Hi
I need a mains-powered planer to take about 3 - 4 mm off the long edge
of a solid (softwood) interior door.

Door used to fit fine - but then I installed parliament hinges (the
sort that fold back through 180 degrees) - and the result is that the
latch side of the door now binds due to the pivot point of the hinges
now being about 1.5" 'behind' the door.

I can't see myself needing the planer very often - so am reluctant to
spend much more than 50 UK pounds.

Have tried hiring - but the hire shops say that they've stopped hiring
power planers as they used to come back wrecked - someting to do with
planing embedded nails !

Any suggestions of brands to look out for - or even avoid ??!
Or even other ways of achieving the required result....?

Be even better if the thing was available from a supplier over here in
the Republic of Ireland.... gosh - I'm missing Screwfix ! g

Thanks

Adrian
West Cork, Ireland

Adrian
I have a Draper planer that I am getting rid of, since I now have a
Makita planer, along with a Robland Planer/Thicknesser. If you wanted
it then you could have it for £20 +postage. Its not been used much and
will do the job you want it for. Your other option is to use a circular
saw and clamp a guide to the door to get your straight line. If I was
now to buy a cheap planer I would go for either Draper, JCB, or
Axminster EHP82.
Calum Sabey
(NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
Hi
I need a mains-powered planer to take about 3 - 4 mm off the long edge
of a solid (softwood) interior door.

Door used to fit fine - but then I installed parliament hinges (the
sort that fold back through 180 degrees) - and the result is that the
latch side of the door now binds due to the pivot point of the hinges
now being about 1.5" 'behind' the door.

I can't see myself needing the planer very often - so am reluctant to
spend much more than 50 UK pounds.

Have tried hiring - but the hire shops say that they've stopped hiring
power planers as they used to come back wrecked - someting to do with
planing embedded nails !

Any suggestions of brands to look out for - or even avoid ??!
Or even other ways of achieving the required result....?

Be even better if the thing was available from a supplier over here in
the Republic of Ireland.... gosh - I'm missing Screwfix ! g

Thanks

Adrian
West Cork, Ireland

Aldi are selling them for £15 with 3 yr guarantee. Aldi are in Co Cork and
usually have the same deals as the UK.

Adrian wrote:
Hi
I need a mains-powered planer to take about 3 - 4 mm off the long edge
of a solid (softwood) interior door.

Door used to fit fine - but then I installed parliament hinges (the
sort that fold back through 180 degrees) - and the result is that the
latch side of the door now binds due to the pivot point of the hinges
now being about 1.5" 'behind' the door.

I can't see myself needing the planer very often - so am reluctant to
spend much more than 50 UK pounds.

I've just planed 4 doors exactly like this. I used a hand plane I
inherited when my father-in law died 25 years ago. Job took 30 minutes
at most for all 4 doors. I'm 64 years old. Are you sure you need a power
planer?

Another Dave

--
change nospam to f2s in e-mail

HI Calum

Thanks - you have email !

Adrian

On 19 Nov 2006 05:58:40 -0800, "
wrote:

Adrian
I have a Draper planer that I am getting rid of, since I now have a
Makita planer, along with a Robland Planer/Thicknesser. If you wanted
it then you could have it for £20 +postage. Its not been used much and
will do the job you want it for. Your other option is to use a circular
saw and clamp a guide to the door to get your straight line. If I was
now to buy a cheap planer I would go for either Draper, JCB, or
Axminster EHP82.
Calum Sabey
(NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)

In article ,
Another Dave wrote:
I've just planed 4 doors exactly like this. I used a hand plane I
inherited when my father-in law died 25 years ago. Job took 30 minutes
at most for all 4 doors. I'm 64 years old. Are you sure you need a power
planer?

Strange thing is there's not much difference in price between a decent
plane and a middling power one.

--
*Verbs HAS to agree with their subjects *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Another Dave wrote:
I've just planed 4 doors exactly like this. I used a hand plane I
inherited when my father-in law died 25 years ago. Job took 30 minutes
at most for all 4 doors. I'm 64 years old. Are you sure you need a power
planer?

Strange thing is there's not much difference in price between a decent
plane and a middling power one.

--
*Verbs HAS to agree with their subjects *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Yeah hand-plane. Or if you must have power then a circular saw with a
long piece of MFC as a guide (or google "sawboard"). Hand power planers
are not as useful as they look.

cheers
Jacob

In article .com,
normanwisdom wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Another Dave wrote:
I've just planed 4 doors exactly like this. I used a hand plane I
inherited when my father-in law died 25 years ago. Job took 30
minutes at most for all 4 doors. I'm 64 years old. Are you sure you
need a power planer?

Strange thing is there's not much difference in price between a decent
plane and a middling power one.

Yeah hand-plane. Or if you must have power then a circular saw with a
long piece of MFC as a guide (or google "sawboard"). Hand power planers
are not as useful as they look.

I'd not be without mine. Or hand planes come to that. Power planers need
skill to set up and use though - perhaps more so than many others.

--
*A closed mouth gathers no feet.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

HI Another Dave

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 16:07:41 +0000, Another Dave
wrote:

Adrian wrote:
Hi
I need a mains-powered planer to take about 3 - 4 mm off the long edge
of a solid (softwood) interior door.

Door used to fit fine - but then I installed parliament hinges (the
sort that fold back through 180 degrees) - and the result is that the
latch side of the door now binds due to the pivot point of the hinges
now being about 1.5" 'behind' the door.

I can't see myself needing the planer very often - so am reluctant to
spend much more than 50 UK pounds.

I've just planed 4 doors exactly like this. I used a hand plane I
inherited when my father-in law died 25 years ago. Job took 30 minutes
at most for all 4 doors. I'm 64 years old. Are you sure you need a power
planer?

Another Dave

You're right - perhaps 'need' was a bit OTT g

If I said, " I'd be more confident that I could do the job & end up
with a decent square finish using a power planer" than that's probably
nearer the truth g

If it was only a gnats that required removing then I'd be using my
little metal-soled Stanley plane - bought about 25 years ago and
probably not used more than half a dozen times since....

The biulder chappie who sorted some things for us in the last house
used a power-plane to fit the new doors, and I remember thinking then
'what a useful gadget' - but haven't needed one in the intervening 5
years - hence the reluctance to shell out large amounts of cash...

Did think of using the router, against a clamped-on guide, but the
deepest router bit I have isn't wide enough to do the job in one
pass... and a circular saw is a possibility, but the (cheap !) one I
have has a very coarse blade and would probably require planing again
to finish off.....

Thanks for the comments, anyway - sounds as if Callum may be able to
help me out.... g

Regards
Adrian
in wild, wet and windy West Cork

HI Dave

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:13:41 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article .com,
normanwisdom wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Another Dave wrote:
I've just planed 4 doors exactly like this. I used a hand plane I
inherited when my father-in law died 25 years ago. Job took 30
minutes at most for all 4 doors. I'm 64 years old. Are you sure you
need a power planer?

Strange thing is there's not much difference in price between a decent
plane and a middling power one.

Yeah hand-plane. Or if you must have power then a circular saw with a
long piece of MFC as a guide (or google "sawboard"). Hand power planers
are not as useful as they look.

I'd not be without mine. Or hand planes come to that. Power planers need
skill to set up and use though - perhaps more so than many others.

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Any reason I've overlooked why this isn't a Good Plan ?

Thanks
Adrian

Adrian wrote:

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

This will keep you going for a bit:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/plane.htm

I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Nope that is a fine and sensible way to do it - usualy simper to recut
hinge rebates than having to remount the latch assembly (especially if
it has a keyhole!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 2006-11-19 17:32:00 +0000, Adrian said:

HI Dave

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:13:41 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:


I'd not be without mine. Or hand planes come to that. Power planers need
skill to set up and use though - perhaps more so than many others.

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

The main two are to make sure that the work is properly and firmly
supported and
then not to be too agressive with cutting depth.

It's far better to take off small cuts of 0.5mm than 2mm in one go
unless you have
a great deal of material to remove. It's easier to control the
machine, the motor isn't
strained and there is an opportunity to correct mistakes.




I know it sounds kind of 'Irish'

You're in the right place for that (do they tell stories about Kerry men?)

- but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Any reason I've overlooked why this isn't a Good Plan ?



I don't see why not unless you were removing a lot of material and a design on
the door ended up looking out of balance.

Adrian wrote:

I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Any reason I've overlooked why this isn't a Good Plan ?

Thanks
Adrian

you need to do it that way, off the hinge side. Think what will go
wrong if you trim the lock side.

£25 Ferm power planer is fine, but youve already got a Stanley plane,
so you wont need anything anyway. If you pencil mark along each side of
the door, then plane down to 1mm from it, then down to 0.5mm, then
plane to it, it'll be nice + straight.

If you do get a power plane, tct blades are a must. Dont be tempted by
junk with steel blades. With a power plane making a zillion cuts a
second these wont go far. Even TCT have limited life.


NT

Hi John

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:42:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

This will keep you going for a bit:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/plane.htm

fairy nuff - all good points - especially the bit about the carrot in
the food processor !
thanks for the link !

Interesting that the faq mentions power-planers are good on mdf /
chipboard - got some mdf cupboard doors to manufacture next week -
also a new kitchen worktop - sounds like I need a power-planer !


I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Nope that is a fine and sensible way to do it - usualy simper to recut
hinge rebates than having to remount the latch assembly (especially if
it has a keyhole!)

yup - for some strange reason _all_ the internal doors in this (new
build) place have keyholes.

Not all of them have the wood actually cut away so's you can insert
the key .... and one of them had the catch actuator broken, and two of
them didn't have the striker plate fitted into the door-frame.... but
that's by-the-by....

Just spent a happy afternoon repainting the upstairs 'hall' and down
the stairs after some clown of a painter 'touched up' the paintwork
(magnolia vinyl matt) with many roller-fulls of mag vinyl SILK !

Bah ! - 'spose it was raining, anyway.....

Dont you just hate doing 'unnecessary' jobs ??

Regards
Adrian

Hi Andy

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:43:20 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2006-11-19 17:32:00 +0000, Adrian said:

HI Dave

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:13:41 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:


I'd not be without mine. Or hand planes come to that. Power planers need
skill to set up and use though - perhaps more so than many others.

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

The main two are to make sure that the work is properly and firmly
supported and
then not to be too agressive with cutting depth.

It's far better to take off small cuts of 0.5mm than 2mm in one go
unless you have
a great deal of material to remove. It's easier to control the
machine, the motor isn't
strained and there is an opportunity to correct mistakes.

Sounds very sensible.....
I was going to clamp the door upright in my trusty workmate - maybe
even another clamp onto the sturdy wooden 'outside table' (which seems
to be getting a lot more use as a trestle than as a place to drink
afternoon tea, recently !)




I know it sounds kind of 'Irish'

You're in the right place for that (do they tell stories about Kerry men?)

Wouldn't know - & wouldn't dare comment - as everybody seems to either
'know' or 'be related to' everybody else round here. Anyway, we're in
Cork, rather than Kerry.... g


- but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Any reason I've overlooked why this isn't a Good Plan ?



I don't see why not unless you were removing a lot of material and a design on
the door ended up looking out of balance.

It's not more than 2 - 3 mm - so I don't think it's going to make an
awful lot of difference....

Thanks
Adrian

Hi

On 19 Nov 2006 09:58:37 -0800, wrote:

Adrian wrote:

I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Any reason I've overlooked why this isn't a Good Plan ?

Thanks
Adrian

you need to do it that way, off the hinge side. Think what will go
wrong if you trim the lock side.

Could be a bit of a 'fiddle' the 'drift' the lock mechanism, handles
etc across by 3 mm - that's why I thought to take it off the hinge
side...


£25 Ferm power planer is fine, but youve already got a Stanley plane,
so you wont need anything anyway. If you pencil mark along each side of
the door, then plane down to 1mm from it, then down to 0.5mm, then
plane to it, it'll be nice + straight.

If you do get a power plane, tct blades are a must. Dont be tempted by
junk with steel blades. With a power plane making a zillion cuts a
second these wont go far. Even TCT have limited life.

OK - I'll look out for that
Thanks
Adrian

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
Hi John

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:42:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

This will keep you going for a bit:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/plane.htm

fairy nuff - all good points - especially the bit about the carrot in
the food processor !
thanks for the link !

Interesting that the faq mentions power-planers are good on mdf /
chipboard - got some mdf cupboard doors to manufacture next week -
also a new kitchen worktop - sounds like I need a power-planer !


I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less
noticeable if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves
messing with the lock mechanism.

Nope that is a fine and sensible way to do it - usualy simper to recut
hinge rebates than having to remount the latch assembly (especially if
it has a keyhole!)

yup - for some strange reason _all_ the internal doors in this (new
build) place have keyholes.

That does sound Irish :-)

Adrian
My email address is
Look forward to hearing from you if still interested.
Calum Sabey
(NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 18:10:07 +0000, Adrian wrote:

Hi John

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:42:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

This will keep you going for a bit:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/plane.htm

fairy nuff - all good points - especially the bit about the carrot in the
food processor !
thanks for the link !

Interesting that the faq mentions power-planers are good on mdf /
chipboard - got some mdf cupboard doors to manufacture next week - also a
new kitchen worktop - sounds like I need a power-planer !


I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less noticeable
if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves messing with the
lock mechanism.

Nope that is a fine and sensible way to do it - usualy simper to recut
hinge rebates than having to remount the latch assembly (especially if it
has a keyhole!)

snipped

================================
Mark the limit of your cut with a pencil mark on both sides of the door
and take several small cuts rather than one big one. Check the edge
of the door for square as you get close to your pencil marks and correct
as necessary. If you don't finish with a square edge it will be
difficult to get your hinges to lie properly.

Cic.

--
================================
Testing UBUNTU Linux
Everything working so far
================================

On 2006-11-19 18:14:18 +0000, Adrian said:


Sounds very sensible.....
I was going to clamp the door upright in my trusty workmate - maybe
even another clamp onto the sturdy wooden 'outside table' (which seems
to be getting a lot more use as a trestle than as a place to drink
afternoon tea, recently !)


If you can find a way to clamp both ends it would be a good plan






I know it sounds kind of 'Irish'

You're in the right place for that (do they tell stories about Kerry men?)

Wouldn't know - & wouldn't dare comment - as everybody seems to either
'know' or 'be related to' everybody else round here. Anyway, we're in
Cork, rather than Kerry.... g

People from Dublin and from Cork, knowing bout generic Irish jokes,
tell me that they tell jokes about Kerry men.... :-) Nobody
seemed to know who Kerry men tell jokes about.

Andy Hall wrote:

On 2006-11-19 18:14:18 +0000, Adrian said:



Sounds very sensible.....
I was going to clamp the door upright in my trusty workmate - maybe
even another clamp onto the sturdy wooden 'outside table' (which seems
to be getting a lot more use as a trestle than as a place to drink
afternoon tea, recently !)



If you can find a way to clamp both ends it would be a good plan

A nice simple way of doing doors is with a couple of bits of 4x2" about
4' long. You cut a notch in the middle of each - about half way through
the long axis, and about 2" wide. Now cut a couple of wood wedges. Lay
your 4x2"s on the ground with the notches facing up, and sit the edge of
the door into the notch and tap the wedge in alongside it so that it is
held firmly in the notch.

You can now plane away, and the door will stay upright all by itself.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

HI Calum

Have emailed you directly - yes - I'm very interested !

Regards
Adrian

On 19 Nov 2006 10:48:03 -0800, "
wrote:

Adrian
My email address is
Look forward to hearing from you if still interested.
Calum Sabey
(NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)

HI cicero

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 18:50:57 GMT, Cicero
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 18:10:07 +0000, Adrian wrote:

Hi John

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 17:42:12 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

Oh c'mon - you can't leave it like that ! g

Any hints or tips ??

ISTR that the one our builder chappie had was simply set up with a
'depth' dial at the front, also some kind of a fence for rebating.

What other subtleties do I need to be aware of ?

This will keep you going for a bit:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/plane.htm

fairy nuff - all good points - especially the bit about the carrot in the
food processor !
thanks for the link !

Interesting that the faq mentions power-planers are good on mdf /
chipboard - got some mdf cupboard doors to manufacture next week - also a
new kitchen worktop - sounds like I need a power-planer !


I know it sounds kind of 'Irish' - but I was considering planing off
the material at the hinge side of the door - on the grounds that the
new parliament hinges require a different 'rebate' to the originals,
and that any slight innacuracies in the planing will be less noticeable
if they're on the hinge-side of the door. Also saves messing with the
lock mechanism.

Nope that is a fine and sensible way to do it - usualy simper to recut
hinge rebates than having to remount the latch assembly (especially if it
has a keyhole!)

snipped

================================
Mark the limit of your cut with a pencil mark on both sides of the door
and take several small cuts rather than one big one. Check the edge
of the door for square as you get close to your pencil marks and correct
as necessary. If you don't finish with a square edge it will be
difficult to get your hinges to lie properly.

OK - thanks for that....
Regards
Adrian

Hi Andy

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 19:07:54 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2006-11-19 18:14:18 +0000, Adrian said:


Sounds very sensible.....
I was going to clamp the door upright in my trusty workmate - maybe
even another clamp onto the sturdy wooden 'outside table' (which seems
to be getting a lot more use as a trestle than as a place to drink
afternoon tea, recently !)


If you can find a way to clamp both ends it would be a good plan

Yup !







I know it sounds kind of 'Irish'

You're in the right place for that (do they tell stories about Kerry men?)

Wouldn't know - & wouldn't dare comment - as everybody seems to either
'know' or 'be related to' everybody else round here. Anyway, we're in
Cork, rather than Kerry.... g

People from Dublin and from Cork, knowing bout generic Irish jokes,
tell me that they tell jokes about Kerry men.... :-) Nobody
seemed to know who Kerry men tell jokes about.


Many moons ago I worked on contract for BT - up in Edinburgh.
The locals there told the same jokes as the Dubliners and the Cork
guys - except they told them about the people from just over the
bridge - the 'Fifers' as thay called them.....

A few years before that we had an old Penzance lady in my parents shop
in Hayle (west Cornwall).
She said, with a completely straight face - "Well midears, I went on
the train to Plymouth when I was in my teens (she was 80 if she was a
day!). They all spoke funny - so I've not bothered to go that far
again".

It's about 65 miles from Hayle to Penzance....

Regards
Adrian

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 18:10:07 +0000, Adrian wrote:

Dont you just hate doing 'unnecessary' jobs ??

New build I'd be onto the builders to do the job(s) properly to standard.
Ah, they didn't do 'em properly the first time what chance the second...

My "unnecessary" job today was to reskim about 4 sq foot of ceiling that
fell off as I was removing the nasty Artex (or very thick emulsion) that
was peeling off in places, I just knew would peel off completely when I
put the fresh emulsion on later.

Quite pleased it's flat and smooth, might need a bit of touching up
around the edges to blend in but otherwise I'm well chuffed. Starting to
get the hang of this plastering lark. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2006-11-19 18:14:18 +0000, Adrian said:


Sounds very sensible.....
I was going to clamp the door upright in my trusty workmate - maybe
even another clamp onto the sturdy wooden 'outside table' (which seems
to be getting a lot more use as a trestle than as a place to drink
afternoon tea, recently !)


If you can find a way to clamp both ends it would be a good plan






I know it sounds kind of 'Irish'

You're in the right place for that (do they tell stories about Kerry
men?)

Wouldn't know - & wouldn't dare comment - as everybody seems to either
'know' or 'be related to' everybody else round here. Anyway, we're in
Cork, rather than Kerry.... g

People from Dublin and from Cork, knowing bout generic Irish jokes, tell
me that they tell jokes about Kerry men.... :-) Nobody seemed to
know who Kerry men tell jokes about.

Matt, people in Little Middle England?

HI Dave

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 21:47:34 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 18:10:07 +0000, Adrian wrote:

Dont you just hate doing 'unnecessary' jobs ??

New build I'd be onto the builders to do the job(s) properly to standard.
Ah, they didn't do 'em properly the first time what chance the second...

True.
Itr's more complicated than that, though.
New build it is - but we bought the place from the guy who had it
built - so we've no contract with the builders themselves.

You got it right about '2nd-time round' though - don't have a lot of
confidence in their ability to improve on what they did the 1st
time...


My "unnecessary" job today was to reskim about 4 sq foot of ceiling that
fell off as I was removing the nasty Artex (or very thick emulsion) that
was peeling off in places, I just knew would peel off completely when I
put the fresh emulsion on later.

Quite pleased it's flat and smooth, might need a bit of touching up
around the edges to blend in but otherwise I'm well chuffed. Starting to
get the hang of this plastering lark. B-)

They do say that it's all down to practise.... g
That's one job that I'll happily leave to the pros - that and anything
to do with heights....

Having said that, I need to shin up a ladder later today and find out
/ fix whatever it is that's flapping about on the roof when the strong
westerlies blow. I'm guessing it's either some UPVC fascia that's held
in place with spit, or they've not clipped the guttering in
properly....

Ho hum

Adrian