Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Surface grinder with thin abrasive cutoff wheel.
--
EA



Thanks,
Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd

Can you roll it up on some sacrificial form (dowel?), secure it (hose
clamps?) and then cut it with a slitting saw in a mill?

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519a5c14$0
:

Can you roll it up on some sacrificial form (dowel?), secure it (hose
clamps?) and then cut it with a slitting saw in a mill?

Yeah, perhaps. That was one thought that already came to mind, but I
don't have any experience sawing that stuff (it's tougher than a cypress
heart). It's also thin, so I'm not sure we aren't going to end up
snagging and lifting layers, even if we cut in climb.

But that's one idea certainly on the table (so to speak).

Maybe the same idea coupled with the abrasive wheel in the prior
suggestion???


Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd

I have used a thin abrasive cut-off wheel in a dremel for cutting shims.
With light pressure the edge does not deform. Keep it wet to keep it cool.
Cutting by hand does not leave a very straight edge, but maybe you can rig
up a guide. Although 80" would take a long time and several wheels.

You could try gluing it to a sacrificial board and using a slitting saw in a
mill.

"anorton" fired this volley in
m:

You could try gluing it to a sacrificial board and using a slitting
saw in a mill.

It's 80" long. I don't have a mill with X-travel that long. If I did
that, I'd have to run it through some guides by hand, like ripping on a
table saw.

That last is another suggestion that's been profered. Screw two waste
sheets together clamping (and maybe also gluing) the work between... then
rip it with a brand new carbide blade and slow feed. ??? Of course,
you'd lose the 'clamping' behind the cut; but maybe that's not an issue.

The length, unrolled, is the bugger-bear for handling it flat.

LLoyd

On Mon, 20 May 2013 12:36:54 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519a5c14$0
:

Can you roll it up on some sacrificial form (dowel?), secure it (hose
clamps?) and then cut it with a slitting saw in a mill?

Yeah, perhaps. That was one thought that already came to mind, but I
don't have any experience sawing that stuff (it's tougher than a cypress
heart). It's also thin, so I'm not sure we aren't going to end up
snagging and lifting layers, even if we cut in climb.

But that's one idea certainly on the table (so to speak).

Maybe the same idea coupled with the abrasive wheel in the prior
suggestion???


Lloyd

If you can roll it up, you have a candidate for a reasonably-priced
wire EDM job.

It should be neat, but be aware that there may be a wire-breakage
problem from the intermittant conductivity. Maybe, maybe not. If the
EDM operator knows his stuff, he should be able to do it without a
problem.

Setup would be minimal.

--
Ed Huntress

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"anorton" fired this volley in
m:

You could try gluing it to a sacrificial board and using a slitting
saw in a mill.

It's 80" long. I don't have a mill with X-travel that long. If I did
that, I'd have to run it through some guides by hand, like ripping on a
table saw.

That last is another suggestion that's been profered. Screw two waste
sheets together clamping (and maybe also gluing) the work between... then
rip it with a brand new carbide blade and slow feed. ??? Of course,
you'd lose the 'clamping' behind the cut; but maybe that's not an issue.

The length, unrolled, is the bugger-bear for handling it flat.

LLoyd

How about roll it onto a tube, put the tube in a lathe, and cut with a thin
abrasive wheel in a tool post grinder. I have a little adapter that holds a
dremel on the tool post.

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519a5c14$0
:

Can you roll it up on some sacrificial form (dowel?), secure it (hose
clamps?) and then cut it with a slitting saw in a mill?

Yeah, perhaps. That was one thought that already came to mind, but I
don't have any experience sawing that stuff (it's tougher than a cypress
heart). It's also thin, so I'm not sure we aren't going to end up
snagging and lifting layers, even if we cut in climb.

But that's one idea certainly on the table (so to speak).

Maybe the same idea coupled with the abrasive wheel in the prior
suggestion???

Lloyd

Perhaps a nice ultra thin diamond wheel cut under coolant?

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.


Can you run that through a pair of rollers to flatten it out? It
could even start the curve for the coil you want to make.

In article ,
Ed Huntress wrote:

If you can roll it up, you have a candidate for a reasonably-priced
wire EDM job.

That makes me wonder if a wire saw would also work, assuming it was
appropriately immobilized (would casting the roll in machinable wax or
one of the low-temp fixturing alloys (eg, woods metal) be too hot? Would
the fixturing alloys contaminate it? I don't know...just thinking about
ways to take the flex out of it for a clean cut.)

I wonder if putting it inside a pipe or bored hole and letting its own
spring tension do most of the clamping would be best - then you could
cut off a section of pipe with a section of spring-bronze rolled up in
it, and it would not be (quite) as prone to uncoiling as you cut. I
still suspect that some additional immobilization (such as wax casting)
would reduce Murphy's access to the process.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519a6273$0$10817
:

Perhaps a nice ultra thin diamond wheel cut under coolant?

Do you know how one would load up cutting a fairly gummy non-ferrous metal?
(I don't).

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd

Try scoring it with a razor knife or one of those hooked blades you use to
score Plexiglas.

I have found that, once you have a score line, spring bronze tears pretty
easy in the direction of the grain.

Paul K. Dickman

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
:

Can you run that through a pair of rollers to flatten it out? It
could even start the curve for the coil you want to make.



I guess I could find a roller. The sheared edge was also rough. We'd
have to dress it after flattening.

And we do not want it pre-curved. The purpose here is to keep it under
tension so that when it un-winds a little (about one turn on a 2.5" hub),
it stays flat-wound and self-supporting.

It's for a grounding strap on a rotary table. The table can only rotate
355 degrees, but house rules don't allow "wiper" type ground bonds in
this kind of environment. 'Has to be metal-to-metal and bonded with a
bolt.

The length of 80" was selected (stock sizes, so you picks what they
carries) because that allows the strip to unwind a minimal amount in
diameter with an approximately 10" length change.


Lloyd

"Paul K. Dickman" fired this volley in
:

Try scoring it with a razor knife or one of those hooked blades you
use to score Plexiglas.

I have found that, once you have a score line, spring bronze tears
pretty easy in the direction of the grain.

There's an idea we haven't tried. We thought of scoring it, but also
thought the way to break the score would be by brake-bending... never
thought of _tearing_ it. Hmmm...

Now I've got to figure out if the grain runs the long way on this
material.

LLoyd

"Paul K. Dickman" wrote in message
...

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd

Try scoring it with a razor knife or one of those hooked blades you use to
score Plexiglas.

I have found that, once you have a score line, spring bronze tears pretty
easy in the direction of the grain.

I was thinking that myself, but like shearing, it might curl -- but proly
less so.
..010 is pretty thin.
Also, you could score it from both sides. Ditto the wheel on a SG.
--
EA



Paul K. Dickman

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519a6273$0$10817
:

Perhaps a nice ultra thin diamond wheel cut under coolant?

Do you know how one would load up cutting a fairly gummy non-ferrous metal?
(I don't).

Lloyd

I wouldn't think that a spring temper bronze cut under coolant would be
gummy.

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:519a6b3f$0$23282
:


I wouldn't think that a spring temper bronze cut under coolant would be
gummy.

Maybe not. I just don't have any experience cutting it. I cut oilite all
the time, but that's not the same creature.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Paul K. Dickman" fired this volley in
:

Try scoring it with a razor knife or one of those hooked blades you
use to score Plexiglas.

I have found that, once you have a score line, spring bronze tears
pretty easy in the direction of the grain.

There's an idea we haven't tried. We thought of scoring it, but also
thought the way to break the score would be by brake-bending... never
thought of _tearing_ it. Hmmm...

Now I've got to figure out if the grain runs the long way on this
material.

LLoyd

you can usually flex it enough between your fingers to start the tear then
follow it down.
You will probably have to coil it up and rub the cut edges on some 220 grit
sandpaper. The edge will be dangerous.

I can pretty much guarantee that the grain runs the long way. It would take
some serious rollers to squeeze an 80" wide sheet down to .010 spring hard.

The next guess would be to use a rotary shear. You can adjust the blades
close enough that there is zero clearance, but feeding 80" would be a pain
in the ass.

Paul K. Dickman

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message . 3.70...
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?


Clamp it firmly between a couple lengths of rectangular flat bar, the bottom bar should be 6in wide, use whatever you have on hand for the top bar, which will be used mostly as a guide.

Then, make a "scrawker' out of a HSS or carbide lathe bit, or from a Stanley or Exacto knife or whatever...

--it should only take a few passes to score .010 brass deep enough to snap off easily

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...7pig KyooHACA

Otherwise, wrapping it around something and clamping it, perhaps with a two or three "Ideal" type hose clamp and then parting off on a lathe may work well also...be sure and clamp both the main coil AND the coil that you're parting off, otherwise you'll be in for a big surprprise.

"PrecisionmachinisT" fired this volley in
news:bMGdneS7RfCm5wfMnZ2dnUVZ_gudnZ2d@scnresearch. com:

Then, make a "scrawker' out of a HSS or carbide lathe bit,

Got one! I made one of those a long time ago from a power hacksaw blade,
for scoring plastics.

As far as parting it on the lathe, I have my cautions about that.
Partly, I don't know how it turns, and partly I see 'snagging' occurring
as it goes through the layers.

I think the general idea of scoring and snapping may be the safer one. I
could even put some abrasive paper on a nicely rectangular block, and
clean up the edge before removing the clamps.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley in
. 3.70:

As far as parting it on the lathe, I have my cautions about that.


Oh... and yeah... I already figured clamping on both sides of the cut might
be a smart idea G.

LLoyd

On May 20, 1:09*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd


..010 How about masking it and then etching . A wood trough lined
with plastic would work for something to etch it in. Look on the
internet for etching solution. Muratic acid and peroxide is one
solution you will find. Also vinegar , hydrogen peroxide and salt is
another. Just do not do the etching near your tools.


Dan

On Mon, 20 May 2013 12:09:40 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd

Lazer or water jet

Not too many other choices


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

" fired this volley in news:25adcaf7-
:

010 How about masking it and then etching . A wood trough lined
with plastic would work for something to etch it in. Look on the
internet for etching solution. Muratic acid and peroxide is one
solution you will find. Also vinegar , hydrogen peroxide and salt is
another. Just do not do the etching near your tools.


Woof! I've done 19"x19" PCBs in a home-made etching tray, but DAMN! 80
inches? I'm also thinking if I get any undercutting, it'll condemn the
'spring' after a few tens of thousands of flexes, and I need millions
from this (another reason for the length vs. travel).

I've seen .002" copper under-cut (badly), so I suspect .010 might, too.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
:

Can you run that through a pair of rollers to flatten it out? It
could even start the curve for the coil you want to make.



I guess I could find a roller. The sheared edge was also rough. We'd
have to dress it after flattening.

And we do not want it pre-curved. The purpose here is to keep it under
tension so that when it un-winds a little (about one turn on a 2.5" hub),
it stays flat-wound and self-supporting.

It's for a grounding strap on a rotary table. The table can only rotate
355 degrees, but house rules don't allow "wiper" type ground bonds in
this kind of environment. 'Has to be metal-to-metal and bonded with a
bolt.

The length of 80" was selected (stock sizes, so you picks what they
carries) because that allows the strip to unwind a minimal amount in
diameter with an approximately 10" length change.


You can't use a flat, tinned copper braid for a ground strap?

http://products.conwire.com/item/flat-tinned-copper-braid-2/flat-tinned-copper-braid/1393?&plpver=1001&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0

I tin the ends and drill a hole through the now solid area. I use RMA
flux, and clean it well but you can also crimp a lug on each end.

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
news
You can't use a flat, tinned copper braid for a ground strap?

I could, but there's no means to support the length of braid as it
uncoils. If it sags onto the fixed equipment, there will be a snag.

The ONLY reason we elected to go with the bronze is because in simple
tests, it would self-support from just one end for a distance of about
6" from the support point.

If we had any means whatsoever to prevent the coil from sagging when it
loosened, I'd be using stainless steel braid with crimped fixturing.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
news
You can't use a flat, tinned copper braid for a ground strap?

I could, but there's no means to support the length of braid as it
uncoils. If it sags onto the fixed equipment, there will be a snag.

The ONLY reason we elected to go with the bronze is because in simple
tests, it would self-support from just one end for a distance of about
6" from the support point.

If we had any means whatsoever to prevent the coil from sagging when it
loosened, I'd be using stainless steel braid with crimped fixturing.


Thin, half inch heat shrink or similar plastic tubing will keep it
from snagging. A small spring can hold up the center. There are plenty
of ways to do it.

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
m:

Thin, half inch heat shrink or similar plastic tubing will keep it
from snagging. A small spring can hold up the center. There are
plenty
of ways to do it.

You'd have to see the design, which I cannot show you. The spring is nix
for problems of mounting and movement, and PVC in any form is not
permitted.

Believe me when I say we explored that possibility at length.

LLoyd

BQ340 fired this volley in news:519aba11$0$9534
:

Would a spring itself work instead of a flat piece?


No, but again, we studied that. No way to meet the hazard requirements
and also fit it into the available space.

LLoyd

On 5/20/2013 13:09, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd



Reading further down for the intended use, how about stainless shim
stock? Comes in various thickness, in 1/2" wide rolls. Probably can even
find blue temper spring steel in the same geometry.

--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

On May 20, 6:02*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:


The ONLY reason we elected to go with the bronze is because in simple
tests, it would self-support from just one end for a distance of about
6" from the support point.


Lloyd


How about the guts of a tape measure?

Dan

On May 20, 5:01*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Woof! *I've done 19"x19" PCBs in a home-made etching tray, but DAMN! *80
inches?

19 by 19 is 361 square inches. 6 x 80 ils is 480 so not all that
much bigger.

*I'm also thinking if I get any undercutting, it'll condemn the
'spring' after a few tens of thousands of flexes, and I need millions
from this (another reason for the length vs. travel).

I've seen .002" copper under-cut (badly), so I suspect .010 might, too.

Lloyd

I would presume you etch from both sides , so it is as if it were
only .005. But you are right. You might have to make the pieces a
bit wider, rolll the piece up and sand the edges. One experiment
would show you how much of a problem undercutting presents.


Dan

On 5/20/2013 10:09 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Ok, 'solutions guys'...

I have some 0.010" phosphor bronze (spring temper) in rolls 6" wide x
80" long.

I need to cleanly slit some 3/8" strips x 80" from this without any edge
distortion.

We tried taking one a sheet metal house that had a long scissor-type
shear, and it cut it, but also curled the edge too much for our
application. It has to wind flat in a coil when finished.

I've tried sheet metal hand shears without much joy, a nibbler just chews
it, and sawing it on anything we've got is impossible.

We must not heat it. Also cost is an issue, or I'd have it done at a
waterjet and laser house down the road, but they want a couple-hundred
just to set up a job. For only five strips, that's not in budget.

A virgin roll has perfect edges, and rolls tightly. The mill that makes
the rolls from larger sheet stock cannot go narrower than 1".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Lloyd
Is this the same spring bronze that is used as weatherstripping for
wooden doors and windows?

Paul

" fired this volley in news:f2783117-
:


How about the guts of a tape measure?

nah... for other reasons given before.

Lloyd

BQ340 fired this volley in news:519ac9f9$0$9480
:

I don't have my familiar reference book at home to check, but
books.google.com/books?isbn=0871707268 page 79 claims roll slitting
will
not distort the edge of hard bronze.

Ok... have a roll slitter just sitting around (in 3/8" width roll-to-roll
spacing)?

The mill that does the conversion doesn't, and they're a high-volume
cutter.

LLoyd

Paul Drahn fired this volley in news:knehg8$cl0$1
@dont-email.me:

Is this the same spring bronze that is used as weatherstripping for
wooden doors and windows?


I don't know, but that's an interesting proposition. I wonder if it's
available un-punched, and without a felt embedded in one edge?

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley
in . 3.70:

Paul Drahn fired this volley in
news:knehg8$cl0$1 @dont-email.me:

Is this the same spring bronze that is used as weatherstripping for
wooden doors and windows?

Checking, the narrowest it's commonly available is 1-1/8", and it's
always pre-formed... I don't know if the bend would interfere or not, but
the width would.

Lloyd

On Mon, 20 May 2013 19:13:26 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
news
You can't use a flat, tinned copper braid for a ground strap?

I could, but there's no means to support the length of braid as it
uncoils. If it sags onto the fixed equipment, there will be a snag.

The ONLY reason we elected to go with the bronze is because in simple
tests, it would self-support from just one end for a distance of about
6" from the support point.

If we had any means whatsoever to prevent the coil from sagging when it
loosened, I'd be using stainless steel braid with crimped fixturing.


Thin, half inch heat shrink or similar plastic tubing will keep it
from snagging. A small spring can hold up the center. There are plenty
of ways to do it.

I agree


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

Paul K. Dickman wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Paul K. Dickman" fired this volley in
:

Try scoring it with a razor knife or one of those hooked blades you
use to score Plexiglas.

I have found that, once you have a score line, spring bronze tears
pretty easy in the direction of the grain.

There's an idea we haven't tried. We thought of scoring it, but also
thought the way to break the score would be by brake-bending... never
thought of _tearing_ it. Hmmm...

Now I've got to figure out if the grain runs the long way on this
material.

LLoyd

you can usually flex it enough between your fingers to start the tear then
follow it down.
You will probably have to coil it up and rub the cut edges on some 220 grit
sandpaper. The edge will be dangerous.

I can pretty much guarantee that the grain runs the long way. It would take
some serious rollers to squeeze an 80" wide sheet down to .010 spring hard.

The next guess would be to use a rotary shear. You can adjust the blades
close enough that there is zero clearance, but feeding 80" would be a pain
in the ass.

Paul K. Dickman




A rotary slitter would do the whole six inch wide piece in one shot.
Each cutting wheel is set for your width which is matched to the proper
shim on the bottom cutting bar. If I remember the spacing between
cutting wheels is usually half the thickness of the metal.
The cutting wheels alternate from top to the bottom roller with spacers
between each cutting wheel. I used to make cutting wheels for the
company next door to me but they have since sold their business and are
no longer there. I do have a bunch of cutters but without the machine
they are of no use.

http://www.iksinc.com/rotaryslitter.html



John