I have an old 60 year old house that has a raised timber ground floor
above a concrete floor. The void is aprox 3 ft.

Traditionally you would fill this with hardcore and then a layer of
concrete, to form a new floor.

But my wife insisted on getting laminate flooring ontop of the T&G and
beams, and I do not want to lift that.

Is there any other way of insulating the floor void. I have thought
about injecting cavity wall insulation.

Any ideas or suggestions that the regulations people would accept ???

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 06:51:56 GMT, bendit wrote:

I have an old 60 year old house that has a raised timber ground floor
above a concrete floor. The void is aprox 3 ft.

Traditionally you would fill this with hardcore and then a layer of
concrete, to form a new floor.

But my wife insisted on getting laminate flooring ontop of the T&G and
beams, and I do not want to lift that.

Is there any other way of insulating the floor void. I have thought
about injecting cavity wall insulation.

Any ideas or suggestions that the regulations people would accept ???

There's usually access to the under floor area. Mine's via a few loose
boards inside a cupboard. I've yet to insulate my ground floor area.
My immediate neighbour went down to look at his the other day and
found that there was rockwool between the joists, held in place by a
covering of chicken wire.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 06:51:56 GMT, bendit wrote:

I have an old 60 year old house that has a raised timber ground floor
above a concrete floor. The void is aprox 3 ft.

Traditionally you would fill this with hardcore and then a layer of
concrete, to form a new floor.

But my wife insisted on getting laminate flooring ontop of the T&G and
beams, and I do not want to lift that.

Is there any other way of insulating the floor void. I have thought
about injecting cavity wall insulation.

Any ideas or suggestions that the regulations people would accept ???

I went under mine and used 1 of 2 techniques

1) rockwall held in place with plastic mesh - horrid job to do
2) polysyerine cut and wedged in.

I would use kingspan if I did it again.

Rick

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 08:14:00 GMT, Rick wrote:

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 06:51:56 GMT, bendit wrote:

I have an old 60 year old house that has a raised timber ground floor
above a concrete floor. The void is aprox 3 ft.

Traditionally you would fill this with hardcore and then a layer of
concrete, to form a new floor.

But my wife insisted on getting laminate flooring ontop of the T&G and
beams, and I do not want to lift that.

Is there any other way of insulating the floor void. I have thought
about injecting cavity wall insulation.

Any ideas or suggestions that the regulations people would accept ???

I went under mine and used 1 of 2 techniques

1) rockwall held in place with plastic mesh - horrid job to do

That's what's deterring me. Maybe measure up and put the rockwool into
polythene tubes, then seal the ends before fitting. That would reduce
most of the unpleasant effects.

2) polysyerine cut and wedged in.

Lot's of potential for ill fitting and pipework obstructions here.

I would use kingspan if I did it again.

Looks good, haven't made a price comparison.
Rick

--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.

bendit wrote:
I have an old 60 year old house that has a raised timber ground floor
above a concrete floor. The void is aprox 3 ft.

Traditionally you would fill this with hardcore and then a layer of
concrete, to form a new floor.

But my wife insisted on getting laminate flooring ontop of the T&G and
beams, and I do not want to lift that.

Is there any other way of insulating the floor void. I have thought
about injecting cavity wall insulation.

Any ideas or suggestions that the regulations people would accept ???
i would seriously consider kingspan, all you have to do is put lats
over(under in actual fact) to hold it up and if you need to it can
easily be removed and put back for maintainance on the floor/pipework!

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:27:02 +0100, Mike Halmarack ... wrote:

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 08:14:00 GMT, Rick wrote:

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 06:51:56 GMT, bendit wrote:

I have an old 60 year old house that has a raised timber ground floor
above a concrete floor. The void is aprox 3 ft.

Traditionally you would fill this with hardcore and then a layer of
concrete, to form a new floor.

But my wife insisted on getting laminate flooring ontop of the T&G and
beams, and I do not want to lift that.

Is there any other way of insulating the floor void. I have thought
about injecting cavity wall insulation.

Any ideas or suggestions that the regulations people would accept ???

I went under mine and used 1 of 2 techniques

1) rockwall held in place with plastic mesh - horrid job to do

That's what's deterring me. Maybe measure up and put the rockwool into
polythene tubes, then seal the ends before fitting. That would reduce
most of the unpleasant effects.

2) polysyerine cut and wedged in.

Lot's of potential for ill fitting and pipework obstructions here.

I would use kingspan if I did it again.

Looks good, haven't made a price comparison.
Rick

Kingspan / polystyering have similar mechanical properties. Kingspan
insulates twice as well per mm of thickness, so you use half as much
or get it twice as good. B&Q prices were 50mm thick 17.05 100mm 32.54
for an 8x4 sheet inc VAT, these were competative when I last checked.

You can use sprayfaom to fill in any gaps you leave.

The rockwall solution is massivly unplesant, not only to fit, but to
do any work on pipes/wires in the future. Rockwayy themselves do some
floor insulation slabs which expand to tightly fit beween joists, I
have not used these yet, but they may work out well for you.

Rick

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 10:39:50 GMT, Rick wrote:


Kingspan / polystyering have similar mechanical properties. Kingspan
insulates twice as well per mm of thickness, so you use half as much
or get it twice as good. B&Q prices were 50mm thick 17.05 100mm 32.54
for an 8x4 sheet inc VAT, these were competative when I last checked.

You can use sprayfaom to fill in any gaps you leave.

The rockwall solution is massivly unplesant, not only to fit, but to
do any work on pipes/wires in the future. Rockwayy themselves do some
floor insulation slabs which expand to tightly fit beween joists, I
have not used these yet, but they may work out well for you.

Rick

Thanks for the useful info, I'll go and check the price of Rockwool
polythene tubing and chicken wire or plastic mesh now.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 13:34:14 +0100, Mike Halmarack ... wrote:

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 10:39:50 GMT, Rick wrote:


Kingspan / polystyering have similar mechanical properties. Kingspan
insulates twice as well per mm of thickness, so you use half as much
or get it twice as good. B&Q prices were 50mm thick 17.05 100mm 32.54
for an 8x4 sheet inc VAT, these were competative when I last checked.

You can use sprayfaom to fill in any gaps you leave.

The rockwall solution is massivly unplesant, not only to fit, but to
do any work on pipes/wires in the future. Rockwayy themselves do some
floor insulation slabs which expand to tightly fit beween joists, I
have not used these yet, but they may work out well for you.

Rick

Thanks for the useful info, I'll go and check the price of Rockwool
polythene tubing and chicken wire or plastic mesh now.

At ebay prices:
80.6 square meters 100mm rockwool £270.00 (free delivery)

Equivalent area of Kingspan insulation (which would tend to produce
more waste) at B&Q prices £875.00

I'll go for the Rockwool in a polythene tube option.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.

Yeh but I do not want to lift the floor, even a small inspection
hatch.

I was thinking about drilling thru an air brick, and then injecting
the void with cavity wall expanding foam ??? Or getting an insualtion
company to inject it.

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 13:54:11 GMT, bendit wrote:

Yeh but I do not want to lift the floor, even a small inspection
hatch.
Sure, what you want and don't want to do is a most valid
consideration. Personally I'd tend to try to be flexible on a
effectiveness/convenience/cost basis.

I was thinking about drilling thru an air brick, and then injecting
the void with cavity wall expanding foam ??? Or getting an insualtion
company to inject it.

that's a lot of foam if I understand you right and wouldn't the foam
object formed breach the damp proof course by capillary action?
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.

Sure, what you want and don't want to do is a most valid
consideration. Personally I'd tend to try to be flexible on a
effectiveness/convenience/cost basis.

Floor cost me £700 to get put in, so any heat savings and cost of
ripping part of it up, and putting it back down, has got to out way
the cost of doing it.

If costs are too much I may as well brick up the air bricks, and
accept that in 20 years time or so, the joists will have rotted, and
replace the lot with a concrete floor.

that's a lot of foam if I understand you right and wouldn't the foam
object formed breach the damp proof course by capillary action?

Doesn't cavity wall foam have the same problem of breaching the damp
proof course ??

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 18:13:58 GMT, bendit wrote:


Sure, what you want and don't want to do is a most valid
consideration. Personally I'd tend to try to be flexible on a
effectiveness/convenience/cost basis.

Floor cost me £700 to get put in, so any heat savings and cost of
ripping part of it up, and putting it back down, has got to out way
the cost of doing it.

I would describe making an access hatch as "ripping part of it up". It
could be done much more subtley than that. Even better if it can be
done from inside a fitted cupboard or similar.

If costs are too much I may as well brick up the air bricks, and
accept that in 20 years time or so, the joists will have rotted, and
replace the lot with a concrete floor.

I get the impression that you really want a concrete floor.:-)

that's a lot of foam if I understand you right and wouldn't the foam
object formed breach the damp proof course by capillary action?

Doesn't cavity wall foam have the same problem of breaching the damp
proof course ??

It would tend to but a large monolithic block of foam would have a
much greater area to draw moisture from.

OTOH, foam insulation might be the answer to my 1st floor draught
problem, so thanks for bringing it up.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:27:02 +0100, Mike Halmarack ... wrote:



That's what's deterring me. Maybe measure up and put the rockwool into
polythene tubes, then seal the ends before fitting. That would reduce
most of the unpleasant effects.


Knauf do an 100mm thick "itch free" fibre glass type material already
wrapped in a polythene tube. I've been thinking about it for this use
for some time.

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 08:46:46 GMT, Gav ""gavbriggs\"@[cut the
spam]blueyonder.co.uk" wrote:

bendit wrote:
I have an old 60 year old house that has a raised timber ground floor
above a concrete floor. The void is aprox 3 ft.

Traditionally you would fill this with hardcore and then a layer of
concrete, to form a new floor.

But my wife insisted on getting laminate flooring ontop of the T&G and
beams, and I do not want to lift that.

Is there any other way of insulating the floor void. I have thought
about injecting cavity wall insulation.

Any ideas or suggestions that the regulations people would accept ???
i would seriously consider kingspan, all you have to do is put lats
over(under in actual fact) to hold it up and if you need to it can
easily be removed and put back for maintainance on the floor/pipework!

How did you seal gaps around the edges of the Kingspan to keep the
warm air above the insulation?

On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 12:18:20 GMT, marvelous
wrote:

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:27:02 +0100, Mike Halmarack ... wrote:



That's what's deterring me. Maybe measure up and put the rockwool into
polythene tubes, then seal the ends before fitting. That would reduce
most of the unpleasant effects.


Knauf do an 100mm thick "itch free" fibre glass type material already
wrapped in a polythene tube. I've been thinking about it for this use
for some time.

Sounds like a very useful product. I don't mind taking standard fibre
glass and wrapping it myself if it saves me the price of a few bottles
of vinous, but I'll definitely do a price comparison there.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.