I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. The block is
aluminium.

Thanks
Rob

robgraham wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. The block is
aluminium.

Thanks
Rob
"Not much" is as near as I can give you


More ally is damaged by stripping than by exhaust blowing out of it..

"robgraham" wrote in message
...
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. The block is
aluminium.

Recommended bolt torques for a given thread and bolt material spec can be
looked up on any number of web sites. GIFFS.
--
Dave Baker

Dave Baker wrote:
"robgraham" wrote in message
...
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. The block is
aluminium.

Recommended bolt torques for a given thread and bolt material spec can be
looked up on any number of web sites. GIFFS.

GIFFS? Not heard that one before...

"Google it for f*cks sake", I'm guessing?

On 16 Apr, 21:18, "Dave Baker" wrote:
"robgraham" wrote in message

...

I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. *It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. *The block is
aluminium.

Recommended bolt torques for a given thread and bolt material spec can be
looked up on any number of web sites. GIFFS.
--
Dave Baker

Well OK - but if you search on "torque aluminum steel" for instance,
there are a large number of hits and they aren't really supplying the
information in a way that I can understand. Perhaps you could be
helpful and do a little bit of explanation for me please.

I ended up on this website

http://www.thelenchannel.com/1torque.php

In the first table, are the materials quoted there that of the bolt or
the threaded body ? A bolt if over torqued breaks due to the
twisting, whereas an over torqued threaded hole will strip out the
threads and these, I would have thought, will not be the same for
similar materials, so I'm not sure how to interpret this table.

Thanks
Rob

In message
, Rob
G writes
Well OK - but if you search on "torque aluminum steel" for instance,
there are a large number of hits and they aren't really supplying the
information in a way that I can understand.
Why on earth would you not google for 'Briggs Stratton head bolt
torque'.


Rob

--
Clint Sharp

On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 20:11:02 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
"Not much" is as near as I can give you

More ally is damaged by stripping than by exhaust blowing out of it..

Tighten until threads strip, fit helicoil to resulting hole, then don't
tighten as much the next time :-)

On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham
wrote:

I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. The block is
aluminium.

Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones. They are complete with
dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded views and torque
figures, find something that looks similar in construction and use the
figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nav3&subMenu=3



--

On 17 Apr, 01:02, Clint Sharp wrote:
In message
, Rob
G writesWell OK - but if you search on "torque aluminum steel" for instance,
there are a large number of hits and they aren't really supplying the
information in a way that I can understand.

Why on earth would you not google for 'Briggs Stratton head bolt
torque'.

Rob

--
Clint Sharp

Because I did so and couldn't make sense of the engine type numbering
system, and reckoned that someone here would know the typical torque
for steel bolts ( ~5/16") in Aluminium.

In fact for once this forum has not been as helpful as usual, and the
answer hasn't been as rapidly forthcoming as I expected. It seems
that the current attendees are all involved in house building and not
the broader aspects of DIY.

Anyway with a lot of hunting around on the B & S website I found how
to read the engine number, but that wouldn't produce a manual. An
email query found another FAQ which showed torques for all engines,
which I could then interpret having the engine number.

In the end the torque is the same as that shown on thelenchannel
website for steel in aluminium, so it is a standard figure, which I
had hoped someone here would have known.

Considering how many queries come up on this site which are a good
deal less complex than this one, and never get told to go and hunt for
yourself, I find it somewhat offensive that I got that answer. It
would seem the answer is if the question is easy, then answer it and
get your name in print, otherwise tell the OP to go and hunt himself.

Rob

On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. *It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. *The block is
aluminium.

Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones. *They are complete with
dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded views and torque
figures, find something that looks similar in construction and use the
figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--

Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob

Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. The block is
aluminium.
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones. They are complete with
dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded views and torque
figures, find something that looks similar in construction and use the
figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--

Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob
That sounds WAY too much.

10 stone on a foot bar?

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to
tighten the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single
cylinder, side valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's
vintage. The block is aluminium.
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones. They are complete with
dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded views and torque
figures, find something that looks similar in construction and use
the figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--

Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob
That sounds WAY too much.

10 stone on a foot bar?


Thanks, I thought my memory was at fault. Seem to recall doing BMCs to about
150 ft lbs. years ago which were not aluminium!

Clot wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to
tighten the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single
cylinder, side valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's
vintage. The block is aluminium.
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones. They are complete with
dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded views and torque
figures, find something that looks similar in construction and use
the figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob
That sounds WAY too much.

10 stone on a foot bar?


Thanks, I thought my memory was at fault. Seem to recall doing BMCs to about
150 ft lbs. years ago which were not aluminium!


Im just looking in a haynes manual Cast iron cylinder head bolts 40lb ft

Oh, hang on 140 in lbs, that's about 12 lb feet!!!

Yup. That sounds more like it. Whoever did it in lb-inches!!

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to tighten
the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single cylinder, side
valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's vintage. The block is
aluminium.
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones. They are complete with
dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded views and torque
figures, find something that looks similar in construction and use the
figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--

Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob
That sounds WAY too much.

10 stone on a foot bar?

Idiot.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Clot wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to
tighten the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and Stratton single
cylinder, side valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's
vintage. The block is aluminium.
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their
website for both current products and ancient ones. They are
complete with dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded
views and torque figures, find something that looks similar in
construction and use the figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob
That sounds WAY too much.

10 stone on a foot bar?


Thanks, I thought my memory was at fault. Seem to recall doing BMCs
to about 150 ft lbs. years ago which were not aluminium!


Im just looking in a haynes manual Cast iron cylinder head bolts 40lb
ft
Oh, hang on 140 in lbs, that's about 12 lb feet!!!

Yup. That sounds more like it. Whoever did it in lb-inches!!

Ah! So I had got it wrong, mixing the units, in lbs and ft lbs. Next time I
root through the old tools in the back of the garage, I shall have to see
what the torque wrench units were!

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 01:18:18 +0100, Mike wrote:
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones.

Hmm, shame they only list model numbers - we've got a B&S 10HP/362cc
4-stroke in our mower*, but there's no data plate on it to tell us what
model it is (and I'm not sure I fancy downloading every pdf file on the
B&S site just in case :-)

* leaks oil like a sieve and needs a new crank seal - if I had the manual
I'd strip it all down and give it a general once-over too, though.

cheers

Jules

On 17 Apr, 19:19, "Clot" wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Clot wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly cultivator
engine that I would need to know approximately what torque to
tighten the head bolts to. *It's a Briggs and Stratton single
cylinder, side valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp, possibly 1960's
vintage. *The block is aluminium.
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their
website for both current products and ancient ones. *They are
complete with dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded
views and torque figures, find something that looks similar in
construction and use the figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. *Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob
That sounds WAY too much.

10 stone on a foot bar?

Thanks, I thought my memory was at fault. Seem to recall doing BMCs
to about 150 ft lbs. years ago which were not aluminium!

Im just looking in a haynes manual Cast iron cylinder head bolts 40lb
ft
Oh, hang on 140 in lbs, that's about 12 lb feet!!!

Yup. That sounds more like it. Whoever did it in lb-inches!!

Ah! So I had got it wrong, mixing the units, in lbs and ft lbs. Next time I
root through the old tools in the back of the garage, I shall have to see
what the torque wrench units were!

Guessed you must have fallen for that one !!! A 12x overload would
have qualified for the suggestion of tightening to pull-out and then
install thread inserts !

Interestingly all the B & S tables are in in-lbs (rather than lb-
ins!!), so that must be a 'Merican thing.

Fortunately the only torque wrench I have is a 1/4"socket one
calibrated in Newtons and in-lbs.

Anyway the motor (ooops engine, been reading too many US websites)
still doesn't work but I suspect my messing around has also got muck
in the carb. Hey-ho!

Rob

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 18:38:39 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Oh, hang on 140 in lbs, that's about 12 lb feet!!!

Yup. That sounds more like it. Whoever did it in lb-inches!!

B&S are American...

--
Cheers
Dave.

Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 19:19, "Clot" wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Clot wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Rob G wrote:
On 17 Apr, 01:18, Mike wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 11:32:31 -0700 (PDT), robgraham

wrote:
I forgot when I posted some days back about my elderly
cultivator engine that I would need to know approximately what
torque to tighten the head bolts to. It's a Briggs and
Stratton single cylinder, side valve petrol engine, 3.5 hp,
possibly 1960's vintage. The block is aluminium.
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their
website for both current products and ancient ones. They are
complete with dismantling and rebuild instructions, exploded
views and torque figures, find something that looks similar in
construction and use the figures they quote!

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/

or you'll more likely find it here

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...d_more/doclist...

--
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the
end the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

Rob
That sounds WAY too much.

10 stone on a foot bar?

Thanks, I thought my memory was at fault. Seem to recall doing BMCs
to about 150 ft lbs. years ago which were not aluminium!

Im just looking in a haynes manual Cast iron cylinder head bolts
40lb ft
Oh, hang on 140 in lbs, that's about 12 lb feet!!!

Yup. That sounds more like it. Whoever did it in lb-inches!!

Ah! So I had got it wrong, mixing the units, in lbs and ft lbs. Next
time I root through the old tools in the back of the garage, I shall
have to see what the torque wrench units were!

Guessed you must have fallen for that one !!! A 12x overload would
have qualified for the suggestion of tightening to pull-out and then
install thread inserts !

Interestingly all the B & S tables are in in-lbs (rather than lb-
ins!!), so that must be a 'Merican thing.

Fortunately the only torque wrench I have is a 1/4"socket one
calibrated in Newtons and in-lbs.

Anyway the motor (ooops engine, been reading too many US websites)
still doesn't work but I suspect my messing around has also got muck
in the carb. Hey-ho!


Fortunately, despite having stripped and rebuilt many an engine, I've never
sheared a bolt or stripped a thread, (at least not a critical one that I can
recall)! Argh, it's got me thinking of the number of Maxi crankshaft
oilseals I've replaced in years gone by. Got to the stage where I could
replace one at the roadside in three quarters of an hour!

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 13:39:44 -0500, Jules wrote:

Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones.

Hmm, shame they only list model numbers - we've got a B&S 10HP/362cc
4-stroke in our mower*, but there's no data plate on it to tell us what
model it is

The guide on "where to find the engine/model" number doesn't help? My B&S
doesn't have a nice plate, the numbers are just stamped into one of the
castings.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 17 Apr, 19:39, Jules
wrote:
On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 01:18:18 +0100, Mike wrote:
Briggs and Stratton have a lot of workshop manuals on their website
for both current products and ancient ones.

Hmm, shame they only list model numbers - we've got a B&S 10HP/362cc
4-stroke in our mower*, but there's no data plate on it to tell us what
model it is (and I'm not sure I fancy downloading every pdf file on the
B&S site just in case :-)

* leaks oil like a sieve and needs a new crank seal - if I had the manual
I'd strip it all down and give it a general once-over too, though.

cheers

Jules

If you look on the various covers, you will find a 17 digit number
( in 3 blocks) stamped into the metal. My engine was made in April
1967 I learnt from these numbers which in my case are stamped on the
carburetor side of the fan housing. If you search the B & S website
diligently enough all the info is there - having said that I did find
a number for the manual for mine but couldn't get a download.

In the end I emailed B & S UK - and of course immediately found the
info for myself - and they came back impressively quickly with the
head torque I was after.

Another useful site is www.small-engines.com
http://www.small-engines.com

Rob

In article
,
Rob G wrote:
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

I'd check again. The bolts on my SD1 cylinder head are approx 3/8 and go
into aluminium threads. 70 ft.lb.

A rule of thumb is using the correct ring spanner rather than socket set
will give approx the right torque with a good pull. You couldn't achieve
140 lb.ft doing this.

--
*Suicidal twin kills sister by mistake.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Rob G wrote:
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

I'd check again. The bolts on my SD1 cylinder head are approx 3/8 and go
into aluminium threads. 70 ft.lb.

They're 7/16" which is not even remotely "approx 3/8".
--
Dave Baker

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Rob G wrote:
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

I'd check again. The bolts on my SD1 cylinder head are approx 3/8 and go
into aluminium threads. 70 ft.lb.

A rule of thumb is using the correct ring spanner rather than socket set
will give approx the right torque with a good pull. You couldn't achieve
140 lb.ft doing this.

How come nobody appears to be able to read the units properly? in-lbs !=
ft.lb, it's a factor of 12 different.

(you're at least the third person to make this mistake on this thread, and I
think the other two I've seen have indeed gone "D'oh" or some such
equivalent).

On 18 Apr, 10:46, "Clive George" wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in ...

In article
,
* Rob G wrote:
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. *Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

I'd check again. The bolts on my SD1 cylinder head are approx 3/8 and go
into aluminium threads. 70 ft.lb.

A rule of thumb is using the correct ring spanner rather than socket set
will give approx the right torque with a good pull. You couldn't achieve
140 lb.ft doing this.

How come nobody appears to be able to read the units properly? in-lbs !=
ft.lb, it's a factor of 12 different.

(you're at least the third person to make this mistake on this thread, and I
think the other two I've seen have indeed gone "D'oh" or some such
equivalent).

Thanks Clive - isn't that what caused one of the Mars landers to come
a cropper ?!!

Rob

In article ,
Dave Baker wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Rob G wrote:
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

I'd check again. The bolts on my SD1 cylinder head are approx 3/8 and
go into aluminium threads. 70 ft.lb.

They're 7/16" which is not even remotely "approx 3/8".

Err, 7/16 against 6/16ths on this sort of discussion? You're being picky
again...

But in any case makes it all the more obvious the 140 lb.ft is nonsense.

--
*It's not hard to meet expenses... they're everywhere.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Clive George wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article
,
Rob G wrote:
Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

I'd check again. The bolts on my SD1 cylinder head are approx 3/8 and
go into aluminium threads. 70 ft.lb.

A rule of thumb is using the correct ring spanner rather than socket
set will give approx the right torque with a good pull. You couldn't
achieve 140 lb.ft doing this.

How come nobody appears to be able to read the units properly? in-lbs !=
ft.lb, it's a factor of 12 different.

(you're at least the third person to make this mistake on this thread,
and I think the other two I've seen have indeed gone "D'oh" or some
such equivalent).

Came late to the thread.
However, in defence, the normal way to quote torque figures for this sort
of app in the UK was lb.ft.

--
*Caution: I drive like you do.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 03:38:33 -0700 (PDT), Rob G wrote:

Thanks Clive - isn't that what caused one of the Mars landers to come
a cropper ?!!

Mars Climate Orbiter, pounds force instead of newtons.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 17 Apr, 18:30, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Rob G wrote:

Thanks Mike - gave me the leads I needed. *Interestingly in the end
the torque of 140 in-lbs is standard for 3/8" steel bolts in
Aluminium.

10 stone on a foot bar?

in-lbs.

Ian

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rob G
saying something like:

Considering how many queries come up on this site which are a good
deal less complex than this one, and never get told to go and hunt for
yourself, I find it somewhat offensive that I got that answer. It
would seem the answer is if the question is easy, then answer it and
get your name in print, otherwise tell the OP to go and hunt himself.

Yes, but Clint is an arsehole.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rob G
saying something like:

Interestingly all the B & S tables are in in-lbs (rather than lb-
ins!!), so that must be a 'Merican thing.

It was common enough here too, for values under 15~20ft/lbs, depending
on the specifier's whims. Round about that kind of figure you'd be on a
smaller torque wrench because the larger ones wouldn't be accurate
enough.

In article ,
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rob G
saying something like:

Interestingly all the B & S tables are in in-lbs (rather than lb-
ins!!), so that must be a 'Merican thing.

It was common enough here too, for values under 15~20ft/lbs, depending
on the specifier's whims. Round about that kind of figure you'd be on a
smaller torque wrench because the larger ones wouldn't be accurate
enough.

I've never seem lb.in used for engine stuff though - although my
experience is only really with older UK cars. Lb.in is used in auto boxes
for some things - I've got a torque screwdriver specifically for this.

--
*Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Dave Plowman (News)"
saying something like:

I've never seem lb.in used for engine stuff though - although my
experience is only really with older UK cars. Lb.in is used in auto boxes
for some things - I've got a torque screwdriver specifically for this.

Hours of fun can be had when Haynes mis-appropriately use the wrong
units (fairly obvious) or even just give the wrong figures in the right
units (not so obvious, but explains why so many cam holders on older
Suzukis are stripped), especially on alloy castings.