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Default Damaged worktop: what to do

On Dec 9, 8:57*am, Nightjar wrote:
On 07/12/2011 23:07, F wrote:

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:


Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.


Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.


Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.


Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.


That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.


The pan only makes contact with each rod along a fairly small line, at
most, (and that is assuming you get them all level and at an equal
depth) so the rate of heat transfer is going to be fairly small. You
could, of course, use larger rods that will take longer to heat.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...


No more of a problem than any other hole, such as a sink, or the joint
between worktop and wall. Silicone mastic should work perfectly well.

Colin Bignell


At one time some of the sheds sold a product called "Hot Rods". These
were intended to be epoxied onto the laminate surface. Would it not be
possible to carefully grind the blister off (with an angle grinder, if
you must, or better still a Dremel type machine) and epoxy them on in
the regular fashion? I think they are also available as a self
adhesive version.