i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.

My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.

I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.

Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.

Robert

RobertL wrote:
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.

My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.

I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.

Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.

Robert

Skim the wall flat and GLUE the mirror on. Ask your glazing company for
suitable glue.

If the wall is flat +-3mm, don't bother to skim. The glue is plenty
strong enough to fill that sort of gap. So is the glass.

The recommended glues do not affect the silvering in any way.

Put dummy screws in the holes

On Jul 5, 10:42 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
RobertL wrote:
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.

My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.

I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.

Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.

Robert

Skim the wall flat and GLUE the mirror on. Ask your glazing company for
suitable glue.

If the wall is flat +-3mm, don't bother to skim. The glue is plenty
strong enough to fill that sort of gap. So is the glass.

The recommended glues do not affect the silvering in any way.

Put dummy screws in the holes-

Wow, that's radically different from what I had in mind. thank you.

Robert

RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 10:42 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
RobertL wrote:
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).
The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.
My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.
I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.
Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
Robert
Skim the wall flat and GLUE the mirror on. Ask your glazing company for
suitable glue.

If the wall is flat +-3mm, don't bother to skim. The glue is plenty
strong enough to fill that sort of gap. So is the glass.

The recommended glues do not affect the silvering in any way.

Put dummy screws in the holes-

Wow, that's radically different from what I had in mind. thank you.

Robert



I wouldn't rely on glue. You'd have to support it while the glue goes
off so you might as well fix it with proper mirror screws. These
normally come with a chrome cap and a plastic liner to stop the screw
thread touching the glass. Tighten gradually obvioiusly

"RobertL" wrote in message
ups.com...

i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).



Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.

On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:
"RobertL" wrote in message

ups.com...



i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.


Why? To make the room look bigger and so couples can see themselves.
Steaming up could be an issue.

Robert

On Jul 5, 12:44 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 10:42 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
RobertL wrote:
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).
The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.
My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.
I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.
Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
Robert
Skim the wall flat and GLUE the mirror on. Ask your glazing company for
suitable glue.

If the wall is flat +-3mm, don't bother to skim. The glue is plenty
strong enough to fill that sort of gap. So is the glass.

The recommended glues do not affect the silvering in any way.

Put dummy screws in the holes-

Wow, that's radically different from what I had in mind. thank you.

Robert

I wouldn't rely on glue. You'd have to support it while the glue goes
off so you might as well fix it with proper mirror screws. These
normally come with a chrome cap and a plastic liner to stop the screw
thread touching the glass. Tighten gradually obvioiusly-

the mirror comes with the special type of screws that you describe.

R

Stuart Noble wrote:
RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 10:42 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
RobertL wrote:
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).
The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.
My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.
I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.
Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
Robert
Skim the wall flat and GLUE the mirror on. Ask your glazing company for
suitable glue.

If the wall is flat +-3mm, don't bother to skim. The glue is plenty
strong enough to fill that sort of gap. So is the glass.

The recommended glues do not affect the silvering in any way.

Put dummy screws in the holes-

Wow, that's radically different from what I had in mind. thank you.

Robert



I wouldn't rely on glue. You'd have to support it while the glue goes
off so you might as well fix it with proper mirror screws. These
normally come with a chrome cap and a plastic liner to stop the screw
thread touching the glass. Tighten gradually obvioiusly

I would definitely rely on glue. Its FAR safer than 4 screws into
plasterboard.

Supporting it is easy. You screw a batten to the wall where the studs
are, using a level to get it horizontal, and gunk away, and plop the
mirror up

A bit of duck tape will stop it falling forward for an hour or two while
the glue grabs.

I had to remove one after *ten minutes* when my wife said 'no, its too
low' and I nearly broke it getting it off.

Leave it 24 hours, remove batten, make good the plaster and there you are.

Immovable.

George wrote:
"RobertL" wrote in message
ups.com...
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).



Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.


To do their make up with=, gorgeous!

We have about 800mmx1.2m on ours..also helps spread the light around
from the sunset. Nice.

On Jul 5, 1:43 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 10:42 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
RobertL wrote:
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).
The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.
My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.
I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.
Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
Robert
Skim the wall flat and GLUE the mirror on. Ask your glazing company for
suitable glue.

If the wall is flat +-3mm, don't bother to skim. The glue is plenty
strong enough to fill that sort of gap. So is the glass.

The recommended glues do not affect the silvering in any way.

Put dummy screws in the holes-

Wow, that's radically different from what I had in mind. thank you.

Robert

I wouldn't rely on glue. You'd have to support it while the glue goes
off so you might as well fix it with proper mirror screws. These
normally come with a chrome cap and a plastic liner to stop the screw
thread touching the glass. Tighten gradually obvioiusly

I would definitely rely on glue. Its FAR safer than 4 screws into
plasterboard.

I don't have plasterboard. I have plastered blockwork, so screws
would be very strong. Also I have 8 screw opints. Nevertheless I
take your point however.


Is there an issue with damp getting behind it?

Robert

On 05/07/2007 13:43 The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I would definitely rely on glue.

I glued one on in similar circumstances and the adhesive I got from the
glaziers grabbed the mirror almost immediately. There was no need for
any support within a very short time.

--
Frank
(Beware of spam trap - remove the negative)

RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:43 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 10:42 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
RobertL wrote:
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).
The wall is not perfectly even. Obvioulsy I want the mirror to be
flat but i don't want it to have large hollows behind so that it could
bend/break if someone leaned on it. It has a safety backing so that
it does not fall apart if it breaks but it is not toughened.
My idea was to first mark, drill and plug the eight screw holes. Then
I would put blobs of sealant on the wall dotted over the surface at,
say, 150mm centres. Then I'd mount the mirror screwing to the wall
but not too tightly. This would squash up the sealant blobs which
are sandwiched between the wall and the mirror.. Once the sealant
has hardened the mirror would be flat and well supported.
I am worried the sealant might damage the reflective coating on the
back of the mirror so I plan to cover each 'blob' with a bit of vapour
barrier plastic to isolate it from the mirror. This would also make
removal easier.
Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
Robert
Skim the wall flat and GLUE the mirror on. Ask your glazing company for
suitable glue.
If the wall is flat +-3mm, don't bother to skim. The glue is plenty
strong enough to fill that sort of gap. So is the glass.
The recommended glues do not affect the silvering in any way.
Put dummy screws in the holes-
Wow, that's radically different from what I had in mind. thank you.
Robert
I wouldn't rely on glue. You'd have to support it while the glue goes
off so you might as well fix it with proper mirror screws. These
normally come with a chrome cap and a plastic liner to stop the screw
thread touching the glass. Tighten gradually obvioiusly
I would definitely rely on glue. Its FAR safer than 4 screws into
plasterboard.

I don't have plasterboard. I have plastered blockwork, so screws
would be very strong. Also I have 8 screw opints. Nevertheless I
take your point however.



Oh well..screws are fine then..depends whether you want a fixture or a
fitting :-)

Is there an issue with damp getting behind it?

Not if its full of glue :-)

I tend to tile around anyway, in bathrooms. Mines sealed into the tiles
with grout and decorators caulk.

The glue is a sort of acrylic - it sets pretty waterproof. Its LOOKS a
lot like waterproof tile cement, or no more nails..

Robert

F wrote:
On 05/07/2007 13:43 The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I would definitely rely on glue.

I glued one on in similar circumstances and the adhesive I got from the
glaziers grabbed the mirror almost immediately. There was no need for
any support within a very short time.


I reckon ten to 20 minutes..BUT if its big and heavy thats long enough
to slide crooked..hence shove a batten under.

It sets off hard overnight, on plaster anyway. Guess it takes a week or
two to go full strength.

On Jul 5, 3:47 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
F wrote:
On 05/07/2007 13:43 The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I would definitely rely on glue.

I glued one on in similar circumstances and the adhesive I got from the
glaziers grabbed the mirror almost immediately. There was no need for
any support within a very short time.

I reckon ten to 20 minutes..BUT if its big and heavy thats long enough
to slide crooked..hence shove a batten under.

It sets off hard overnight, on plaster anyway. Guess it takes a week or
two to go full strength.

the mirror is supposed to sit on top of the capping that covers the
turned up edge of the lino. I don't think this will take the weight
of the glass, even for a short time, so I might fix a batten in place
temporarily to take the weight while I fix it to the wall. caluking
around the edge to prevent damp getting behind is a good idea. it
wil

thank you everyone for your helpful responses.

Robert

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
F wrote:
On 05/07/2007 13:43 The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I would definitely rely on glue.

I glued one on in similar circumstances and the adhesive I got from
the glaziers grabbed the mirror almost immediately. There was no need
for any support within a very short time.


I reckon ten to 20 minutes..BUT if its big and heavy thats long enough
to slide crooked..hence shove a batten under.

It sets off hard overnight, on plaster anyway. Guess it takes a week or
two to go full strength.

I put up a big mirror recently - nearly as big as the OP's - and used
mirror adhesive from Screwfix. The instructions advised IIRC something
like running 7-10mm diameter beads of adhesive vertically down the
mirror at 10cm intervals; doing that used up 3 tubes of the stuff. I
had previously screwed a temporary batten to the wall for it to sit on.

Instructions said to ensure the mirror wasn't less than 5mm (?) from the
wall, to ensure there's enough adhesive in the gap to do the job, and/or
to ensure enough airlow for it to cure. So I stuck a number of bits of
5mm packing all over the wall where the mirror would hang, so I could
press the mirror against the wall as hard as I liked without the glue
being extruded too much. I screwed three more temporary wooden
turn-pegs into the wall above the mirror to stop it falling forward.

It also said to leave it something like 48-96 hrs to set until the
support was removed.

All worked fine.

David

RobertL wrote:

On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:

"RobertL" wrote in message

roups.com...




i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.



Why? To make the room look bigger and so couples can see themselves.
Steaming up could be an issue.

Same conditions as a bedroom ceiling mirror then ;-)

Dave

Dave wrote:
RobertL wrote:

On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:

"RobertL" wrote in message

ups.com...




i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to
the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.



Why? To make the room look bigger and so couples can see themselves.
Steaming up could be an issue.

Same conditions as a bedroom ceiling mirror then ;-)

Part PorNo will require extractor fans and passive ventilation in
bedrooms to cope with that in due course..it won;t be the mirrors tho:
just the lenses on the govt. security cameras.

Dave

RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:
"RobertL" wrote in message

ups.com...

i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).
Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.

Why? To make the room look bigger

Yup - that's the gospel according to St. Beeny...

and so couples can see themselves.

Not sure about that one but I'm now not convinced about our mirror since
we put it in: it extends the width of the room, over the toilet cistern,
which means that when you stand there taking a leak you have a full view
of yourself from head to knee. Just a bit weird when you're not used to
it! And TBH I could do without the view when I exit the shower.

David

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 22:24:00 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Dave wrote:
RobertL wrote:

On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:

"RobertL" wrote in message

ups.com...




i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to
the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.



Why? To make the room look bigger and so couples can see themselves.
Steaming up could be an issue.

Same conditions as a bedroom ceiling mirror then ;-)

Part PorNo will require extractor fans and passive ventilation in
bedrooms to cope with that in due course..it won;t be the mirrors tho:
just the lenses on the govt. security cameras.

Of course the extractor fans will have to conform to 'NICEIC wiring
specifications', passive ventilation will have to have LA approval,
and the cameras will have to be approved by the (B)SIA.

All overseen by Brussels of course...
(we no longer have a Government, apart from some body that takes money
from us).

--
Frank Erskine

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Dave wrote:

RobertL wrote:

On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:

"RobertL" wrote in message

ups.com...




i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).


Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more
to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.




Why? To make the room look bigger and so couples can see themselves.
Steaming up could be an issue.


Same conditions as a bedroom ceiling mirror then ;-)

Part PorNo will require extractor fans and passive ventilation in
bedrooms to cope with that in due course..it won;t be the mirrors tho:
just the lenses on the govt. security cameras.

Nice one NP :-)

Dave

On Jul 5, 6:53 pm, Lobster wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
F wrote:
On 05/07/2007 13:43 The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I would definitely rely on glue.

I glued one on in similar circumstances and the adhesive I got from
the glaziers grabbed the mirror almost immediately. There was no need
for any support within a very short time.

I reckon ten to 20 minutes..BUT if its big and heavy thats long enough
to slide crooked..hence shove a batten under.

It sets off hard overnight, on plaster anyway. Guess it takes a week or
two to go full strength.

I put up a big mirror recently - nearly as big as the OP's - and used
mirror adhesive from Screwfix. The instructions advised IIRC something
like running 7-10mm diameter beads of adhesive vertically down the
mirror at 10cm intervals; doing that used up 3 tubes of the stuff. I
had previously screwed a temporary batten to the wall for it to sit on.

Instructions said to ensure the mirror wasn't less than 5mm (?) from the
wall, to ensure there's enough adhesive in the gap to do the job, and/or
to ensure enough airlow for it to cure. So I stuck a number of bits of
5mm packing all over the wall where the mirror would hang, so I could
press the mirror against the wall as hard as I liked without the glue
being extruded too much. I screwed three more temporary wooden
turn-pegs into the wall above the mirror to stop it falling forward.

It also said to leave it something like 48-96 hrs to set until the
support was removed.

All worked fine.


thanks for that. I bought only one tube of that from Screwix this
morning (damn). I hope that as I am using screws (8 in fact) as well
as glue, that i will be able to use less glue. I'll probably use
blobs of glue at 100mm centres rather than long vertical lines.

The mirror arrived this morning; it weighs 25kg.!

In order to get the small gap behind it I could pack it out with tap
washers embedded in the blobs of glue.. I could put one behind each
screw fixing as well. A 3mm washer plus 6mm of mirror will make the
surface level with the existing 10mm thick tiles nearby.

Robert

On Jul 5, 9:27 pm, Dave wrote:
RobertL wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:

"RobertL" wrote in message

roups.com...

i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.

Why? To make the room look bigger and so couples can see themselves.
Steaming up could be an issue.

Same conditions as a bedroom ceiling mirror then ;-)

Mirrors over the bed are overrated in my view. If the ceiling is 2
metres above the bed then the people you see in it a 4 metres away .
One on the wall beside the bed is much better, and not quite so
obvious.


R

On Jul 5, 6:53 pm, Lobster wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
F wrote:
On 05/07/2007 13:43 The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I would definitely rely on glue.

I glued one on in similar circumstances and the adhesive I got from
the glaziers grabbed the mirror almost immediately. There was no need
for any support within a very short time.

I reckon ten to 20 minutes..BUT if its big and heavy thats long enough
to slide crooked..hence shove a batten under.

It sets off hard overnight, on plaster anyway. Guess it takes a week or
two to go full strength.

I put up a big mirror recently - nearly as big as the OP's - and used
mirror adhesive from Screwfix. The instructions advised IIRC something
like running 7-10mm diameter beads of adhesive vertically down the
mirror at 10cm intervals; doing that used up 3 tubes of the stuff. I
had previously screwed a temporary batten to the wall for it to sit on.

Instructions said to ensure the mirror wasn't less than 5mm (?) from the
wall, to ensure there's enough adhesive in the gap to do the job, and/or
to ensure enough airlow for it to cure. So I stuck a number of bits of
5mm packing all over the wall where the mirror would hang, so I could
press the mirror against the wall as hard as I liked without the glue
being extruded too much. I screwed three more temporary wooden
turn-pegs into the wall above the mirror to stop it falling forward.

It also said to leave it something like 48-96 hrs to set until the
support was removed.

All worked fine.


I notice that the instructions (ELCH Pro mirror bonding adhesive)
tell you to remove the polyproylene safety backing from the mirror if
a test shows the glue does not stick to it well enough.

Robert

On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:
"RobertL" wrote in message

ups.com...



i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.

We've got one about the same size in our bathroom (1900 x 750) and
it's great. Makes the room seem twice as big and helps bounce the
light around from the single small window.

It never seems to steam up - we've got a decent extractor in there...

I used eight of these (two packs) to fix it:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=46116

Steve

On Jul 6, 5:18 pm, stevelup wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:

"RobertL" wrote in message

oups.com...

i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).

Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.

We've got one about the same size in our bathroom (1900 x 750) and
it's great. Makes the room seem twice as big and helps bounce the
light around from the single small window.

It never seems to steam up - we've got a decent extractor in there...

I used eight of these (two packs) to fix it:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=46116

Steve

That's a neat way. But we had 8 holes drilled and used the little
screws with rubber grommets and chrome domes. We fixed it this
evening. Blobs of adhesive at 100mm separations on the back to make
it get support from the slightly uneven wall and the eight screws to
take the weight. It went up pretty easily with two of us.

Mnay thanks to everyone for a very useful discussion.

Robert

RobertL wrote:
On Jul 6, 5:18 pm, stevelup wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:08 pm, "George" wrote:

"RobertL" wrote in message
ups.com...
i wonder if anyone has words of wisdom about how to mount a large
mirror in the bathroom. In my case the mirror is 2200mm x 600mm and
6mm thick and weighs about 25 kg. It will be vertical (almost from
floor to ceiling). It has 4 holes along each vertical edge for screw
mounting to the wall. The wall is traditional plasterd blockwork
(internal).
Why would anyone want a mirror that size in the bathroom? and more to the
point it'll get steamed up in no time.
We've got one about the same size in our bathroom (1900 x 750) and
it's great. Makes the room seem twice as big and helps bounce the
light around from the single small window.

It never seems to steam up - we've got a decent extractor in there...

I used eight of these (two packs) to fix it:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=46116

Steve

That's a neat way. But we had 8 holes drilled and used the little
screws with rubber grommets and chrome domes. We fixed it this
evening. Blobs of adhesive at 100mm separations on the back to make
it get support from the slightly uneven wall and the eight screws to
take the weight. It went up pretty easily with two of us.

Mnay thanks to everyone for a very useful discussion.

Robert



Interesting that you did exactly what you proposed in the first place :-)