Hi all,

I've just sheared the shear pin for the X power feed on my Gorton 8D.
Obviously, I'd like to replace it. I haven't pulled it out yet, but was
wondering if anyone knew what material this is likely to be. I'm assuming I
can just order a length of whatever it is and cut to size, without ordering
the Gorton 8D unobtanium shearing pin at $49.95...

Regards,

Peter

"Peter Grey" wrote in message
nk.net...
So if I ask for a shear pin a good store will know what I'm talking about?
What is a shear pin made of?

Peter

Should be nothing more than mild steel, Peter. Check with a magnet to make
sure it's magnetic. If it is, anything that could be heat treated would
hardly act like a shear pin-----it would likely be too hard to function
properly. The whole idea behind shear pins is to let go to save other
components. You should be able to make the pin, but if it's a tapered one,
please describe it---could be I have one.

Harold

On Thu, 03 Feb 2005 04:46:49 GMT, "Peter Grey"
wrote:

So if I ask for a shear pin a good store will know what I'm talking about?
What is a shear pin made of?

The shear pins on my snow blower are 5/16 grade 5 bolts. my outboard
motor takes 3/16 brazing rod. A shear pin is made of whatever material
the designer feels will protect the mechanism from serious damage
while transmitting sufficient power to accomplish the intended task.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I agree with Gerry in London(just abit west of me).. my JD140 uses Grade 5
bolts for the shear pin( yes, I found out the hard way....ugh).
Number 2 is too soft and may just fold over causing all sorts of
grief..number 8 is way too hard and 'other' things will break before the
bolt does.

Jay in Ggreensville,Ont

"Peter Grey" wrote in message
nk.net...
So if I ask for a shear pin a good store will know what I'm talking about?
What is a shear pin made of?

It depends upon the application. My 6' Howse mower (bush hog) uses 1/2"
grade-5 steel bolts.

My 6" baby Atlas lathe uses zinc for some, and soft steel for others.

If there is significant "play" in the joint held by the pin, and the actions
on the joint are forceful and rapid, definite "work hardening" of a pin
could occur. In that case, it might be a good idea to use a non-ferrous pin
that is less likely to harden than might some steels.

Check out an outboard marine supply. They have shear pins in a number of
sizes. (for outboard engine propellers)

LLoyd

Harold and Susan Vordos wrote:

"Peter Grey" wrote in message
nk.net...

So if I ask for a shear pin a good store will know what I'm talking about?
What is a shear pin made of?

Peter


Should be nothing more than mild steel, Peter. Check with a magnet to make
sure it's magnetic. If it is, anything that could be heat treated would
hardly act like a shear pin-----it would likely be too hard to function
properly. The whole idea behind shear pins is to let go to save other
components. You should be able to make the pin, but if it's a tapered one,
please describe it---could be I have one.

Harold


The ones on our lathes are brass. We have had to make a few. :-)
They are tapered, I think the same taper as a "taper pin".
...lew...

On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 07:41:35 -0500, j.b. miller wrote:
I agree with Gerry in London(just abit west of me).. my JD140 uses Grade 5
bolts for the shear pin( yes, I found out the hard way....ugh).
Number 2 is too soft and may just fold over causing all sorts of
grief..number 8 is way too hard and 'other' things will break before the
bolt does.

Would it be wise to spark-test the old one on a grinder to at least
get an idea of the pin's composition? Doesn't tell the whole story,
but would that be useful?

Dave Hinz

In article et,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

If there is significant "play" in the joint held by the pin, and the actions
on the joint are forceful and rapid, definite "work hardening" of a pin
could occur. In that case, it might be a good idea to use a non-ferrous pin
that is less likely to harden than might some steels.

If there is any detectable play in the shear pin joint it is better to
ream out to a bigger size so the joint is tight.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

Should be nothing more than mild steel, Peter. Check with a magnet to make
sure it's magnetic. If it is, anything that could be heat treated would
hardly act like a shear pin-----it would likely be too hard to function
properly. The whole idea behind shear pins is to let go to save other
components. You should be able to make the pin, but if it's a tapered one,
please describe it---could be I have one.

On my farm equipment I use grade 8 bolts, they hold well and break
clean. Grade 2 and sometimes grade 5 smear at the break and are a real
dog to get out.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show "Peter Grey"
wrote back on Thu, 03 Feb 2005 01:42:23 GMT in
rec.crafts.metalworking :
Hi all,

I've just sheared the shear pin for the X power feed on my Gorton 8D.
Obviously, I'd like to replace it. I haven't pulled it out yet, but was
wondering if anyone knew what material this is likely to be. I'm assuming I
can just order a length of whatever it is and cut to size, without ordering
the Gorton 8D unobtanium shearing pin at $49.95...

Sheer pins are made of what ever will bear the load but still sheer off
when things go wrong.

Brass, mild steel, aluminum. Whatever you have handy.

(I still have a few brass pins with too much taper, too much chatter,
the usual first year student errors when turning small things down.)


tschus
pyotr

--
pyotr filipivich.
as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James
Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at
producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with."

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

Should be nothing more than mild steel, Peter. Check with a magnet to
make
sure it's magnetic. If it is, anything that could be heat treated would
hardly act like a shear pin-----it would likely be too hard to function
properly. The whole idea behind shear pins is to let go to save other
components. You should be able to make the pin, but if it's a tapered
one,
please describe it---could be I have one.

On my farm equipment I use grade 8 bolts, they hold well and break
clean. Grade 2 and sometimes grade 5 smear at the break and are a real
dog to get out.

Chuckle!! And if the grade 8 holds and the gear doesn't, how hard and
expensive is it to change the gear(s)?

Shear pins are generally supposed to be the weak link in a
circuit-------intended to fail before expensive components do. If you've
been shearing grade 8 bolts and they're not undercut, you're one lucky man,
unless your equipment is designed around the concept. Does the
manufacturer recommend the grade 8 bolts?

Harold

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

Should be nothing more than mild steel, Peter. Check with a magnet to
make
sure it's magnetic. If it is, anything that could be heat treated would
hardly act like a shear pin-----it would likely be too hard to function
properly. The whole idea behind shear pins is to let go to save other
components. You should be able to make the pin, but if it's a tapered
one,
please describe it---could be I have one.

On my farm equipment I use grade 8 bolts, they hold well and break
clean. Grade 2 and sometimes grade 5 smear at the break and are a real
dog to get out.

Chuckle!! And if the grade 8 holds and the gear doesn't, how hard and
expensive is it to change the gear(s)?

Shear pins are generally supposed to be the weak link in a
circuit-------intended to fail before expensive components do. If you've
been shearing grade 8 bolts and they're not undercut, you're one lucky man,
unless your equipment is designed around the concept. Does the
manufacturer recommend the grade 8 bolts?

Harold



Heehee... a neighbor (NOT very mechanically inclined) insisted on
using a "family" tractor (jointly owned by 2 or 3 others) to brushhog
a field around his place. As he was constantly going over boulders,
fence posts, etc., he kept shearing the pin in the driveshaft going
back to the cutter from the tractor PTO. Tired of changing out the
shearpin, he went to the hardware store, got grade 8's and went back
to work... for a little bit anyway.... BAM.... blew out the castings &
gears of the tranny and rear end. Then just left it sit for someone
else to fix. I also saw this guy remove the lugnuts from an old
pickup truck wheel and give it a jerk - watching the truck fall to the
ground because he never put a jack under it. Told my son "Stay the
hell away from that guy - he'll get you killed". sigh.... I don't
have much to do with him, or the entire family for that matter. I'm
just aware of these situations. BTW, a couple of the "other owners"
had to fix the tractor - and I haven't seen this jerk use it since..
imagine that !
Ken.

Ken Sterling (Ken Sterling) wrote in message
...
snip-----

Heehee... a neighbor (NOT very mechanically inclined) insisted on
using a "family" tractor (jointly owned by 2 or 3 others) to brushhog
a field around his place. As he was constantly going over boulders,
fence posts, etc., he kept shearing the pin in the driveshaft going
back to the cutter from the tractor PTO. Tired of changing out the
shearpin, he went to the hardware store, got grade 8's and went back
to work... for a little bit anyway.... BAM.... blew out the castings &
gears of the tranny and rear end. Then just left it sit for someone
else to fix.

Uh huh!

Exactly my point! g

Harold

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:


On my farm equipment I use grade 8 bolts, they hold well and break
clean. Grade 2 and sometimes grade 5 smear at the break and are a real
dog to get out.

Chuckle!! And if the grade 8 holds and the gear doesn't, how hard and
expensive is it to change the gear(s)?

Shear pins are generally supposed to be the weak link in a
circuit-------intended to fail before expensive components do. If you've
been shearing grade 8 bolts and they're not undercut, you're one lucky man,
unless your equipment is designed around the concept. Does the
manufacturer recommend the grade 8 bolts?

I'm using it on VERY old equipment, and the grade 8 bolt IS the weak
link; I shear one or 2 per year and nothinmg else has broken.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:


On my farm equipment I use grade 8 bolts, they hold well and break
clean. Grade 2 and sometimes grade 5 smear at the break and are a
real
dog to get out.

Chuckle!! And if the grade 8 holds and the gear doesn't, how hard and
expensive is it to change the gear(s)?

Shear pins are generally supposed to be the weak link in a
circuit-------intended to fail before expensive components do. If
you've
been shearing grade 8 bolts and they're not undercut, you're one lucky
man,
unless your equipment is designed around the concept. Does the
manufacturer recommend the grade 8 bolts?

I'm using it on VERY old equipment, and the grade 8 bolt IS the weak
link; I shear one or 2 per year and nothinmg else has broken.

Interesting, considering the tensile strength of the bolts.

Harold

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:


On my farm equipment I use grade 8 bolts, they hold well and break
clean. Grade 2 and sometimes grade 5 smear at the break and are a
real
dog to get out.

Chuckle!! And if the grade 8 holds and the gear doesn't, how hard and
expensive is it to change the gear(s)?

Shear pins are generally supposed to be the weak link in a
circuit-------intended to fail before expensive components do. If
you've
been shearing grade 8 bolts and they're not undercut, you're one lucky
man,
unless your equipment is designed around the concept. Does the
manufacturer recommend the grade 8 bolts?

I'm using it on VERY old equipment, and the grade 8 bolt IS the weak
link; I shear one or 2 per year and nothinmg else has broken.

Interesting, considering the tensile strength of the bolts.

Tensile doesn't count, only shear.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 17:38:47 -0500, Nick Hull
wrote:

In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:

"Nick Hull" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote:


On my farm equipment I use grade 8 bolts, they hold well and break
clean. Grade 2 and sometimes grade 5 smear at the break and are a
real
dog to get out.

Chuckle!! And if the grade 8 holds and the gear doesn't, how hard and
expensive is it to change the gear(s)?

Shear pins are generally supposed to be the weak link in a
circuit-------intended to fail before expensive components do. If
you've
been shearing grade 8 bolts and they're not undercut, you're one lucky
man,
unless your equipment is designed around the concept. Does the
manufacturer recommend the grade 8 bolts?

I'm using it on VERY old equipment, and the grade 8 bolt IS the weak
link; I shear one or 2 per year and nothinmg else has broken.

Interesting, considering the tensile strength of the bolts.

Tensile doesn't count, only shear.
Nick,
That's interesting, about using grade 8 bolts for shear pins. I wonder
how much different the shear strength is from grade 8 compared to
grade 5. On my old Ford 9N is an adapter on the PTO that has a ratchet
in it so the bush hog doesn't power the tractor when it's throttled
down. This device has in it a shear pin. When it broke the first time
I was surprised to see that it uses a roll pin, not a soft steel or
brass pin. Which real nice because it doesn't smear and jam up the
thing.
ERS

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:

I'm using it on VERY old equipment, and the grade 8 bolt IS the weak
link; I shear one or 2 per year and nothinmg else has broken.

Interesting, considering the tensile strength of the bolts.

Tensile doesn't count, only shear.
Nick,
That's interesting, about using grade 8 bolts for shear pins. I wonder
how much different the shear strength is from grade 8 compared to
grade 5. On my old Ford 9N is an adapter on the PTO that has a ratchet
in it so the bush hog doesn't power the tractor when it's throttled
down. This device has in it a shear pin. When it broke the first time
I was surprised to see that it uses a roll pin, not a soft steel or
brass pin. Which real nice because it doesn't smear and jam up the
thing.
ERS

The roll pin is not a shear pin. I have one of those and the roll pin
just holds the ratchet on the splined PTO shaft. If it is breaking
something is wrong. If you put the ratchet on the PTO is it snug or
will it wiggle? Any wiggle will fatigue the roll pin. The torque is
transmitted by the PTO splines. If there is too much wiggle in the
splines, you cound try using an undersize pin but it would have to be
machined because part has to be tight to hold it in place, that's why
they used a roll pin in the first place.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 07:47:52 -0500, Nick Hull
wrote:

In article ,
Eric R Snow wrote:

I'm using it on VERY old equipment, and the grade 8 bolt IS the weak
link; I shear one or 2 per year and nothinmg else has broken.

Interesting, considering the tensile strength of the bolts.

Tensile doesn't count, only shear.
Nick,
That's interesting, about using grade 8 bolts for shear pins. I wonder
how much different the shear strength is from grade 8 compared to
grade 5. On my old Ford 9N is an adapter on the PTO that has a ratchet
in it so the bush hog doesn't power the tractor when it's throttled
down. This device has in it a shear pin. When it broke the first time
I was surprised to see that it uses a roll pin, not a soft steel or
brass pin. Which real nice because it doesn't smear and jam up the
thing.
ERS

The roll pin is not a shear pin. I have one of those and the roll pin
just holds the ratchet on the splined PTO shaft. If it is breaking
something is wrong. If you put the ratchet on the PTO is it snug or
will it wiggle? Any wiggle will fatigue the roll pin. The torque is
transmitted by the PTO splines. If there is too much wiggle in the
splines, you cound try using an undersize pin but it would have to be
machined because part has to be tight to hold it in place, that's why
they used a roll pin in the first place.
Well, for not being a shear pin it did a pretty good job! The reason
for the shear was all the rocks that I hit with the bush hog. The
adapter does fit snugly on the spline from the tractor. BTW, did you
know that a bush hog, being towed by a 20 hp tractor, can mow down and
eat up 2 1/2 inch alders? I'd hate to fall off the tractor and have it
drive over me.
ERS

Eric R Snow wrote:
BTW, did you
know that a bush hog, being towed by a 20 hp tractor, can mow down and
eat up 2 1/2 inch alders? I'd hate to fall off the tractor and have it
drive over me.
ERS

One did in central PA about 25 yrs ago and it was BAD. A little place
called Oak Hall near State College.
...lew...

On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 17:11:45 -0800, Eric R Snow
wrote:


That's interesting, about using grade 8 bolts for shear pins. I wonder
how much different the shear strength is from grade 8 compared to
grade 5. On my old Ford 9N is an adapter on the PTO that has a ratchet
in it so the bush hog doesn't power the tractor when it's throttled
down. This device has in it a shear pin. When it broke the first time
I was surprised to see that it uses a roll pin, not a soft steel or
brass pin. Which real nice because it doesn't smear and jam up the
thing.

I presume that my slasher is what you Americans call a bush
hog. Mine does not have shear pins to break, it has a spring
loaded clutch. I was clearing a fire break for the local council
and hit a mostly buried Foulcan diff/rear axle. Blade stopped dead,
clutch slipping madly, until I raised the 3PL, moved forward to clear
the diff, then dropped the slasher and continued with the job. 15mm
thick blade had a big dent in it!

Alan
in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44 GMT+8
VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address