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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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label CNC operator panel
I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control
panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? Karl |
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"Karl Townsend" wrote in message anews.com... I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? Karl Engrave it on the cnc, fill with lacquer stick, and apply a clear sealer. Randy |
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"Karl Townsend" wrote in
anews.com: I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? Karl Draw it up in any cad software, and take it to your favorite laser marking shop. They can import it directly to the laser. Burn time would probably be a few seconds, at most. The set-up charge will be more than the burn charge. Another option, multi-layer plastic engraving. Basically, two different colors of plastic where you engrave through the top color to reveal the lower color. Permanent, highly visible, and relatively cheap. -- Anthony You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make better idiots. Remove sp to reply via email |
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"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com... | I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control | panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd | like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different | sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything | is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. | | Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to | something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, | materials etc.? | | Karl Seems to me that Staples had something on the shelf... If not, look into printed circuit making materials, they have a number of methods of doing just that. |
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Since you're making only one, use a drawing program to create an
overlay. Any of them will let you choose fonts and letter size, and the better ones will wrap text along a circle or arc. Add color around groups of buttons or to highlight certain functions. Make test prints on paper or transparency film until you get what you want and the spacing is correct. Take your file (PDF format is best) to any prepress or print shop and have it output on polyester label stock (might want to make two or three for spares). Top coat the finished label with Krylon clear spray to protect the toner. Carefully align and stick it on the metal panel, cut out the holes with an X-acto knife, and you're done. Karl Townsend wrote: I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? Karl |
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Do you know of any cad programs that use TruType fonts? One the worked on
MSDOS and used TruType would be very handy. Hul |
#7
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On 23 Jan 2005 00:26:10 GMT, the renowned Hul Tytus
wrote: Do you know of any cad programs that use TruType fonts? One the worked on MSDOS and used TruType would be very handy. Hul At least some versions of Autocad do. I usually use Adobe Illustrator for very fancy panel designs. Best regards, Spehro Pefhany -- "it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com |
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Tim Killian wrote:
Since you're making only one, use a drawing program to create an overlay. Any of them will let you choose fonts and letter size, and the better ones will wrap text along a circle or arc. Add color around groups of buttons or to highlight certain functions. Make test prints on paper or transparency film until you get what you want and the spacing is correct. Take your file (PDF format is best) to any prepress or print shop and have it output on polyester label stock (might want to make two or three for spares). Top coat the finished label with Krylon clear spray to protect the toner. Carefully align and stick it on the metal panel, cut out the holes with an X-acto knife, and you're done. You can buy transparent decal sheets for printers anywhere a good selection of printing supplies are sold--Walfart has them. Ken Grunke Karl Townsend wrote: I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? Karl -- take da "ma" offa dot com fer eemayl ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#9
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Karl Townsend writes:
Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Print the mirror image on a laser printer, make a contact print of the toner against the metal using acetone or lacquer thinner. Cover with clear spray lacquer or a laser transparency if subject to wear. I use this method to label parts such as you can see here in a few examples: http://www.truetex.com/micad.htm Not as durable as engraving but nearly as good as silk-screening. |
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Richard J Kinch wrote:
Karl Townsend writes: Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Print the mirror image on a laser printer, make a contact print of the toner against the metal using acetone or lacquer thinner. Cover with clear spray lacquer or a laser transparency if subject to wear. I use this method to label parts such as you can see here in a few examples: http://www.truetex.com/micad.htm Not as durable as engraving but nearly as good as silk-screening. I like the results! Could you describe the way you make a "contact print" with the laser printed design. Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media and adhere to the metal? |
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Ken Moffett writes:
Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media and adhere to the metal? On paper, yes. Laser toner is lampblack fused with polystyrene under heat. The appropriate solvent loosens the styrene from the paper and deposits it on the metal. The trick is blotting just enough solvent to dampen through the paper and transfer without making the toner run or smear. Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work. |
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On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 22:10:21 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote: Ken Moffett writes: Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media and adhere to the metal? On paper, yes. Laser toner is lampblack fused with polystyrene under heat. The appropriate solvent loosens the styrene from the paper and deposits it on the metal. The trick is blotting just enough solvent to dampen through the paper and transfer without making the toner run or smear. Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work. It does. I use a reverse laser printed image and a hot iron to transfer designs for wood carving all the time. --RC "Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells 'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets fly with a club. -- John W. Cambell Jr. |
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writes:
Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work. It does. I use a reverse laser printed image and a hot iron to transfer designs for wood carving all the time. But now I recall trying it and not succeeding. Wood has porosity that metal doesn't. |
#14
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Richard J Kinch wrote:
Ken Moffett writes: Is it on paper? How does it release from the print media and adhere to the metal? On paper, yes. Laser toner is lampblack fused with polystyrene under heat. The appropriate solvent loosens the styrene from the paper and deposits it on the metal. The trick is blotting just enough solvent to dampen through the paper and transfer without making the toner run or smear. Come to think of it, this might work with just heat and pressure, no solvents. That's how the laser printer fusers work. Ok. I ve seen this done with heat for masking flat printed circuit boards. They even sell special paper for that. I was interested in doing it on your curved surfaces. Thanks. |
#15
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The best result I have had is to Draw it up in cad and then take it to
a Lamcoid engrave shop and get them to reverse engrave it (from the back) this way there is no grooves on the clear coated lamacoid to fill in with crud. This way you can get different fill-in colours. e.g. Yellow around your E-stop. Also cheap. Al |
#16
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I've had good results making panel layouts in MS Publisher, printing on good
quality photo paper, adhering with double sided tape and spraying the finished panel with krylon. The krylon waterproofs it and makes it much more durable. It isn't as permanent as engraving or silkscreening, but for light duty use, it was satisfactory. Earle Rich Mont Vernon, NH Alva, FL |
#17
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Haven't tired these folks but looks like they could just do the whole
panel for you. Prices look reasonable. http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ Karl Townsend wrote: I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? Karl |
#18
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The big problem I have found with silk screening on aluminum etc is it
wears off especially around the feedrate switches etc. Lexan or Lamacoid is the most permanent. Al |
#19
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On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 15:22:56 -0600, AlecTrician
wrote: The big problem I have found with silk screening on aluminum etc is it wears off especially around the feedrate switches etc. Lexan or Lamacoid is the most permanent. Al Put a piece of transparent plastic sheet over it -- the self-adhesive kind. --RC "Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells 'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets fly with a club. -- John W. Cambell Jr. |
#20
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Karl Townsend wrote:
I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? Karl Try these guys. Back in the late 90's they did a batch of parts for me, new faceplates for Sigma comparators. The cost per plate, (punched & etched) was $35 (in batches of 12) and the setup fee wasn't very bad either. http://www.mpofcinci.com/ -- Steve Walker (remove wallet to reply) |
#21
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In article s.com,
"Karl Townsend" wrote: I've canalized an old CNC control and built a new operator's CNC control panel. It has several push buttons, toggles switches and selector knobs. I'd like to do a professional job labeling these. The print has to be different sizes and some of it has to follow a circle around a knob. FWIW, everything is mounted on a sheet of 304 SS. Is there any way to lay this all out in some pc program and print it to something that can be transferred to the sheet metal? Which programs, materials etc.? If you have a 3-axis CNC, you might try laying it out in whatever CAD you use so that you can mill it into the mounting plate - neat, tidy, won't wear off. When I used to make such things (control panels for plasma experiments) we used transfer lettering (clean surface, rub on, be careful and it makes a good job), followed with several coats of a clear sealer. -- Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by |
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