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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#41
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On Fri, 09 Dec 2011 14:21:20 +0000, Nightjar wrote:
On 09/12/2011 12:22, Weatherlawyer wrote: ... IOW: Will be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks will prove a bad idea. Then don't do it on the Isle of Wight, or is IOW supposed to mean something else? Colin Bignell presumably 'in other words' -- (º€¢.¸(¨*€¢.¸ ¸.€¢*¨)¸.€¢Âº) .€¢Â°€¢. Nik .€¢Â°€¢. (¸.€¢Âº(¸.€¢Â¨* *¨€¢.¸)º€¢.¸) |
#42
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On Dec 7, 7:49*pm, F news@nowhere wrote:
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. i did exactly this once but burned a much bigger area. We 'fixed' it by getting a nice rectangle of fancy stainess steel and gluing it over the damage. This then looked like a special place designed to put hot pans. Robert |
#43
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 09/12/2011 15:58, RobertL wrote:
On Dec 7, 7:49 pm, Fnews@nowhere wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. i did exactly this once but burned a much bigger area. We 'fixed' it by getting a nice rectangle of fancy stainess steel and gluing it over the damage. This then looked like a special place designed to put hot pans. Robert "If you can't hide it, paint it red" Nice one! -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#44
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 09/12/2011 18:25 The Medway Handyman wrote:
"If you can't hide it, paint it red" Or turn it into an 'architectural feature'. -- F |
#45
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 09/12/2011 15:58 RobertL wrote:
i did exactly this once but burned a much bigger area. We 'fixed' it by getting a nice rectangle of fancy stainess steel and gluing it over the damage. This then looked like a special place designed to put hot pans. That was my first reaction, but I'm concerned that it would conduct heat straight through to the worktop and raise more bubbles if I/we repeat the hot griddle pan trick... -- F |
#46
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 07/12/2011 19:49 F wrote:
I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40... Management has stayed calm. So far. Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement. In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be. Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to go for? I've no relevant experience... -- F |
#47
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Damaged worktop: what to do
F wrote:
On 07/12/2011 19:49 F wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40... Management has stayed calm. So far. Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement. In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be. Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to go for? I've no relevant experience... you pay through the nose for granite - probably about 5 times what laminated chip costs, but the result is worth it. Its been through a volcano already. hot pans wont touch it.Frankly that or stainless steel are the two best alternatives. Make up a paper template and go to a monumental mason (grave stones) and get it cut to size. |
#48
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 31/12/2011 12:47 The Natural Philosopher wrote:
F wrote: On 07/12/2011 19:49 F wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40... Management has stayed calm. So far. Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement. In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be. Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to go for? I've no relevant experience... you pay through the nose for granite - probably about 5 times what laminated chip costs, but the result is worth it. Its been through a volcano already. hot pans wont touch it.Frankly that or stainless steel are the two best alternatives. Make up a paper template and go to a monumental mason (grave stones) and get it cut to size. Hadn't thought of the stone mason option: thanks! There's three pieces: a short 1M breakfast bar, another 0.6M rectangle and, the largest, an L-shape, around 3M x 2.5M on the outside of the L with cut-outs for the sink and gas hob in the longer leg. Presumably, the latter comes in two sections with a diagonal join across the corner of the L? Or a bishops mitre? How do I seal the joint between them and make sure they don't move apart? -- F |
#49
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Damaged worktop: what to do
F wrote:
On 31/12/2011 12:47 The Natural Philosopher wrote: F wrote: On 07/12/2011 19:49 F wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40... Management has stayed calm. So far. Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement. In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be. Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to go for? I've no relevant experience... you pay through the nose for granite - probably about 5 times what laminated chip costs, but the result is worth it. Its been through a volcano already. hot pans wont touch it.Frankly that or stainless steel are the two best alternatives. Make up a paper template and go to a monumental mason (grave stones) and get it cut to size. Hadn't thought of the stone mason option: thanks! There's three pieces: a short 1M breakfast bar, another 0.6M rectangle and, the largest, an L-shape, around 3M x 2.5M on the outside of the L with cut-outs for the sink and gas hob in the longer leg. Presumably, the latter comes in two sections with a diagonal join across the corner of the L? Or a bishops mitre? How do I seal the joint between them and make sure they don't move apart? well granite doesn't MOVE as such.. I suppose a black epoxy is about where its at for the gap. |
#50
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 31/12/2011 21:04 The Natural Philosopher wrote:
F wrote: How do I seal the joint between them and make sure they don't move apart? well granite doesn't MOVE as such.. I suppose a black epoxy is about where its at for the gap. I assumed the weight would hold it in place but wondered if it might creep over time. -- F |
#51
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Damaged worktop: what to do
F wrote:
On 31/12/2011 21:04 The Natural Philosopher wrote: F wrote: How do I seal the joint between them and make sure they don't move apart? well granite doesn't MOVE as such.. I suppose a black epoxy is about where its at for the gap. I assumed the weight would hold it in place but wondered if it might creep over time. car body filler will nail it down - or silicone or anything. Gap filling is less easy. |
#52
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 31/12/2011 11:56, F wrote:
On 07/12/2011 19:49 F wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40... Management has stayed calm. So far. Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement. In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be. Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to go for? I've no relevant experience... I did notice that ALDI had black granite pan rests on sale yesterday. As an interim quick fix you might want to get one. Regards, Martin Brown |
#53
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 01/01/2012 10:31, Martin Brown wrote:
On 31/12/2011 11:56, F wrote: On 07/12/2011 19:49 F wrote: I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey. Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40... Management has stayed calm. So far. Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement. In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be. Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to go for? I've no relevant experience... I did notice that ALDI had black granite pan rests on sale yesterday. As an interim quick fix you might want to get one. Regards, Martin Brown When we got a new kitchen fitted a few years back after just a couple of weeks son put a hot pan on it and blistered a small patch no bigger than say square inch. Once my temper calmed I took time to smooth with wet & dry and then used a black marker pen, maybe had to redo a couple of times a year (pen) lasted 10 years until we sold the house. You may need to use a couple of different coloured markers say black and gray to give a better effect. The problem with damage like this is you can camouflage quite well and hide it from the casual onlooker but you still know its there. Not once did anyone notice it on my worktop in 10 years but every morning I made a coffee my eye was drawn to it. F...ing son :-) |
#54
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On 01/01/2012 15:58 ss wrote:
When we got a new kitchen fitted a few years back after just a couple of weeks son put a hot pan on it and blistered a small patch no bigger than say square inch. Once my temper calmed I took time to smooth with wet & dry... How did you deal with the hole that was left when you removed the blistered surface? -- F |
#55
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Damaged worktop: what to do
I had the same problem with burn on black worktop. I peeked off the brittle part an painted a few coats of black nail varnish and used a small but of white nail varnush to give it a mottled look like the worktop. Hardly visible.
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#56
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Damaged worktop: what to do
On Wednesday, 23 January 2019 11:22:22 UTC, wrote:
I had the same problem with burn on black worktop. I peeked off the brittle part an painted a few coats of black nail varnish and used a small but of white nail varnush to give it a mottled look like the worktop. Hardly visible. Doubt if hes still interested after 7 years |
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