"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

BQ340 fired this volley in news:519ac9f9$0$9480
:

I don't have my familiar reference book at home to check, but
books.google.com/books?isbn=0871707268 page 79 claims roll slitting
will
not distort the edge of hard bronze.

Ok... have a roll slitter just sitting around (in 3/8" width roll-to-roll
spacing)?

The mill that does the conversion doesn't, and they're a high-volume
cutter.

LLoyd

0.010 is pretty thin, perhaps one of the modest cost slitters used for
countertop laminate might be adapted?

On 5/20/2013 6:22 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley
in . 3.70:

Paul fired this volley in
news:knehg8$cl0$1 @dont-email.me:

Is this the same spring bronze that is used as weatherstripping for
wooden doors and windows?

Checking, the narrowest it's commonly available is 1-1/8", and it's
always pre-formed... I don't know if the bend would interfere or not, but
the width would.

Lloyd
The reason I asked is they show pictures of it being cut with plain old
snips. I think I had a roll of it at one time and used it to connect ham
radio equipment chassis together.

Paul

On 5/20/2013 6:16 PM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Paul fired this volley in news:knehg8$cl0$1
@dont-email.me:

Is this the same spring bronze that is used as weatherstripping for
wooden doors and windows?


I don't know, but that's an interesting proposition. I wonder if it's
available un-punched, and without a felt embedded in one edge?

Lloyd
I have a couple of older powered slitters for cutting aircraft aluminum
skin. They are variable speed, hand held units. AL skin is pretty tough,
but the little I have cut goes like butter once you get it started. Got
the devices at an auction sale. Only used them a couple of times.

check with your local FBO at a small airport and see if they will test
the bronze in their cutter.

Paul

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Paul Drahn fired this volley in news:knehg8$cl0$1
@dont-email.me:

Is this the same spring bronze that is used as weatherstripping for
wooden doors and windows?


I don't know, but that's an interesting proposition. I wonder if it's
available un-punched, and without a felt embedded in one edge?

Lloyd

McMaster lists 3/8" wide 10' length spring temper stainless (301) coils
in 0.008" and 0.012" thicknesses among others for about $40, 2416K43 and
2416K61. Plenty of other sizes as well.

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Paul Drahn fired this volley in news:knehg8$cl0$1
@dont-email.me:

Is this the same spring bronze that is used as weatherstripping for
wooden doors and windows?


I don't know, but that's an interesting proposition. I wonder if it's
available un-punched, and without a felt embedded in one edge?

Lloyd

McMaster lists 3/8" wide 10' length spring temper stainless (301) coils
in 0.008" and 0.012" thicknesses among others for about $40, 2416K43 and
2416K61. Plenty of other sizes as well.

"Michael A. Terrell" on Mon, 20 May 2013
19:13:26 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
news
You can't use a flat, tinned copper braid for a ground strap?

I could, but there's no means to support the length of braid as it
uncoils. If it sags onto the fixed equipment, there will be a snag.

The ONLY reason we elected to go with the bronze is because in simple
tests, it would self-support from just one end for a distance of about
6" from the support point.

If we had any means whatsoever to prevent the coil from sagging when it
loosened, I'd be using stainless steel braid with crimped fixturing.


Thin, half inch heat shrink or similar plastic tubing will keep it
from snagging. A small spring can hold up the center. There are plenty
of ways to do it.

And he / they chose the one they did.

"Tain't so much that it takes all kinds,,, as we have all kinds."
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

Paul Drahn fired this volley in news:knep0e$bl5
:

I have a couple of older powered slitters for cutting aircraft aluminum
skin. They are variable speed, hand held units. AL skin is pretty
tough,
but the little I have cut goes like butter once you get it started. Got
the devices at an auction sale. Only used them a couple of times.



Hmmmm.... I'm a pilot, and know about five A&Ps... I'll ask if any of
them have one of those.

Lloyd

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519aec82$0$9410
:

McMaster lists 3/8" wide 10' length spring temper stainless (301) coils
in 0.008" and 0.012" thicknesses among others for about $40, 2416K43
and
2416K61. Plenty of other sizes as well.

That's probably the way we'll go, if we cannot properly slit this stuff.
The client traditionally uses bronze, but we can most likely talk them
into SS, so long as it has a suitable fatigue life.

LLoyd

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thin, half inch heat shrink or similar plastic tubing will keep it
from snagging. A small spring can hold up the center. There are
plenty
of ways to do it.

I agree




Sorry, Gunner (and the op who posted that). You can't possibly know the
physical arrangement. We've probably thought of a hundred ways you've
never imagined. There are NOT 'plenty of ways to do it', or we'd have
already done it one of those easier ways.

We're having trouble slitting bronze because we don't have the right
tools. Were not dumb.

Lloyd

Hey Lloyd,

Any possibility of coiling the raw stock to say a 5" diameter. or even
less diameter to the 2.5 inch "hub" you mention would be even better,
and then have slices taken off with wire EDM? Should leave the edges
less than sharp. Trick would be to hold it I think, but maybe on a
stub arbor?

Brian Lawson

On Mon, 20 May 2013 19:10:22 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

BQ340 fired this volley in news:519aba11$0$9534
:

Would a spring itself work instead of a flat piece?


No, but again, we studied that. No way to meet the hazard requirements
and also fit it into the available space.

LLoyd



Hey again Lloyd,

I don't know what it is called, but this sounds like the perfect job
for the form of a tape measure blade, where when straight, the "blade"
is concave (or is it convex??) across its width and wants to stay
"straight", and flat when coiled. I haven't seen one for quite some
time, but there used to be short rules say 1" wide of 24 or 36" length
that were "loose" and not inside a tape measure that worked that way.

Brian Lawson.

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519aec82$0$9410
:

McMaster lists 3/8" wide 10' length spring temper stainless (301) coils
in 0.008" and 0.012" thicknesses among others for about $40, 2416K43
and
2416K61. Plenty of other sizes as well.



Thanks, Pete.
Even when we searched the McMaster site, that didn't pop up until we
noticed a transient key with "spring temper" in it. So, especially
thanks for the part number. We'd have missed it, otherwise.

Have contacted the client. They only always use bronze in this
application, but when I gave them the mechanical specs on the #301
strips, they did not refuse to accept it out of hand. Should get
approved or denied by tomorrow.

I've ordered it, anyway.

If approved, the problem is solved.

Thanks again.
Lloyd

Brian Lawson fired this volley in
:

Any possibility of coiling the raw stock to say a 5" diameter. or even
less diameter to the 2.5 inch "hub" you mention would be even better,
and then have slices taken off with wire EDM? Should leave the edges
less than sharp. Trick would be to hold it I think, but maybe on a
stub arbor?

yep... and/or abrasive wheel cutoff on the mill, with the coil standing
vertically, and strapped tightly on either side of the cut.

I'm not real keen on using an abrasive wheel on a mill, but we can cover
it adequately, I think. Sort of the same problem as using a toolpost
grinder on a lathe (which I hate).

LLoyd

Brian Lawson fired this volley in
:

I don't know what it is called, but this sounds like the perfect job
for the form of a tape measure blade, where when straight, the "blade"
is concave (or is it convex??) across its width and wants to stay
"straight", and flat when coiled. I haven't seen one for quite some
time, but there used to be short rules say 1" wide of 24 or 36" length
that were "loose" and not inside a tape measure that worked that way.


That's the essence of what we're doing, except plain carbon spring steel
is not acceptable. This item will never un-reel, except for a
'standout' piece about 3" long from the body of the coil. The coil will
simply unwind to a slightly larger diameter from its rest condition. The
rotary element is constrained to 355 degrees of rotation.

It cannot be coiled tightly, because there must not be the chance of
crushing explosive particles between layers. It's ok to get them between
layers, but there's a limit on the force allowed. The stuff doesn't
stick to metal, so as long as it's not crushed, it is 'self cleaning' in
that respect.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519aec82$0$9410
:

McMaster lists 3/8" wide 10' length spring temper stainless (301) coils
in 0.008" and 0.012" thicknesses among others for about $40, 2416K43
and
2416K61. Plenty of other sizes as well.



Thanks, Pete.
Even when we searched the McMaster site, that didn't pop up until we
noticed a transient key with "spring temper" in it. So, especially
thanks for the part number. We'd have missed it, otherwise.

Have contacted the client. They only always use bronze in this
application, but when I gave them the mechanical specs on the #301
strips, they did not refuse to accept it out of hand. Should get
approved or denied by tomorrow.

I've ordered it, anyway.

If approved, the problem is solved.

Thanks again.
Lloyd

Happy to help If McMaster doesn't have it, you don't need it

pyotr filipivich wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" on Mon, 20 May 2013
19:13:26 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
news
You can't use a flat, tinned copper braid for a ground strap?

I could, but there's no means to support the length of braid as it
uncoils. If it sags onto the fixed equipment, there will be a snag.

The ONLY reason we elected to go with the bronze is because in simple
tests, it would self-support from just one end for a distance of about
6" from the support point.

If we had any means whatsoever to prevent the coil from sagging when it
loosened, I'd be using stainless steel braid with crimped fixturing.


Thin, half inch heat shrink or similar plastic tubing will keep it
from snagging. A small spring can hold up the center. There are plenty
of ways to do it.

And he / they chose the one they did.

"Tain't so much that it takes all kinds,,, as we have all kinds."


They paid their money, let them take their chances. ;-)

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
m:

They paid their money, let them take their chances. ;-)

Yep, and they paid in advance.

They use and allow flexible stainless steel braid where the braid will
not interfere with other motions. They usually do not use braid on
things that move during use, only on things that might be moved
occasionally. Where they must maintain the geometry of a bonding strap
or subject it to frequent motion, they use only bronze spring stock.

But consider too, they're an old, 'established' organization with safety
rules that date all the way back to the 1930s. So they may have passed
by newer materials and technologies for what they already know works.
Why spend money on testing for solutions you already have in place?
(unless you don't trust them)

We submitted a request for them to review the characteristics of #301
spring temper stainless, and they were at least receptive. We'll see
tomorrow.

Lloyd

In article , Lloyd
E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Chemical or electrochemical machining? Put down tape the size of what
is wanted, and etch the rest away. Phosphor bronze is not hard to
etch.

Joe Gwinn

On Monday, May 20, 2013 1:09:40 PM UTC-4, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Ok, 'solutions guys'...



I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x

80" long.



I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge

distortion.



We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type

shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our

application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.



I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews

it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.



We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a

waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred

just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.



A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes

the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".



Any ideas?



Thanks,

Lloyd

Hello,

I have pondered that if I had this problem in my shop I think I'd try this:

Mount ID of roll on an expanding arbor in lathe, pay attention to orientation of roll.

Place two hose clamps on OD of roll, one to left of cut, other to right of cut, about the width of my cutoff blade apart.

Use a sharp HSS cutoff blade to part off 3/8" slice of the roll between the clamps.

Feeds & speeds for this material I couldn't suggest, but should be some info about this available elsewhere.

Move/remove the clamps and do another slice.

First slice cut off would tell you if it's a workable plan, without destroying too much material if it's not going to work for some reason.

G'luck

--
PaulS

On 5/20/2013 20:09, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

Ask another place. It really shouldn't cost that much.
I would expect to get it WITH special material for that cost..

I'd do it with angle grinder in some setup to move it linearly.
It will cut fast enough not to have much heat-affected zone.
Perhaps could do it by making it into a roll and use a cut-off
holder for angle-grinder.. put it to vise like a bar (with
bar inside) and cut it.

Roll it on a steel bar and use a pipe-cutter to cut it! This
might actually be the way to do it neatly and simply!

Kristian Ukkonen.

Joe Gwinn wrote:


Chemical or electrochemical machining? Put down tape the size of what
is wanted, and etch the rest away. Phosphor bronze is not hard to
etch.
This will probably leave a ragged edge, as the etchant will get up
under the glue of the tape. But, maybe some hand finishing could
clean that up. I etch .003" brass shim stock all the time to make
solder stencils for electronic manufacturing. I use a laminated dry
film resist that is then exposed through a master photo film and
developed. This gives sharp edges and fine detail. But, I sometimes
mask off an area with tape just to prevent using up the etchant, and
this suffers from etchant getting under the edge of the tape.

Jon

On Tue, 21 May 2013 06:04:43 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thin, half inch heat shrink or similar plastic tubing will keep it
from snagging. A small spring can hold up the center. There are
plenty
of ways to do it.

I agree




Sorry, Gunner (and the op who posted that). You can't possibly know the
physical arrangement. We've probably thought of a hundred ways you've
never imagined. There are NOT 'plenty of ways to do it', or we'd have
already done it one of those easier ways.

We're having trouble slitting bronze because we don't have the right
tools. Were not dumb.

Lloyd

Sorry Lloyd. Just trying to help. My appologies.

Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Sorry Lloyd. Just trying to help. My appologies.

No harm done, Gunner.

Sometimes I get cranky at folks presuming they know how a machine is
built without seeing it or knowing the constraints under which we're
required to work when building stuff for explosives manufacturers. G

Lloyd

"PrecisionmachinisT" fired this volley in
news:bMGdneS7RfCm5wfMnZ2dnUVZ_gudnZ2d@scnresearch. com:

Then, make a "scrawker' out of a HSS or carbide lathe bit, or from a
Stanley or Exacto knife or whatever...



hey...
I want to thank you for that. As I said, I'd made one of those for
scoring plastics - oh... - about 40 years ago, and use it frequently.

But for some reason, it did not come to mind.

We have a lot of use for that spring bronze for other, smaller contacts
and bond straps for vibrating stuff. We've been cutting little pieces
with shears and cleaning up the edges with a file and fine-grit carbo.

The 'scrawker' (as you call it -- probably because of the sound it makes
in plastic??) peels up a PERFECT little curl for the entire length of the
cut. Six or seven firm passes is all it takes to snap off a piece, and
it only takes the fine paper dressing to finish it up.

I still don't think we have the patience or space to score 80" strips
(problem likely solved tomorrow, anyway), but it sure works a treat on
stuff a foot or less long!

Thanks!
LLoyd

On Mon, 20 May 2013 12:09:40 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

Yeah, waterjet would be my choice, given a budget for it. I don't see
how a laser could do it without ruining the temper, but I know little
about the laser cutting process, other than what a friend's Analog did
for his wood projects. No temper problems here. heh


A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Are in-house costs included? If not:

Does it cut fairly cleanly between steel blades? And would rolling
the edges back to flat be acceptable?

OR, got a grinder to remove the curl?

OR, cut 7/16" wide and wind it, then grind the curled edges off to
proper width?

What about a sheet-metal house? In bad times such as these, the
mandatory minimums are often overlooked.

--
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
-- Lois McMaster Bujold

"Pete C." wrote in message . com...

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519aec82$0$9410
:

McMaster lists 3/8" wide 10' length spring temper stainless (301) coils
in 0.008" and 0.012" thicknesses among others for about $40, 2416K43
and
2416K61. Plenty of other sizes as well.



Thanks, Pete.
Even when we searched the McMaster site, that didn't pop up until we
noticed a transient key with "spring temper" in it. So, especially
thanks for the part number. We'd have missed it, otherwise.

Have contacted the client. They only always use bronze in this
application, but when I gave them the mechanical specs on the #301
strips, they did not refuse to accept it out of hand. Should get
approved or denied by tomorrow.

I've ordered it, anyway.

If approved, the problem is solved.

Thanks again.
Lloyd

Happy to help If McMaster doesn't have it, you don't need it

http://www.mpair.com/library.active/...s/engltr14.pdf

"SPARK RESISTANCE. A common misapplication of stainless steel is in areas requiring non-sparking materials. Since stainless steels are basically alloys of ..."

"PrecisionmachinisT" fired this volley in
news:jKmdneOeHo7mYgbMnZ2dnUVZ_vednZ2d@scnresearch. com:

"SPARK RESISTANCE. A common misapplication of stainless steel is in
areas requiring non-sparking materials. Since stainless steels are
basically alloys of ..."


G Not a problem here, sir.

Yes, pretty much all stainless alloys spark when ground, and some spark
under impact, some don't.

But in this case, there are no impacts against the spring-stock possible,
and it's sheltered from any _serious_ contamination from the product
itself. Nor are the parts moving fast enough to cause the sort of
friction that would promote sparking (1rpm).

Yep... we deal with that issue every day, and most of our exposed parts
are 6061 and MIC-5/6 (or bronze, or zinc alloys, or tin alloys) because
of it.

LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Sorry Lloyd. Just trying to help. My appologies.

No harm done, Gunner.

Sometimes I get cranky at folks presuming they know how a machine is
built without seeing it or knowing the constraints under which we're
required to work when building stuff for explosives manufacturers. G

Lloyd

Like no pinch points for pressure-sensitive materials . Hey Lloyd , will
HMX DDT ?
--
Snag
Worked in an
R&D lab at
a missile plant .
LONG time ago ...

Hey again again Lloyd, and I'll shut-up........

On Tue, 21 May 2013 09:17:10 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

SNIP
They use and allow flexible stainless steel braid where the braid will
not interfere with other motions. They usually do not use braid on
things that move during use, only on things that might be moved
occasionally. Where they must maintain the geometry of a bonding strap
or subject it to frequent motion, they use only bronze spring stock.

SNIP
Lloyd


Your mention of the flexible steel braid does bring to mind that wire
rope cable does come in phosphor bronze material. Would that work?

Bye now.

Brian Lawson

"Snag" fired this volley in news:XkTmt.3828$cs.3131
@newsfe03.iad:

Hey Lloyd , will
HMX DDT ?


Actually, it burns pretty politely until it's shocked strongly.
G
Lloyd

Brian Lawson fired this volley in
news
Would that work?

'Could, if we could properly retract it. That would work for some
situations, but not enough space in this app to do it.

We've got a solution pending HA approval tomorrow. Stainless steel #301
spring stock (already comes in narrow strips).

Lloyd

On May 20, 12:09*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. *It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. *For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. *The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd

Here's a toll slitter (maybe worth a call):
http://www.precision-strip.com/services/slitting

Carolina Knife (slitting knife supplier) maybe they know someone
who'll do it for you:
http://www.cknife.com/industry/metal-processing.asp

Related article:
http://www.maxcessu.com/library/arti...-aluminum-foil

On 2013-05-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

The guillotine type shear? If it has newly sharpened blades,
and they are adjusted to just barely rub against each other, you will
get a much cleaner cut.

But the sheet metal house will not normally have the blades
adjusted that close, because that setting is wrong for the thickness of
metal they normally cut.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

Understood.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Yep -- at least a couple.

1) The way the supplier probably does it is a set of rollers with

sharp hardened edges on two axles, with smaller diameter spacers
between them, run interleaved. Gear them so they counter-rotate
and adjust them to overlap by say about 1/8" for what you are
cutting) and you can likely feed it in smoothly and get really
nice edges. This is even the sort of thing which makers of
recording tape used to use to cut a wide web of tape material
(several inches or perhaps even feet) into 1/4", 1/2", 1", and
even 2" wide tape for various recorders. If it'll work for that
for miles of tape, it should work for your 80" long strips.

2) How much heat is too much? Try cutting it a bit over-wide,
roll it up and cast it in one of the really low melting point
alloys (melt in boiling water) from Cerro, and then grind the
edges on one side, flip it over and grind the other side to the
proper dimensions. You might even be able to slide the puck of
casting around on some fine sandpaper if you can accept a likely
bit of width variation as you go around the roll.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 21 May 2013 18:51:04 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Snag" fired this volley in news:XkTmt.3828$cs.3131
:

Hey Lloyd , will
HMX DDT ?


Actually, it burns pretty politely until it's shocked strongly.
G

I hear C4 is great campfire starter, too. (What brilliant person first
thought of that one, eh?)

--
If you're trying to take a roomful of people by
surprise, it's a lot easier to hit your targets
if you don't yell going through the door.
-- Lois McMaster Bujold

I have used Chem Milling to fabricate thin complicated parts. The
vendor was very willing to fabricate small quantities relatively
inexpensively. See the following link for more information.

http://www.ask.com/wiki/Chemical_mil...=2801&qsrc=999

On Tue, 21 May 2013 21:21:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 21 May 2013 18:51:04 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Snag" fired this volley in news:XkTmt.3828$cs.3131
:

Hey Lloyd , will
HMX DDT ?


Actually, it burns pretty politely until it's shocked strongly.
G

I hear C4 is great campfire starter, too. (What brilliant person first
thought of that one, eh?)


The first GI that was wet, cold and hungry.


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Snag" fired this volley in news:XkTmt.3828$cs.3131
@newsfe03.iad:

Hey Lloyd , will
HMX DDT ?


Actually, it burns pretty politely until it's shocked strongly.
G
Lloyd

One of the things we did when I worked at Thiokol was to check new
propellant mixes for just that property . Chemist's opinions/calculations
and real-world conditions sometimes disagreed - often violently .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On Tue, 21 May 2013 22:15:13 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 21 May 2013 21:21:44 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 21 May 2013 18:51:04 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Snag" fired this volley in news:XkTmt.3828$cs.3131
:

Hey Lloyd , will
HMX DDT ?


Actually, it burns pretty politely until it's shocked strongly.
G

I hear C4 is great campfire starter, too. (What brilliant person first
thought of that one, eh?)


The first GI that was wet, cold and hungry.

"I think I'll light my high-explosive plastique on fire." is not a
sane concept, sir. Even a super-small test piece would have blown his
hands clean off if he guessed wrong about it not exploding. shrug
I mean, you wouldn't just shave a slice off your stick of dynamite to
start a fire, would you? And it's less explosive.

--
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
It hopes we've learned something from yesterday.
-- John Wayne

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

"I think I'll light my high-explosive plastique on fire." is not a
sane concept, sir. Even a super-small test piece would have blown his
hands clean off if he guessed wrong about it not exploding. shrug
I mean, you wouldn't just shave a slice off your stick of dynamite to
start a fire, would you? And it's less explosive.

Horse crap and bull dingles, Larry.
C-4 is mostly RDX, waxes, oils, and dioctyl adapate. RDX, like HMX, burns
quietly unless shocked by an initiator. C-4 burns like a fast version of
sterno, with a perfectly quiet blue flame (tiniest bit of sizzle), no
soot, and no explosions.

To my knowlege, the US military does not employ any HE materials that
will DDT under open-air burning of small quantities. Bets are off if you
light a 100lb pile of the stuff.

And yes, even dynamite can burn, if it's actually dynamite and not one of
the AN 'dynamite-like' stuffs, and it has a high-enough nitro content.
The lower 15% stuff won't burn for **** (or explode when you try to
ignite it). Diatomacious earth/clay/compacted sawdust has a tendency not
to burn very vigorously.

Of course, you wouldn't know this, but even nitroglycerine (IF very pure
and free of any acids or undesirable organic ligands from nitration)
burns like vigorous alcohol. In this case, it would be tempting fate to
arrange a puddle of it, and ignite it by hand.

An urban legend I have not confirmed (but is probably true) has the
chemist who first compounded TNT casting an ashtray of the stuff, just to
demonstrate how insensitive it was.

I've cooked many a C-rat and LRPs on C-4. I still have all my digits.

Lloyd

On Wed, 22 May 2013 09:51:53 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

"I think I'll light my high-explosive plastique on fire." is not a
sane concept, sir. Even a super-small test piece would have blown his
hands clean off if he guessed wrong about it not exploding. shrug
I mean, you wouldn't just shave a slice off your stick of dynamite to
start a fire, would you? And it's less explosive.

Horse crap and bull dingles, Larry.
C-4 is mostly RDX, waxes, oils, and dioctyl adapate. RDX, like HMX, burns
quietly unless shocked by an initiator. C-4 burns like a fast version of
sterno, with a perfectly quiet blue flame (tiniest bit of sizzle), no
soot, and no explosions.

To my knowlege, the US military does not employ any HE materials that
will DDT under open-air burning of small quantities. Bets are off if you
light a 100lb pile of the stuff.

Does every new soldier know all of that?


And yes, even dynamite can burn, if it's actually dynamite and not one of
the AN 'dynamite-like' stuffs, and it has a high-enough nitro content.
The lower 15% stuff won't burn for **** (or explode when you try to
ignite it). Diatomacious earth/clay/compacted sawdust has a tendency not
to burn very vigorously.

Of course, you wouldn't know this, but even nitroglycerine (IF very pure
and free of any acids or undesirable organic ligands from nitration)
burns like vigorous alcohol. In this case, it would be tempting fate to
arrange a puddle of it, and ignite it by hand.

Fear not. I won't try it. g


An urban legend I have not confirmed (but is probably true) has the
chemist who first compounded TNT casting an ashtray of the stuff, just to
demonstrate how insensitive it was.

I've cooked many a C-rat and LRPs on C-4. I still have all my digits.

OK, but I'll bet you either researched it prior to burning it, or took
someone else's demonstration of burning it before you lit your own C4,
Lloyd.

--
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
It hopes we've learned something from yesterday.
-- John Wayne