Hi

got a hinged loft hatch with a push to lock push to unlock retention
mechanism

suggested required as best way to draft proof between hatch and frame

TIA
--
Mark

The message
from Mark contains these words:

suggested required as best way to draft proof between hatch and frame

Squashy gaskets.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Mark wrote:
Hi

got a hinged loft hatch with a push to lock push to unlock retention
mechanism

suggested required as best way to draft proof between hatch and frame

TIA

I use foam adhesive strip which can be bought in a roll from any of the
sheds.

Don.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mark wrote:

Hi

got a hinged loft hatch with a push to lock push to unlock retention
mechanism

suggested required as best way to draft proof between hatch and frame

TIA

If you use a rebated frame, the hatch will close against a shoulder all the
way round - and you can use conventional self-adhesive foam strip on it.

As a retro-fit job, you can make a pseudo rebate by fitting some strips of
wood into the frame just above the hatch.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mark wrote:

got a hinged loft hatch with a push to lock push to unlock retention
mechanism

suggested required as best way to draft proof between hatch and frame

Forgive my not correcting your quaint colonialisms but if I got the
gist of your message you have a loft hatch that is draughty.

If you use a rebated frame, the hatch will close against a shoulder all the
way round - and you can use conventional self-adhesive foam strip on it.

As a retro-fit job, you can make a pseudo rebate by fitting some strips of
wood into the frame just above the hatch.

It is always a good idea to check on exactly what the OP wants/ has.

If it is one of those plackie thingies it is a piece of crap modernism
that wants cobbing.

If it can be repaired, that may suffice. I can't remember what might be
done with them. What I would head for is a replacement. For which check
on previous posts here.

To put wadding on an hinged door might require that the door be raised
on the hinge. It's a difficult call. Needless to say there is very
little to go on. The OP hardly speaks English.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mark wrote:

got a hinged loft hatch with a push to lock push to unlock retention
mechanism

suggested required as best way to draft proof between hatch and
frame

Forgive my not correcting your quaint colonialisms but if I got the
gist of your message you have a loft hatch that is draughty.

If you use a rebated frame, the hatch will close against a shoulder
all the way round - and you can use conventional self-adhesive foam
strip on it.

As a retro-fit job, you can make a pseudo rebate by fitting some
strips of wood into the frame just above the hatch.

It is always a good idea to check on exactly what the OP wants/ has.

If it is one of those plackie thingies it is a piece of crap modernism
that wants cobbing.

If it can be repaired, that may suffice. I can't remember what might
be done with them. What I would head for is a replacement. For which
check on previous posts here.

To put wadding on an hinged door might require that the door be raised
on the hinge. It's a difficult call. Needless to say there is very
little to go on. The OP hardly speaks English.

I like the cut of your jib!

Mark wrote:
Hi

got a hinged loft hatch with a push to lock push to unlock retention
mechanism

suggested required as best way to draft proof between hatch and frame

TIA

If it's placcy, sling it to feck.
If it's wood, use any draughtproofing you have at hand, or buy some of the
sticky-backed caper from any shed, don't forget to put a lump of insulation
on the back of the hatch, either glued or stapled, the choice is yours.