I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!
Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

Thanks

On 17 Mar, 10:35, Peter Hemmings wrote:

I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!
Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

Thanks

I dont know the Zanussi but generally there is no need to remove the
tub, but the drum must come out, since it is supported by the drum
bearings.

I did a bearing change not long ago... never again. If it were just an
ordinary washing machine I'd say forget it.


NT

"Peter Hemmings" wrote in message
. uk...
I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have had
it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit noisy.
I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a manual!
Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

Thanks

Believe it or not we have exactly the same machine in exactly the same
situation as yours, makes a hell of a noise when spinning.
we got a quote from a guy to fix it but the cost of the parts and his time
make repair uneconomical.
Got a new machine ordered.

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 12:06:57 -0000, "Scabbydug"
mused:


"Peter Hemmings" wrote in message
.uk...
I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have had
it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit noisy.
I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a manual!
Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

Thanks

Believe it or not we have exactly the same machine in exactly the same
situation as yours, makes a hell of a noise when spinning.
we got a quote from a guy to fix it but the cost of the parts and his time
make repair uneconomical.
Got a new machine ordered.

Normaly about £65-85 for bearings and a service. Not usually
uneconomical unless the machine is completely knackered.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 10:35:29 +0000, Peter Hemmings
mused:

I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!

Neither do I. I've never done one with the drum still in the machine,
as it only takes 5 mins to get the whole drum out once the machines is
split and disassembled anyway.

Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

It could be done, posssibly, but would take 5 times longer than taking
the drum out so no point.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

Lurch wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 10:35:29 +0000, Peter Hemmings
mused:

I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!

Neither do I. I've never done one with the drum still in the machine,
as it only takes 5 mins to get the whole drum out once the machines is
split and disassembled anyway.

Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

It could be done, posssibly, but would take 5 times longer than taking
the drum out so no point.

thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I
supported the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear
outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of
oil into the rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would
fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be
removing the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be
lying on the floor inside the back of the casing!
Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide
to attempt bearing renewal?
Thanks for your time

On 17 Mar, 14:02, Peter Hemmings wrote:

thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I
supported the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear
outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of
oil into the rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would
fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be
removing the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be
lying on the floor inside the back of the casing!
Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide
to attempt bearing renewal?
Thanks for your time

This doesnt make sense, I think maybe youve got your terms mixed up.
The drum is the rotating thing you see when the door is opened.
Surrounding this is a static water container called the tub. If you
rewrite...


NT

wrote:
On 17 Mar, 14:02, Peter Hemmings wrote:

thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I
supported the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear
outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of
oil into the rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would
fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be
removing the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be
lying on the floor inside the back of the casing!
Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide
to attempt bearing renewal?
Thanks for your time

This doesnt make sense, I think maybe youve got your terms mixed up.
The drum is the rotating thing you see when the door is opened.
Surrounding this is a static water container called the tub. If you
rewrite...
OK, sorry about that:

What was actually worrying me was how I supported the drum and tub
before I split it. I took the rear
outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of
oil into the rear bearing on the back of the tub. If I then took the
front casing off it would seem to fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the tub (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be
removing the bolt securing the rear bearing onto the back of the drum
shaft, which would be lying on the floor inside the back of the casing!
That's assuming I had tp lye the machine on its rear casing.
Could someone advise the method of getting at the tub (should I decide
to attempt bearing renewal)?



NT


I hope that's a bit clearer now

Regards

"Peter Hemmings" wrote in message
...
Lurch wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 10:35:29 +0000, Peter Hemmings
mused:

I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!

Neither do I. I've never done one with the drum still in the machine,
as it only takes 5 mins to get the whole drum out once the machines is
split and disassembled anyway.

Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

It could be done, posssibly, but would take 5 times longer than taking
the drum out so no point.

thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I supported
the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear outer case
of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of oil into the
rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be removing
the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be lying on the
floor inside the back of the casing!
Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide to
attempt bearing renewal?
Thanks for your time

When I had to split the tub on my old Zanussi washer dryer (WDJ1294 ISTR) to
replace the "tub seal"
(between the two halves of the plastic tub, this is what I did:

The problem with the "split casing" is that unlike the "standard"
construction there is not a strong 5-sided box with just a panel to remove
on the back, instead there are two rather flimsy 4-sided halves - the bottom
is a giant plastic moulding that they screw to. You have to take off either
the front or back half, but NOT at the same time. It's good fun because you
have to (based on what I worked out for myself):

-Take the top off
- Lay the thing down before it gets too flimsy and disconnect any hoses
underneath, e.g. things that connect to the pumps
-Take the back half off
-undo all hoses and cables and stuff that you can see, and all the rear
counterweights if you are going for a full tub removal
-undo the front half fixings
- replace the back half but not screw it on - ths keeps the flimsy internal
"frame" supported while you take the front off
- undo the seal and stuff round the door so you can get at some of the front
bits, door lock etc
- keeping the innards supported on the rear case half, remove the front
- remove the front counterweight
- remove any hoses and stuff accessible from the front
- probably put the front back on and remove the back so you can undo the
"shock absorbers" and springs that the tub is suspended from
- lower the tub gently and if you are lucky, get it out through the back (if
you have got enough hoses out of the way)

As Haynes says - reassembly is the reverse of the above!

All this could be totally wrong, although it worked for me. I'd be
interested in how "Lurch" can get one out
in 5 minutes!

Annoyingly, when I got the whole tub out, it turned out that the reason for
the leak was that a few of the (many) screws joining the two halves of the
tub had not been tightened fully it seemed. Tightening would probably have
done the job but by then I was committed so I changed the seal anyway.

Worked well for a few months before the bearings went. I got the bearings,
and some bearing pullers, but before I got up the enthusiasm to do the job,
the motor went. Ho hum. That was it - replaced it with a more modern
Zanussi, which is going stong.

I took loads of photos at the time but never got around to posting them
anywhere. Maybe I'll have another go some time.

Good luck!

Simon.

On 17 Mar, 20:41, Peter Hemmings wrote:

What was actually worrying me was how I supported the drum and tub
before I split it. I took the rear
outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of
oil into the rear bearing on the back of the tub. If I then took the
front casing off it would seem to fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the tub (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be
removing the bolt securing the rear bearing onto the back of the drum
shaft, which would be lying on the floor inside the back of the casing!
That's assuming I had tp lye the machine on its rear casing.
Could someone advise the method of getting at the tub (should I decide
to attempt bearing renewal)?



NT

I hope that's a bit clearer now

Regards


Yes, much. I dont know how yours disassembles, but you sure dont need
to worry about support. The drum is subject to enormous forces during
operation, and the tub to some extent too. Theyre very robust
components.


NT

Simon Stroud wrote:
"Peter Hemmings" wrote in message
...
Lurch wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 10:35:29 +0000, Peter Hemmings
mused:

I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!
Neither do I. I've never done one with the drum still in the machine,
as it only takes 5 mins to get the whole drum out once the machines is
split and disassembled anyway.

Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

It could be done, posssibly, but would take 5 times longer than taking
the drum out so no point.
thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I supported
the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear outer case
of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of oil into the
rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be removing
the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be lying on the
floor inside the back of the casing!
Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide to
attempt bearing renewal?
Thanks for your time

When I had to split the tub on my old Zanussi washer dryer (WDJ1294 ISTR) to
replace the "tub seal"
(between the two halves of the plastic tub, this is what I did:

The problem with the "split casing" is that unlike the "standard"
construction there is not a strong 5-sided box with just a panel to remove
on the back, instead there are two rather flimsy 4-sided halves - the bottom
is a giant plastic moulding that they screw to. You have to take off either
the front or back half, but NOT at the same time. It's good fun because you
have to (based on what I worked out for myself):

-Take the top off
- Lay the thing down before it gets too flimsy and disconnect any hoses
underneath, e.g. things that connect to the pumps
-Take the back half off
-undo all hoses and cables and stuff that you can see, and all the rear
counterweights if you are going for a full tub removal
-undo the front half fixings
- replace the back half but not screw it on - ths keeps the flimsy internal
"frame" supported while you take the front off
- undo the seal and stuff round the door so you can get at some of the front
bits, door lock etc
- keeping the innards supported on the rear case half, remove the front
- remove the front counterweight
- remove any hoses and stuff accessible from the front
- probably put the front back on and remove the back so you can undo the
"shock absorbers" and springs that the tub is suspended from
- lower the tub gently and if you are lucky, get it out through the back (if
you have got enough hoses out of the way)

Thanks very much for the detailed description - that was exactly what I
was on about!
Even though mine is not a wash/dryer, it your description fits exactly.
I was wondering how to support it/do I have to take both front/back
cases off, and it is now crystal clear.
Thanks


As Haynes says - reassembly is the reverse of the above!

All this could be totally wrong, although it worked for me. I'd be
interested in how "Lurch" can get one out
in 5 minutes!

Annoyingly, when I got the whole tub out, it turned out that the reason for
the leak was that a few of the (many) screws joining the two halves of the
tub had not been tightened fully it seemed. Tightening would probably have
done the job but by then I was committed so I changed the seal anyway.

its always the way!


Worked well for a few months before the bearings went. I got the bearings,
and some bearing pullers, but before I got up the enthusiasm to do the job,
the motor went. Ho hum. That was it - replaced it with a more modern
Zanussi, which is going strong.

Do you happen to know if it essential to have "pullers" or could they be
levered out!


I took loads of photos at the time but never got around to posting them
anywhere. Maybe I'll have another go some time.

Good luck!

Simon.



Thanks again for your detailed reply.

BTW I was told by 2 local spares shops that there were no spare brushes
for my model motor, but while googling today found them for £18
including vat and postage! Just shows what you can find!
(mine were OK though when I dismantled the motor)

"Peter Hemmings" wrote in message
...
Simon Stroud wrote:
"Peter Hemmings" wrote in message
...
Lurch wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 10:35:29 +0000, Peter Hemmings
mused:

I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!
Neither do I. I've never done one with the drum still in the machine,
as it only takes 5 mins to get the whole drum out once the machines is
split and disassembled anyway.

Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing
the whole of the drum?

It could be done, posssibly, but would take 5 times longer than taking
the drum out so no point.
thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I
supported the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear
outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of
oil into the rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would
fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be
removing the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be
lying on the floor inside the back of the casing!
Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide
to attempt bearing renewal?
Thanks for your time

When I had to split the tub on my old Zanussi washer dryer (WDJ1294 ISTR)
to replace the "tub seal"
(between the two halves of the plastic tub, this is what I did:

The problem with the "split casing" is that unlike the "standard"
construction there is not a strong 5-sided box with just a panel to
remove
on the back, instead there are two rather flimsy 4-sided halves - the
bottom
is a giant plastic moulding that they screw to. You have to take off
either
the front or back half, but NOT at the same time. It's good fun because
you
have to (based on what I worked out for myself):

-Take the top off
- Lay the thing down before it gets too flimsy and disconnect any hoses
underneath, e.g. things that connect to the pumps
-Take the back half off
-undo all hoses and cables and stuff that you can see, and all the rear
counterweights if you are going for a full tub removal
-undo the front half fixings
- replace the back half but not screw it on - ths keeps the flimsy
internal
"frame" supported while you take the front off
- undo the seal and stuff round the door so you can get at some of the
front
bits, door lock etc
- keeping the innards supported on the rear case half, remove the front
- remove the front counterweight
- remove any hoses and stuff accessible from the front
- probably put the front back on and remove the back so you can undo the
"shock absorbers" and springs that the tub is suspended from
- lower the tub gently and if you are lucky, get it out through the back
(if
you have got enough hoses out of the way)

Thanks very much for the detailed description - that was exactly what I
was on about!
Even though mine is not a wash/dryer, it your description fits exactly.
I was wondering how to support it/do I have to take both front/back cases
off, and it is now crystal clear.
Thanks


As Haynes says - reassembly is the reverse of the above!

All this could be totally wrong, although it worked for me. I'd be
interested in how "Lurch" can get one out
in 5 minutes!

Annoyingly, when I got the whole tub out, it turned out that the reason
for
the leak was that a few of the (many) screws joining the two halves of
the
tub had not been tightened fully it seemed. Tightening would probably
have
done the job but by then I was committed so I changed the seal anyway.

its always the way!


Worked well for a few months before the bearings went. I got the
bearings,
and some bearing pullers, but before I got up the enthusiasm to do the
job,
the motor went. Ho hum. That was it - replaced it with a more modern
Zanussi, which is going strong.

Do you happen to know if it essential to have "pullers" or could they be
levered out!


I took loads of photos at the time but never got around to posting them
anywhere. Maybe I'll have another go some time.

Good luck!

Simon.



Thanks again for your detailed reply.

BTW I was told by 2 local spares shops that there were no spare brushes
for my model motor, but while googling today found them for £18 including
vat and postage! Just shows what you can find!
(mine were OK though when I dismantled the motor)

Hi again,

Sorry I didn't actually get to the removing the bearing stage (as the motor
went) so I never discovered how essential pullers are. I got a cheap set and
later sold them on ebay as I can't think of many other uses for them.

One thing I would suggest - if you are splitting the "tub" it's well worth
replacing the seal between the two halves - with the huge project of
stripping the whole thing down it would be very annoying to introduce a
slight leak that would of course only be discovered when you get it all
powered up again.

Good luck!
Simon.

Simon Stroud wrote:

snip



Hi again,

Sorry I didn't actually get to the removing the bearing stage (as the motor
went) so I never discovered how essential pullers are.

OK

I got a cheap set and
later sold them on ebay as I can't think of many other uses for them.

One thing I would suggest - if you are splitting the "tub" it's well worth
replacing the seal between the two halves - with the huge project of
stripping the whole thing down it would be very annoying to introduce a
slight leak that would of course only be discovered when you get it all
powered up again.

Yep, for the cost its not worth the risk!



Good luck!

Thanks - its noisy but not too noisy ATM to make it a priority task!

Simon.