Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

fired this volley in news:5a2906ad-fe9a-44a7-ac2f-
:

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

A simple "air amplifier" booster consisting of two cylinders of different
diameters and some valving would do what you want. You only need boost
for the last 20psi, or so, and your tailing volume is small compared to
what it takes to fill the tire.

Pre-assembled commercial versions exist.

I owned an old DeVilbiss air-powered 'airless' paint sprayer that pumps
paint at 1000psi from 80psi air. It consisted of a 2" cylinder direct-
driving a 1/2" pump cylinder, and a couple of end-of-travel valves to
reverse the direction the big one.

Lloyd

Probably, and that's exactly what I did when I owned the truck I was
driving.

Now being a driver, no longer an owner, as well as this vehicle being
the property of the leasing company, I can't make any kind of mods to
it.

On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 08:29:29 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

fired this volley in news:5a2906ad-fe9a-44a7-ac2f-
:

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

A simple "air amplifier" booster consisting of two cylinders of different
diameters and some valving would do what you want. You only need boost
for the last 20psi, or so, and your tailing volume is small compared to
what it takes to fill the tire.

Pre-assembled commercial versions exist.

I owned an old DeVilbiss air-powered 'airless' paint sprayer that pumps
paint at 1000psi from 80psi air. It consisted of a 2" cylinder direct-
driving a 1/2" pump cylinder, and a couple of end-of-travel valves to
reverse the direction the big one.

Lloyd

The Air Force used to use a simple double cylinder "air booster" that
would pump a thousand PSI (for landing gear shock struts) using a
conventional 100 PSI air compressor.
--
Cheers,

John B.

wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

Where are you tapping the air? I've pulled full system air pressure from
the glad hand with no issues. That said I've also used a simple SCUBA
tank set-up to fill tires.

--
Steve W.

On 12/14/2014 8:07 AM, wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

Does the pump put out 120 really ?

Martin

I'm using a connection from the gladhands, as that's the easiest.

No promises as to the accuracy of the gauge, it's certainly not a precision instrument. At least no more than the rest of the truck. And I would have to call a freightliner a small(very small) step better than an Intrashational.

Found the following on ebay. Can anyone suggest what the tube/hoses and unidentified unit hooked to the amplifier is/does?

thanks

gary


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haskel-air-a...04767 5.l2557

On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 20:19:48 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/14/2014 8:07 AM, wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

Martin, the resistance in the hose is only during full flow.
Give it 5 seconds and the full pressure hits the far end.
It's the law!


Does the pump put out 120 really ?

Good question. Gauge error?

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 06:21:51 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I'm using a connection from the gladhands, as that's the easiest.

No promises as to the accuracy of the gauge, it's certainly not a precision instrument. At least no more than the rest of the truck. And I would have to call a freightliner a small(very small) step better than an Intrashational.

So get a better gauge and pop a QD on the end so you can tell.


Found the following on ebay. Can anyone suggest what the tube/hoses and unidentified unit hooked to the amplifier is/does?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haskel-air-a...04767 5.l2557

That listing is expired/unavailable. The header says it's a piloted
device, so you're probably looking at feedback and control tubes.

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 20:19:48 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/14/2014 8:07 AM, wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air
system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi
on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

Martin, the resistance in the hose is only during full flow.
Give it 5 seconds and the full pressure hits the far end.
It's the law!


Does the pump put out 120 really ?

Good question. Gauge error?

The tire pressure is 30PSI when the gauge on my inflater shows 35PSI,
with its trigger handle off. The inflater gauge has a non-standard
thread, else I would have replaced it.

As a cross check I measure and record tread depth when I swap winter
and summer tires, and keep track of which position they came off last
time with rf, lf, rr, lr marked inside the center hole cap.

-jsw

wrote in message
...
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pascal%27s_law

"PrecisionmachinisT" fired this
volley in :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pascal%27s_law

PT, you seem to be implying that the pressure will be equal in both parts
of the air amplifier because they are both connected to the source supply
-- which would be the case, if the prior were the case.

But the source only serves to fill the smaller cylinder when it is fully
retracted. It possesses a check valve so that as soon as its pressure
rises above supply, it's cut off from that source, and free to build
pressure to whatever level the ratio of areas between it and the
'driving' cylinder allow.

LLoyd

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in
message ...

wrote in message
...
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air
system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi
on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pascal%27s_law

The steam injector is a clever booster pump without moving parts that
uses steam at boiler pressure to force feed water in at a -higher-
pressure.
http://www.steamlocomotive.com/appliances/injectors.php
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...Giffard-02.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henri_Giffard

I was tediously making tapered drill bits until I realized that these
would drill nozzles::
http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/snappy.../snp-49409.htm

-jsw

Here's a link to the jpg that was posted on ebay.

http://s677.photobucket.com/user/gar...askel.jpg.html

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 12:48:45 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I was tediously making tapered drill bits until I realized that these
would drill nozzles::
http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/snappy.../snp-49409.htm

Drilling steel or decarbonizing nozzles? Don't forget these, usually
used for wood screws. http://www.pinterest.com/pin/547046685961351587/

Oops, wrong clipboard snippet... http://tinyurl.com/289kq5r

I just made a lemon creme pudding pie. Time for dessert.

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford

On 12/15/2014 9:18 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 20:19:48 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/14/2014 8:07 AM, wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

Martin, the resistance in the hose is only during full flow.
Give it 5 seconds and the full pressure hits the far end.
It's the law!


Does the pump put out 120 really ?

Good question. Gauge error?

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford

If there is flow the restriction will drop pressure.
If you measure static pressure you should read 120.
If you measure dynamic pressure (at use flow) it will
be lower. You might read 20 if the use of the air is great.

The tank is to far away to help the out rush.
A local tank would be of better use - e.g. fill it and use
from it while refiling from the long hose.



Martin

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 12:48:45 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I was tediously making tapered drill bits until I realized that
these
would drill nozzles::
http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/snappy.../snp-49409.htm

Drilling steel or decarbonizing nozzles? Don't forget these,
usually
used for wood screws.
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/547046685961351587/

Oops, wrong clipboard snippet... http://tinyurl.com/289kq5r

I just made a lemon creme pudding pie. Time for dessert.


The Snappy bits are HSS, my convergent nozzles are aluminum.
-jsw

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 21:49:54 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/15/2014 9:18 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 20:19:48 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/14/2014 8:07 AM, wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

Martin, the resistance in the hose is only during full flow.
Give it 5 seconds and the full pressure hits the far end.
It's the law!


Does the pump put out 120 really ?

Good question. Gauge error?

If there is flow the restriction will drop pressure.

HIGH flow. How much flow is going to happen between 90 and 105psi,
though? Some, but low. There should be very little pressure drop.


If you measure static pressure you should read 120.
If you measure dynamic pressure (at use flow) it will
be lower. You might read 20 if the use of the air is great.

Of course, but we're talkin' airing tires on a truck from a pump on
the vehicle.


The tank is to far away to help the out rush.
A local tank would be of better use - e.g. fill it and use
from it while refiling from the long hose.

For a flat, yes, but to go from 100 to 115?

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 23:40:39 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 12:48:45 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

I was tediously making tapered drill bits until I realized that
these
would drill nozzles::
http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/snappy.../snp-49409.htm

Drilling steel or decarbonizing nozzles? Don't forget these,
usually
used for wood screws.
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/547046685961351587/

Oops, wrong clipboard snippet... http://tinyurl.com/289kq5r

I just made a lemon creme pudding pie. Time for dessert.


The Snappy bits are HSS, my convergent nozzles are aluminum.

I have a set of straight Snappys. Love 'em. I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

LLoyd

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time, it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice clean
shops.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time, it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice clean
shops.

Sounds like you should be using stub-lenght drills for that sort of task,
or even a drill mandrel with only a tiny bit of (adjustable) stickout.
If you're using 1/16" bits, you aren't penetrating far.

LLoyd

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

LLoyd

1/16" and smaller drill bits are harder to use with a hand held drill
motor. So put the bit in a drill press.


"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 06:44:05 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
m:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time, it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice clean
shops.

Pill bottles with snap caps work well enough for holding small bits in
tool boxes. Stuff in a little cotton to keep them from bashing the
tips

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 08:14:05 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 06:44:05 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time, it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice clean
shops.

Pill bottles with snap caps work well enough for holding small bits in
tool boxes. Stuff in a little cotton to keep them from bashing the
tips

Gunner

Which reminds me...I also use the steel/brass waterproof match
containers for small bits that I use in the field...you can pick em up
at WallyWorld as well as most other outdoor sports places

https://www.google.com/search?q=wate...utf-8&oe=utf-8





"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child,
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosophy of sniveling brats."
PJ O'Rourke

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on
loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time,
it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice
clean
shops.

I like this short, lightweight drill for small holes freehand,
especially when I'm on a ladder and have only a hanging canvas bag to
put tools down in.
http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-802-504-.../dp/B00A14MUZI

It's rather slow on steel thicker than 29 ga roofing, but it's easier
to start in a punch mark than a heavier, faster drill.
-jsw

On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 06:07:45 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

Hey Gary,

50 foot of hose will have a fair loss. What happens if you use a
shorter hose as a test?

If you can get the 120PSI at the source, and if you are only going to
"top-up" the tires, maybe one of those 20 gallon "air pigs" filled at
the source will give you what you need.

Take care.

Brian Lawson.

Brian Lawson fired this volley in
:

50 foot of hose will have a fair loss.

This is just silly. Two THOUSAND feet of hose would have zero loss, unless
it had leaks! As PT aptly pointed out, the gas laws prohibit any pressure
in a closed system from being any different anywhere.

If you cannot get more than 98lb at the end of a 50' hose headed by 120psi,
then you are A) not waiting until the pressure finally reaches its
asymptotic limit [which it MUST, absent leaks], or B) have leaks -- major
leaks.

Lloyd

On 2014-12-18, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Brian Lawson fired this volley in
:

50 foot of hose will have a fair loss.

This is just silly. Two THOUSAND feet of hose would have zero loss, unless
it had leaks! As PT aptly pointed out, the gas laws prohibit any pressure
in a closed system from being any different anywhere.

Correct!!!

If you cannot get more than 98lb at the end of a 50' hose headed by 120psi,
then you are A) not waiting until the pressure finally reaches its
asymptotic limit [which it MUST, absent leaks], or B) have leaks -- major
leaks.

I think that there is a pressure loss at the Schrader valve or some
such, like a spring that needs to be pushed by air.

i

Ignoramus11878 fired this volley in
:

I think that there is a pressure loss at the Schrader valve or some
such, like a spring that needs to be pushed by air.

Not when a chuck is engaged on a Schrader, no. Both the chuck's valve and
the Schrader valve are fully opened when fully engaged.

More likely is a bad face washer in the chuck, causing a leak. An
expanding-collar lock-on chuck can solve that, and make the job easier,
too.

Lloyd

On 2014-12-18, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ignoramus11878 fired this volley in
:

I think that there is a pressure loss at the Schrader valve or some
such, like a spring that needs to be pushed by air.

Not when a chuck is engaged on a Schrader, no. Both the chuck's valve and
the Schrader valve are fully opened when fully engaged.

More likely is a bad face washer in the chuck, causing a leak. An
expanding-collar lock-on chuck can solve that, and make the job easier,
too.

Lloyd, I had the same problem as the OP, the last 10 PSI are very
difficult to push into a tire.

i

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 09:11:21 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time, it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice clean
shops.

Sounds like you should be using stub-lenght drills for that sort of task,
or even a drill mandrel with only a tiny bit of (adjustable) stickout.
If you're using 1/16" bits, you aren't penetrating far.

Yeah, that might save most of the fall-over accidents. I'll keep an
eye out for some. But I drill pilot holes, too, and those need to go
deeper. I break a lot of 3/32" drills in window openings on metal
flanges when installing blinds. The setback they require usually
falls on the edge of a metal corner and they skid sideways and break
as often as they drill through. sigh

I stock up on Hertel, Triumph, and Precision when MSC has sales and
free shipping. 1/8" is one that I usually wear out rather than break,
so that's another size on my list. At a buck or so a pop, it isn't
too painful.

I typed "stub drill bit" and it gave me screw machine length, which
cost from $1.06 for Interstates up to $6.88 a pop for Guhring. Ouch!
In qty 12 plus s/h, usually.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 08:14:05 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 06:44:05 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time, it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice clean
shops.

Pill bottles with snap caps work well enough for holding small bits in
tool boxes. Stuff in a little cotton to keep them from bashing the
tips

Yeah, I have some bottles for some stuff like that, but I'm referring
to the Snappy hex holders for drill bits. I have a 7pc set from 1/16
to 1/4", and they're falling out of the (included) holding box after a
year. http://tinyurl.com/lgp5pfr


--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 12:46:12 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on
loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time,
it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice
clean
shops.

I like this short, lightweight drill for small holes freehand,
especially when I'm on a ladder and have only a hanging canvas bag to
put tools down in.
http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-802-504-.../dp/B00A14MUZI

It's rather slow on steel thicker than 29 ga roofing, but it's easier
to start in a punch mark than a heavier, faster drill.

I have one and use it at home with the HF hex set of billdrits.
They're surprisingly strong for a tiny motor, aren't they? I couldn't
believe that they'd drive a #10x3.5" deck screw into Doug Fir, but
Glenn showed me that trick and I bought one of the things the same
week. They're very handy. Batteries sure as heck take a long time to
recharge, though. My Makita 3Ah lithiums take 20 minutes, but the
Ryobis don't seem to have charged fully until 12 hours later.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 08:12:41 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
m:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

LLoyd

1/16" and smaller drill bits are harder to use with a hand held drill
motor. So put the bit in a drill press.

Uh, show me how to hang blinds with a drill press please, sir. g
Or drill thru trim into the siding on a house to hang it. Yup, their
rowdy kids tore it off while running around the house chasing each
other, so I screwed them on for the owner. With Liquid Nails added,
in a couple cases. I truly wished to offer child rearing advice, but
you know how that always goes over with negligent parents. What the
heck? It's job security, I guess.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:

Uh, show me how to hang blinds with a drill press please, sir. g
Or drill thru trim into the siding on a house to hang it. Yup, their
rowdy kids tore it off while running around the house chasing each
other, so I screwed them on for the owner. With Liquid Nails added,
in a couple cases. I truly wished to offer child rearing advice, but
you know how that always goes over with negligent parents. What the
heck? It's job security, I guess.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525.../dp/B000JCIMEA

--
Steve W.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 12:46:12 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on
loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time,
it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put
the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer
storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they
fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice
clean
shops.

I like this short, lightweight drill for small holes freehand,
especially when I'm on a ladder and have only a hanging canvas bag
to
put tools down in.
http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-802-504-.../dp/B00A14MUZI

It's rather slow on steel thicker than 29 ga roofing, but it's
easier
to start in a punch mark than a heavier, faster drill.

I have one and use it at home with the HF hex set of billdrits.
They're surprisingly strong for a tiny motor, aren't they? I
couldn't
believe that they'd drive a #10x3.5" deck screw into Doug Fir, but
Glenn showed me that trick and I bought one of the things the same
week. They're very handy. Batteries sure as heck take a long time
to
recharge, though. My Makita 3Ah lithiums take 20 minutes, but the
Ryobis don't seem to have charged fully until 12 hours later.

I like that it fits in a pocket so I can also carry a full-sized drill
in a holster, as it doesn't have the battery life to do a big job by
itself.

I haven't found a really good case for regular hex shank bits, let
alone the Snappys. I'm using a blue and black "Warrior" set that's too
big for a pocket and needs to be chopped up to accept larger drill
bits. The bit holders tilt out and their friction grip is about right.
-jsw

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 22:19:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 08:12:41 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

LLoyd

1/16" and smaller drill bits are harder to use with a hand held drill
motor. So put the bit in a drill press.

Uh, show me how to hang blinds with a drill press please, sir. g
Or drill thru trim into the siding on a house to hang it. Yup, their
rowdy kids tore it off while running around the house chasing each
other, so I screwed them on for the owner. With Liquid Nails added,
in a couple cases. I truly wished to offer child rearing advice, but
you know how that always goes over with negligent parents. What the
heck? It's job security, I guess.

Just as well. My brother used to offer us all kinds of advice rearing
our three boys, then him and his wife adopted their boy and girl. No
advice since.

Pete Keillor

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Uh, show me how to hang blinds with a drill press please, sir. g
Or drill thru trim into the siding on a house to hang it. Yup,
their
rowdy kids tore it off while running around the house chasing each
other, so I screwed them on for the owner. With Liquid Nails
added,
in a couple cases. I truly wished to offer child rearing advice,
but
you know how that always goes over with negligent parents. What the
heck? It's job security, I guess.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525.../dp/B000JCIMEA

--
Steve W.

Those aren't much help on window trim. Great for installing door
latches, though.
-jsw

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 07:08:51 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 12:46:12 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on
loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time,
it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put
the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer
storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they
fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice
clean
shops.

I like this short, lightweight drill for small holes freehand,
especially when I'm on a ladder and have only a hanging canvas bag
to
put tools down in.
http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-802-504-.../dp/B00A14MUZI

It's rather slow on steel thicker than 29 ga roofing, but it's
easier
to start in a punch mark than a heavier, faster drill.

I have one and use it at home with the HF hex set of billdrits.
They're surprisingly strong for a tiny motor, aren't they? I
couldn't
believe that they'd drive a #10x3.5" deck screw into Doug Fir, but
Glenn showed me that trick and I bought one of the things the same
week. They're very handy. Batteries sure as heck take a long time
to
recharge, though. My Makita 3Ah lithiums take 20 minutes, but the
Ryobis don't seem to have charged fully until 12 hours later.

I like that it fits in a pocket so I can also carry a full-sized drill
in a holster, as it doesn't have the battery life to do a big job by
itself.

Checking HD, Tek4 batteries are $12.97. I need to give myself another
one for Christmas.


I haven't found a really good case for regular hex shank bits, let
alone the Snappys. I'm using a blue and black "Warrior" set that's too
big for a pocket and needs to be chopped up to accept larger drill
bits. The bit holders tilt out and their friction grip is about right.

We'll probably have to make our own for the Snappys.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon