"Peter Hemmings" wrote in message
...
Lurch wrote:
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 10:35:29 +0000, Peter Hemmings
mused:

I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have
had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit
noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a
manual!

Neither do I. I've never done one with the drum still in the machine,
as it only takes 5 mins to get the whole drum out once the machines is
split and disassembled anyway.

Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the
whole of the drum?

It could be done, posssibly, but would take 5 times longer than taking
the drum out so no point.

thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I supported
the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear outer case
of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of oil into the
rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would fall apart!!
I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I
would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be removing
the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be lying on the
floor inside the back of the casing!
Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide to
attempt bearing renewal?
Thanks for your time

When I had to split the tub on my old Zanussi washer dryer (WDJ1294 ISTR) to
replace the "tub seal"
(between the two halves of the plastic tub, this is what I did:

The problem with the "split casing" is that unlike the "standard"
construction there is not a strong 5-sided box with just a panel to remove
on the back, instead there are two rather flimsy 4-sided halves - the bottom
is a giant plastic moulding that they screw to. You have to take off either
the front or back half, but NOT at the same time. It's good fun because you
have to (based on what I worked out for myself):

-Take the top off
- Lay the thing down before it gets too flimsy and disconnect any hoses
underneath, e.g. things that connect to the pumps
-Take the back half off
-undo all hoses and cables and stuff that you can see, and all the rear
counterweights if you are going for a full tub removal
-undo the front half fixings
- replace the back half but not screw it on - ths keeps the flimsy internal
"frame" supported while you take the front off
- undo the seal and stuff round the door so you can get at some of the front
bits, door lock etc
- keeping the innards supported on the rear case half, remove the front
- remove the front counterweight
- remove any hoses and stuff accessible from the front
- probably put the front back on and remove the back so you can undo the
"shock absorbers" and springs that the tub is suspended from
- lower the tub gently and if you are lucky, get it out through the back (if
you have got enough hoses out of the way)

As Haynes says - reassembly is the reverse of the above!

All this could be totally wrong, although it worked for me. I'd be
interested in how "Lurch" can get one out
in 5 minutes!

Annoyingly, when I got the whole tub out, it turned out that the reason for
the leak was that a few of the (many) screws joining the two halves of the
tub had not been tightened fully it seemed. Tightening would probably have
done the job but by then I was committed so I changed the seal anyway.

Worked well for a few months before the bearings went. I got the bearings,
and some bearing pullers, but before I got up the enthusiasm to do the job,
the motor went. Ho hum. That was it - replaced it with a more modern
Zanussi, which is going stong.

I took loads of photos at the time but never got around to posting them
anywhere. Maybe I'll have another go some time.

Good luck!

Simon.