I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd
like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different
sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything
is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs,
materials etc.?

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs.
I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be
different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW,
everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs,
materials etc.?

Karl




Engrave it on the cnc, fill with lacquer stick, and apply a clear sealer.
Randy

"Karl Townsend" wrote in
anews.com:

I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC
control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and
selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The
print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle
around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it
to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which
programs, materials etc.?

Karl


Draw it up in any cad software, and take it to your favorite laser
marking shop. They can import it directly to the laser. Burn time would
probably be a few seconds, at most. The set-up charge will be more than
the burn charge.
Another option, multi-layer plastic engraving. Basically, two different
colors of plastic where you engrave through the top color to reveal the
lower color. Permanent, highly visible, and relatively cheap.




--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
| I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
| panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs.
I'd
| like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be
different
| sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW,
everything
| is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.
|
| Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
| something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs,
| materials etc.?
|
| Karl

Seems to me that Staples had something on the shelf... If not, look
into printed circuit making materials, they have a number of methods of
doing just that.

Since you're making only one, use a drawing program to create an
overlay. Any of them will let you choose fonts and letter size, and the
better ones will wrap text along a circle or arc. Add color around
groups of buttons or to highlight certain functions. Make test prints on
paper or transparency film until you get what you want and the spacing
is correct. Take your file (PDF format is best) to any prepress or print
shop and have it output on polyester label stock (might want to make two
or three for spares). Top coat the finished label with Krylon clear
spray to protect the toner. Carefully align and stick it on the metal
panel, cut out the holes with an X-acto knife, and you're done.

Karl Townsend wrote:
I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd
like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different
sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything
is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs,
materials etc.?

Karl

Karl Townsend writes:

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal?

Print the mirror image on a laser printer, make a contact print of the
toner against the metal using acetone or lacquer thinner. Cover with clear
spray lacquer or a laser transparency if subject to wear. I use this
method to label parts such as you can see here in a few examples:

http://www.truetex.com/micad.htm

Not as durable as engraving but nearly as good as silk-screening.

The best result I have had is to Draw it up in cad and then take it to
a Lamcoid engrave shop and get them to reverse engrave it (from the
back) this way there is no grooves on the clear coated lamacoid to
fill in with crud. This way you can get different fill-in colours.
e.g. Yellow around your E-stop.
Also cheap.
Al

Haven't tired these folks but looks like they could just do the whole
panel for you. Prices look reasonable.
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/

Karl Townsend wrote:

I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd
like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different
sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything
is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs,
materials etc.?

Karl

I've had good results making panel layouts in MS Publisher, printing on good
quality photo paper, adhering with double sided tape and spraying the finished
panel with krylon. The krylon waterproofs it and makes it much more durable.

It isn't as permanent as engraving or silkscreening, but for light duty use, it
was satisfactory.

Earle Rich
Mont Vernon, NH
Alva, FL

Do you know of any cad programs that use TruType fonts? One the worked on
MSDOS and used TruType would be very handy.

Hul

On 23 Jan 2005 00:26:10 GMT, the renowned Hul Tytus
wrote:

Do you know of any cad programs that use TruType fonts? One the worked on
MSDOS and used TruType would be very handy.

Hul

At least some versions of Autocad do.

I usually use Adobe Illustrator for very fancy panel designs.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

Karl Townsend wrote:
I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd
like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different
sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything
is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs,
materials etc.?

Karl




Try these guys. Back in the late 90's they did a batch of parts for me,
new faceplates for Sigma comparators. The cost per plate, (punched &
etched) was $35 (in batches of 12) and the setup fee wasn't very bad either.


http://www.mpofcinci.com/

--
Steve Walker
(remove wallet to reply)

The big problem I have found with silk screening on aluminum etc is it
wears off especially around the feedrate switches etc.
Lexan or Lamacoid is the most permanent.
Al

In article s.com,
"Karl Townsend" wrote:

I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd
like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different
sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything
is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs,
materials etc.?

If you have a 3-axis CNC, you might try laying it out in whatever CAD
you use so that you can mill it into the mounting plate - neat, tidy,
won't wear off.

When I used to make such things (control panels for plasma experiments)
we used transfer lettering (clean surface, rub on, be careful and it
makes a good job), followed with several coats of a clear sealer.

--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Karl Townsend writes:

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to
something that can be transferred to the sheet metal?

Print the mirror image on a laser printer, make a contact print of the
toner against the metal using acetone or lacquer thinner. Cover with clear
spray lacquer or a laser transparency if subject to wear. I use this
method to label parts such as you can see here in a few examples:

http://www.truetex.com/micad.htm

Not as durable as engraving but nearly as good as silk-screening.

I like the results!

Could you describe the way you make a "contact print" with the laser
printed design. Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media
and adhere to the metal?

On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 15:22:56 -0600, AlecTrician
wrote:

The big problem I have found with silk screening on aluminum etc is it
wears off especially around the feedrate switches etc.
Lexan or Lamacoid is the most permanent.
Al

Put a piece of transparent plastic sheet over it -- the self-adhesive
kind.

--RC
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.

Ken Moffett writes:

Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media
and adhere to the metal?

On paper, yes. Laser toner is lampblack fused with polystyrene under heat.
The appropriate solvent loosens the styrene from the paper and deposits it
on the metal. The trick is blotting just enough solvent to dampen through
the paper and transfer without making the toner run or smear.

Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no
solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work.

Tim Killian wrote:
Since you're making only one, use a drawing program to create an
overlay. Any of them will let you choose fonts and letter size, and the
better ones will wrap text along a circle or arc. Add color around
groups of buttons or to highlight certain functions. Make test prints on
paper or transparency film until you get what you want and the spacing
is correct. Take your file (PDF format is best) to any prepress or print
shop and have it output on polyester label stock (might want to make two
or three for spares). Top coat the finished label with Krylon clear
spray to protect the toner. Carefully align and stick it on the metal
panel, cut out the holes with an X-acto knife, and you're done.

You can buy transparent decal sheets for printers anywhere a good
selection of printing supplies are sold--Walfart has them.

Ken Grunke



Karl Townsend wrote:

I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC
control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and
selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The
print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle
around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS.

Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it
to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which
programs, materials etc.?

Karl






--
take da "ma" offa dot com fer eemayl


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On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 22:10:21 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Ken Moffett writes:

Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media
and adhere to the metal?

On paper, yes. Laser toner is lampblack fused with polystyrene under heat.
The appropriate solvent loosens the styrene from the paper and deposits it
on the metal. The trick is blotting just enough solvent to dampen through
the paper and transfer without making the toner run or smear.

Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no
solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work.

It does. I use a reverse laser printed image and a hot iron to
transfer designs for wood carving all the time.

--RC

"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.

Richard J Kinch wrote:

Ken Moffett writes:

Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media
and adhere to the metal?

On paper, yes. Laser toner is lampblack fused with polystyrene under heat.
The appropriate solvent loosens the styrene from the paper and deposits it
on the metal. The trick is blotting just enough solvent to dampen through
the paper and transfer without making the toner run or smear.

Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no
solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work.

Ok. I ve seen this done with heat for masking flat printed circuit
boards. They even sell special paper for that. I was interested in doing
it on your curved surfaces. Thanks.

writes:

Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no
solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work.

It does. I use a reverse laser printed image and a hot iron to
transfer designs for wood carving all the time.

But now I recall trying it and not succeeding. Wood has porosity that
metal doesn't.

On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 11:32:28 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

writes:

Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no
solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work.

It does. I use a reverse laser printed image and a hot iron to
transfer designs for wood carving all the time.

But now I recall trying it and not succeeding. Wood has porosity that
metal doesn't.

Porosity isn't a problem unless you're trying to transfer every tiny
detail. What _is_ a problem, and where most people have trouble, is
that the wood has to be at least locally flat so the paper can easily
make contact at every point.

I scrape the surface before I transfer and it works fine.

--RC

"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.

But now I recall trying it and not succeeding. Wood has porosity that
metal doesn't.

Porosity isn't a problem unless you're trying to transfer every tiny
detail.

OK, but I couldn't get any combination of heat and pressure to transfer
toner from paper to machined aluminum surfaces, while solvents transferred
it quite easily and durably. Just my casual experiments; I don't
understand why.

On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 00:01:18 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

But now I recall trying it and not succeeding. Wood has porosity that
metal doesn't.

Porosity isn't a problem unless you're trying to transfer every tiny
detail.

OK, but I couldn't get any combination of heat and pressure to transfer
toner from paper to machined aluminum surfaces, while solvents transferred
it quite easily and durably. Just my casual experiments; I don't
understand why.

My experience trying to transfer to metal hasn't been very good
either. That's why I was interested in your suggestion to try acetone.

--RC
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.