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Default warming up a north facing outside wall?

where i only own the ground floor...

so cavity wall insulation isn't really an option as upstairs dont seem
to have the problem as bad.

a plasterer suggested insulating plasterboard on top of the walls
which takes about an inch of room space? but then there are
radiators, wall sockets, heating pipes etc to think about?

are there any other options to try and stop this cold wall attracting
the water vapour and turning to mould? i have heard of anti mould
paint or wallpaper but i'm guessing these aren't a real solution?

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"benpost" wrote in message
...
where i only own the ground floor...

so cavity wall insulation isn't really an option as upstairs dont seem
to have the problem as bad.

a plasterer suggested insulating plasterboard on top of the walls
which takes about an inch of room space? but then there are
radiators, wall sockets, heating pipes etc to think about?

are there any other options to try and stop this cold wall attracting
the water vapour and turning to mould? i have heard of anti mould
paint or wallpaper but i'm guessing these aren't a real solution?


Cavity wall insulation. Get upstairs to do it and share the cost. Even if
you have to foot the lot, it is still the best way.

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Default warming up a north facing outside wall?

benpost wrote:
where i only own the ground floor...

so cavity wall insulation isn't really an option as upstairs dont seem
to have the problem as bad.

a plasterer suggested insulating plasterboard on top of the walls
which takes about an inch of room space? but then there are
radiators, wall sockets, heating pipes etc to think about?

are there any other options to try and stop this cold wall attracting
the water vapour and turning to mould? i have heard of anti mould
paint or wallpaper but i'm guessing these aren't a real solution?

A very thin layer of insulant - like polystyrene sheet or cork tiles -
will generally be enough to lift the surface temperature above the dew
point and stop condensation.

But an inch of celotex is a lot better, and yes, it does mean moving
EVERYTHING attached to that wall.
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Default warming up a north facing outside wall?

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
benpost wrote:

where i only own the ground floor...

so cavity wall insulation isn't really an option as upstairs dont seem
to have the problem as bad.


Well then just fill the cavity up to your ceiling level - if the people
above don't want their bit doing then sobeit.
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Default warming up a north facing outside wall?

On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 15:10:42 -0800 (PST), benpost wrote:

so cavity wall insulation isn't really an option as upstairs dont seem
to have the problem as bad.


I wouldn't expect a cavity wall, insulated or not, to present a
condensation problem on the wall.

are there any other options to try and stop this cold wall attracting
the water vapour and turning to mould?


Remove the water vapour by ventilation. Where is the water coming from? Do
the kitchen(s) and bathroom(s) have extractor fans the vent to the
outside? If they do are they used... Beware of cooker hoods that only
recirculate the air rather than extract it.

Is this an older property that has had double glazing added? This can
often lead to condensation problems as the previous ventilation has been
removed.

i have heard of anti mould paint or wallpaper but i'm guessing these
aren't a real solution?


Correct.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail





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"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
benpost wrote:

where i only own the ground floor...

so cavity wall insulation isn't really an option as upstairs dont seem
to have the problem as bad.


Well then just fill the cavity up to your ceiling level - if the people
above don't want their bit doing then sobeit.


They will not partially fill and water can move across the top of the
insulation.

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Default warming up a north facing outside wall?

On 29 Dec, 01:29, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
"Roger Mills" wrote in message

...

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
benpost *wrote:


where i only own the ground floor...


so cavity wall insulation isn't really an option as upstairs dont seem
to have the problem as bad.


Well then just fill the cavity up to your ceiling level - if the people
above don't want their bit doing then sobeit.


They will not partially fill and water can move across the top of the
insulation.


I'm a bit late to this thread so forgive me if I repeat other advice.
Simple if expensive solutions are (1) De-humidifier and/or (2) Incease
the tempurature in the room. The de-humidifier will do the job on its
own but will work a bit better with a bit of heat. Increasing the
temperature in the room should heat up the cold surfaces on which the
humid air is condensing. I don't believe all the insulation in the
world will help unless you have some heat in the room first. We had a
bungalow once where the kitchen and living room faced south and the
bedrooms faced north. All the humid air migrated to the north of the
house, which it will tend to do naturally I believe. We tried a de-
humidifier in one of the rooms and boy did it collect water. Would
have needed one on each room so eventually scrooge (me) agreed to run
the radiators on this sided of the house for longer periods. Cured the
problem.

While ventilation will help it can make the rooms very cold. It is
best to vent at the source of the humid air, usually the kitchen and
bathrooms though you may have an indoor pool I suppose, which can give
real problems with condensations.

Paul Mc Cann
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Default warming up a north facing outside wall?

no spam here, thanks wrote:
On Fri, 28 Dec 2007 23:36:05 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:


A very thin layer of insulant - like polystyrene sheet or cork tiles -
will generally be enough to lift the surface temperature above the dew
point and stop condensation.


Yup. We have a north facing kitchen wall which used to drip water
(kitchens are a humid place!!). The polystyrene insulation roll from
B&Q stopped it totally. But it's a crappy, soft, easily dented surface
- it's not a 'finish' but something you need to do something over ...
tile? I don't know, might work. It's very fragile until bonded to the
wall, then it's just soft, but doesn't tear. I used PVA to fix to wall.


Thats why I reckon cork is a shade better.

Youu can always paper/tile over it.

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