Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Old August 14th 19, 11:09 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says
its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare. It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick. It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch. Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.

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Old August 15th 19, 01:02 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:
I got suckered in by some SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)


Hmm ... that wood blade might be a good choice when cutting
aluminum which is at least three teeth thick.

I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says
its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.


Sounds like you got a bargain.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.


The 3/4" should be good enough. I would go for the 1" if I were
cutting rather thick steel purely on straight lines.

1/2" might even do -- but there is something to be said for
using the same blade stock for both the horizontal and the vertical --
*if* you have a blade welder. (Maybe the Grizzly came with one in the
column?) Then just buy spools of blade stock and you can make up blades
for both saws.

Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare.


Or -- as I mentioned above -- a roll of stock, if you have a
blade welder.

It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick.


For that -- 6 TPI would do.

It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch.


In that case -- go up to about 12 TPI -- so you always have at
least three teeth in the workpiece.

Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.


A stomp shear is nice for that -- but if you are using a
circular saw, you don't have one. (And the bench-mount ones are not
wide enough to cut the typical 4'x8' sheet metal stock.)

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.


For most of what you are doing (other than the sheet aluminum,
whose thickness you did not mention) the 12-14 TIP should do. The 10-12
TPI might be marginal on the 1/4" thick stock -- and you really do want
a finer tooth blade for the sheet aluminum, which I'm guessing is about
16 gauge or so.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Old August 15th 19, 02:39 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 5,398
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:

......
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick
to 2
inch thick.


For that -- 6 TPI would do.


I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.


  #4   Report Post  
Old August 15th 19, 03:29 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,954
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

On 8/14/2019 8:39 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:

.....
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick
to 2
inch thick.

For that -- 6 TPI would do.

I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.



Â* Mine wears a 10/14 bimetal about 95% of the time . I do have an 18
for thin stock . I have yet to use it for wood ... isn't that what
chainsaws are for ? Mine have been getting quite a workout lately
stocking up firewood .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

  #5   Report Post  
Old August 15th 19, 01:59 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,398
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 8/14/2019 8:39 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:

.....
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2"
thick
to 2
inch thick.
For that -- 6 TPI would do.

I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut
off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.



Mine wears a 10/14 bimetal about 95% of the time . I do have an 18
for thin stock . I have yet to use it for wood ... isn't that what
chainsaws are for ? Mine have been getting quite a workout lately
stocking up firewood .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !


These were 6x6 PT timbers for a retaining wall and I wanted smooth and
square cuts at an exposed outside corner.

I've used a chainsaw to square large logs and cut joint notches and
plane the tops of log roof beams for pole sheds, so I know what I can
and can't do. Chainsawing isn't for exposed surfaces that could snag
clothing.

To cut long heavy stock like that I balance it across the bandsaw
table and set adjustable support(s) under it, then slide the stock to
the cut position. If the stock is too heavy to lift I suspend it from
a portable hoist and use a balanced 2x4 etc as the guide to set the
height so the cut will be square.

That was good enough to cut 4" square steel tube to ~16' for columns.
I made and welded on steel end plates to attach a 20' W10 x 33 beam,
which I hoisted into place. An engineer designed the job, not me, but
I was able to fab and erect it. "A man's got to know his limitations",
and that job was close to mine.

I've wanted a small top-handle arborist chainsaw for a long time but
couldn't justify the cost of a Stihl, Husky or Echo. This is on order,
hope it's as decent as the reviews suggest. Amazon's price jumped
after I ordered it.
https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Jon.../dp/B07NZ4JTDT




  #6   Report Post  
Old August 15th 19, 02:25 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,954
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

On 8/15/2019 7:59 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
On 8/14/2019 8:39 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2019-08-14, Bob La Londe wrote:
.....
It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2"
thick
to 2
inch thick.
For that -- 6 TPI would do.
I started with 10/14 on my 4x6 bandsaw and slowly found I needed
pitches from 6 to 24. The 6/10 was the only blade that would cut
off
6" square timbers, the 10/14 just clogged.


Mine wears a 10/14 bimetal about 95% of the time . I do have an 18
for thin stock . I have yet to use it for wood ... isn't that what
chainsaws are for ? Mine have been getting quite a workout lately
stocking up firewood .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

These were 6x6 PT timbers for a retaining wall and I wanted smooth and
square cuts at an exposed outside corner.

I've used a chainsaw to square large logs and cut joint notches and
plane the tops of log roof beams for pole sheds, so I know what I can
and can't do. Chainsawing isn't for exposed surfaces that could snag
clothing.

To cut long heavy stock like that I balance it across the bandsaw
table and set adjustable support(s) under it, then slide the stock to
the cut position. If the stock is too heavy to lift I suspend it from
a portable hoist and use a balanced 2x4 etc as the guide to set the
height so the cut will be square.

That was good enough to cut 4" square steel tube to ~16' for columns.
I made and welded on steel end plates to attach a 20' W10 x 33 beam,
which I hoisted into place. An engineer designed the job, not me, but
I was able to fab and erect it. "A man's got to know his limitations",
and that job was close to mine.

I've wanted a small top-handle arborist chainsaw for a long time but
couldn't justify the cost of a Stihl, Husky or Echo. This is on order,
hope it's as decent as the reviews suggest. Amazon's price jumped
after I ordered it.
https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Jon.../dp/B07NZ4JTDT



Â* I have 3 older Homelite power heads that all have top throttle
triggers in addition to the "normal" rear position throttle . I only use
one right now and it works great . One of the others runs , the 3rd is
just for spares . My main saw is a Stihl model 025 that was free to me
.... though I have since installed a new motor and consumables . The only
saw I actually paid for is a Poulan 18" and it's the most finicky of all .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

  #7   Report Post  
Old August 16th 19, 03:32 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 1,783
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

On Thu, 15 Aug 2019 08:59:55 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:



I've wanted a small top-handle arborist chainsaw for a long time but
couldn't justify the cost of a Stihl, Husky or Echo. This is on order,
hope it's as decent as the reviews suggest. Amazon's price jumped
after I ordered it.
https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Jon.../dp/B07NZ4JTDT


I recently went looking for a good quality light saw, not necessarily
a top-handle. There's not much available between very cheap and very
expensive. I have a pro Stihl that I bought 30+ years ago when we
built our house, one of the best purchases I've ever made, but it
seems to get a little heavier every year. I lucked into a nice Echo
top-handle on Craigslist for $45. Much nicer when the full-size saw is
not necessary.

--
Ned Simmons
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Old August 16th 19, 07:10 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,485
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)

I think I know why they had them on sale. The title of the listing says
its 3 phase. You have to read down into the description to see they
sell it with a VFD control for speed control and its wires to plug into
a single phase outlet. I think most small shop and home shop people saw
"3 phase" and just skipped onto the next listing.

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.

Then there is pitch. The blade on my 7x10 horizontal seems to do just
fine for most things. I use it on aluminum most of the time, but it
will severe 1-5/8 4140QT round without much thought, and of course it
severs easy machining stress proof almost as fast as it chops aluminum.
Looks like about 12 pitch. I can't recall, but it might be variable
pitch 12/14 or something like that. I don't want to have a bunch of
different blades hanging on the wall. Just one spare that will allow me
to keep going if I break one while I order another spare. It will get
used most of the time to cut 6061 or 7075 aluminum from 1/2" thick to 2
inch thick. It will occasionally need to cut some 4140HT or some A36
from 1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch. Rarely I may need to cut some pieces of
aluminum sheet in either 5052 or 3003. Now I usually cut those with a
circular saw on the wood deck of my equipment trailer.

I'm leaning towards a 12-14TPI or 10-12TPI 3/4 inch blade since that's
what I am running on the horizontal, but I'm open to changing my mind.



Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the
time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw. A 5/8 and
a 10/14. I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want
carbon steel blades. I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them
pretty useless for me. The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a
little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my
pocket money on the saw.


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Old August 17th 19, 03:34 AM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 2,569
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)

On 2019-08-16, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)


[ ... ]

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.


[ ... ]

Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the
time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw. A 5/8 and
a 10/14. I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want
carbon steel blades. I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them
pretty useless for me. The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a
little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my
pocket money on the saw.


Isn't the blade welder capable of bi-metal blades? Yes, you
need more current for bi-metal, but ... I use mine on bi-metal blades,
even though it is not specified for them I use the 5/8" setting for 1/2"
bi-metal blades -- which are the largest that my 4x6 horizontal/vertical
bandsaw can handle anyway. If your welder specifies 1" blades within
its range, use that setting for 3/4" or 5/8".

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | (KV4PH) Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
  #10   Report Post  
Old August 17th 19, 03:32 PM posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 1,485
Default New Bandsaw - (NEW new)


On 8/16/2019 7:34 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2019-08-16, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 8/14/2019 3:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: I got suckered in by some
SPAM from Grizzly and ordered a G0621X
variable speed vertical wood/metal bandsaw. Of course it seems to only
come with a wood blade, and I will probably only ever use it for metal
cutting. (I already have a decent Rigid mid/small woodcutting upright
bandsaw.)


[ ... ]

I'm getting ready to order a metal cutting blade for it. I like

the way
the M42 blades hold up on my 7x10 bandsaw so I figured I'd just get
those for the upright. The saw spec says blade width from 1/8 to 1
inch, but I doubt I'll be doing any scroll cutting with it. I'm kinda
looking for the most useful pitch and width so to speak. Is there

a big
difference between a 3/4 inch wide blade and a 1 inch wide blade. I
suspect I'll be doing 99.9% straight cutting stuff that isn't practical
to fit in the horizontal. Cost difference is only about $10-15 dollars
depending on the source, but still $10 is a premium six pack of beer or
a couple shots of top grade Canadian rye for after work.


[ ... ]

Well, I had hoped to reach a compromise blade to leave on "most" of the
time, but I broke down and bought two blades for the new saw. A 5/8 and
a 10/14. I looked at buying some coil stock, but I just don't want
carbon steel blades. I cut just enough medium hard steel to make them
pretty useless for me. The coils of decent quality bimetal were just a
little more than I wanted to spend right now after spending all my
pocket money on the saw.


Isn't the blade welder capable of bi-metal blades? Yes, you
need more current for bi-metal, but ... I use mine on bi-metal blades,
even though it is not specified for them I use the 5/8" setting for 1/2"
bi-metal blades -- which are the largest that my 4x6 horizontal/vertical
bandsaw can handle anyway. If your welder specifies 1" blades within
its range, use that setting for 3/4" or 5/8".

Good Luck,
DoN.



I have to weld blades manually, and then anneal with a torch. I don't
think the new saw comes with a blade welder. Eventually I'll pick one
up though. I've silver brazed, but have had mixed luck. Some seem to
hold, and some don't. A little blade holding jig I made some time back
helped a lot. I wasn't concerned with being able to weld them though. I
was concerned with having only lunch money in my pocket when I looked at
bimetal coil stock pricing. LOL. Its not out. Its just out for a
little while after spending all my play money on the saw. Also maybe
having 250' of coil stock of a TPI that might turn out to not be ideal
for my use.




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