Hi,

I would like to replace our loft hatch. I know you can get some ready
assembled plastic ones but I'm not sure about locking them. They seem
to have a plastic latch that you turn through 90 degrees to lock the
door closed. The problem is: how do you reach it to turn it when it's
eight foot high?

I wondered about making my own from wood as the existing one is rather
tatty. At the moment it is a push-up type and I'd like to replace it
with one on hinges to lower down, with a retractable ladder.

Do I use mdf or do I get "real wood" in tongue and groove form and
join that to make a hatch?

I suppose the only problem with sliding the ladder up after use is
that it will squash the insulation.

Is there anything else I need to think about before I start?

TIA.

"Sam" wrote:
Hi,

I would like to replace our loft hatch. I know you can get some ready
assembled plastic ones but I'm not sure about locking them. They seem
to have a plastic latch that you turn through 90 degrees to lock the
door closed. The problem is: how do you reach it to turn it when it's
eight foot high?

I wondered about making my own from wood as the existing one is rather
tatty. At the moment it is a push-up type and I'd like to replace it
with one on hinges to lower down, with a retractable ladder.

Do I use mdf or do I get "real wood" in tongue and groove form and
join that to make a hatch?

I suppose the only problem with sliding the ladder up after use is
that it will squash the insulation.

Is there anything else I need to think about before I start?

TIA.

I recently converted my loft hatch from a push up to a pull down. The catch
is operated by a hook on the end of a piece of dowel, as is the pull down
loft ladder. Due to lack of space in the loft I installed a concertina
ladder which is held up by springs above the hatch opening when the ladder
is in the up position. You can prevent a slide up ladder from squashing the
insulation by fixing a wooden rail to the joists. The original hatch was MDF
which I cut down to fit the smaller opening. In my experience a push up
hatch gives a much better draught seal than can be achieved with a pull down
hatch. If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than MDF
or a sheet of plywood.

In article , Sam
scribeth thus
Hi,

I would like to replace our loft hatch. I know you can get some ready
assembled plastic ones but I'm not sure about locking them. They seem
to have a plastic latch that you turn through 90 degrees to lock the
door closed. The problem is: how do you reach it to turn it when it's
eight foot high?

I wondered about making my own from wood as the existing one is rather
tatty. At the moment it is a push-up type and I'd like to replace it
with one on hinges to lower down, with a retractable ladder.

Do I use mdf or do I get "real wood" in tongue and groove form and
join that to make a hatch?

I suppose the only problem with sliding the ladder up after use is
that it will squash the insulation.

Is there anything else I need to think about before I start?

TIA.

We've had one of those plastic ones made by the same people who make
Osma drains and stuff.

Pile of cack.. distorts and leaves gaps that the wind whistles through.

Make it from wood with some foam seal round the edges and some sort of
catch to hold it tight in place against the sealing foam..

Shouldn't worry about the ladder squashing a bit of loft insulation!..
--
Tony Sayer

DIY wrote:
"Sam" wrote:
Hi,

I would like to replace our loft hatch. I know you can get some ready
assembled plastic ones but I'm not sure about locking them. They seem
to have a plastic latch that you turn through 90 degrees to lock the
door closed. The problem is: how do you reach it to turn it when it's
eight foot high?

I wondered about making my own from wood as the existing one is rather
tatty. At the moment it is a push-up type and I'd like to replace it
with one on hinges to lower down, with a retractable ladder.

Do I use mdf or do I get "real wood" in tongue and groove form and
join that to make a hatch?

I suppose the only problem with sliding the ladder up after use is
that it will squash the insulation.

Is there anything else I need to think about before I start?

TIA.

I recently converted my loft hatch from a push up to a pull down. The catch
is operated by a hook on the end of a piece of dowel, as is the pull down
loft ladder. Due to lack of space in the loft I installed a concertina
ladder which is held up by springs above the hatch opening when the ladder
is in the up position. You can prevent a slide up ladder from squashing the
insulation by fixing a wooden rail to the joists. The original hatch was MDF
which I cut down to fit the smaller opening. In my experience a push up
hatch gives a much better draught seal than can be achieved with a pull down
hatch. If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than MDF
or a sheet of plywood.


IME blockboard is the best material. Takes screws well on the edge and
is a good deal lighter than mdf.
The key thing to remember is that you make the frame with the door as a
freestanding item and then fit it to the joists. Trying to fit a door to
an existing frame can be frustrating to say the least.

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:24:30 GMT, Sam wrote:


I would like to replace our loft hatch. I know you can get some ready
assembled plastic ones ...

You can also get ready assembled timber ones, frame, hatch and ladder that
sits over the hatch when up.

CostCo sell 'em for about £80 + VAT. I think that one is "Eco", plenty of
others listed at

http://www.loftsandladders.com/acata...t_Ladders_in_T
imber_6.html

Handy Google find

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Sam wrote:
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:44:04 -0000, "DIY"
wrote:

If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than MDF
or a sheet of plywood.

I appreciate your point about weight; I don't want it hitting anyone
on the head.

I like plywood but it's not very pretty is it?

Someone mentioned blockboard but where can I get that? Do I have to go
to a timber merchant for it?

Why don't you use the Loft Panels made specifically for the job?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/116420?...QPN Xrg%3D%3D


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 26 Nov, 22:01, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Sam wrote:
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:44:04 -0000, "DIY"
wrote:

If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than MDF
or a sheet of plywood.

I appreciate your point about weight; I don't want it hitting anyone
on the head.

I like plywood but it's not very pretty is it?

Someone mentioned blockboard but where can I get that? Do I have to go
to a timber merchant for it?

Why don't you use the Loft Panels made specifically for the job? http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/116420?...udElUVh4%2BI3K...

For a loft hatch?

Sam wrote:
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:44:04 -0000, "DIY"
wrote:

If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than MDF
or a sheet of plywood.

I appreciate your point about weight; I don't want it hitting anyone
on the head.

I like plywood but it's not very pretty is it?

Someone mentioned blockboard but where can I get that? Do I have to go
to a timber merchant for it?

Thanks.

Yes. They usually sell it as 1/4 sheet if that's all you need. The edges
aren't very pretty either (worse than ply usually) but the combination
of light weight and taking screws well makes it the best option IMO.

Mathew Newton wrote:
On 26 Nov, 22:01, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Sam wrote:
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:44:04 -0000, "DIY"
wrote:
If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than MDF
or a sheet of plywood.
I appreciate your point about weight; I don't want it hitting anyone
on the head.
I like plywood but it's not very pretty is it?
Someone mentioned blockboard but where can I get that? Do I have to go
to a timber merchant for it?
Why don't you use the Loft Panels made specifically for the job? http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/116420?...udElUVh4%2BI3K...

For a loft hatch?

Chipboard's the last thing you need. Maybe our resident handyman hasn't
read the whole thread. Hatch, not floor :-)

Sam wrote in
:

On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:44:04 -0000, "DIY"
wrote:

If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than
MDF
or a sheet of plywood.

I appreciate your point about weight; I don't want it hitting
anyone on the head.

I like plywood but it's not very pretty is it?

If you like both plywood and the 'look' of tongue and groove, then
the way to achieve this is to cover the plywood in the very thin (is
it 6mm or 8mm?) interior pine cladding that the DIY sheds sell. You
know the kind of stuff - popular in bathrooms a few years ago, or for
panelling below a dado rail.

Hope this helps

--
Richard Perkin
To email me, change the AT in the address below
richard.perkinATmyrealbox.com

It's is not, it isn't ain't, and it's it's, not its, if you mean it
is. If you don't, it's its. Then too, it's hers. It isn't her's.
It isn't our's either. It's ours, and likewise yours and theirs.
-- Oxford University Press, Edpress News

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 22:01:16 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Why don't you use the Loft Panels made specifically for the job?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/116420?...QPN Xrg%3D%3D


I'm wanting to make a loft hatch but this link seems to be for board
for loft flooring.

On 25 Nov, 15:24, Sam wrote:
Hi,

I would like to replace our loft hatch. I know you can get some ready
assembled plastic ones but I'm not sure about locking them. They seem
to have a plastic latch that you turn through 90 degrees to lock the
door closed. The problem is: how do you reach it to turn it when it's
eight foot high?

I wondered about making my own from wood as the existing one is rather
tatty. At the moment it is a push-up type and I'd like to replace it
with one on hinges to lower down, with a retractable ladder.

Do I use mdf or do I get "real wood" in tongue and groove form and
join that to make a hatch?

I suppose the only problem with sliding the ladder up after use is
that it will squash the insulation.

Is there anything else I need to think about before I start?

TIA.

Not to go against the thread, I recently fitted:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79577/...oft-Door-White

Easy to fit as I had to resize an existing hatch and get the ceiling
skimmed afterwards. I would agree its not the most robust
construction, but its only a loft hatch. The door comes of easily for
extra access. Very well draught insulated and a piece of polystyrene
on the back, locks securely with the end of the pole used for the
ladder.

Hope that helps

Stuart Noble wrote:
Mathew Newton wrote:
On 26 Nov, 22:01, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Sam wrote:
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:44:04 -0000, "DIY"
wrote:
If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than
MDF or a sheet of plywood.
I appreciate your point about weight; I don't want it hitting
anyone on the head.
I like plywood but it's not very pretty is it?
Someone mentioned blockboard but where can I get that? Do I have
to go to a timber merchant for it?
Why don't you use the Loft Panels made specifically for the job?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/116420?...udElUVh4%2BI3K...

For a loft hatch?

Chipboard's the last thing you need. Maybe our resident handyman
hasn't read the whole thread. Hatch, not floor :-)

I'll get me coat...................



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 27 Nov 2007 12:39:30 GMT, Richard Perkin
wrote:

If you like both plywood and the 'look' of tongue and groove,

I was not particularly after a T&G look, it was just I wasn't sure how
else to get a bit of wood that big; I thought I would have to join
some T&G together to make something that size.

What's the best way to insulate a new hatch? The ready built plastic
hatches ones come with a (small) sheet of polystyrene on. Is that the
best way to go? How thick should the polystyrene be; it doesn't seem
very thick on these pre built hatches and I wonder if it makes any
real difference?

Thanks.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Mathew Newton wrote:
On 26 Nov, 22:01, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Sam wrote:
On Sun, 25 Nov 2007 15:44:04 -0000, "DIY"
wrote:
If you use tongue and grove be aware that it may be heavier than
MDF or a sheet of plywood.
I appreciate your point about weight; I don't want it hitting
anyone on the head.
I like plywood but it's not very pretty is it?
Someone mentioned blockboard but where can I get that? Do I have
to go to a timber merchant for it?
Why don't you use the Loft Panels made specifically for the job?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/116420?...udElUVh4%2BI3K...
For a loft hatch?
Chipboard's the last thing you need. Maybe our resident handyman
hasn't read the whole thread. Hatch, not floor :-)

I'll get me coat...................




I don't bother taking mine off any more :-)

I did mine recently using a sheet of hardboard glued to a sheet of
plasterboard glued to a bit of kinspan style foam insulation. The
hardboard gives a reasonably good surface to paint, the plasterboard
adds some weight so the hatch stays down without a catch and the
insulation, well, it provides insulation

Sam wrote:
On 27 Nov 2007 12:39:30 GMT, Richard Perkin
wrote:

If you like both plywood and the 'look' of tongue and groove,

I was not particularly after a T&G look, it was just I wasn't sure how
else to get a bit of wood that big; I thought I would have to join
some T&G together to make something that size.

What's the best way to insulate a new hatch? The ready built plastic
hatches ones come with a (small) sheet of polystyrene on. Is that the
best way to go? How thick should the polystyrene be; it doesn't seem
very thick on these pre built hatches and I wonder if it makes any
real difference?

Thanks.