- How do you stop it making a little step in the end of the piece
when the front foot drops off the end? Like this;

Clamp an offcut of wood to the end. Then the offcut gets the step instead of
the door. My planer came with a official sock to put on the exhaust.

Christian.

In article ,
Huge wrote:
Bought one of these to do some doors. Jeez, that's a scary tool!

But ever so useful.

- Is it OK to fasten a sock or something over the exhaust to stop it
blowing shavings *all* over the room? (Yes, I know it'll have to be
emptied pretty often).

My B&D came with a dust bag. Never use it, though.

- How do you stop it making a little step in the end of the piece when
the front foot drops off the end? Like this;

Press down hard on the back while holding the front steady. Takes some
practice. After that, you need to work out how to get a right angle face
after a few passes. And tell me. ;-)

--
*Certain frogs can be frozen solid, then thawed, and survive *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Huge wrote:
Bought one of these to do some doors. Jeez, that's a scary tool!

- Is it OK to fasten a sock or something over the exhaust to stop it
blowing shavings *all* over the room? (Yes, I know it'll have to be
emptied pretty often).
There's supposed to be a small sock like bag that goes over the exhaust,
this fills pretty quickly though;
or you connect it to your vacuum cleaner.
- How do you stop it making a little step in the end of the piece
when the front foot drops off the end? Like this;

-------\________
|
|
|
-----------------
With lots and lots of practice :-)
Seriously though, you have to anticipate when the plane is getting to the
end and compensate.

On 6 Oct 2003 13:14:37 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Bought one of these to do some doors. Jeez, that's a scary tool!

Got a model/quote number? That's one I've missed apparently. (still at
the wondering and plotting stage here)

Take Care,
Gnube
{too thick for linux}

On 6 Oct 2003 17:25:04 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

It reduces skirting board to wood chippings very satisfactorily.

Hopefully you intended to reduce the skirting board to wood chippings
though.....

PoP

- How do you stop it making a little step in the end of the piece
when the front foot drops off the end? Like this;

If this happens your blades are set wrong. The blades should cut to
exactly the depth of the rear plate, and the plane runs off the end
without any variation in height.

What to do about it is another matter, but if possible adjust the
blades or drum position to cure it.

Regards, NT

On 6 Oct 2003 17:25:04 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Gnube writes:
On 6 Oct 2003 13:14:37 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Bought one of these to do some doors. Jeez, that's a scary tool!

Got a model/quote number? That's one I've missed apparently. (still at
the wondering and plotting stage here)

It's the "Ferm" 240V 710W one. About £80. Although the one that
came is labelled "Freud" and the manual appears to have been translated
from the Serbo-Croatian by a native Japanese speaker.

I looked at several in the local shed, including B&D and their own
brand, which were much cheaper but distressingly toy-like.

It reduces skirting board to wood chippings very satisfactorily.

I have the Stayer one they do and it's exactly the same.

The Zero position is not zero!! It will still take a lot of wood off
even on 0... plus it gouges the end or start no matter how you press
down on it.

It's the only tool I've bought I don't "like".

If it could be set up to have a zero it might be more user friendly?

Mark S.

On 6 Oct 2003 17:25:04 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

It's the "Ferm" 240V 710W one. About £80. Although the one that
came is labelled "Freud"

I think you've had a bit of a result there - you may have meant to get
ferm, but got the freud, and it probably is a scary wee beast - I got
their circular saw, and that has the same family trait! From my
experience so far of owning tools from both makers, the Ferm and
Freud, should be like chalk and cheese!

and the manual appears to have been translated
from the Serbo-Croatian by a native Japanese speaker.

That sounds all too familiar as well!

82mm blade at a guess?

I looked at several in the local shed, including B&D and their own
brand, which were much cheaper but distressingly toy-like.

Was thinking that this might be the way of it.

It reduces skirting board to wood chippings very satisfactorily.

I can well imagine if their CS is anything to go by! ;O) They rated it
at 1200W, and I'm pretty sure they packed every single one of them in
the box! [1]

Anyway, thanks for the mini performance report, most interesting. I'm
wondering if their 1/2" router is a good as it might be too. If it is,
I think I may be happy with that to replace the DeWalt I miss pretty
badly!

[1] (you know how some seem to say they'll send you so many watts, but
in reality it feels like they must have had a shortage of watts that
day, and held on to half of them to put in the next machine coming
down the production line?) ;O)

Take Care,
Gnube
{too thick for linux}

In article ,
N. Thornton wrote:
If this happens your blades are set wrong. The blades should cut to
exactly the depth of the rear plate, and the plane runs off the end
without any variation in height.

Yes, but this requires some practice to apply maximum pressure to the back
of the plane while lifting slightly - or at least taking the weight at the
front, and this is different from how you use it on the rest of the run -
or at least the start.

What to do about it is another matter, but if possible adjust the
blades or drum position to cure it.

--
*Cover me. I'm changing lanes.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

In article ,
Mark S. wrote:
If it could be set up to have a zero it might be more user friendly?

By elderly B&D allows a fair old adjustment of the blades, but it's a
fiddly business. I use a straight edge and set the blades with a 1.5 thou
feeler blade to give clearance at zero.

--
*Is there another word for synonym?

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn