On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:27:30 -0600, Pete Keillor
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 22:19:20 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 08:12:41 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
m:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

LLoyd

1/16" and smaller drill bits are harder to use with a hand held drill
motor. So put the bit in a drill press.

Uh, show me how to hang blinds with a drill press please, sir. g
Or drill thru trim into the siding on a house to hang it. Yup, their
rowdy kids tore it off while running around the house chasing each
other, so I screwed them on for the owner. With Liquid Nails added,
in a couple cases. I truly wished to offer child rearing advice, but
you know how that always goes over with negligent parents. What the
heck? It's job security, I guess.

Just as well. My brother used to offer us all kinds of advice rearing
our three boys, then him and his wife adopted their boy and girl. No
advice since.

I'm sure it's quite the humbling experience. g

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 07:34:26 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Uh, show me how to hang blinds with a drill press please, sir. g
Or drill thru trim into the siding on a house to hang it. Yup,
their
rowdy kids tore it off while running around the house chasing each
other, so I screwed them on for the owner. With Liquid Nails
added,
in a couple cases. I truly wished to offer child rearing advice,
but
you know how that always goes over with negligent parents. What the
heck? It's job security, I guess.

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525.../dp/B000JCIMEA

Um, Steve. How do you drill within 3/8" of the inner window sill with
one of those? I have one, BTW, and just used it 2 weeks ago on a
project, but can't use it blinds.


Those aren't much help on window trim. Great for installing door
latches, though.

Nah, _these_ are for doors: http://tinyurl.com/mof55zd I've never
had a bit of trouble when using one of those kits. I did have to
purchase a good bimetal saw for installing locks thru metal doors,
though.

(I just noticed the Subject. Have we hijacked it, or what?

--
The door of opportunity is marked "PUSH".
--anon

On 12/16/2014 9:53 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 21:49:54 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/15/2014 9:18 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 20:19:48 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/14/2014 8:07 AM, wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

Martin, the resistance in the hose is only during full flow.
Give it 5 seconds and the full pressure hits the far end.
It's the law!


Does the pump put out 120 really ?

Good question. Gauge error?

If there is flow the restriction will drop pressure.

HIGH flow. How much flow is going to happen between 90 and 105psi,
though? Some, but low. There should be very little pressure drop.

If there are no connectors or If the connectors are 'air tight'.
They are likely leaking on both ends and in the middle if there is one.

A local tank on the end would be best - have the long hose fill it and
then start to use it from the local tank - as it refills but the tank
supplies the inrush flows and the big squirts setting the connector onto
the valve.

If you measure static pressure you should read 120.
If you measure dynamic pressure (at use flow) it will
be lower. You might read 20 if the use of the air is great.

Of course, but we're talkin' airing tires on a truck from a pump on
the vehicle.


The tank is to far away to help the out rush.
A local tank would be of better use - e.g. fill it and use
from it while refiling from the long hose.

For a flat, yes, but to go from 100 to 115?

--
Obstacles are those frightful things you
see when you take your eyes off your goal.
--Henry Ford

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 22:02:20 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/16/2014 9:53 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 21:49:54 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/15/2014 9:18 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 20:19:48 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 12/14/2014 8:07 AM, wrote:
Trucks, Freightliner, Volvo, Kenworth, etc, normally have air system
set @120psi or so.

I've found the highest I can inflate the tires using the truck
air system & a 50' hose is 97-98psi.

Need a bit more. Looking for 115psi on the steers(cold) & 105psi on
the drives.

Was wondering if an air powered booster pump would be possible?

Say, 50% of the airstream as high-pressure supply, and the rest to
drive the booster?

If not practical, any easier/better way?

thanks

gary

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

Martin, the resistance in the hose is only during full flow.
Give it 5 seconds and the full pressure hits the far end.
It's the law!


Does the pump put out 120 really ?

Good question. Gauge error?

If there is flow the restriction will drop pressure.

HIGH flow. How much flow is going to happen between 90 and 105psi,
though? Some, but low. There should be very little pressure drop.

If there are no connectors or If the connectors are 'air tight'.
They are likely leaking on both ends and in the middle if there is one.

Not 20 or more psi-worth, I wouldn't think.


A local tank on the end would be best - have the long hose fill it and
then start to use it from the local tank - as it refills but the tank
supplies the inrush flows and the big squirts setting the connector onto
the valve.

sigh OK, I'll reluctantly give you that one. Local tank = good.

--
With every experience, you alone are painting your
own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.
-- Oprah Winfrey

Martin Eastburn writes:

A long hose with small center hole is a high resistance.
If you have joint leaks, the pressure will drop before you
get to use it. You are dropping (maybe ) 20 PSI in the hose.
Try a larger ID hose with fewer connections.

You have pressure drop only when there's flow.

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 08:14:05 -0800, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 06:44:05 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2014 05:47:32 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I just got another 21
billdrits from HF yesterday for $2.97. 1/16", the size I break most
often.


Larry, you should work on that. You certainly should be wearing out
bits; but not breaking them. 1/16" twist drills don't break any easier
than any other size, if you're running them at the right chip load, with
the right lubricant.

What and how are you drilling that you break enough bits to justify
having a entire pocket-full of just the one size? (And, you know those
Horrible Fright drills aren't centered, and don't have consistent rake
from flute to flute???)

I use them all freehand, not in a drill press. And it's all on loose
material, like mobile home siding/trim and wood. Half the time, it's
from setting the drill down and grabbing the screwdriver to put the
screw in, or from kicking it over. I need to build a safer storage
for them, too, because many are broken in my toolbox when they fall
out of the cheap plastic holder in which Snappy sold them.

Handymen are much harder on tools than machinists, in their nice clean
shops.

Pill bottles with snap caps work well enough for holding small bits in
tool boxes. Stuff in a little cotton to keep them from bashing the
tips

Gunner

Which reminds me...I also use the steel/brass waterproof match
containers for small bits that I use in the field...you can pick em up
at WallyWorld as well as most other outdoor sports places

https://www.google.com/search?q=wate...utf-8&oe=utf-8


Have you ever used the plastic bottles that glucose test strips come
in? They are 1.75" inside depth and 13/32" inside diameter. I would
guess that most diabetics throw them out, but I use them for tiny screws
and other parts.

http://www.libertymedical.com/uploadedimages/products/diabetes/LIF020963/lifescan-onetouch-ultra-test-strips-2.jpg


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.