I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500 watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again, slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if that could be the problem.

Is it a lost cause?

I originally got this from Freecycle knowing the genny side was faulty, in the hope I could make a
good one out of two - I have another with a duff engine. Turns out they are sufficiently different
that I can't do anything with them, so now I have two non-working genny's

Hi
sounds like a great excuse to learn about generators (you can't make it any
worse)
Basically a generator is a spinning coil (or coils)of wire which spin in a
magnetic field usually generated by another coil of wire.( I'm sure you knew
this).
But did you know the field coil is usually DC whilst the armature is
producing AC.
Most generator have a rectifier pack or voltage regulator connected to the
field and these often go faulty.
Another common fault (with long unused sets) is sticking brushes.
Yes they DO have brushes these bring the AC output off the armature and can
stick in their guides giving symptoms as you describe.
Find the brush gear and measure the voltage with the set running also check
the field voltage out of the regulator.
Oh of course check that the field windings are ok.

Just a few pointers to get you on your way

HTH good luck
CJ

On Jun 24, 10:14*pm, "cj" wrote:

Hi
sounds like a great excuse to learn about generators (you can't make it any
worse)
Basically a generator is a spinning coil (or coils)of wire which spin in a
magnetic field usually generated by another coil of wire.( I'm sure you knew
this).
But did you know the field coil is usually DC whilst the armature is
producing AC.
Most generator have a rectifier pack or voltage regulator connected to the
field and these often go faulty.
Another common fault (with long unused sets) is sticking brushes.
Yes they DO have brushes these bring the AC output off the armature and can
stick in their guides giving symptoms as you describe.
Find the brush gear and measure the voltage with the set running also check
the field voltage out of the regulator.
Oh of course check that the field windings are ok.

Just a few pointers to get you on your way

HTH good luck
CJ

How much work do you want to do on such a low value genset? You could
start by multimetering the physical generator while running to see
what voltages are where, and resistance testing the same while not
running.

I dont suppose its worthwhile to bodge the gen head onto the working
motor.


NT

On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 12:07:59 +0100, curls wrote:

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500
watt drill in, it might turn sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm
and 200rpm,

Motors require significantly more power to start than run, in the order of
2 to 3 times. Though as yours does try I'd expect it to spin up
eventually. If you give the motor a spin by hand does it run? Can the
genset power a simple load like a light bulb? If does 60W without problem
cobble together a few more to up the load.


--
Cheers
Dave.

On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 22:14:05 +0100, "cj" wrote:

Hi
sounds like a great excuse to learn about generators (you can't make it any
worse)
Basically a generator is a spinning coil (or coils)of wire which spin in a
magnetic field usually generated by another coil of wire.( I'm sure you knew
this).
But did you know the field coil is usually DC whilst the armature is
producing AC.
Most generator have a rectifier pack or voltage regulator connected to the
field and these often go faulty.
Another common fault (with long unused sets) is sticking brushes.
Yes they DO have brushes these bring the AC output off the armature and can
stick in their guides giving symptoms as you describe.

I don't have a manual or brochure for this, but I'm sure I remember, when they were on sale in Aldi,
that the blurb said "brushless self-exciting."

Find the brush gear and measure the voltage with the set running also check
the field voltage out of the regulator.
Oh of course check that the field windings are ok.

Just a few pointers to get you on your way

HTH good luck
CJ

On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:06:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

How much work do you want to do on such a low value genset? You could

It's mostly a matter of having a lot of spare time, combined with a fondness for repairing just
about anything if it's possible. Saving money is a bonus of course, even if it's only a few quid.

start by multimetering the physical generator while running to see
what voltages are where, and resistance testing the same while not
running.

This is where my knowledge is lacking. I'm happier with spanners in my hands than a multimeter.

I dont suppose its worthwhile to bodge the gen head onto the working
motor.

That was my original idea, but the crankshaft/armature shaft is a one piece thing, as are the
crankcase and one end of the generator case, so it's not feasible.

Still, I can always hack the armature off, stick a pulley on the shaft and use the engine to drive
something else. As the old saying goes, "It'll come in handy even if I never use it."

Thanks for all the replies.

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 10:12:54 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice" wrote:

On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 12:07:59 +0100, curls wrote:

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500
watt drill in, it might turn sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm
and 200rpm,

Motors require significantly more power to start than run, in the order of
2 to 3 times. Though as yours does try I'd expect it to spin up
eventually. If you give the motor a spin by hand does it run? Can the
genset power a simple load like a light bulb? If does 60W without problem
cobble together a few more to up the load.

I tried it with an 11 watt flourescent handlamp. Depending on how the genny is feeling, it varies
from nothing to full brightness.

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:10:12 +0100, curls wrote:

I tried it with an 11 watt flourescent handlamp. Depending on how the
genny is feeling, it varies from nothing to full brightness.

Flourescent is a "nasty" load again like a motor and 11W isn't a big load.
Don't you have a nice tungsten lamp you can plug in? I suspect it might be
the regulator that has packed in. Have a dig about on the web, they aren't
rocket science maybe just a chunky diode and a capacitor. Probably a
single sealed unit but possibly available as a generic spare.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Jun 24, 12:07*pm, curls wrote:
I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500 watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again, slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if that could be the problem.

Hi,

Try a google on 'generator field flashing'

There's some info about checking/flashing a brushless self exciting
generator here in a manual here.

http://www.powertechengines.com/NewageData/
MarkonPartsServiceInstallation-105-english.pdf

*If* it needs flashing it looks like you just need to connect a 12V
battery across the capacitor for a second.

If using a lead acid battery I'd also connect a fuse inline in case
something has shorted.

cheers,
Pete.

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:11:46 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice" wrote:

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:10:12 +0100, curls wrote:

I tried it with an 11 watt flourescent handlamp. Depending on how the
genny is feeling, it varies from nothing to full brightness.

Flourescent is a "nasty" load again like a motor and 11W isn't a big load.
Don't you have a nice tungsten lamp you can plug in? I suspect it might be
the regulator that has packed in. Have a dig about on the web, they aren't
rocket science maybe just a chunky diode and a capacitor. Probably a
single sealed unit but possibly available as a generic spare.

Same behaviour with a 40watt table lamp as with the fluorescent and the drill.

It turns out the armature could be separated from the crankshaft so I took the lot apart and took a
photo. http://tinyurl.com/5nelwt

There are three pairs of wires from the stator. One pair goes to the 6uF capacitor which you can see
in the top middle of the black plastic piece. Another pair goes to the 230v socket, with the live
going through a reset switch first. The remaining two wires go to a 12v socket for battery charging.
And that's it.

The CBB61 capacitor seems to be only available from China, though there's a similar one on ebay, but
that's half the price of a new genny.

On Jun 25, 12:07*pm, curls wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:06:19 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

How much work do you want to do on such a low value genset? You could

It's mostly a matter of having a lot of spare time, combined with a fondness for repairing just
about anything if it's possible. Saving money is a bonus of course, even if it's only a few quid.

let the fun begin

start by multimetering the physical generator while running to see
what voltages are where, and resistance testing the same while not
running.

This is where my knowledge is lacking. I'm happier with spanners in my hands than a multimeter.

all you need do is measure everything possible on voltage setting with
it going, and on resistance with it stopped. We can interpret from
there.


NT

Pete C wrote:
On Jun 24, 12:07�pm, curls wrote:

I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500 watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again, slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if that could be the problem.

Hi,

Try a google on 'generator field flashing'

There's some info about checking/flashing a brushless self exciting
generator here in a manual here.

http://www.powertechengines.com/NewageData/
MarkonPartsServiceInstallation-105-english.pdf

*If* it needs flashing it looks like you just need to connect a 12V
battery across the capacitor for a second.

If using a lead acid battery I'd also connect a fuse inline in case
something has shorted.

cheers,
Pete.

if it were that surely it would perform consistently badly. I suspect
a bad joint is more likely, which is generally an easy fix.


NT

On Jun 25, 6:06*pm, curls wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 15:11:46 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice" wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:10:12 +0100, curls wrote:

I tried it with an 11 watt flourescent handlamp. Depending on how the
genny is feeling, it varies from nothing to full brightness.

Flourescent is a "nasty" load again like a motor and 11W isn't a big load.
Don't you have a nice tungsten lamp you can plug in? I suspect it might be
the regulator that has packed in. Have a dig about on the web, they aren't
rocket science maybe just a chunky diode and a capacitor. Probably a
single sealed unit but possibly available as a generic spare.

Same behaviour with a 40watt table lamp as with the fluorescent and the drill.

It turns out the armature could be separated from the crankshaft so I took the lot apart and took a
photo.http://tinyurl.com/5nelwt

There are three pairs of wires from the stator. One pair goes to the 6uF capacitor which you can see
in the top middle of the black plastic piece. Another pair goes to the 230v socket, with the live
going through a reset switch first. The remaining two wires go to a 12v socket for battery charging.
And that's it.

The CBB61 capacitor seems to be only available from China, though there's a similar one on ebay, but
that's half the price of a new genny.

6uF 250vac caps are used in fluorescent lights, motors, etc, and cost
2 or 3 squid max. From any tron component supplier. But thats
immaterial until you've found out whats wrong.


NT

wrote:
Pete C wrote:
On Jun 24, 12:07�pm, curls wrote:

I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500 watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again, slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if that could be the problem.
Hi,

Try a google on 'generator field flashing'

There's some info about checking/flashing a brushless self exciting
generator here in a manual here.

http://www.powertechengines.com/NewageData/
MarkonPartsServiceInstallation-105-english.pdf

*If* it needs flashing it looks like you just need to connect a 12V
battery across the capacitor for a second.

If using a lead acid battery I'd also connect a fuse inline in case
something has shorted.

cheers,
Pete.

if it were that surely it would perform consistently badly. I suspect
a bad joint is more likely, which is generally an easy fix.


NT
self excited field coils are either all on or all off. once any voltage
is genraeted, they build up to a maximum.

However, surely field coils are excited with DC? perhaps there is a
rectifier block the far side of that capacitor that has gone partially phut.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
wrote:
Pete C wrote:
On Jun 24, 12:07�pm, curls wrote:

I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a
500 watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very
erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up
again, slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than
maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know
if that could be the problem.
Hi,

Try a google on 'generator field flashing'

There's some info about checking/flashing a brushless self exciting
generator here in a manual here.

http://www.powertechengines.com/NewageData/
MarkonPartsServiceInstallation-105-english.pdf

*If* it needs flashing it looks like you just need to connect a 12V
battery across the capacitor for a second.

If using a lead acid battery I'd also connect a fuse inline in case
something has shorted.

cheers,
Pete.

if it were that surely it would perform consistently badly. I suspect
a bad joint is more likely, which is generally an easy fix.


NT
self excited field coils are either all on or all off. once any voltage
is genraeted, they build up to a maximum.

However, surely field coils are excited with DC? perhaps there is a
rectifier block the far side of that capacitor that has gone partially
phut.


If you get desperate, the powercraft uk helpline number is 08707 323023
There are downloadable manuals on the omega wolf website but not one for
this generator.

Bob

Seems I'm showing my age again.
AC field eh! isn't time a b*&"h seems only yesterday watching a pal try and
prove that a series genset won't generate if you short the output.
Oh well time marches on ... as for brushless systems some Kango sets circa
1970's tried this by using an offset field biased with a capacitor and a
squirrel cage type armature IIR.
Sorry I can't be of further help as obviously my obsolete training and
experience is no longer the "Usual" but one thing that will not change is
that a generator makes electricity by moving a conductor across a magnetic
field,so good luck in your endeavours.

CJ

"cj" wrote in message
...
Hi
sounds like a great excuse to learn about generators (you can't make it
any worse)
Basically a generator is a spinning coil (or coils)of wire which spin in a
magnetic field usually generated by another coil of wire.( I'm sure you
knew this).
But did you know the field coil is usually DC whilst the armature is
producing AC.
Most generator have a rectifier pack or voltage regulator connected to the
field and these often go faulty.
Another common fault (with long unused sets) is sticking brushes.
Yes they DO have brushes these bring the AC output off the armature and
can stick in their guides giving symptoms as you describe.
Find the brush gear and measure the voltage with the set running also
check the field voltage out of the regulator.
Oh of course check that the field windings are ok.

Just a few pointers to get you on your way

ALL of todays modern 3000rpm generators, and definately the throw away style
2 strokes use a spinning DC field and the AC power comes off the stationary
armature- i.e. NO brushes.

The OP probably has a shorted field or more likely expired diodes (yes,
very cheap and nasty) on the field coil. You will need to strip the spinning
part out of the generator and replace the diodes, and check the resistance
and insulation of the coil.

It's far from unheard of in this league of machine for the windings to move
slightly or there be sufficient 'slop' in the bearings for the field coil to
contact the case or armature and wear it away / short it.

Tim..

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:29:50 +0100, Bob Minchin wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
wrote:
Pete C wrote:
On Jun 24, 12:07?pm, curls wrote:

I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a
500 watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very
erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up
again, slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than
maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know
if that could be the problem.
Hi,

Try a google on 'generator field flashing'

There's some info about checking/flashing a brushless self exciting
generator here in a manual here.

http://www.powertechengines.com/NewageData/
MarkonPartsServiceInstallation-105-english.pdf

*If* it needs flashing it looks like you just need to connect a 12V
battery across the capacitor for a second.

If using a lead acid battery I'd also connect a fuse inline in case
something has shorted.

cheers,
Pete.

if it were that surely it would perform consistently badly. I suspect
a bad joint is more likely, which is generally an easy fix.


NT
self excited field coils are either all on or all off. once any voltage
is genraeted, they build up to a maximum.

However, surely field coils are excited with DC? perhaps there is a
rectifier block the far side of that capacitor that has gone partially
phut.


If you get desperate, the powercraft uk helpline number is 08707 323023

The type of help you usually get from those places is, "Take it to your Powercraft dealer/repair
centre." I've not noticed many of those about though.

There are downloadable manuals on the omega wolf website but not one for
this generator.

I couldn't see where the manuals were on their website, assuming I was on the correct one. I have a
users manual of the type that says, "pull the string to start it," and not much else.

On Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:15:21 +0100, "Tim.." wrote:


"cj" wrote in message
...
Hi
sounds like a great excuse to learn about generators (you can't make it
any worse)
Basically a generator is a spinning coil (or coils)of wire which spin in a
magnetic field usually generated by another coil of wire.( I'm sure you
knew this).
But did you know the field coil is usually DC whilst the armature is
producing AC.
Most generator have a rectifier pack or voltage regulator connected to the
field and these often go faulty.
Another common fault (with long unused sets) is sticking brushes.
Yes they DO have brushes these bring the AC output off the armature and
can stick in their guides giving symptoms as you describe.
Find the brush gear and measure the voltage with the set running also
check the field voltage out of the regulator.
Oh of course check that the field windings are ok.

Just a few pointers to get you on your way

ALL of todays modern 3000rpm generators, and definately the throw away style
2 strokes use a spinning DC field and the AC power comes off the stationary
armature- i.e. NO brushes.

The OP probably has a shorted field or more likely expired diodes (yes,
very cheap and nasty) on the field coil. You will need to strip the spinning
part out of the generator and replace the diodes, and check the resistance
and insulation of the coil.

I can't see any diodes unless they are hidden inside the coils. The only thing in sight is a
resistor between the two coils.

It's far from unheard of in this league of machine for the windings to move
slightly or there be sufficient 'slop' in the bearings for the field coil to
contact the case or armature and wear it away / short it.

No signs of anything catching, rubbing, contacting or any other sort of *ing, except it won't *ing
work.

curls wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:29:50 +0100, Bob Minchin wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
wrote:
Pete C wrote:
On Jun 24, 12:07?pm, curls wrote:
I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a
500 watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very
erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up
again, slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than
maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know
if that could be the problem.
Hi,

Try a google on 'generator field flashing'

There's some info about checking/flashing a brushless self exciting
generator here in a manual here.

http://www.powertechengines.com/NewageData/
MarkonPartsServiceInstallation-105-english.pdf

*If* it needs flashing it looks like you just need to connect a 12V
battery across the capacitor for a second.

If using a lead acid battery I'd also connect a fuse inline in case
something has shorted.

cheers,
Pete.
if it were that surely it would perform consistently badly. I suspect
a bad joint is more likely, which is generally an easy fix.


NT
self excited field coils are either all on or all off. once any voltage
is genraeted, they build up to a maximum.

However, surely field coils are excited with DC? perhaps there is a
rectifier block the far side of that capacitor that has gone partially
phut.


If you get desperate, the powercraft uk helpline number is 08707 323023

The type of help you usually get from those places is, "Take it to your Powercraft dealer/repair
centre." I've not noticed many of those about though.

There are downloadable manuals on the omega wolf website but not one for
this generator.

I couldn't see where the manuals were on their website, assuming I was on the correct one. I have a
users manual of the type that says, "pull the string to start it," and not much else.
Manuals for some of their product are here
http://www.omegawolf.co.uk/powercraft/
Bob

Just in case anyone who replied is remotely interested, a pal took the generator to work and the
electrician, who apparently "knows about generators", couldn't get it running any better than it
was.

I decided not to bother keeping the engine, so in the interests of recycling, I'm thinking about
hiding it in full sight in the allotment, as an appeasement to this months crop of travellers, who
will no doubt discover it during one of their nocturnal excursions.

curls;1339385 Wrote:
I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.

The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500
watt drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very
erratic - guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again,
slowly.

There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than
maybe change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if
that could be the problem.

Is it a lost cause?

I originally got this from Freecycle knowing the genny side was
faulty, in the hope I could make a
good one out of two - I have another with a duff engine. Turns out
they are sufficiently different
that I can't do anything with them, so now I have two non-working
genny's


Hi Curls

I had the same problem, changed diodes etc and checked continuity on
the windings etc, after some more probing i changed the capacitor (8uF
440v) and hey presto the genarator is working again, I got the new
capacitor from Maplin Electronics http://www.maplin.co.uk/, Order no:
Motor run 440V 8uF RG64U at £3.43

The 2 diodes on the armature are hidden behind the resistior and are
1n5408 types that can be bought from Mode components for a very
reasonable price http://www.modecomponents.co.uk/

Hope this helps with your repair and gets you going if its not allready
fixed and helps someone in the future to repair there genarator also

Chris




--
Chris R

"Generator Guru Ltd."
wrote in message
roups.com...
replying to curls, Generator Guru Ltd. wrote:
not wrote:

I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.
The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500
watt
drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very
erratic -
guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again,
slowly.
There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than
maybe
change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if
that
could be the problem. Is it a lost cause?
I originally got this from Freecycle knowing the genny side was faulty,
in
the
hope I could make a
good one out of two - I have another with a duff engine. Turns out they
are
sufficiently different
that I can't do anything with them, so now I have two non-working genny's

There is a governor so that it maintains a constant speed regardless of
load.
(Connected to the carburretor, some sort of centrifugal device) I would
check that the linkage is free to move first off.

replying to curls, Generator Guru Ltd. wrote:
not wrote:

I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.
The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500 watt
drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very erratic -
guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again,
slowly.
There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than maybe
change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if that
could be the problem.
Is it a lost cause?
I originally got this from Freecycle knowing the genny side was faulty, in
the
hope I could make a
good one out of two - I have another with a duff engine. Turns out they
are
sufficiently different
that I can't do anything with them, so now I have two non-working genny's




It sounds like the capacitor is faulty. Replacing the capacitor should fix
your problem. If you need spares for Powercraft Generators we have them in
stock. We are also happy to advise you on fault finding and repairing if
you need it. To purchase parts please see our website.
http://generatorguru.com/categories/...el/Powercraft/

--

On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 1:44:03 PM UTC, Generator Guru Ltd. wrote:
replying to curls, Generator Guru Ltd. wrote:
not wrote:

I'm expecting cries of "bin it" but it's worth a try.
The output from this generator is low to non-existent. If I plug a 500 watt
drill in, it might turn
sometimes, but only between probably 10rpm and 200rpm, it's very erratic -
guessing the speeds of
course - then it will stop altogether, and then maybe start up again,
slowly.
There doesn't seem to be much that can be done with these other than maybe
change the capacitor, but
my electrical knowledge is too lacking in such matters to even know if that
could be the problem.
Is it a lost cause?
I originally got this from Freecycle knowing the genny side was faulty, in
the
hope I could make a
good one out of two - I have another with a duff engine. Turns out they
are
sufficiently different
that I can't do anything with them, so now I have two non-working genny's




It sounds like the capacitor is faulty. Replacing the capacitor should fix
your problem. If you need spares for Powercraft Generators we have them in
stock. We are also happy to advise you on fault finding and repairing if
you need it. To purchase parts please see our website.
http://generatorguru.com/categories/...el/Powercraft/

--

spam
spam
spam
spam

wonderful spam
wonderful spam

On Tue, 10 Mar 2015 13:44:01 +0000, Generator Guru Ltd.
wrote:


It sounds like the capacitor is faulty. Replacing the capacitor should fix
your problem. If you need spares for Powercraft Generators we have them in
stock.

Subject: Powercraft/Wolf 720 watt generator fault
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 12:07:59 +0100
Message-ID:

One has to admire your stellar customer service and speed of response,
it only took you 7 years to reply. Goodness knows how long it would
take to get the spares off the shelf, 10 years at least at that rate.

replying to Tim.., Mr Ian Clement wrote:
Hi there hope you can help.I have replaced almost everything on this generator
except the capacitor and the diodes I just cant find the diodes so I can test
them .Can you tell me where they are located? I am at present driving the
generator with a high speed drill and can only get approx. 5 volts output
,would faulty diodes or capacitor cause this Cheers ian C

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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...lt-489242-.htm

replying to Tim.., Mr Ian Clement wrote:
Hi there TimI must say you seem toknow what you are talking about.I have
replaced and tested everything on this 720 generator and I can still only get
7 volts A.C Output.I have ordered new diodes but cant find any markings on the
old diodes to confirm which way they face ,are they both facing the same way?
ie bands to the right or one left and one right?.I know I should have checked
them when I removed them but I was in a bit of a bad mood. Hope you can help
Cheers Ian C

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for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...lt-489242-.htm