I am having my chimney rebuilt in a few weeks time, and to do that, the
gable-end wall needs scaffolding. Taking advantage of that, I would like to
paint the wall, since I cannot get to it without the scaffolding.

It is a big North East-facing wall, very close to the sea, and so gets a lot of
wind and driving rain. The wall also already has two layers of rendering - an
underlying layer that has probably been there thirty years, and a new layer that
is more like twenty years old. The outer layer is a very tough layer of some
kind of concrete, and is very hard almost to the point of feeling brittle.

We don't have any damp problems on that wall, at present.

Now the question is, what should I paint it with? I am looking for something
that will last a long time (10+ years), and will not cause any dampness. I have
no idea if some paints will seal in water and cause damp, or cause the rendering
to detach. Not knowing what the rendering is treated with (something that makes
it waterproof, no doubt) I also have to worry about what will "take" and not
peal off.

Any advice on what I should be looking for, while the clock is ticking (doing
this in three weeks from today!)

Here is the end wall, courtesy Google Street View:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

The green is mostly gone now, and the chimney is leaving rather a lot more than
this!

Thanks,

-- Jason

On 10/05/2011 20:55, Jason wrote:
....

Here is the end wall, courtesy Google Street View:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

The green is mostly gone now, and the chimney is leaving rather a lot more than
this!

Thanks,

-- Jason

I was being lazy. Here's a proper photo I just took:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

Two pictures of the rendering up close:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

No idea what it is though, but does feel kind of brittle, but is *very* hard and
is about half an inch think.

Ideally this wall will be insulated, but I'll be saving up for that (or keeping
my eye open for a grant to help).

-- Jason

On May 10, 8:55*pm, Jason wrote:
I am having my chimney rebuilt in a few weeks time, and to do that, the
gable-end wall needs scaffolding. Taking advantage of that, I would like to
paint the wall, since I cannot get to it without the scaffolding.

It is a big North East-facing wall, very close to the sea, and so gets a lot of
wind and driving rain. The wall also already has two layers of rendering - an
underlying layer that has probably been there thirty years, and a new layer that
is more like twenty years old. The outer layer is a very tough layer of some
kind of concrete, and is very hard almost to the point of feeling brittle..

We don't have any damp problems on that wall, at present.

Now the question is, what should I paint it with? I am looking for something
that will last a long time (10+ years), and will not cause any dampness. I have
no idea if some paints will seal in water and cause damp, or cause the rendering
to detach. Not knowing what the rendering is treated with (something that makes
it waterproof, no doubt) I also have to worry about what will "take" and not
peal off.

Any advice on what I should be looking for, while the clock is ticking (doing
this in three weeks from today!)

Here is the end wall, courtesy Google Street View:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...s/l/in/photost...

The green is mostly gone now, and the chimney is leaving rather a lot more than
this!

Thanks,

-- Jason


Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap. It lasts a good deal
longer than 10 years.


NT

On 10/05/2011 21:24, Tabby wrote:
...

Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap. It lasts a good deal
longer than 10 years.


NT

There is a 300 year old house down the road on the sea front, painted with lime,
so this may be the job, so long as it sticks:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=14+c....7 8,,1,-1.55

-- JJ

Jason wrote:
On 10/05/2011 20:55, Jason wrote:
...
Here is the end wall, courtesy Google Street View:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

The green is mostly gone now, and the chimney is leaving rather a lot more than
this!

Thanks,

-- Jason

I was being lazy. Here's a proper photo I just took:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

Two pictures of the rendering up close:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

No idea what it is though, but does feel kind of brittle, but is *very* hard and
is about half an inch think.

Ideally this wall will be insulated, but I'll be saving up for that (or keeping
my eye open for a grant to help).

It looks like a Tyrolean type finish, and if it's anything like what I
had chipped off my place a while ago, it can separate from the substrate
and lead to some very interesting patterns of damp, while showing
absolutely no cracks whatoever. Mine was over a sharp sand/cement
render, which took a *lot* of getting off, and was standing up almost
independently of the wall it was "attached" to. Whatever you paint it
with will probably need to be sprayed on.

I had the whole lot removed down to the brickwork and then the walls
were lime rendered. With any luck, the job'll last longer than I will.
Or you can use an insulating render, which pays for itself over time.

http://www.greenspec.co.uk/insulated-render.php

Sandtex used to be the norm for masonry paint.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

On 10/05/2011 21:48, John Williamson wrote:
Jason wrote:

It looks like a Tyrolean type finish, and if it's anything like what I had
chipped off my place a while ago, it can separate from the substrate and lead to
some very interesting patterns of damp, while showing absolutely no cracks
whatoever. Mine was over a sharp sand/cement render, which took a *lot* of
getting off, and was standing up almost independently of the wall it was
"attached" to. Whatever you paint it with will probably need to be sprayed on.

I had the whole lot removed down to the brickwork and then the walls were lime
rendered. With any luck, the job'll last longer than I will. Or you can use an
insulating render, which pays for itself over time.

http://www.greenspec.co.uk/insulated-render.php

Sandtex used to be the norm for masonry paint.


That sounds like the stuff. Before the side shed was built, there was an
enormous bubble in the render, with a 7-8 square metre area not even touching
the wall. But it held on firmly, did not move, and was like that for ten years
without shifting. And yes, no cracks, which is surprising considering how much
the house moves around from one year to the next.

-- JJ

Jason wrote:
I am having my chimney rebuilt in a few weeks time, and to do that,
the gable-end wall needs scaffolding. Taking advantage of that, I
would like to paint the wall, since I cannot get to it without the
scaffolding.

It is a big North East-facing wall, very close to the sea, and so
gets a lot of wind and driving rain. The wall also already has two
layers of rendering - an underlying layer that has probably been
there thirty years, and a new layer that is more like twenty years
old. The outer layer is a very tough layer of some kind of concrete,
and is very hard almost to the point of feeling brittle.

We don't have any damp problems on that wall, at present.

Now the question is, what should I paint it with? I am looking for
something that will last a long time (10+ years), and will not cause
any dampness. I have no idea if some paints will seal in water and
cause damp, or cause the rendering to detach. Not knowing what the
rendering is treated with (something that makes it waterproof, no
doubt) I also have to worry about what will "take" and not peal off.

Any advice on what I should be looking for, while the clock is
ticking (doing this in three weeks from today!)

Here is the end wall, courtesy Google Street View:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

The green is mostly gone now, and the chimney is leaving rather a lot
more than this!

Thanks,

-- Jason

I don't know if they do anything suitable for your situation but Liquid
Plastics is always worth a look. I've used their K501 on brickwork with
great success so you may find something he

http://www.liquidplastics.co.uk/Deco...ings-for-Walls

On 10/05/2011 22:14, John wrote:
Jason wrote:
I am having my chimney rebuilt in a few weeks time, and to do that,
the gable-end wall needs scaffolding. Taking advantage of that, I
would like to paint the wall, since I cannot get to it without the
scaffolding.

It is a big North East-facing wall, very close to the sea, and so
gets a lot of wind and driving rain. The wall also already has two
layers of rendering - an underlying layer that has probably been
there thirty years, and a new layer that is more like twenty years
old. The outer layer is a very tough layer of some kind of concrete,
and is very hard almost to the point of feeling brittle.

We don't have any damp problems on that wall, at present.

Now the question is, what should I paint it with? I am looking for
something that will last a long time (10+ years), and will not cause
any dampness. I have no idea if some paints will seal in water and
cause damp, or cause the rendering to detach. Not knowing what the
rendering is treated with (something that makes it waterproof, no
doubt) I also have to worry about what will "take" and not peal off.

Any advice on what I should be looking for, while the clock is
ticking (doing this in three weeks from today!)

Here is the end wall, courtesy Google Street View:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

The green is mostly gone now, and the chimney is leaving rather a lot
more than this!

Thanks,

-- Jason

I don't know if they do anything suitable for your situation but Liquid
Plastics is always worth a look. I've used their K501 on brickwork with
great success so you may find something he

http://www.liquidplastics.co.uk/Deco...ings-for-Walls

Ta - I'll have a good read (lots of data sheets and case studies there).

-- JJ

For masonry I usually use:

http://www.johnstonestrade.com/produ...Masonry_Finish



I'll second that. My gable end wall is very similar, but faces SW, the
worst aspect for paintwork IME. The pliolite paint shows no signs of
degrading after 10+ years, whereas ordinary masonry paint (including
Sandtex) applied before that hadn't lasted at all well.
Pricey, but well worth it, especially if you need scaffolding to get to it.

On May 10, 9:30*pm, Jason wrote:
On 10/05/2011 21:24, Tabby wrote:

...

Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap. It lasts a good deal
longer than 10 years.

NT

There is a 300 year old house down the road on the sea front, painted with lime,
so this may be the job, so long as it sticks:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=14+c...+whitley+bay&o....

-- JJ

I've heard people say it wont stick to concrete, but I've yet to
encounter any such problem. If there is a sticking issue, adding 1%
boiled linseed oil may solve it.


NT

On 11/05/2011 17:25, Tabby wrote:
On May 10, 9:30 pm, wrote:
On 10/05/2011 21:24, Tabby wrote:

...

Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap. It lasts a good deal
longer than 10 years.

NT

There is a 300 year old house down the road on the sea front, painted with lime,
so this may be the job, so long as it sticks:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=14+c...+whitley+bay&o...

-- JJ

I've heard people say it wont stick to concrete, but I've yet to
encounter any such problem. If there is a sticking issue, adding 1%
boiled linseed oil may solve it.


NT

And pray it doesn't rain....

On May 11, 6:14*pm, stuart noble wrote:
On 11/05/2011 17:25, Tabby wrote:



On May 10, 9:30 pm, *wrote:
On 10/05/2011 21:24, Tabby wrote:

...

Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap. It lasts a good deal
longer than 10 years.

NT

There is a 300 year old house down the road on the sea front, painted with lime,
so this may be the job, so long as it sticks:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=14+c...+whitley+bay&o....

-- JJ

I've heard people say it wont stick to concrete, but I've yet to
encounter any such problem. If there is a sticking issue, adding 1%
boiled linseed oil may solve it.

NT

And pray it doesn't rain....

just check the weather forecast. Lime paint takes a day or so to
become rainproof.


NT

On May 10, 9:24*pm, Tabby wrote:
Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap.

Very much agree.

It lasts a good deal longer than 10 years.
That is not my experience. When I applied it myself (made up from
lime putty + water+milk) it lasted about three years. Getting a
professional in to apply it, and buying it ready made, it lasted about
five.

Silicate paints are getting good writeups. They are more expensive
than limewash, but it may be worth it for the OP given the longer
life. I haven't ever used them. For example:
http://www.earthbornpaints.co.uk/sil...onry-paint.php

On 12/05/2011 13:34, Martin Bonner wrote:
On May 10, 9:24 pm, wrote:
Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap.

Very much agree.

It lasts a good deal longer than 10 years.
That is not my experience. When I applied it myself (made up from
lime putty + water+milk) it lasted about three years. Getting a
professional in to apply it, and buying it ready made, it lasted about
five.

Silicate paints are getting good writeups. They are more expensive
than limewash, but it may be worth it for the OP given the longer
life. I haven't ever used them. For example:
http://www.earthbornpaints.co.uk/sil...onry-paint.php


What the hell does "low acrylic content" mean? Not surprisingly, acrylic
is not listed in the ingredients. Perhaps they should rename it
Greenwash paint

"Jason" wrote in message
...
I am having my chimney rebuilt in a few weeks time, and to do that, the
gable-end wall needs scaffolding. Taking advantage of that, I would like
to
paint the wall, since I cannot get to it without the scaffolding.

Why do you want to paint it? Whatever you use it will need doing again, and
again, and again. I vowed never to have another house that needs painting
after owning a painted, rendered house for 23 years. The longest lasting
paint I used was Micatex by Permoglaze ( I think they call it Permotex now)
that weathered far better than Sandtex, but if you must paint that wall use
the smooth version it goes much further.

Mike

On 12 May, 14:56, Tabby wrote:
On May 12, 1:34*pm, Martin Bonner wrote:









On May 10, 9:24*pm, Tabby wrote:

Fwiw lime is durable, doesnt cause damp leading to damage, and handles
salts in a way that does not damage the wall underneath. Its also
exceptionally easy to apply and extremely cheap.

Very much agree.

It lasts a good deal longer than 10 years.

That is not my experience. *When I applied it myself (made up from
lime putty + water+milk) it lasted about three years. *Getting a
professional in to apply it, and buying it ready made, it lasted about
five.

Silicate paints are getting good writeups. *They are more expensive
than limewash, but it may be worth it for the OP given the longer
life. *I haven't ever used them. For example:http://www.earthbornpaints.co.uk/sil...onry-paint.php

The lime paint I put on concrete nearly 10 years ago is still as new.
I didnt add milk.

Interesting. Maybe lime sticks better to concrete than to clay lump.
(Which wouldn't be totally amazing.)

On May 12, 9:13*pm, "MuddyMike" wrote:
"Jason" wrote in message

...

I am having my chimney rebuilt in a few weeks time, and to do that, the
gable-endwall needs scaffolding. Taking advantage of that, I would like
to
paint the wall, since I cannot get to it without the scaffolding.

Why do you want to paint it? Whatever you use it will need doing again, and
again, and again. I vowed never to have another house that needs painting
after owning a painted, rendered house for 23 years. The longest lasting
paint I used was Micatex *by Permoglaze ( I think they call it Permotex now)
that weathered far better than Sandtex, but if you must paint that wall use
the smooth version it goes much further.

Mike

Why? Strict instructions, for which I have been arguing against for
years.

This particular wall faces onto a primary school playground next door,
where my better half works. It is got grey and patchy over the years,
and just looks untidy. I guess in the end it is the thing to do for
the neighbourhood.

-- JJ

On 12/05/2011 00:14, Tabby wrote:
....

I've heard people say it wont stick to concrete, but I've yet to
encounter any such problem. If there is a sticking issue, adding 1%
boiled linseed oil may solve it.

NT

And pray it doesn't rain....

just check the weather forecast. Lime paint takes a day or so to
become rainproof.

Hehe - the weather forecast. If it were April, I would to avoid painting due to
the showers. May should be okay though.

In reality, a new water-butt I put up at the start of April, remained empty
until a week ago, and then filled up in one hour flat.

On 10/05/2011 20:55, Jason wrote:
I am having my chimney rebuilt in a few weeks time, and to do that, the
gable-end wall needs scaffolding. Taking advantage of that, I would like to
paint the wall, since I cannot get to it without the scaffolding.

It is a big North East-facing wall, very close to the sea, and so gets a lot of
wind and driving rain. The wall also already has two layers of rendering - an
underlying layer that has probably been there thirty years, and a new layer that
is more like twenty years old. The outer layer is a very tough layer of some
kind of concrete, and is very hard almost to the point of feeling brittle.

We don't have any damp problems on that wall, at present.

Now the question is, what should I paint it with? I am looking for something
that will last a long time (10+ years), and will not cause any dampness. I have
no idea if some paints will seal in water and cause damp, or cause the rendering
to detach. Not knowing what the rendering is treated with (something that makes
it waterproof, no doubt) I also have to worry about what will "take" and not
peal off.

Any advice on what I should be looking for, while the clock is ticking (doing
this in three weeks from today!)

Here is the end wall, courtesy Google Street View:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonju...n/photostream/

The green is mostly gone now, and the chimney is leaving rather a lot more than
this!

Thanks,

-- Jason

Thanks for your help everyone - much appreciated. Even though this job is not
strictly DIY, I do like to know what I'm buying into, and I do like to get
involved as much as possible to keep the costs down. Rebuilding a chimney and
walking around 30ft up scaffolding is just not something I feel confident to
tackle, though I'll be painting the lower levels.

That's not say I won't be sneaking up there to take some pictures. Being
surrounded by sea on three sides should get me a nice view :-)

I'm probably going to be going for the Johnstone's Stormshield. I've had a few
local houses pointed out that have it, and they look great. Magnolia is on offer
at various places, but I suspect my partner has other ideas on colours. I'm not
sure if the "self cleaning" version is worth the 40% premium though. There is
very little explanation about what it actually means, apart from containing
miracle nano-particles (nano-bots may be the ideal solution though;-)

I've got lots of ivy to pull off before painting, so will probably be back here
in a panic shouting, "help - how do I get these little stringy bits off?!". I
might invest in a wire brush for that.

-- Jason

On Mon, 16 May 2011 23:17:40 +0100, Jason wrote:

Rebuilding a chimney and walking around 30ft up scaffolding is just not
something I feel confident to tackle, though I'll be painting the lower
levels.

I did the top of of our chimenys last year but that was large blocks
of hewn stone rather than brick. So getting the joints even, level
etc wasn't much of an issue.

Running about on the scaffold wasn't a problem for me you aren't
really exposed on a properly constructed scaffold. I'm not a great
one for heights, 12' up a ladder makes me nervous.

I've got lots of ivy to pull off before painting, so will probably be
back here in a panic shouting, "help - how do I get these little stringy
bits off?!". I might invest in a wire brush for that.

Hard work I should think, try a pressure washer. That's what I used
to clean the outside here, removes the loose paint and anything else
loose as well. Algae and moss no problem, ivy root remains are tough
though.

--
Cheers
Dave.

I've got lots of ivy to pull off before painting, so will probably be
back here in a panic shouting, "help - how do I get these little stringy
bits off?!". I might invest in a wire brush for that.

I removed a big beast from the house next door, so I had plenty of time
to experiment with different methods. The wire brush was a bit too
aggressive for yellow stocks and, in the end, I found an ordinary paint
scraper the best tool. Even on a crumbly Victorian wall, the stringy
bits were confined to the brick faces and hadn't got into the mortar
joints.

Hard work I should think, try a pressure washer. That's what I used
to clean the outside here, removes the loose paint and anything else
loose as well. Algae and moss no problem, ivy root remains are tough
though.


On this particular wall, my guess is that a pressure washer would have
cleared the mortar joints before it shifted the ivy, and created a lake
at the bottom of the ladder.

I'm probably going to be going for the Johnstone's Stormshield. I've had a few
local houses pointed out that have it, and they look great. Magnolia is on offer
at various places, but I suspect my partner has other ideas on colours.

The Stormshield range seems to cover the acrylics and the pliolite. I
would recommend the latter because, although it is essentially a trade
paint in that it can be applied in the depths of winter, it has out
performed any water based masonry paint I've ever used. Pricey though,
especially in non-magnolia :-)

On 17/05/2011 00:06, Dave Liquorice wrote:
...
I've got lots of ivy to pull off before painting, so will probably be
back here in a panic shouting, "help - how do I get these little stringy
bits off?!". I might invest in a wire brush for that.

Hard work I should think, try a pressure washer. That's what I used
to clean the outside here, removes the loose paint and anything else
loose as well. Algae and moss no problem, ivy root remains are tough
though.

Good idea - I'll give that a go. Got a £13 special from Lidl a few years ago -
works well, but bloomin' noisy.

The ivy is a kind of Boston ivy (which annoyingly does not go red in the
Autumn). It does mean its grip is not too tight and it tends to sit on the
surface rather than dig its way in. I cut the base a year ago, and so the whole
thing is brown and crispy now, and comes off pretty easily in huge chunks. A
wire brush gets the little bits off (I picked one up this morning), but the jet
washer sounds like a lot more fun :-)

-- Jason

On 17/05/2011 09:31, stuart noble wrote:

I've got lots of ivy to pull off before painting, so will probably be
back here in a panic shouting, "help - how do I get these little stringy
bits off?!". I might invest in a wire brush for that.

I removed a big beast from the house next door, so I had plenty of time to
experiment with different methods. The wire brush was a bit too aggressive for
yellow stocks and, in the end, I found an ordinary paint scraper the best tool.
Even on a crumbly Victorian wall, the stringy bits were confined to the brick
faces and hadn't got into the mortar joints.

I picked up a wire brush this morning, and it has a kind of paint scraper built
into the end of it. Tried it today, and it works well, but raises lots of dust.
Will try again with a mask tomorrow.

Hard work I should think, try a pressure washer. That's what I used
to clean the outside here, removes the loose paint and anything else
loose as well. Algae and moss no problem, ivy root remains are tough
though.


On this particular wall, my guess is that a pressure washer would have cleared
the mortar joints before it shifted the ivy, and created a lake at the bottom of
the ladder.

On 17/05/2011 09:53, stuart noble wrote:

I'm probably going to be going for the Johnstone's Stormshield. I've had a few
local houses pointed out that have it, and they look great. Magnolia is on offer
at various places, but I suspect my partner has other ideas on colours.

The Stormshield range seems to cover the acrylics and the pliolite. I would
recommend the latter because, although it is essentially a trade paint in that
it can be applied in the depths of winter, it has out performed any water based
masonry paint I've ever used. Pricey though, especially in non-magnolia :-)

Yep. I'm looking at six tins at getting on for £30 a tin. I haven't managed to
persuade my partner that the magnolia on £17 special from many places would be
the right colour. I did try ;-)

Thanks for the tip about the two types - I'll make sure it is the pliolite. I'm
looking at three coats - the first will probably soak in a lot and fill the
grain of the render (tough work), the second to give a nice colour coat, and the
third to hopefully give a bit more resilience to the biting NE Siberian winter
winds.

-- Jason

On 19/05/2011 01:37, Jason wrote:
On 17/05/2011 09:53, stuart noble wrote:

I'm probably going to be going for the Johnstone's Stormshield. I've had a few
local houses pointed out that have it, and they look great. Magnolia is on offer
at various places, but I suspect my partner has other ideas on colours.

The Stormshield range seems to cover the acrylics and the pliolite. I would
recommend the latter because, although it is essentially a trade paint in that
it can be applied in the depths of winter, it has out performed any water based
masonry paint I've ever used. Pricey though, especially in non-magnolia :-)

Yep. I'm looking at six tins at getting on for £30 a tin. I haven't managed to
persuade my partner that the magnolia on £17 special from many places would be
the right colour. I did try ;-)

Thanks for the tip about the two types - I'll make sure it is the pliolite. I'm
looking at three coats - the first will probably soak in a lot and fill the
grain of the render (tough work), the second to give a nice colour coat, and the
third to hopefully give a bit more resilience to the biting NE Siberian winter
winds.

-- Jason

IME coverage is excellent. It doesn't soak in nearly as much as a water
based paint, so you might need less than you thought.

On 19/05/2011 10:43, stuart noble wrote:
On 19/05/2011 01:37, Jason wrote:
On 17/05/2011 09:53, stuart noble wrote:

I'm probably going to be going for the Johnstone's Stormshield. I've had a few
local houses pointed out that have it, and they look great. Magnolia is on
offer
at various places, but I suspect my partner has other ideas on colours.

The Stormshield range seems to cover the acrylics and the pliolite. I would
recommend the latter because, although it is essentially a trade paint in that
it can be applied in the depths of winter, it has out performed any water based
masonry paint I've ever used. Pricey though, especially in non-magnolia :-)

Yep. I'm looking at six tins at getting on for £30 a tin. I haven't managed to
persuade my partner that the magnolia on £17 special from many places would be
the right colour. I did try ;-)

Thanks for the tip about the two types - I'll make sure it is the pliolite. I'm
looking at three coats - the first will probably soak in a lot and fill the
grain of the render (tough work), the second to give a nice colour coat, and the
third to hopefully give a bit more resilience to the biting NE Siberian winter
winds.

-- Jason

IME coverage is excellent. It doesn't soak in nearly as much as a water based
paint, so you might need less than you thought.

I suppose whether I can return it will depend on what colours we choose. There
are a couple dozen off-the-shelf colours that are ready-mixed (as far as I know)
so I could return any unused tins if I pick one of those.

I've also noticed Santex on offer in some local shops for half the price (£17/5
litres). The local decorating shop can mix any of the Dulux range of colours in
the store into that paint. It says "15 years guaranteed" on the tin, but I don't
know how it compares to the Stormshield. There is no description of any use on
their website though
(http://www.sandtex.co.uk/featured/sa...masonry-paint/)

-- Jason

IME coverage is excellent. It doesn't soak in nearly as much as a water based
paint, so you might need less than you thought.

I suppose whether I can return it will depend on what colours we choose. There
are a couple dozen off-the-shelf colours that are ready-mixed (as far as I know)
so I could return any unused tins if I pick one of those.

I've also noticed Santex on offer in some local shops for half the price (£17/5
litres). The local decorating shop can mix any of the Dulux range of colours in
the store into that paint. It says "15 years guaranteed" on the tin, but I don't
know how it compares to the Stormshield. There is no description of any use on
their website though
(http://www.sandtex.co.uk/featured/sa...masonry-paint/)

Sandtex is just another water based masonry paint. Not in the same class
as the pliolites.

On May 19, 9:55*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 19/05/2011 10:43, stuart noble wrote:









On 19/05/2011 01:37, Jason wrote:
On 17/05/2011 09:53, stuart noble wrote:

I'm probably going to be going for theJohnstone'sStormshield. I've
had a few
local houses pointed out that have it, and they look great. Magnolia
is on offer
at various places, but I suspect my partner has other ideas on colours.

TheStormshieldrange seems to cover the acrylics and thepliolite. I
would
recommend the latter because, although it is essentially a trade
paint in that
it can be applied in the depths of winter, it has out performed any
water based
masonry paint I've ever used. Pricey though, especially in
non-magnolia :-)

Yep. I'm looking at six tins at getting on for £30 a tin. I haven't
managed to
persuade my partner that the magnolia on £17 special frommanyplaces
would be
the right colour. I did try ;-)

Thanks for the tip about the two types - I'll make sure it is the
pliolite. I'm
looking at threecoats- the first will probably soak in a lot and
fill the
grain of the render (tough work), the second to give a nice colour
coat, and the
third to hopefully give a bit more resilience to the biting NE
Siberian winter
winds.

-- Jason

IME coverage is excellent. It doesn't soak in nearly as much as a water
based paint, so you might need less than you thought.

More to the point, you can use a cheap colour for the first coat.

Okay, we are going for the Pliolite for the whole wall (the final
colour, magnolia).

One question: the painter doing the high bits says two coats are all
that is needed. I suspect three would be better.

The first coat should be diluted with 10% white spirit to stabilise
the surface, that much I am sure. But two coats or three? If three
will add to the durability and lifetime, even just by a few years,
then that is what I'll do. If a third coat is a waste of money, then
I'll skip it.

Any opinions?

-- Jason

Okay, we are going for the Pliolite for the whole wall (the final
colour, magnolia).

Good. You got your way then!

One question: the painter doing the high bits says two coats are all
that is needed. I suspect three would be better.

I'm with the painter

The first coat should be diluted with 10% white spirit to stabilise
the surface, that much I am sure.

Are you? The solvent for this paint is naptha, so white spirit might
well screw things up. I'd use the stabilising solution recommended by
Johnstones if you think the surface needs it. You're paying enough for
the paint, might as well follow their advice :-)

But two coats or three? If three
will add to the durability and lifetime, even just by a few years,
then that is what I'll do. If a third coat is a waste of money, then
I'll skip it.

Any opinions?

-- Jason

On 27/05/2011 18:41, stuart noble wrote:

Okay, we are going for the Pliolite for the whole wall (the final
colour, magnolia).

Good. You got your way then!

One question: the painter doing the high bits says two coats are all
that is needed. I suspect three would be better.

I'm with the painter

The first coat should be diluted with 10% white spirit to stabilise
the surface, that much I am sure.

Are you? The solvent for this paint is naptha, so white spirit might well screw
things up. I'd use the stabilising solution recommended by Johnstones if you
think the surface needs it. You're paying enough for the paint, might as well
follow their advice :-)

Hmm, okay, perhaps I have been reading advice in the wrong forums. I should
stick to the discussion group I trust :-)

The PDF spec provided by Johnstones, and downloadable from a could of places,
does have slightly conflicting advice. It says in one paragraph:

It provides a smooth matt finish that has excellent adhesion to
previously painted and suitably sealed surfaces.

And then it says on the same page:

Excellent adhesion to previously painted or untreated
porous surfaces.

I don't think the surface is particularly porous. It is hard rendering, and not
soft limestone or spalled brick. Maybe there is no conflict and rendering can be
considered "suitably sealed"?

-- Jason

On 27/05/2011 18:55, John Rumm wrote:
On 27/05/2011 16:15, Jason Judge wrote:
On May 19, 9:55 pm, John wrote:
On 19/05/2011 10:43, stuart noble wrote:


IME coverage is excellent. It doesn't soak in nearly as much as a water
based paint, so you might need less than you thought.

More to the point, you can use a cheap colour for the first coat.

Okay, we are going for the Pliolite for the whole wall (the final
colour, magnolia).

One question: the painter doing the high bits says two coats are all
that is needed. I suspect three would be better.

Two ought to be plenty.

The first coat should be diluted with 10% white spirit to stabilise
the surface, that much I am sure. But two coats or three? If three

Don't do that. If the wall needs stabilising, then use the Johnstones stab
solution first, and then two coats.

will add to the durability and lifetime, even just by a few years,
then that is what I'll do. If a third coat is a waste of money, then
I'll skip it.

Personally I don't think the third coat would be worth it.

Cheers. Two coats it is then.

The main cost to me here is the scaffolding rather than the paint, so I just
wanted to make sure I got best use of that, even if it needed an extra thirty
quid of paint.

I don't think the surface is particularly porous. It is hard rendering, and not
soft limestone or spalled brick. Maybe there is no conflict and rendering can be
considered "suitably sealed"?

I would have thought so