Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a bit; if
only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the 'medium
density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density' - it
does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]

I see there are some hand saws to cut blocks although most (but not all) of
them say they are for lightweight blocks.
I have some difficulty visualising cutting the 'medium density' concrete
blocks with a hand saw.
Is this practical?

Using Google I have seen various descriptions of block cutting methods.
Scoring with a cold chisel all round the block seems to be a very slow way.
Is scoring all the way round with a small angle grinder a good way to
prepare blocks for cutting?

The alternative seems to be the huge and nasty looking stone cutters you see
builders using.
These look expensive and potentially dangerous.
Are these necessary or are there better ways?

I intend to use stretcher bond to build single block walls but will
obviously have to cut blocks to fit in doors and windows and also where the
wall length is not divisible by the block length.

TIA

Dave R

On Feb 27, 2:08*pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:


I see there are some hand saws to cut blocks although most (but not all) of
them say they are for lightweight blocks.
I have some difficulty visualising cutting the 'medium density' concrete
blocks with a hand saw.
Is this practical?

not a hope in hell. Use an angle grinder.


NT

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a bit;
if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the 'medium
density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density' - it
does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]
snip

Any idea how much to allow for wastage?
I am not the best cutter of bricks etc.

David WE Roberts wrote:
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a
bit; if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the
'medium density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density' - it
does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]

I see there are some hand saws to cut blocks although most (but not all)
of them say they are for lightweight blocks.
I have some difficulty visualising cutting the 'medium density' concrete
blocks with a hand saw.
Is this practical?

Using Google I have seen various descriptions of block cutting methods.
Scoring with a cold chisel all round the block seems to be a very slow way.
Is scoring all the way round with a small angle grinder a good way to
prepare blocks for cutting?


I just use a bolster and a club hammer.

If I want a pretty result, I don't use concrete blocks ;-)

David WE Roberts wrote:
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a
bit; if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the
'medium density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density' -
it does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]

medium density aren't packed as tightly in the mould as dense blocks
are....I think they just use a dry mix and don't pack it down, wheras a
dense block is mixed wet and then vibrated during manufacture to expel air
and to strengthen the blocks


I see there are some hand saws to cut blocks although most (but not
all) of them say they are for lightweight blocks.
I have some difficulty visualising cutting the 'medium density'
concrete blocks with a hand saw.
Is this practical?


you can't cut concrete blocks with any kind of handsaw, these are for the
'thermalite' type of blocks


Using Google I have seen various descriptions of block cutting
methods. Scoring with a cold chisel all round the block seems to be a
very slow way. Is scoring all the way round with a small angle
grinder a good way to prepare blocks for cutting?


they can be cut with a bolster chisel but as you say it's time consuming and
not very accurate


The alternative seems to be the huge and nasty looking stone cutters
you see builders using.
These look expensive and potentially dangerous.
Are these necessary or are there better ways?

9 inch diamond disc in large angle grinder, failing that, a small disc in a
small grinder will cut an inch into it all the way around and then a few
taps with aforementioned bolster will snap it off - the cut isn't clean, but
it is at the edges and this is what will be visible IYSWIM


I intend to use stretcher bond to build single block walls but will
obviously have to cut blocks to fit in doors and windows and also
where the wall length is not divisible by the block length.


You make the wall length to suit full blocks :-P take a block and use it as
a measure, starting at one corner and marking a scratch on the concrete
where it ends, then move it along, leaving an inch (or just less) for the
joint and make another scratch, continue until you reach the opposite
corner - if it works out that you have an odd size left, of say, 6 inches,
start your building 3 inches in from where you began, meaning you will have
3 inches of concrete showing at each end.
It's entirely up to you of course, but I think pieces in a wall (which will
be all the way up to the top) looks hideous, and it is going to be on show.
If you are ordering the windows and doors afterwards, build the openings
block sized, that is to say you have full and half blocks up each side of
the openings, rather than 2 inch pieces on one side and 4 inch peices on the
other. It's more economical because obviously you get two usuable pieces
with each cut and it looks better, but if yuou already have the windows etc,
then you have to build the openings to suit them.,

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

David WE Roberts wrote:
"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a
bit; if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the
'medium density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density'
- it does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]
snip

Any idea how much to allow for wastage?
I am not the best cutter of bricks etc.

I'd order what I needed to be delivered, and then pick up a dozen or so at a
time if any extras are required, you are better under ordering with blocks.

Also forgot to ask, are you intending adding any butresses? - if the wall is
longer than 4m, you'll need a buttress in the middle, basically just a stack
of blocks, tied into the main wall with tie wires on every course

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

David WE Roberts wrote:
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a
bit; if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the
'medium density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density' - it
does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]

I see there are some hand saws to cut blocks although most (but not all)
of them say they are for lightweight blocks.
I have some difficulty visualising cutting the 'medium density' concrete
blocks with a hand saw.
Is this practical?

Using Google I have seen various descriptions of block cutting methods.
Scoring with a cold chisel all round the block seems to be a very slow way.
Is scoring all the way round with a small angle grinder a good way to
prepare blocks for cutting?

The alternative seems to be the huge and nasty looking stone cutters you
see builders using.
These look expensive and potentially dangerous.
Are these necessary or are there better ways?

I intend to use stretcher bond to build single block walls but will
obviously have to cut blocks to fit in doors and windows and also where
the wall length is not divisible by the block length.

TIA

Dave R
use an angle grinder with a diamond blade, they are cheap as chips now

"Phil L" wrote in message
om...
David WE Roberts wrote:
"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a
bit; if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the
'medium density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density'
- it does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]
snip

Any idea how much to allow for wastage?
I am not the best cutter of bricks etc.

I'd order what I needed to be delivered, and then pick up a dozen or so at
a time if any extras are required, you are better under ordering with
blocks.

Also forgot to ask, are you intending adding any butresses? - if the wall
is longer than 4m, you'll need a buttress in the middle, basically just a
stack of blocks, tied into the main wall with tie wires on every course

I will need to add something in the middle of the back wall as it is 7.8m
long.
The front wall will also need some extra support and I am contemplating how
to work this in around windows, doors, and a place for the stove.
On the front wall this may end up as a fireplace for the stove to provide
sides for protection from the hot metal.

I have more or less decided to go for the maximum length of block wall and
ignore the fact that part blocks look less pretty.
For three sides this is not an issue as they are facing a fence.
The only visible area is the front and the doors are going to make a
difference to the number of blocks.

I can always hide stuff behind plant etc, or perhaps render the front wall.

Mainly, I don't mind if it is ugly as long as it is up!
[As the actress said to the bishop]

I would like to be able to get concrete blocks at less than £1 per block
because I need at least 330 blocks to do the back and sides.

Cheers

Dave R

David WE Roberts wrote:

The alternative seems to be the huge and nasty looking stone cutters you
see builders using.
These look expensive and potentially dangerous.

Correct, but there are disadvantages as well

On Feb 27, 3:34 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message

om...



David WE Roberts wrote:
"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a
bit; if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the
'medium density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density'
- it does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]
snip

Any idea how much to allow for wastage?
I am not the best cutter of bricks etc.

I'd order what I needed to be delivered, and then pick up a dozen or so at
a time if any extras are required, you are better under ordering with
blocks.

Also forgot to ask, are you intending adding any butresses? - if the wall
is longer than 4m, you'll need a buttress in the middle, basically just a
stack of blocks, tied into the main wall with tie wires on every course

I will need to add something in the middle of the back wall as it is 7.8m
long.
The front wall will also need some extra support and I am contemplating how
to work this in around windows, doors, and a place for the stove.
On the front wall this may end up as a fireplace for the stove to provide
sides for protection from the hot metal.

I'd be wary of enclosing your stove too tightly (if at all) as it'll
stifle it and take longer and use more fuel to heat the space up.
Could you praps place it in a corner and let it convect and radiate
out from there without being "boxed in"?

Cheers
JimK

"Steve Walker" wrote in message
...
David WE Roberts wrote:

The alternative seems to be the huge and nasty looking stone cutters you
see builders using.
These look expensive and potentially dangerous.

Correct, but there are disadvantages as well

:-)

"JimK" wrote in message
...
On Feb 27, 3:34 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
snip
Also forgot to ask, are you intending adding any butresses? - if the
wall
is longer than 4m, you'll need a buttress in the middle, basically just
a
stack of blocks, tied into the main wall with tie wires on every course

I will need to add something in the middle of the back wall as it is 7.8m
long.
The front wall will also need some extra support and I am contemplating
how
to work this in around windows, doors, and a place for the stove.
On the front wall this may end up as a fireplace for the stove to provide
sides for protection from the hot metal.

I'd be wary of enclosing your stove too tightly (if at all) as it'll
stifle it and take longer and use more fuel to heat the space up.
Could you praps place it in a corner and let it convect and radiate
out from there without being "boxed in"?

I plead special circumstances.........

As I am building up to my 3 rear boundaries I have decided to site the stove
pipe as far away from all the neighbours and their washing as possible.
This means the location is the middle of the front of the building.
As I intend to have work surfaces either side under the windows I need some
protection from direct radiation and also contact.
I may also make provision for stacking wood either side of the stove to aid
the final drying process.
It depends on how much room I have.
4 blocks high is 900mm which fits nicely with work surfaces.
Air flow will be from a vent by the base of the stove so it won't be
stifled.
It won't be the most efficient radiator and not the most efficient general
heating as I will have two windows on the front wall as well but I do have
the stove already and it should certainly keep the chill off the workshop in
the winter if required.
It should also boil a kettle if required :-)

Question now is will 2 * 900mm high block walls be enough to stabilise the
front wall or will I still need a pillar to the roof?
I could take the walls all the way up at half a block (or a block stood on
end and bonded every other course) or go all the way up at a full block and
build the bottom four courses out further than the top six.

Cheers

Dave R

On Mar 1, 5:57 pm, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:
"JimK" wrote in message

I'd be wary of enclosing your stove too tightly (if at all) as it'll
stifle it and take longer and use more fuel to heat the space up.
Could you praps place it in a corner and let it convect and radiate
out from there without being "boxed in"?


I'm having a little trouble visualising all this but here goes:-

As I am building up to my 3 rear boundaries I have decided to site the stove
pipe as far away from all the neighbours and their washing as possible.

but will they (reasonably) be hanging washing out when you need the
stove lit?

As I intend to have work surfaces either side under the windows I need some
protection from direct radiation and also contact.
I may also make provision for stacking wood either side of the stove to aid
the final drying process.

how will the worktops be held up either side of the stove then?
and how much gap would there be between the drying wood and the stove?

It depends on how much room I have.
Air flow will be from a vent by the base of the stove so it won't be
stifled.

A Vent to where? if to outside... I'd not bother as you'll *always* be
trying to heat cold outside air sucked straight in rather than
reheating warmer inside air....path of least resistance and all
that...

By stifled I meant unable to convect efficiently (not starved of
O2 :)

The point I was making was stoves are designed for, and work at their
best with, space around them in all dimensions to convect, rather than
just radiate (open fire). When they are "boxed in" (under a fireplace,
between slabs of blocks up to celiling etc) the air in the room
cannot easily move around as convection currents are limited by the
obstructions - so you get colder areas that "don;t feel the heat" etc.

Plus any constructional blockwork (not insulated from the outside) etc
close to the stove will *not* work as "thermal mass" to retain heat,
rather it will work as a heatsink aka "cold bridge" - so you could be
peeing in the wind to some extent...

It won't be the most efficient radiator and not the most efficient general
heating as I will have two windows on the front wall as well but I do have
the stove already and it should certainly keep the chill off the workshop in
the winter if required.
It should also boil a kettle if required :-)

Is it a pot belly type?

Cheers
JimK

** Replies plugged into the text **

"JimK" wrote in message
...
On Mar 1, 5:57 pm, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:
"JimK" wrote in message

I'd be wary of enclosing your stove too tightly (if at all) as it'll
stifle it and take longer and use more fuel to heat the space up.
Could you praps place it in a corner and let it convect and radiate
out from there without being "boxed in"?


I'm having a little trouble visualising all this but here goes:-

As I am building up to my 3 rear boundaries I have decided to site the
stove
pipe as far away from all the neighbours and their washing as possible.

but will they (reasonably) be hanging washing out when you need the
stove lit?

Yes - the two neighbours at the bottom of my garden (I am near a corner
where two roads meet so the gardens of the houses in the street at right
angles go across the bottom of my garden) both put washing out every day.
The bottom but one garden has an impressive pole which raises the washing up
to first floor level - rather like the flags of a ship entering port.


As I intend to have work surfaces either side under the windows I need
some
protection from direct radiation and also contact.
I may also make provision for stacking wood either side of the stove to
aid
the final drying process.

how will the worktops be held up either side of the stove then?
and how much gap would there be between the drying wood and the stove?

They will either be on wooden frames or on wood attached to the mini walls.
Plenty of scope for recovering old kitchen base units and reusing them.

Gap between stove and wood is up for calculation but I am currently
visualising something like a chimney breast without the bit that goes over
the fire. This is where the stove used to be in our other house. A bit more
width gives extra space for stacking wood.

It depends on how much room I have.
Air flow will be from a vent by the base of the stove so it won't be
stifled.

A Vent to where? if to outside... I'd not bother as you'll *always* be
trying to heat cold outside air sucked straight in rather than
reheating warmer inside air....path of least resistance and all
that...

In a habitable room a solid fuel stove must have permanent ventilation from
the outside.
I intend to insulate and eliminate draughts as much as possible so I will
need air to feed the stove.
Better to take fesh air in at the base of the stove and draw it straight
into the stove than draw cold air across the room and take warm air into the
stove.

By stifled I meant unable to convect efficiently (not starved of
O2 :)

The point I was making was stoves are designed for, and work at their
best with, space around them in all dimensions to convect, rather than
just radiate (open fire). When they are "boxed in" (under a fireplace,
between slabs of blocks up to celiling etc) the air in the room
cannot easily move around as convection currents are limited by the
obstructions - so you get colder areas that "don;t feel the heat" etc.

Plus any constructional blockwork (not insulated from the outside) etc
close to the stove will *not* work as "thermal mass" to retain heat,
rather it will work as a heatsink aka "cold bridge" - so you could be
peeing in the wind to some extent...

It won't be the most efficient radiator and not the most efficient
general
heating as I will have two windows on the front wall as well but I do
have
the stove already and it should certainly keep the chill off the workshop
in
the winter if required.
It should also boil a kettle if required :-)

Is it a pot belly type?

It is a modern airwash stove
http://www.stovax.com/products.htm?cid=4&sid=8&pid=200 IIRC
I know it says no room vent required but the original installer didn't
believe this.
It certainly performed O.K. in a traditional chimney breast in a lounge and
in the shed there will be nothing above it to stop the heat circulating.
Granted that the greatest radiation of heat is given if the radiating body
is in the centre of the area to be heated I haven't seem many houses with
radiators slap bang in the middle of the lounge ;-)

My main concern is keeeping the hot stove seperate from work areas and
cupboards.

I may add extra insulation behind the stove to keep more heat in the room -
this shouldn't be difficult.

Any pier to provide support to the wall is unlikely to come into the room as
far as the stove.
In fact, I might just put a standard pier directly behind where the stove is
to go, giving a double thickness wall.
Width is 389mm so a 440mm wide pier directly behind it seems reasonable,
with a wall 4 blocks high either side to form a protective barrier for the
rest of the room.

Most of this is a future thing - just need to clarify in my own mind what
needs bonding into the walls as I build them.

Cheers

Dave R

On Mar 2, 3:38 pm, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:

I'm having a little trouble visualising all this but here goes:-

As I am building up to my 3 rear boundaries I have decided to site the
stove
pipe as far away from all the neighbours and their washing as possible.

but will they (reasonably) be hanging washing out when you need the
stove lit?

Yes - the two neighbours at the bottom of my garden (I am near a corner
where two roads meet so the gardens of the houses in the street at right
angles go across the bottom of my garden) both put washing out every day.
The bottom but one garden has an impressive pole which raises the washing up
to first floor level - rather like the flags of a ship entering port.


but do they really hang washing out on rainy days or in winter when
it's proper cold?!

As I intend to have work surfaces either side under the windows I need
some
protection from direct radiation and also contact.
I may also make provision for stacking wood either side of the stove to
aid
the final drying process.

how will the worktops be held up either side of the stove then?
and how much gap would there be between the drying wood and the stove?

They will either be on wooden frames or on wood attached to the mini walls.
Plenty of scope for recovering old kitchen base units and reusing them.

Gap between stove and wood is up for calculation but I am currently
visualising something like a chimney breast without the bit that goes over
the fire. This is where the stove used to be in our other house. A bit more
width gives extra space for stacking wood


It depends on how much room I have.
Air flow will be from a vent by the base of the stove so it won't be
stifled.

A Vent to where? if to outside... I'd not bother as you'll *always* be
trying to heat cold outside air sucked straight in rather than
reheating warmer inside air....path of least resistance and all
that...

In a habitable room a solid fuel stove must have permanent ventilation from
the outside.

erm sometimes:-

1) - the definition of "habitable room" is up for grabs to say the
least.
you're building a luxury shed aren;t you? of a size ISTR that does not
involve BRegs or PP? so you can of course do what you like ;)

2) permanent vents only needed for stoves over 5kw - yours is 4kw from
the link you gave, plus BRegs don't apply to your construction so ....

Better to take fesh air in at the base of the stove and draw it straight
into the stove than draw cold air across the room and take warm air into the
stove.

Not in my book no - that will mangle any convection currents you (or
at least I :)) would be looking to create as there would then be less
(warm or cool) air movement around the room.

Have a look at your stove and see where the airwash vents are...I
expect they'll be at the top on the front so that cold air from
outside is going to have to travel a fair way (and get warmed up in
the process) before it gets anywhere near where you want it to
go...assuming you will be burning wood you'll be using airwash/top fed
air all the time.

There are also arguments about air vents doing the opposite of what
they're supposed to in unfavourable weather conditions -i.e. working
backwards..

Granted that the greatest radiation of heat is given if the radiating body
is in the centre of the area to be heated I haven't seem many houses with
radiators slap bang in the middle of the lounge ;-)

Thats beacuse they work by convection rather than true radiation ;)


My main concern is keeeping the hot stove seperate from work areas and
cupboards.

I may add extra insulation behind the stove to keep more heat in the room -
this shouldn't be difficult.

Any pier to provide support to the wall is unlikely to come into the room as
far as the stove.
In fact, I might just put a standard pier directly behind where the stove is
to go, giving a double thickness wall.

could you insulate within it? like a cavity wall?

Width is 389mm so a 440mm wide pier directly behind it seems reasonable,
with a wall 4 blocks high either side to form a protective barrier for the
rest of the room.

I still don't understand what you're seeking to protect and from what
- the stove you mention is 4kw peak flat out

However if you take my point and make those 4 block high walls
thermally seperate form the rest of the building- *once they have
warmed up* they'll then radiate the heat back out for longer than the
stove is lit....

Cheers
JimK

"JimK" wrote in message
...
On Mar 2, 3:38 pm, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:

I'm having a little trouble visualising all this but here goes:-

As I am building up to my 3 rear boundaries I have decided to site the
stove
pipe as far away from all the neighbours and their washing as
possible.

but will they (reasonably) be hanging washing out when you need the
stove lit?

Yes - the two neighbours at the bottom of my garden (I am near a corner
where two roads meet so the gardens of the houses in the street at right
angles go across the bottom of my garden) both put washing out every day.
The bottom but one garden has an impressive pole which raises the washing
up
to first floor level - rather like the flags of a ship entering port.


but do they really hang washing out on rainy days or in winter when
it's proper cold?!
snip

Bloody cold at the moment, but not raining.
I expect to see washing hanging out soon.
They hang washing out any day it is not raining.

Can I ask you in turn if you only heat your house on rainy days or in
winter?
Or do you heat it when it is cold?

Over time I am bound to want to heat the workshop when they are hanging
washing out so I am trying to minimise the impact.

With an oblong room it is logical to put the heat source as near the centre
of the long wall as possible.
This also puts it (in my case) as far away from the doors as possible.
Choice is then rear wall (right next to washing line) or front wall.
Simples.

On 3 Mar, 08:51, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:
"JimK" wrote in message

...

On Mar 2, 3:38 pm, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:

I'm having a little trouble visualising all this but here goes:-

As I am building up to my 3 rear boundaries I have decided to site the
stove
pipe as far away from all the neighbours and their washing as
possible.

but will they (reasonably) be hanging washing out when you need the
stove lit?

Yes - the two neighbours at the bottom of my garden (I am near a corner
where two roads meet so the gardens of the houses in the street at right
angles go across the bottom of my garden) both put washing out every day.
The bottom but one garden has an impressive pole which raises the washing
up
to first floor level - rather like the flags of a ship entering port.

but do they really hang washing out on rainy days or in winter when
it's proper cold?!

snip

Bloody cold at the moment, but not raining.
I expect to see washing hanging out soon.
They hang washing out any day it is not raining.

Can I ask you in turn if you only heat your house on rainy days or in
winter?
Or do you heat it when it is cold?

erm yes naturally and obviously I heat it whenever i like - tho of
course I am not using a smokey stove in a shed surrounded by other
peoples houses, gardens and washing.

The point I am getting at is:- do you seriously believe you will get
less complaints (originating) from your neighbours because your smoke
stack is a "couple of metres" further away from their washing than it
could be?

I suspect someone will complain esp as you appear from what you've
described to be in a built up area - is it a smoke control area? -
have you asked neighbours what they think of your plan?

Also if you plan on heating it every time its "cold" have you also
thought how much fuel you will need to burn? and where to store it?
Could be the rest of the garden! :)

I think you may find those two points worthy of consideration,
however, obviously, it's entirely up to you :)

Cheers
JimK

David WE Roberts wrote:
....
I intend to use stretcher bond to build single block walls but will
obviously have to cut blocks to fit in doors and windows and also where
the wall length is not divisible by the block length.

I find it quicker and easier to use bricks to fill in odd shapes. Some
still need to be cut, but that is easily done with a bolster chisel.

Colin Bignell

"Nightjar "cpb"@" "insertmysurnamehere wrote in message
...
David WE Roberts wrote:
...
I intend to use stretcher bond to build single block walls but will
obviously have to cut blocks to fit in doors and windows and also where
the wall length is not divisible by the block length.

I find it quicker and easier to use bricks to fill in odd shapes. Some
still need to be cut, but that is easily done with a bolster chisel.

Colin Bignell

I am trying to avoid mixing concrete bricks and blocks as much as possible
because of the appearance.
I will have to do this around the lintels but as I don't plan to render I
want to keep the general appearance of the front as neat as posssible.

On 4 Mar, 10:04, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:
"Nightjar "cpb"@" "insertmysurnamehere wrote in message

...

David WE Roberts wrote:
...
I intend to use stretcher bond to build single block walls but will
obviously have to cut blocks to fit in doors and windows and also where
the wall length is not divisible by the block length.

I find it quicker and easier to use bricks to fill in odd shapes. Some
still need to be cut, but that is easily done with a bolster chisel.

Colin Bignell

I am trying to avoid mixing concrete bricks and blocks as much as possible
because of the appearance.
I will have to do this around the lintels but as I don't plan to render I
want to keep the general appearance of the front as neat as posssible.

could use concrete "commons" (bricks) - same colour as blocks
(usually:)

Cheers
JimK

David WE Roberts wrote:

"Nightjar "cpb"@" "insertmysurnamehere wrote in message
...
David WE Roberts wrote:
...
I intend to use stretcher bond to build single block walls but will
obviously have to cut blocks to fit in doors and windows and also
where the wall length is not divisible by the block length.

I find it quicker and easier to use bricks to fill in odd shapes. Some
still need to be cut, but that is easily done with a bolster chisel.

Colin Bignell

I am trying to avoid mixing concrete bricks and blocks as much as
possible because of the appearance...

It never occurred to me that anyone using blockwork would be concerned
about the appearance :-)

Colin Bignell

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...
Getting closer to wall building time now the weather has warmed up a bit;
if only it would stop raining!

I will obviously need to cut concrete blocks - I will be using the 'medium
density' blocks for external walls with no rendering.
[At least I think the normal ones are described as 'medium density' - it
does beg the question as to what 'dense' blocks are.]
snip
Is scoring all the way round with a small angle grinder a good way to
prepare blocks for cutting?

The alternative seems to be the huge and nasty looking stone cutters you
see builders using.
These look expensive and potentially dangerous.
Are these necessary or are there better ways?
snip

If in doubt, go for the brutal option.

I tried scoring a block with an angle grinder and then using a bolster and
club hammer and the 100mm block broke and the join on the 3/4 block was very
ragged because of all the aggregate.

Went and hired a petrol powered stone cutter and it went through the block
like a knife through (hard) butter.
Looking at the cut face there were some really chunky bits of stone and I
don't see any way that those would split cleanly with a bolster.

So noisy and dusty is the way to go.

Cheers

Dave R