F
writes



On 08/12/2011 09:54 Tim Lamb wrote:

In message , The Other Mike
writes
Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

Just what we did:-)

That's encouraging! Thanks.

Going back to the original problem.... is work top finishing actually
Formica these days? 1970 maybe!

The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate:http://www.axio
mworktops.com/swatch_images/pp3690ahd_basalt_slate.htm

Couldn't the *bump* be re-softened with judicious application of heat, a
spot of glue injected and then cramped or weighted back to being flat?
The small crack isn't likely to be any worse than the joint around a
repair.

The bump looks to be very brittle but your suggestion is worth trying
with the insert idea as an alternative if/when I find it won't shrink
back down.

Umm...

Wikipedia has Formica as paper melamine laminate. I don't know how that
would respond to further heating.

Someone else may know.

*Post formed* worktops were popular when we married so you must be able
to bend the stuff. The question is, how?

erm... aren't all the readily available worktops post formed at least
on one edge (front)??

loads more notes he-
http://www.formica.co.uk/publish/sit...tmp/tec042.pdf

Jim K

On 12/8/2011 10:30 AM, Terry Fields wrote:

F wrote:

I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Not a repair, but we use 'heatproof' glass worktop protectors; got
them from Tesco. Convince SWMBO that these are just what are needed,
then cover up the damage with one.


Or a nice big granite tile.

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
On 08/12/2011 09:34 The Other Mike wrote:

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

Sounds like the way to go.

--
F

You are doomed.
Is there a Travelodge in your area?

On 08/12/2011 10:12, NT wrote:
On Dec 7, 9:27 pm, wrote:
On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Say 'I know how to stop that happening again' then use a router to cut a
few parallel, equally spaced, 5mm wide, 200mm long round bottomed
grooves, one of which removes the bubble, and set some 5mm diameter x
200mm stainless steel bars into the surface. One invisible repair, one
hot pan stand and it all looks as though it was planned.

Colin Bignell

Might be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks
will prove a bad idea.

Not if you do the job properly and don't leave any unsealed cracks.

Colin Bignell

On 08/12/2011 08:46, Brian Gaff wrote:
Have you ever tried to do that sort of thing without chipping formica?.

Yes, although the tool was brand new and very sharp.

The
other problem is that if its actually laminate on some board or other, you
get to find exactly where the glue did not work very well.....

grin

Colin Bignell

"F" wrote in message
o.uk...

I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

--
F

-------------------------------------------------------------

Not exactly DIY but there are a lot of companies who repair this kind of
damage at a price - such as
http://www.plastic-surgeon.co.uk/Ser...topRepair.aspx

John M

On 07/12/2011 23:07, F wrote:
On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The pan only makes contact with each rod along a fairly small line, at
most, (and that is assuming you get them all level and at an equal
depth) so the rate of heat transfer is going to be fairly small. You
could, of course, use larger rods that will take longer to heat.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

No more of a problem than any other hole, such as a sink, or the joint
between worktop and wall. Silicone mastic should work perfectly well.

Colin Bignell

On Dec 9, 8:57*am, Nightjar wrote:
On 07/12/2011 23:07, F wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The pan only makes contact with each rod along a fairly small line, at
most, (and that is assuming you get them all level and at an equal
depth) so the rate of heat transfer is going to be fairly small. You
could, of course, use larger rods that will take longer to heat.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

No more of a problem than any other hole, such as a sink, or the joint
between worktop and wall. Silicone mastic should work perfectly well.

Colin Bignell

At one time some of the sheds sold a product called "Hot Rods". These
were intended to be epoxied onto the laminate surface. Would it not be
possible to carefully grind the blister off (with an angle grinder, if
you must, or better still a Dremel type machine) and epoxy them on in
the regular fashion? I think they are also available as a self
adhesive version.

On 09/12/2011 09:35 82045 wrote:

At one time some of the sheds sold a product called "Hot Rods". These
were intended to be epoxied onto the laminate surface. Would it not be
possible to carefully grind the blister off (with an angle grinder, if
you must, or better still a Dremel type machine) and epoxy them on in
the regular fashion? I think they are also available as a self
adhesive version.

I'll have a look for some. Hopefully, their diameter is greater than
that of the bubble.

I like the idea of a marble or granite insert, but if I can get a fix
without making any more holes in the surface then that would be preferable.

--
F

In article ,
F news@nowhere wrote:
On 09/12/2011 09:35 82045 wrote:

At one time some of the sheds sold a product called "Hot Rods". These
were intended to be epoxied onto the laminate surface. Would it not be
possible to carefully grind the blister off (with an angle grinder, if
you must, or better still a Dremel type machine) and epoxy them on in
the regular fashion? I think they are also available as a self
adhesive version.

I'll have a look for some. Hopefully, their diameter is greater than
that of the bubble.

I like the idea of a marble or granite insert, but if I can get a fix
without making any more holes in the surface then that would be
preferable.

to protect our Village Hall kitchen worktop from further damage - after a
very hot kettle had be put on it, I found a stainless steel plate (rolled
at the front edge) which I placed over the damaged area. It's a few years
ago, but I think I used Evostik to hold it in place.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.16

On Dec 8, 10:44*pm, Nightjar
wrote:
On 08/12/2011 10:12, NT wrote:



On Dec 7, 9:27 pm, *wrote:
On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote: *I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

Say 'I know how to stop that happening again' then use a router to cut a
few parallel, equally spaced, 5mm wide, 200mm long round bottomed
grooves, one of which removes the bubble, and set some 5mm diameter x
200mm stainless steel bars into the surface. One invisible repair, one
hot pan stand and it all looks as though it was planned.

Colin Bignell

Might be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks
will prove a bad idea.

Not if you do the job properly and don't leave any unsealed cracks.

IOW:
Will be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks
will prove a bad idea.

On 09/12/2011 12:22, Weatherlawyer wrote:
....
IOW:
Will be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks
will prove a bad idea.

Then don't do it on the Isle of Wight, or is IOW supposed to mean
something else?

Colin Bignell