I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says
its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare. It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick. It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch. Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.

On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

Hmm ... that wood blade might be a good choice when cutting
aluminum which is at least three teeth thick.

I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says
its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

Sounds like you got a bargain.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

The 3/4" should be good enough. I would go for the 1" if I were
cutting rather thick steel purely on straight lines.

1/2" might even do -- but there is something to be said for
using the same blade stock for both the horizontal and the vertical --
*if* you have a blade welder. (Maybe the Grizzly came with one in the
column?) Then just buy spools of blade stock and you can make up blades
for both saws.

Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare.

Or -- as I mentioned above -- a roll of stock, if you have a
blade welder.

It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick.

For that -- 6 TPI would do.

It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.

In that case -- go up to about 12 TPI -- so you always have at
least three teeth in the workpiece.

Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

A stomp shear is nice for that -- but if you are using a
circular saw, you don't have one. (And the bench-mount ones are not
wide enough to cut the typical 4'x8' sheet metal stock.)

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.

For most of what you are doing (other than the sheet aluminum,
whose thickness you did not mention) the 12-14 TIP should do. The 10-12
TPI might be marginal on the 1/4" thick stock -- and you really do want
a finer tooth blade for the sheet aluminum, which I'm guessing is about
16 gauge or so.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:
......
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick
to 2
inch thick.

For that -- 6 TPI would do.

I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.

On 8/14/2019 8:39 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:
.....
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick
to 2
inch thick.
For that -- 6 TPI would do.
I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.



Â* Mine wears a 10/14 bimetal about 95% of the time . I do have an 18
for thin stock . I have yet to use it for wood ... isn't that what
chainsaws are for ? Mine have been getting quite a workout lately
stocking up firewood .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 8/14/2019 8:39 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:
.....
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2"
thick
to 2
inch thick.
For that -- 6 TPI would do.
I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut
off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.



Mine wears a 10/14 bimetal about 95% of the time . I do have an 18
for thin stock . I have yet to use it for wood ... isn't that what
chainsaws are for ? Mine have been getting quite a workout lately
stocking up firewood .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !


These were 6x6 PT timbers for a retaining wall and I wanted smooth and
square cuts at an exposed outside corner.

I've used a chainsaw to square large logs and cut joint notches and
plane the tops of log roof beams for pole sheds, so I know what I can
and can't do. Chainsawing isn't for exposed surfaces that could snag
clothing.

To cut long heavy stock like that I balance it across the bandsaw
table and set adjustable support(s) under it, then slide the stock to
the cut position. If the stock is too heavy to lift I suspend it from
a portable hoist and use a balanced 2x4 etc as the guide to set the
height so the cut will be square.

That was good enough to cut 4" square steel tube to ~16' for columns.
I made and welded on steel end plates to attach a 20' W10 x 33 beam,
which I hoisted into place. An engineer designed the job, not me, but
I was able to fab and erect it. "A man's got to know his limitations",
and that job was close to mine.

I've wanted a small top-handle arborist chainsaw for a long time but
couldn't justify the cost of a Stihl, Husky or Echo. This is on order,
hope it's as decent as the reviews suggest. Amazon's price jumped
after I ordered it.
https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Jon.../dp/B07NZ4JTDT

On 8/15/2019 7:59 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 8/14/2019 8:39 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:
.....
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2"
thick
to 2
inch thick.
For that -- 6 TPI would do.
I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut
off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.


Mine wears a 10/14 bimetal about 95% of the time . I do have an 18
for thin stock . I have yet to use it for wood ... isn't that what
chainsaws are for ? Mine have been getting quite a workout lately
stocking up firewood .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

These were 6x6 PT timbers for a retaining wall and I wanted smooth and
square cuts at an exposed outside corner.

I've used a chainsaw to square large logs and cut joint notches and
plane the tops of log roof beams for pole sheds, so I know what I can
and can't do. Chainsawing isn't for exposed surfaces that could snag
clothing.

To cut long heavy stock like that I balance it across the bandsaw
table and set adjustable support(s) under it, then slide the stock to
the cut position. If the stock is too heavy to lift I suspend it from
a portable hoist and use a balanced 2x4 etc as the guide to set the
height so the cut will be square.

That was good enough to cut 4" square steel tube to ~16' for columns.
I made and welded on steel end plates to attach a 20' W10 x 33 beam,
which I hoisted into place. An engineer designed the job, not me, but
I was able to fab and erect it. "A man's got to know his limitations",
and that job was close to mine.

I've wanted a small top-handle arborist chainsaw for a long time but
couldn't justify the cost of a Stihl, Husky or Echo. This is on order,
hope it's as decent as the reviews suggest. Amazon's price jumped
after I ordered it.
https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Jon.../dp/B07NZ4JTDT



Â* I have 3 older Homelite power heads that all have top throttle
triggers in addition to the "normal" rear position throttle . I only use
one right now and it works great . One of the others runs , the 3rd is
just for spares . My main saw is a Stihl model 025 that was free to me
.... though I have since installed a new motor and consumables . The only
saw I actually paid for is a Poulan 18" and it's the most finicky of all .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On Thu, 15 Aug 2019 08:59:55 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:



I've wanted a small top-handle arborist chainsaw for a long time but
couldn't justify the cost of a Stihl, Husky or Echo. This is on order,
hope it's as decent as the reviews suggest. Amazon's price jumped
after I ordered it.
https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Jon.../dp/B07NZ4JTDT


I recently went looking for a good quality light saw, not necessarily
a top-handle. There's not much available between very cheap and very
expensive. I have a pro Stihl that I bought 30+ years ago when we
built our house, one of the best purchases I've ever made, but it
seems to get a little heavier every year. I lucked into a nice Echo
top-handle on Craigslist for $45. Much nicer when the full-size saw is
not necessary.

--
Ned Simmons

On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says
its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare. It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick. It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch. Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.


Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the
time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw. A 5/8 and
a 10/14. I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want
carbon steel blades. I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them
pretty useless for me. The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a
little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my
pocket money on the saw.

On 2019-08-16, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

[ ... ]

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

[ ... ]

Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the
time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw. A 5/8 and
a 10/14. I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want
carbon steel blades. I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them
pretty useless for me. The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a
little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my
pocket money on the saw.

Isn't the blade welder capable of bi-metal blades? Yes, you
need more current for bi-metal, but ... I use mine on bi-metal blades,
even though it is not specified for them I use the 5/8" setting for 1/2"
bi-metal blades -- which are the largest that my 4x6 horizontal/vertical
bandsaw can handle anyway. If your welder specifies 1" blades within
its range, use that setting for 3/4" or 5/8".

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 8/16/2019 7:34 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2019-08-16, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

[ ... ]

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like
the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there
a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

[ ... ]

Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the
time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw. A 5/8 and
a 10/14. I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want
carbon steel blades. I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them
pretty useless for me. The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a
little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my
pocket money on the saw.

Isn't the blade welder capable of bi-metal blades? Yes, you
need more current for bi-metal, but ... I use mine on bi-metal blades,
even though it is not specified for them I use the 5/8" setting for 1/2"
bi-metal blades -- which are the largest that my 4x6 horizontal/vertical
bandsaw can handle anyway. If your welder specifies 1" blades within
its range, use that setting for 3/4" or 5/8".

Good Luck,
DoN.



I have to weld blades manually, and then anneal with a torch. I don't
think the new saw comes with a blade welder. Eventually I'll pick one
up though. I've silver brazed, but have had mixed luck. Some seem to
hold, and some don't. A little blade holding jig I made some time back
helped a lot. I wasn't concerned with being able to weld them though. I
was concerned with having only lunch money in my pocket when I looked at
bimetal coil stock pricing. LOL. Its not out. Its just out for a
little while after spending all my play money on the saw. Also maybe
having 250' of coil stock of a TPI that might turn out to not be ideal
for my use.

On 8/16/2019 11:10 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the listing says
its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.Â* I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.Â* Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade.Â* I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch.Â* I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare.Â* It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick.Â* It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â* Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003.Â* Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.


Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the
time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw.Â* A 5/8 and
a 10/14.Â* I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want
carbon steel blades.Â* I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them
pretty useless for me.Â* The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a
little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my
pocket money on the saw.




Saw arrives on the 22nd. Blades on the 26th. HA!

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
...
I've wanted a small top-handle arborist chainsaw for a long time but
couldn't justify the cost of a Stihl, Husky or Echo. This is on
order, hope it's as decent as the reviews suggest. Amazon's price
jumped after I ordered it.
https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Jon.../dp/B07NZ4JTDT


So far so good. It's light, balanced and cuts well without grabbing
too much on small stuff. I wanted it to cut up kindling-sized wood,
fallen branches and sawmill scrap, that is too big for a lopper and
jams my larger chainsaws. I cut on sawbucks so there's an upright post
between the chainsaw and my other hand holding and feeding the wood.

The housing is all plastic that doesn't impress me as tough enough to
bounce around in a truck bed. The screws thread directly into the
plastic and two were stripped so I replaced them with larger #8s.
Even Huztl doesn't offer parts for it:
https://www.huztl.net/Search-joncutter+parts.html

On 8/18/2019 9:09 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/16/2019 11:10 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
Â* variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to
only
Â* come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
Â* cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
Â* bandsaw.)
Â*
Â* I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the listing
says
Â* its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to see they
Â* sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug
into
Â* a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and home shop
people saw
Â* "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.
Â*
Â* I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like
the way
Â* the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
Â* those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
Â* inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.Â* I'm kinda
Â* looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.Â* Is there
a big
Â* difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade.Â* I
Â* suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't
practical
Â* to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost difference is only about $10-15
dollars
Â* depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of
beer or
Â* a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.
Â*
Â* Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
Â* fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
Â* will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
Â* severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops
aluminum.
Â* Looks like about 12 pitch.Â* I can't recall, but it might be variable
Â* pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want to have a bunch of
Â* different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one spare that will
allow me
Â* to keep going if I break one while I order another spare.Â* It will get
Â* used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick
to 2
Â* inch thick.Â* It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
Â* from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â* Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
Â* aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003.Â* Now I usually cut those with a
Â* circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.
Â*
Â* I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
Â* what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.


Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of
the time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw.Â* A
5/8 and a 10/14.Â* I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't
want carbon steel blades.Â* I cut just enough medium hard steel to make
them pretty useless for me.Â* The coils of decent quality bimetal were
just a little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all
my pocket money on the saw.




Saw arrives on the 22nd.Â* Blades on the 26th.Â* HA!


Double Ha! Blades came early.

On 8/21/2019 2:26 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/18/2019 9:09 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/16/2019 11:10 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
Â* variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to
only
Â* come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for
metal
Â* cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting
upright
Â* bandsaw.)
Â*
Â* I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the
listing says
Â* its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to see they
Â* sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug
into
Â* a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and home shop
people saw
Â* "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.
Â*
Â* I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like
the way
Â* the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
Â* those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
Â* inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.Â* I'm
kinda
Â* looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.Â* Is there
a big
Â* difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade.Â* I
Â* suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't
practical
Â* to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost difference is only about $10-15
dollars
Â* depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of
beer or
Â* a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.
Â*
Â* Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do
just
Â* fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
Â* will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
Â* severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops
aluminum.
Â* Looks like about 12 pitch.Â* I can't recall, but it might be variable
Â* pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want to have a bunch of
Â* different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one spare that will
allow me
Â* to keep going if I break one while I order another spare.Â* It will
get
Â* used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick
to 2
Â* inch thick.Â* It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
Â* from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â* Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
Â* aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003.Â* Now I usually cut those
with a
Â* circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.
Â*
Â* I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since
that's
Â* what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my
mind.


Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of
the time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw.Â* A
5/8 and a 10/14.Â* I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just
don't want carbon steel blades.Â* I cut just enough medium hard steel
to make them pretty useless for me.Â* The coils of decent quality
bimetal were just a little more than I wanted to spend right now
after spending all my pocket money on the saw.




Saw arrives on the 22nd.Â* Blades on the 26th.Â* HA!


Double Ha!Â* Blades came early.




First off. I'm just plain getting tired of trucking companies. Last
year when their was a truck and driver shortage service and attitude
seemed to devolve a little, but this year the market is reversed. There
are fewer loads for the trucks and drivers and service in many cases is
worse than last year. Don't get me wrong. I have dealt with a few
drivers who have been top notch professionals the last couple years, but
the rest seem to get worse from year to year. Drivers, dispatchers, and
companies.

So the trucking company notified the vendor of my saw they couldn't
reach me. My cell phone is always on, and if for some reason it doesn't
ring my voice mail works just fine. It took two calls to the main
company who claims its not a local terminal company who is doing final
delivery, but when they transferred me through I recognized the voice as
a pretty crummy low price local delivery dispatcher. Push comes to
shove my saw MIGHT arrive after hours today instead of yesterday. I
asked enough question though to find out there was never a chance in
hell they were going to deliver on time though.

So the saw blades arrived early and the saw is coming late.

Now to move the wood only bandsaw from the shop to the garage.

On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the listing says
its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.Â* I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.Â* Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade.Â* I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch.Â* I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare.Â* It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick.Â* It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â* Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003.Â* Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.


Well it finally arrived a day late while the blades arrived several days
early.

First impressions are good. All the sheet metal is heavier than I
expected and much heavier than my wood only vertical saw. The saw itself
is a lot heavier. I will not be dead lifting it onto the stand. One
thing in the version of the manual I found online that concerned me is
that it appeared to have friction block type blade guides. My wood
cutting bandsaw has friction block and they work fine. Particularly
since I changed them out for "Cool Blocks" (tm), but both of my
horizontal metal cutting saws have bearing roller guides. One of the
first things I noticed when I pried the saw out of the Styrofoam packing
(more on that in a minute) is that top and bottom had decent size
bearing roller blade guides. Making sure it wasn't a very recent upgrade
I opened the manual that actually came with the saw and it shows the
bearing roller guides. It could be another reason the saw was on sale.
Another item that represented the saw as less than it actually was.

About that Styrofoam packing. Its a very thick excellent sandwich foam
custom molded for the saw. Did I say thick. The box itself looked like
it had been burst partly open and retaped in transit. The box was
damaged on two sides and the whole box was "bent" a foot from the end
and the end dipped more than an inch hanging off the pallet. I have
fully unpacked and unwrapped the saw, and the stand. I went out of my
way looking for any signs of damaged from bent sheet metal to a door
that might not open or close perfectly. There are still parts (table,
fence, trunnion, wheel, etc) embedded in the packing foam, but I could
find zero hints of damage despite the obvious abuse the packaging
received in transit.

I have a lot of work to do so the saw might just sit where it is for a
couple days, but I'll let you know how it does ripping aluminum and
steel soon enough.

The motor is a little lighter than I would have liked at 1.25 HP
according to the data plate, but it is a 4 pole motor so it should still
have decent torque at modest RPM.

On 23/08/2019 21:21, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to
only come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for
metal cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting
upright bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the listing
says its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to see
they sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to
plug into a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and home
shop people saw "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like the
way the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just
get those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to
1 inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.Â* I'm
kinda looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.Â* Is
there a big difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch
wide blade.Â* I suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff
that isn't practical to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost difference is
only about $10-15 dollars depending on the source, but still $10 is a
premium six pack of beer or a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye
for after work.

Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do
just fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time,
but it will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of
course it severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it
chops aluminum. Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it
might be variable pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want
to have a bunch of different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one
spare that will allow me to keep going if I break one while I order
another spare.Â* It will get used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075
aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2 inch thick.Â* It will occasionally need
to cut some 4140HT or some A36 from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â* Rarely I
may need to cut some pieces of aluminum sheet in either 5052 or
3003.Â* Now I usually cut those with a circular saw on the wood deck
of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since
that's what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing
my mind.


Well it finally arrived a day late while the blades arrived several
days early.

First impressions are good. All the sheet metal is heavier than I
expected and much heavier than my wood only vertical saw. The saw
itself is a lot heavier. I will not be dead lifting it onto the stand.
One thing in the version of the manual I found online that concerned
me is that it appeared to have friction block type blade guides. My
wood cutting bandsaw has friction block and they work fine.
Particularly since I changed them out for "Cool Blocks" (tm), but both
of my horizontal metal cutting saws have bearing roller guides. One of
the first things I noticed when I pried the saw out of the Styrofoam
packing (more on that in a minute) is that top and bottom had decent
size bearing roller blade guides. Making sure it wasn't a very recent
upgrade I opened the manual that actually came with the saw and it
shows the bearing roller guides. It could be another reason the saw
was on sale. Another item that represented the saw as less than it
actually was.

About that Styrofoam packing. Its a very thick excellent sandwich foam
custom molded for the saw. Did I say thick. The box itself looked like
it had been burst partly open and retaped in transit. The box was
damaged on two sides and the whole box was "bent" a foot from the end
and the end dipped more than an inch hanging off the pallet. I have
fully unpacked and unwrapped the saw, and the stand. I went out of my
way looking for any signs of damaged from bent sheet metal to a door
that might not open or close perfectly. There are still parts (table,
fence, trunnion, wheel, etc) embedded in the packing foam, but I could
find zero hints of damage despite the obvious abuse the packaging
received in transit.

I have a lot of work to do so the saw might just sit where it is for a
couple days, but I'll let you know how it does ripping aluminum and
steel soon enough.

The motor is a little lighter than I would have liked at 1.25 HP
according to the data plate, but it is a 4 pole motor so it should
still have decent torque at modest RPM.

Good to hear it arrived OK, I saw the blades guides were shown as pads
and thought bearings would have been better so good to hear you've got
the improved version. I have seen loads on delivery trucks which were
already smashed but apparently they have to deliver the item so the
receiving person can refuse to accept it due to damage in transit. I was
recently given a British made Startrite Bandit 12" vertical bandsaw and
base for free, I couldn't turn it down as too nice a machine so have had
to reorganise the workshop a bit to fit it in. 3 phase but I have a
converter which runs my BP and Harrison M300 lathe so the Startrite is a
small load at IIRC 3/4hp. I know 2 people that have offered to buy it if
I don't want it, small chance.

On Fri, 23 Aug 2019 21:39:56 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

On 23/08/2019 21:21, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.* Of course it seems to
only come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for
metal cutting.* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting
upright bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale.* The title of the listing
says its 3 phase.* You have to read down into the description to see
they sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to
plug into a single phase outlet.* I think most small shop and home
shop people saw "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.* I like the
way the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just
get those for the upright.* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to
1 inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.* I'm
kinda looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.* Is
there a big difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch
wide blade.* I suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff
that isn't practical to fit in the horizontal.* Cost difference is
only about $10-15 dollars depending on the source, but still $10 is a
premium six pack of beer or a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye
for after work.

Then there is pitch.* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do
just fine for most things.* I use it on aluminum most of the time,
but it will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of
course it severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it
chops aluminum. Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it
might be variable pitch 12/14 or something like that.* I don't want
to have a bunch of different blades hanging on the wall.* Just one
spare that will allow me to keep going if I break one while I order
another spare.* It will get used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075
aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2 inch thick.* It will occasionally need
to cut some 4140HT or some A36 from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.* Rarely I
may need to cut some pieces of aluminum sheet in either 5052 or
3003.* Now I usually cut those with a circular saw on the wood deck
of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since
that's what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing
my mind.


Well it finally arrived a day late while the blades arrived several
days early.

First impressions are good. All the sheet metal is heavier than I
expected and much heavier than my wood only vertical saw. The saw
itself is a lot heavier. I will not be dead lifting it onto the stand.
One thing in the version of the manual I found online that concerned
me is that it appeared to have friction block type blade guides. My
wood cutting bandsaw has friction block and they work fine.
Particularly since I changed them out for "Cool Blocks" (tm), but both
of my horizontal metal cutting saws have bearing roller guides. One of
the first things I noticed when I pried the saw out of the Styrofoam
packing (more on that in a minute) is that top and bottom had decent
size bearing roller blade guides. Making sure it wasn't a very recent
upgrade I opened the manual that actually came with the saw and it
shows the bearing roller guides. It could be another reason the saw
was on sale. Another item that represented the saw as less than it
actually was.

About that Styrofoam packing. Its a very thick excellent sandwich foam
custom molded for the saw. Did I say thick. The box itself looked like
it had been burst partly open and retaped in transit. The box was
damaged on two sides and the whole box was "bent" a foot from the end
and the end dipped more than an inch hanging off the pallet. I have
fully unpacked and unwrapped the saw, and the stand. I went out of my
way looking for any signs of damaged from bent sheet metal to a door
that might not open or close perfectly. There are still parts (table,
fence, trunnion, wheel, etc) embedded in the packing foam, but I could
find zero hints of damage despite the obvious abuse the packaging
received in transit.

I have a lot of work to do so the saw might just sit where it is for a
couple days, but I'll let you know how it does ripping aluminum and
steel soon enough.

The motor is a little lighter than I would have liked at 1.25 HP
according to the data plate, but it is a 4 pole motor so it should
still have decent torque at modest RPM.

Good to hear it arrived OK, I saw the blades guides were shown as pads
and thought bearings would have been better so good to hear you've got
the improved version. I have seen loads on delivery trucks which were
already smashed but apparently they have to deliver the item so the
receiving person can refuse to accept it due to damage in transit. I was
recently given a British made Startrite Bandit 12" vertical bandsaw and
base for free, I couldn't turn it down as too nice a machine so have had
to reorganise the workshop a bit to fit it in. 3 phase but I have a
converter which runs my BP and Harrison M300 lathe so the Startrite is a
small load at IIRC 3/4hp. I know 2 people that have offered to buy it if
I don't want it, small chance.
Couple years back, I replaced a thirty year old chest freezer with an
upright model. The selling firm quoted "threshlod delivery" i.e in the
door. When it arrived, the driver asked me to have a look as it
appeared to have some waviness in the side panels. I couldn't see any
actual dents or any indication that it might have been hit by
anything, so I accepted delivery and jokingly suggested that it was
too bad they didn't haul the old freezer away, to which the driver
laughed and said no, but they could get it out of the basement for me
easy enough.
I had been considering a twenty dollar offer to get the new freezer
down the one flight so was more than happy to buy the three guys each
a five dollar coffee - had it been their last delivery I would have
offered beer as I have done with roofing crews in the past.

On 8/23/2019 1:21 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to
only come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for
metal cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting
upright bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the listing
says its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to see
they sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to
plug into a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and home
shop people saw "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like the
way the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just
get those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to
1 inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.Â* I'm
kinda looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.Â* Is
there a big difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide
blade.Â* I suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that
isn't practical to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost difference is only
about $10-15 dollars depending on the source, but still $10 is a
premium six pack of beer or a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye
for after work.

Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops
aluminum. Looks like about 12 pitch.Â* I can't recall, but it might be
variable pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want to have a
bunch of different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one spare that
will allow me to keep going if I break one while I order another
spare.Â* It will get used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum
from 1/2" thick to 2 inch thick.Â* It will occasionally need to cut
some 4140HT or some A36 from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â* Rarely I may
need to cut some pieces of aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003.Â* Now
I usually cut those with a circular saw on the wood deck of my
equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.


Well it finally arrived a day late while the blades arrived several days
early.

First impressions are good. All the sheet metal is heavier than I
expected and much heavier than my wood only vertical saw. The saw itself
is a lot heavier. I will not be dead lifting it onto the stand. One
thing in the version of the manual I found online that concerned me is
that it appeared to have friction block type blade guides. My wood
cutting bandsaw has friction block and they work fine. Particularly
since I changed them out for "Cool Blocks" (tm), but both of my
horizontal metal cutting saws have bearing roller guides. One of the
first things I noticed when I pried the saw out of the Styrofoam packing
(more on that in a minute) is that top and bottom had decent size
bearing roller blade guides. Making sure it wasn't a very recent upgrade
I opened the manual that actually came with the saw and it shows the
bearing roller guides. It could be another reason the saw was on sale.
Another item that represented the saw as less than it actually was.

About that Styrofoam packing. Its a very thick excellent sandwich foam
custom molded for the saw. Did I say thick. The box itself looked like
it had been burst partly open and retaped in transit. The box was
damaged on two sides and the whole box was "bent" a foot from the end
and the end dipped more than an inch hanging off the pallet. I have
fully unpacked and unwrapped the saw, and the stand. I went out of my
way looking for any signs of damaged from bent sheet metal to a door
that might not open or close perfectly. There are still parts (table,
fence, trunnion, wheel, etc) embedded in the packing foam, but I could
find zero hints of damage despite the obvious abuse the packaging
received in transit.

I have a lot of work to do so the saw might just sit where it is for a
couple days, but I'll let you know how it does ripping aluminum and
steel soon enough.

The motor is a little lighter than I would have liked at 1.25 HP
according to the data plate, but it is a 4 pole motor so it should still
have decent torque at modest RPM.

I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem pretty
quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with the bolt holes
in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They are off by a lot. A
call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not particularly helpful.

"Oh, tech support has to talk with you and will ask you to make
measurements. I can start a ticket, but then you will have to wait on
them to get back to you, or you can call back on Monday and we can
transfer you directly over to them. "

What I heard was, "Customer service is only here on the weekend to make
people 'think' you might get some service. Not to actually do anything."
LOL.

What somebody else, might say is, "Oh that's awesome. Its totally not
right out of the box, but they are fantastic because they will make it
right eventually." LOL.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem
pretty quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with the
bolt holes in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They are
off by a lot. A call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not
particularly helpful.
...

The answer:
https://www.ecklers.com/assets/eam/i...u/64-44825.jpg

On 24/08/2019 21:18, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem
pretty quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with the
bolt holes in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They are
off by a lot. A call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not
particularly helpful.
...
The answer:
https://www.ecklers.com/assets/eam/i...u/64-44825.jpg


Other useful fasteners http://www.metal-arts.co.uk/temp/richco.jpg

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
On 24/08/2019 21:18, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem
pretty quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with
the
bolt holes in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They
are
off by a lot. A call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not
particularly helpful.
...
The answer:
https://www.ecklers.com/assets/eam/i...u/64-44825.jpg

It's a real part:
https://www.ecklers.com/1955-1957-fo...6-44825-1.html



Other useful fasteners http://www.metal-arts.co.uk/temp/richco.jpg


That's the drawing I was searching for, which I first saw as a
draftsman in the mid 70's.

http://www.projectcartoon.com/cartoon/46980

On Sat, 24 Aug 2019 18:49:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
On 24/08/2019 21:18, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem
pretty quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with
the
bolt holes in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They
are
off by a lot. A call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not
particularly helpful.
...
The answer:
https://www.ecklers.com/assets/eam/i...u/64-44825.jpg

It's a real part:
https://www.ecklers.com/1955-1957-fo...6-44825-1.html

Ford also used something like that on truck I-beam suspension to
adjust camber and Chebby used similar bolts in the upper control arms
to set both caster and camber. Boy, those are old memories...


Other useful fasteners http://www.metal-arts.co.uk/temp/richco.jpg


That's the drawing I was searching for, which I first saw as a
draftsman in the mid 70's.

http://www.projectcartoon.com/cartoon/46980

I love it! I'd seen a pared down version long ago and enjoyed it,
too.

--
If more sane people were armed,
crazy people would get off fewer shots.
Support the 2nd Amendment

On Sat, 24 Aug 2019 18:49:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

That's the drawing I was searching for, which I first saw as a
draftsman in the mid 70's.

http://www.projectcartoon.com/cartoon/46980

I remember a version of that from the pre-Internet days. Ah, still
have it! http://alt-config.net/swingSM.jpg Change the "SM" to "LG"
if you want a full size version.

Another one I no longer have the original of, but actually redrew in
drafting class back in the early 80s. Never got around to adding the
caption (sucked at lettering!) Think it was something like "Wood
Stove for Sale" then "Guaranteed to burn for four hours"
http://alt-config.net/woodstove.jpg
--
William

On Sun, 25 Aug 2019 08:02:02 -0400
William Bagwell wrote:

On Sat, 24 Aug 2019 18:49:07 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

That's the drawing I was searching for, which I first saw as a
draftsman in the mid 70's.

http://www.projectcartoon.com/cartoon/46980

I remember a version of that from the pre-Internet days. Ah, still
have it! http://alt-config.net/swingSM.jpg Change the "SM" to "LG"
if you want a full size version.

Another one I no longer have the original of, but actually redrew in
drafting class back in the early 80s. Never got around to adding the
caption (sucked at lettering!) Think it was something like "Wood
Stove for Sale" then "Guaranteed to burn for four hours"
http://alt-config.net/woodstove.jpg

Too funny. I remember seeing both of those many years ago. Most likely
on a piece of letter size copy paper taped up in the office area where I
was servicing equipment

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 24/08/2019 23:49, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"David Billington" wrote in message
...
On 24/08/2019 21:18, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem
pretty quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with
the
bolt holes in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They
are
off by a lot. A call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not
particularly helpful.
...
The answer:
https://www.ecklers.com/assets/eam/i...u/64-44825.jpg
It's a real part:
https://www.ecklers.com/1955-1957-fo...6-44825-1.html


Other useful fasteners http://www.metal-arts.co.uk/temp/richco.jpg

That's the drawing I was searching for, which I first saw as a
draftsman in the mid 70's.

http://www.projectcartoon.com/cartoon/46980


I like that. One I can't find at the moment which I have copy of
somewhere is of a supplier on the phone to a customer with the customer
saying "If I wanted it tomorrow I'd order it tomorrow".

On Wed, 14 Aug 2019 15:09:29 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says
its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare. It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick. It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch. Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.

Always remember...3 teeth in the cut. If you are cutting 1" stock..you
can easily use 6tpi blades. if you are cutting .25" stock...12-14 is
better.

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On 8/24/2019 12:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/23/2019 1:21 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to
only come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for
metal cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting
upright bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the listing
says its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to see
they sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to
plug into a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and home
shop people saw "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like the
way the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just
get those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to
1 inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it.Â* I'm
kinda looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak.Â* Is
there a big difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch
wide blade.Â* I suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff
that isn't practical to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost difference is
only about $10-15 dollars depending on the source, but still $10 is a
premium six pack of beer or a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye
for after work.

Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do
just fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time,
but it will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of
course it severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it
chops aluminum. Looks like about 12 pitch.Â* I can't recall, but it
might be variable pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want
to have a bunch of different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one
spare that will allow me to keep going if I break one while I order
another spare.Â* It will get used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075
aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2 inch thick.Â* It will occasionally need
to cut some 4140HT or some A36 from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â* Rarely I
may need to cut some pieces of aluminum sheet in either 5052 or
3003.Â* Now I usually cut those with a circular saw on the wood deck
of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since
that's what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing
my mind.


Well it finally arrived a day late while the blades arrived several
days early.

First impressions are good. All the sheet metal is heavier than I
expected and much heavier than my wood only vertical saw. The saw
itself is a lot heavier. I will not be dead lifting it onto the stand.
One thing in the version of the manual I found online that concerned
me is that it appeared to have friction block type blade guides. My
wood cutting bandsaw has friction block and they work fine.
Particularly since I changed them out for "Cool Blocks" (tm), but both
of my horizontal metal cutting saws have bearing roller guides. One of
the first things I noticed when I pried the saw out of the Styrofoam
packing (more on that in a minute) is that top and bottom had decent
size bearing roller blade guides. Making sure it wasn't a very recent
upgrade I opened the manual that actually came with the saw and it
shows the bearing roller guides. It could be another reason the saw
was on sale. Another item that represented the saw as less than it
actually was.

About that Styrofoam packing. Its a very thick excellent sandwich foam
custom molded for the saw. Did I say thick. The box itself looked like
it had been burst partly open and retaped in transit. The box was
damaged on two sides and the whole box was "bent" a foot from the end
and the end dipped more than an inch hanging off the pallet. I have
fully unpacked and unwrapped the saw, and the stand. I went out of my
way looking for any signs of damaged from bent sheet metal to a door
that might not open or close perfectly. There are still parts (table,
fence, trunnion, wheel, etc) embedded in the packing foam, but I could
find zero hints of damage despite the obvious abuse the packaging
received in transit.

I have a lot of work to do so the saw might just sit where it is for a
couple days, but I'll let you know how it does ripping aluminum and
steel soon enough.

The motor is a little lighter than I would have liked at 1.25 HP
according to the data plate, but it is a 4 pole motor so it should
still have decent torque at modest RPM.

I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem pretty
quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with the bolt holes
in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They are off by a lot. A
call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not particularly helpful.

"Oh, tech support has to talk with you and will ask you to make
measurements. I can start a ticket, but then you will have to wait on
them to get back to you, or you can call back on Monday and we can
transfer you directly over to them. "

What I heard was, "Customer service is only here on the weekend to make
people 'think' you might get some service. Not to actually do anything."
LOL.

What somebody else, might say is, "Oh that's awesome. Its totally not
right out of the box, but they are fantastic because they will make it
right eventually." LOL.



Well I found the problem. The logo panel on the stand is on upside
down. LOL, Seriously. I just set the stand down with the logo upside
right, and the stand is upside down. It never even occurred to me
they'd ship it with their logo mounted upside down. I feel silly.

On 26/08/2019 20:23, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/24/2019 12:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/23/2019 1:21 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw.Â* Of course it seems to
only come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it
for metal cutting.Â* (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small
woodcutting upright bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale.Â* The title of the listing
says its 3 phase.Â* You have to read down into the description to
see they sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires
to plug into a single phase outlet.Â* I think most small shop and
home shop people saw "3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it.Â* I like
the way the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd
just get those for the upright.Â* The saw spec says blade width from
1/8 to 1 inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with
it.Â* I'm kinda looking for the most useful pitch and width so to
speak.Â* Is there a big difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and
a 1 inch wide blade.Â* I suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight
cutting stuff that isn't practical to fit in the horizontal.Â* Cost
difference is only about $10-15 dollars depending on the source,
but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or a couple shots of
top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch.Â* The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do
just fine for most things.Â* I use it on aluminum most of the time,
but it will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of
course it severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it
chops aluminum. Looks like about 12 pitch.Â* I can't recall, but it
might be variable pitch 12/14 or something like that.Â* I don't want
to have a bunch of different blades hanging on the wall.Â* Just one
spare that will allow me to keep going if I break one while I order
another spare.Â* It will get used most of the time to cut 6061 or
7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2 inch thick. It will occasionally
need to cut some 4140HT or some A36 from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.Â*
Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of aluminum sheet in either
5052 or 3003.Â* Now I usually cut those with a circular saw on the
wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since
that's what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to
changing my mind.


Well it finally arrived a day late while the blades arrived several
days early.

First impressions are good. All the sheet metal is heavier than I
expected and much heavier than my wood only vertical saw. The saw
itself is a lot heavier. I will not be dead lifting it onto the
stand. One thing in the version of the manual I found online that
concerned me is that it appeared to have friction block type blade
guides. My wood cutting bandsaw has friction block and they work
fine. Particularly since I changed them out for "Cool Blocks" (tm),
but both of my horizontal metal cutting saws have bearing roller
guides. One of the first things I noticed when I pried the saw out
of the Styrofoam packing (more on that in a minute) is that top and
bottom had decent size bearing roller blade guides. Making sure it
wasn't a very recent upgrade I opened the manual that actually came
with the saw and it shows the bearing roller guides. It could be
another reason the saw was on sale. Another item that represented
the saw as less than it actually was.

About that Styrofoam packing. Its a very thick excellent sandwich
foam custom molded for the saw. Did I say thick. The box itself
looked like it had been burst partly open and retaped in transit.
The box was damaged on two sides and the whole box was "bent" a foot
from the end and the end dipped more than an inch hanging off the
pallet. I have fully unpacked and unwrapped the saw, and the stand.
I went out of my way looking for any signs of damaged from bent
sheet metal to a door that might not open or close perfectly. There
are still parts (table, fence, trunnion, wheel, etc) embedded in the
packing foam, but I could find zero hints of damage despite the
obvious abuse the packaging received in transit.

I have a lot of work to do so the saw might just sit where it is for
a couple days, but I'll let you know how it does ripping aluminum
and steel soon enough.

The motor is a little lighter than I would have liked at 1.25 HP
according to the data plate, but it is a 4 pole motor so it should
still have decent torque at modest RPM.

I started to setup the saw today, and ran into my first problem
pretty quickly. The bolt holes in the stand do not line up with the
bolt holes in the saw. They aren't off by a little either. They are
off by a lot. A call to Customer Service at Grizzly was not
particularly helpful.

"Oh, tech support has to talk with you and will ask you to make
measurements. I can start a ticket, but then you will have to wait on
them to get back to you, or you can call back on Monday and we can
transfer you directly over to them. "

What I heard was, "Customer service is only here on the weekend to
make people 'think' you might get some service. Not to actually do
anything." LOL.

What somebody else, might say is, "Oh that's awesome. Its totally not
right out of the box, but they are fantastic because they will make
it right eventually." LOL.



Well I found the problem.Â* The logo panel on the stand is on upside
down.Â* LOL,Â* Seriously. I just set the stand down with the logo upside
right, and the stand is upside down.Â* It never even occurred to me
they'd ship it with their logo mounted upside down.Â* I feel silly.

Must have been the model destined for Australia and New Zealand.

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 20:48:56 +0100
David Billington wrote:

On 26/08/2019 20:23, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/24/2019 12:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
[...]
[...]
[...]
[...]
[...]


Well I found the problem.Â* The logo panel on the stand is on upside
down.Â* LOL,Â* Seriously. I just set the stand down with the logo upside
right, and the stand is upside down.Â* It never even occurred to me
they'd ship it with their logo mounted upside down.Â* I feel silly.

Must have been the model destined for Australia and New Zealand.


Maybe the people who put it on there thought it looked fine that
way ;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
Well I found the problem. The logo panel on the stand is on upside
down. LOL, Seriously. I just set the stand down with the logo
upside right, and the stand is upside down. It never even occurred
to me they'd ship it with their logo mounted upside down. I feel
silly.

I was tempted to suggest that if the front holes were too far apart
and the rear ones too close together you should turn it around, but
that would be an undeserved cheap shot.

Turns out it does fit the assembler and inspector.

I've seen a reputedly very intelligent person completely befuddled by
a backwards bandsaw blade. I just wordlessly inverted it. Then to rub
it in I folded the dull one into three loops.

As a lowly lab tech in a sea of Ph.Ds I had to do such things to make
them listen. I never found out which genius kept trying to cut an old
lawnmower blade at the Walker-Turner's wood speed. I couldn't stop
them but I would have offered to take it home and cut it on my chop
saw.

On 26/08/2019 23:07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
Well I found the problem. The logo panel on the stand is on upside
down. LOL, Seriously. I just set the stand down with the logo
upside right, and the stand is upside down. It never even occurred
to me they'd ship it with their logo mounted upside down. I feel
silly.
I was tempted to suggest that if the front holes were too far apart
and the rear ones too close together you should turn it around, but
that would be an undeserved cheap shot.

Turns out it does fit the assembler and inspector.

I've seen a reputedly very intelligent person completely befuddled by
a backwards bandsaw blade. I just wordlessly inverted it. Then to rub
it in I folded the dull one into three loops.

As a lowly lab tech in a sea of Ph.Ds I had to do such things to make
them listen. I never found out which genius kept trying to cut an old
lawnmower blade at the Walker-Turner's wood speed. I couldn't stop
them but I would have offered to take it home and cut it on my chop
saw.


Reminds me of being at evening class at Wichita vo-tech college in the
early 1980s, a few occasions I had to use a hacksaw to cut through large
aluminium sections as it was quicker than doing it with the horizontal
band saw as someone during the day regularly blunted the teeth on the
blade and it would just skate over the top. One time the instructor
heard the maintenance team were going to paint the lathes so popped in
before they had done much and found them starting to paint the whole
lathe, ways and all, he put a stop to that fortunately.

On 8/26/2019 3:49 PM, David Billington wrote:
On 26/08/2019 23:07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
...
Well I found the problem. The logo panel on the stand is on upside
down. LOL, Seriously. I just set the stand down with the logo
upside right, and the stand is upside down. It never even occurred
to me they'd ship it with their logo mounted upside down. I feel
silly.
I was tempted to suggest that if the front holes were too far apart
and the rear ones too close together you should turn it around, but
that would be an undeserved cheap shot.

Turns out it does fit the assembler and inspector.

I've seen a reputedly very intelligent person completely befuddled by
a backwards bandsaw blade. I just wordlessly inverted it. Then to rub
it in I folded the dull one into three loops.

As a lowly lab tech in a sea of Ph.Ds I had to do such things to make
them listen. I never found out which genius kept trying to cut an old
lawnmower blade at the Walker-Turner's wood speed. I couldn't stop
them but I would have offered to take it home and cut it on my chop
saw.


Reminds me of being at evening class at Wichita vo-tech college in
the early 1980s, a few occasions I had to use a hacksaw to cut through
large aluminium sections as it was quicker than doing it with the
horizontal band saw as someone during the day regularly blunted the
teeth on the blade and it would just skate over the top. One time the
instructor heard the maintenance team were going to paint the lathes so
popped in before they had done much and found them starting to paint the
whole lathe, ways and all, he put a stop to that fortunately.



Over on CNC Zone having retrofit and re-retrofit a KMB1 I read some of
the newer KMB1 retrofit threads and sometimes help somebody with some of
the particulars. One fellow not to long back decided to clean up and
paint his. He didn't go so far as to paint the ways or the table, but
he completely painted over the swivel collar on the head, all the bolts
and the ways to extend and retract the head. I have to say it was a
very nice paint job. I don't know how he so closely matched the
original Hurco paint.


Scroll down.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/hurco...upgrade-3.html


My KMB1 will never look that pretty. LOL.

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
On 26/08/2019 23:07, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
Reminds me of being at evening class at Wichita vo-tech college in
the early 1980s, a few occasions I had to use a hacksaw to cut
through large aluminium sections as it was quicker than doing it
with the horizontal band saw as someone during the day regularly
blunted the teeth on the blade and it would just skate over the top.
One time the instructor heard the maintenance team were going to
paint the lathes so popped in before they had done much and found
them starting to paint the whole lathe, ways and all, he put a stop
to that fortunately.


That nearly describes my South Bend lathe, which came from a trade
school in which the shop instructor allegedly spent the yearly
maintenance budget on a little school-color paint and a lot of
whiskey.

Fortunately the eagerly but unwisely applied paint popped loose off
after coating the parts with Zip Strip and placing them in plastic
bags.

Mostly it was still in good shape, except the tailstock spindle that
someone mistook for an anvil horn. The dealer gave me another spindle
which sorta fits right as long as it isn't extended too far.

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 15:53:55 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 20:48:56 +0100
David Billington wrote:

On 26/08/2019 20:23, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/24/2019 12:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
[...]
[...]
[...]
[...]
[...]


Well I found the problem.* The logo panel on the stand is on upside
down.* LOL,* Seriously. I just set the stand down with the logo upside
right, and the stand is upside down.* It never even occurred to me
they'd ship it with their logo mounted upside down.* I feel silly.

Must have been the model destined for Australia and New Zealand.


Maybe the people who put it on there thought it looked fine that
way ;-)
I see the occasional Chevy with the logo mounted upside down!