Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 06:08:37 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Steve W." fired this volley in news:kie5ie$j23$1
:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx5F1jUFySM

'course, with all those old gouging rods he has lying around unused, he
could make a _real_ carbon-pile dummy load...

Lloyd

I do have about 40 lbs of carbon gouging rods. Bit hard to solder them
together though. Could make a couple plates with holes and set
screws though...G

are these carbon rods something that can be used to make a carbon arc
lamp?

Cydrome Leader fired this volley in news:kiffcg
:

are these carbon rods something that can be used to make a carbon arc
lamp?

Well, considering that their purpose in life is to make an... uh...
Carbon Arc... Yeah, I'd guess you could.

I don't know what effect the cladding has, but it's easily removed.

(you got the voltage-actuated servos all built?)
Lloyd

On Mar 21, 1:54*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well, considering that their purpose in life is to make an... uh...
Carbon Arc... Yeah, I'd guess you could.

I don't know what effect the cladding has, but it's easily removed.


Lloyd

The cladding is copper. it burns off at the arc end and serves to
reduce the resistance so the power is in the arc, not in conducting
thru the rod.

Dan

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 06:47:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Mar 21, 2:26Â*am, Gunner wrote:


Cool! Â*Got a link?

Gunner

Google on morse code decoder. Here is one link I found.

http://download.cnet.com/CW-Decoder/...-75325058.html

Dan

Thanks!

Gunner

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 09:22:23 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner fired this volley in
:

Bit hard to solder them
together though.

'bit useless, too. Think about it. IF not all, then most of the copper
cladding would have to be removed...

Lloyd


VBG Yes, I know. VBG

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 17:18:08 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 06:08:37 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Steve W." fired this volley in news:kie5ie$j23$1
:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx5F1jUFySM

'course, with all those old gouging rods he has lying around unused, he
could make a _real_ carbon-pile dummy load...

Lloyd

I do have about 40 lbs of carbon gouging rods. Bit hard to solder them
together though. Could make a couple plates with holes and set
screws though...G

are these carbon rods something that can be used to make a carbon arc
lamp?

I actually do have some of those unclad carbons too IRRC .

Want to make a lamp for the Blitz?

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 09:50:11 -0700, mike wrote:

On 3/20/2013 3:30 AM, Gunner wrote:
Ive been doing the online tests for the Technician exam. Of the 6
times Ive taken the sample exams...I passed it 5 times. Of the 4 times
Ive taken the online sample General exam..Ive passed it twice.

This without any study.

I was a ham nearly 40 yrs ago..and we didnt have FM or packet radio
etc etc and there was a CW portion (Thank Crom its gone!)

I picked up a Kenwood TS-530SE transiever in the last load of Stuff
from that mini-storage clean out along with a couple boxes of other
radio Stuff. The radio turns on..and gives me a hiss out of the
onboard speaker..but I dont get any signals on the old long wire
antenna Ive got up..so there are Issues. Ive downloaded the
schematics..gonna make me think and at my age...relearning board
repair is gonna really hurt. Got all the gear for checking it out
though..Tektronics scope, Tektronics freq counter, Tektronics VOM etc
etc...mil surp RF generator...all the proper Stuff. Everything except
a dummy load.

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

Btw..Im up to my ass in scopes if anybody needs a couple or 3. I
think Ive got 5-6 up on the shelf and I certainly dont need that many.
One for the service truck, one for the bench, a spare and Im good.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

I haven't taken a ham test in 40 years, but, as I recall, it's a lot
like a driver's license test. Not much about whether you can drive
a car, but mostly about knowing the rules.

The electronics is trivial for anybody with any experience at all.
But it's useful to practice the questions so you can interpret what they
really ask.

As for the dummy load, what are you gonna do with it.
If all you want to do is see power, a light bulb works fine.
If your emissions are in the band and used under the terms of
your license, you're good to go. Just pick a dead spot in the band
and keep it short.

The complexity goes up from there. Go to any ham swap meet and you'll
probably find a boatload of dummy loads for sale. Just take the meter
and
check the resistance. Hams are people... and people can't be trusted
to tell you that it's blown.

There are zillions of nice resistors mounted on big heat sinks used
as circulator loads and in cellular base stations. Those show up
at swap meets in the 100W range for $15 or so. Nice, small, no oil,
excellent high frequency characteristics. But take the meter.

Ham radio is just like any hobby. If you're impatient, you'll spend
a lot of money. If you troll the swap meets and garage sales, you
can pick up most stuff dirt cheap. Be patient. Go to ham club meetings.

Ham radio is mostly dead for reasons stated elsewhere in the thread.
Every damn QSO is about the weather, the rig, then nothing left to
talk about. Interweb news groups are much more entertaining these days.

You'll have more fun talking to locals on the uhf frequencies.


http://www.eham.net/articles/23108

The ARRL site indicates its been a banner couple years as well.

Thanks for the info btw. Not a lot of hams in my neck of the woods,
though there are some. I just need to find them.


Gunner

"GunnerAsch" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the info btw. Not a lot of hams in my neck of the woods,
though there are some. I just need to find them.
Gunner

No ham flea markets like we have?
http://near-fest.com/

http://w1mx.mit.edu/flea-at-mit

jsw

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 18:39:28 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"GunnerAsch" wrote in message
.. .

Thanks for the info btw. Not a lot of hams in my neck of the woods,
though there are some. I just need to find them.
Gunner

No ham flea markets like we have?
http://near-fest.com/

http://w1mx.mit.edu/flea-at-mit

jsw


Probably one or two down in the LA area..but thats 150 miles away.

Ill check into it and maybe stay over on a Saturday if I ever get some
money.

Out here in the West...we are a bit more spread out than on the East
Coast.....VBG...just a bit more...

Thanks

Gunner

Remember the local 'react' or disaster group are Hams.
They set up when earthquakes take out cell towers and break
land lines and microwave lines.

Ham club and react teams are common here in Texas.

Martin

On 3/21/2013 5:28 PM, GunnerAsch wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 09:50:11 -0700, mike wrote:

On 3/20/2013 3:30 AM, Gunner wrote:
Ive been doing the online tests for the Technician exam. Of the 6
times Ive taken the sample exams...I passed it 5 times. Of the 4 times
Ive taken the online sample General exam..Ive passed it twice.

This without any study.

I was a ham nearly 40 yrs ago..and we didnt have FM or packet radio
etc etc and there was a CW portion (Thank Crom its gone!)

I picked up a Kenwood TS-530SE transiever in the last load of Stuff
from that mini-storage clean out along with a couple boxes of other
radio Stuff. The radio turns on..and gives me a hiss out of the
onboard speaker..but I dont get any signals on the old long wire
antenna Ive got up..so there are Issues. Ive downloaded the
schematics..gonna make me think and at my age...relearning board
repair is gonna really hurt. Got all the gear for checking it out
though..Tektronics scope, Tektronics freq counter, Tektronics VOM etc
etc...mil surp RF generator...all the proper Stuff. Everything except
a dummy load.

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

Btw..Im up to my ass in scopes if anybody needs a couple or 3. I
think Ive got 5-6 up on the shelf and I certainly dont need that many.
One for the service truck, one for the bench, a spare and Im good.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

I haven't taken a ham test in 40 years, but, as I recall, it's a lot
like a driver's license test. Not much about whether you can drive
a car, but mostly about knowing the rules.

The electronics is trivial for anybody with any experience at all.
But it's useful to practice the questions so you can interpret what they
really ask.

As for the dummy load, what are you gonna do with it.
If all you want to do is see power, a light bulb works fine.
If your emissions are in the band and used under the terms of
your license, you're good to go. Just pick a dead spot in the band
and keep it short.

The complexity goes up from there. Go to any ham swap meet and you'll
probably find a boatload of dummy loads for sale. Just take the meter
and
check the resistance. Hams are people... and people can't be trusted
to tell you that it's blown.

There are zillions of nice resistors mounted on big heat sinks used
as circulator loads and in cellular base stations. Those show up
at swap meets in the 100W range for $15 or so. Nice, small, no oil,
excellent high frequency characteristics. But take the meter.

Ham radio is just like any hobby. If you're impatient, you'll spend
a lot of money. If you troll the swap meets and garage sales, you
can pick up most stuff dirt cheap. Be patient. Go to ham club meetings.

Ham radio is mostly dead for reasons stated elsewhere in the thread.
Every damn QSO is about the weather, the rig, then nothing left to
talk about. Interweb news groups are much more entertaining these days.

You'll have more fun talking to locals on the uhf frequencies.


http://www.eham.net/articles/23108

The ARRL site indicates its been a banner couple years as well.

Thanks for the info btw. Not a lot of hams in my neck of the woods,
though there are some. I just need to find them.


Gunner

I'd try one in an etching tank. Dissolve the copper off.

Plate it onto something you want copper plated.

Martin

On 3/21/2013 4:54 PM, wrote:
On Mar 21, 1:54 pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well, considering that their purpose in life is to make an... uh...
Carbon Arc... Yeah, I'd guess you could.

I don't know what effect the cladding has, but it's easily removed.


Lloyd

The cladding is copper. it burns off at the arc end and serves to
reduce the resistance so the power is in the arc, not in conducting
thru the rod.

Dan

I used to use a high power carbon pile in the labs.

Big and larger than 4 lunch boxes. The carbon is compressed or
released to change the resistance.

I think 50 ohm would be a bit hard to come by. Ours was 1 ohm.

Martin

On 3/21/2013 5:24 PM, GunnerAsch wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 17:18:08 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 06:08:37 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Steve W." fired this volley in news:kie5ie$j23$1
@dont-email.me:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx5F1jUFySM

'course, with all those old gouging rods he has lying around unused, he
could make a _real_ carbon-pile dummy load...

Lloyd

I do have about 40 lbs of carbon gouging rods. Bit hard to solder them
together though. Could make a couple plates with holes and set
screws though...G

are these carbon rods something that can be used to make a carbon arc
lamp?

I actually do have some of those unclad carbons too IRRC .

Want to make a lamp for the Blitz?

GunnerAsch wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 17:18:08 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 06:08:37 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Steve W." fired this volley in news:kie5ie$j23$1
@dont-email.me:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx5F1jUFySM
'course, with all those old gouging rods he has lying around unused, he
could make a _real_ carbon-pile dummy load...

Lloyd
I do have about 40 lbs of carbon gouging rods. Bit hard to solder them
together though. Could make a couple plates with holes and set
screws though...G
are these carbon rods something that can be used to make a carbon arc
lamp?

I actually do have some of those unclad carbons too IRRC .

Want to make a lamp for the Blitz?



The unclad ones work good to make a water purification unit. Basically you use two of them
held a set distance apart in a tub of water and fed with 110 or 220 AC to generate
steam. Small version is sold as a humidifier/cold remedy in many drug/department stores.
They actually work pretty well as steam generators but if you have hard water they build
up really fast.



I have an MFJ 260 air cooled load on the bench. 300 watts for 30 seconds, has a Stackpole
50 ohm 10% hollow carbon rod. Measures about 1/2" diameter with a 1/4" hole in the center
and about 6" long.
Ends look like they are copper or similar dipped. The ends clip into a pair of holders,
one insulated with a ceramic stand off and the other contacts the case for a ground.


--
Steve W.

On 2013-03-21, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.


You're about two days late with that suggestion, Don G.

I must have missed that.

Remember the Heath "CanTenna"?

Certainly -- that was what I thought I was describing -- and I
thought that I actually mentioned thst by name and/or company, too.
(Perhaps in another branch of the thread.)

At up to 10M, the light bulb works as an OK load, if not completely
'tunable' Add one small air-wound coil and a few puffs of capacitance,
and it can tune darned well.

O.K. I was wondering what frequency range a light bulb would
work for.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

An interesting story my dad had was when he was designing Radar systems
at White Sands - they used dummy array antennas until the unit checked out.

Dad used 1000 watt light bulbs - 100 at a time. He ran through 1000 a
week for about 6 weeks. Then they went to the large antenna.

The funny part was the purchasing officer kept ordering the bulbs!

They caught that pretty quick! - Thankfully they used the bulbs on the
base already.

I'll have to check out the large 'sun gun' lamps I have - see what
resistance they have cold. I don't have a holder for hot.

They are 10" long as I recall. I'll try to see what they have.

Martin

On 3/21/2013 9:20 PM, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2013-03-21, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in
:

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.


You're about two days late with that suggestion, Don G.

I must have missed that.

Remember the Heath "CanTenna"?

Certainly -- that was what I thought I was describing -- and I
thought that I actually mentioned thst by name and/or company, too.
(Perhaps in another branch of the thread.)

At up to 10M, the light bulb works as an OK load, if not completely
'tunable' Add one small air-wound coil and a few puffs of capacitance,
and it can tune darned well.

O.K. I was wondering what frequency range a light bulb would
work for.

Enjoy,
DoN.

"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...
I'd try one in an etching tank. Dissolve the copper off.

Plate it onto something you want copper plated.

Martin

Then you have to quickly wash ALL the etchant out of the porous,
absorbent carbon, especially that which is trapped under the end
sleeves.
jsw

"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...
I used to use a high power carbon pile in the labs.

Big and larger than 4 lunch boxes. The carbon is compressed or
released to change the resistance.

I think 50 ohm would be a bit hard to come by. Ours was 1 ohm.

Martin

I just measured a piece of carbon fiber insulation about .75" x 1.5" x
10" long at under 2 Ohms.
jsw

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

O.K. I was wondering what frequency range a light bulb would
work for.

Enjoy,
DoN.

http://www.hayseed.net/~jpk5lad/K5LA...riesVol-15.htm
Check it with an SWR meter.

If anyone has a spare Network Analyzer they don't need I could measure
the frequency response of a bulb.
http://www.dennlec.com/store/product...products_id=33

I sent several million dollars worth of them plus a 13" South Bend
lathe to government surplus, but couldn't qualify to bid on any of it.
jsw

On 03/21/2013 05:28 PM, GunnerAsch wrote:


Thanks for the info btw. Not a lot of hams in my neck of the woods,
though there are some. I just need to find them.


http://www.arrl.org/hamfests/search
(select California, hit search)

4 or 5 scheduled this year. Maybe see what
is scheduled in Aridzona, or Nevada.



technomaNge
--
Three boxes of citizenship: "the ballot box, the jury box,
and the cartridge box."
Frederick Douglass, in his memoir, 1892 .

What is the wattage ? - sure I can buy drafting pencils from
6h to 6b. The B's are softer and more carbon and less clay.
The clay and wax binds them together.

If one makes a pencil line of very soft pencil and makes it
twice as long it would double the resistance. Make it twice as wide
and it would half and so on.

The welding sticks (I have some Gunner sold/gave me.

As they heat, pencils will boil off the wax and become harder and fragile.

Martin

On 3/22/2013 6:41 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Martin Eastburn" wrote in message
...
I used to use a high power carbon pile in the labs.

Big and larger than 4 lunch boxes. The carbon is compressed or
released to change the resistance.

I think 50 ohm would be a bit hard to come by. Ours was 1 ohm.

Martin

I just measured a piece of carbon fiber insulation about .75" x 1.5" x
10" long at under 2 Ohms.
jsw

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 22:27:25 -0500, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

What is the wattage ? - sure I can buy drafting pencils from
6h to 6b. The B's are softer and more carbon and less clay.
The clay and wax binds them together.

If one makes a pencil line of very soft pencil and makes it
twice as long it would double the resistance. Make it twice as wide
and it would half and so on.

The welding sticks (I have some Gunner sold/gave me.

When was that? Before 2009 when I had the stroke?

My memory really has some big holes in it. I have to watch my step
really close else Ill fall in and forget where I was and its cold and
lonely down in some of those holes....

G

On Mar 21, 6:28*pm, GunnerAsch wrote:


Thanks for the info btw. *Not a lot of hams in my neck of the woods,
though there are some. I just need to find them.

Gunner

QRZ has a database of all the hams. You can search by county. Or you
can just put in CA, and it will return a list of all the counties in
Calif. with how many hams are in each county.


Dan

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...

My memory really has some big holes in it. I have to watch my step
really close else Ill fall in and forget where I was and its cold
and
lonely down in some of those holes....

G

Watch out especially for the one surrounded by well-dressed relatives.

On Sat, 23 Mar 2013 10:36:40 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .

My memory really has some big holes in it. I have to watch my step
really close else Ill fall in and forget where I was and its cold
and
lonely down in some of those holes....

G

Watch out especially for the one surrounded by well-dressed relatives.


Im avoiding that one for at least 200 more years.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf


--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week.

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug

Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.

Gunner

On Mar 24, 12:39*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"









wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

* * * * Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

* * * * The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. *But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

* * * * Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? *Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? *The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.

* Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug

Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.

Gunner

Suggest you buy a CB radio. It's much closer to your level of
intelligence.

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?


Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that would
have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a couple dozen
ass hats.


--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week.

On 3/25/2013 7:27 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburghlloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?


Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that would
have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a couple dozen
ass hats.


Ham radio is like any other hobby. Patience and some sweat equity in the
equipment...or "buy it now".
If you want something specific, you'll end up paying more than if you
snap up the "door buster" at the swapmeet.

I'd recommend against tube equipment...unless it's dirt cheap and the
tubes are good. The stuff usually falls into two categories...
junk stripped for parts
and
collector's items fixed using those stripped parts.
Neither is a good deal if you just want to communicate.

If you have any hams in your area, you may be able to borrow something
to get your feet wet while you wait for the big score.

On Mon, 25 Mar 2013 10:27:27 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?

It turns on, the controls work, I have a hissing sound from the
speaker and it receives a signal from my signal generator. But even on
a long wire antenna..no outside signals make it in. Ive got to pump up
the output of the old signal generator to hear it or have it show on
the meter.


Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that would
have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a couple dozen
ass hats.

Technican class stuff for a year, then general class. I might..might
be able to pass the code test in a year if I work on it..so I might
shoot for that. But...PSK is interesting to me as is rtty

Gunner

On Mon, 25 Mar 2013 07:59:00 -0700, mike wrote:

On 3/25/2013 7:27 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburghlloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?


Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that would
have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a couple dozen
ass hats.


Ham radio is like any other hobby. Patience and some sweat equity in the
equipment...or "buy it now".
If you want something specific, you'll end up paying more than if you
snap up the "door buster" at the swapmeet.

I'd recommend against tube equipment...unless it's dirt cheap and the
tubes are good. The stuff usually falls into two categories...
junk stripped for parts
and
collector's items fixed using those stripped parts.
Neither is a good deal if you just want to communicate.

pretty much my thoughts.

If you have any hams in your area, you may be able to borrow something
to get your feet wet while you wait for the big score.

I never borrow. It causes problems

Gunner

On Mar 25, 7:20*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:



Technican class stuff for a year, then general class. *I might..might
be able to pass the code test in a year if I work on it..so I might
shoot for that. But...PSK is interesting to me as is rtty

Gunner

Look at www.QRZ. It has all the questions used on all the ham
tests.

First find out when and where you can take the tests. Then start
going to QRZ everyday and take one or more practice tests. You may
have a month or so before you can take the tests. I do not know how
it is everywhere, but back in Washington State it was one cost
regardless of how many tests you took. Since I had a month or so
before i could take the tests, I just practised all the tests. And
then when I took the tests, i just took them all. No point in just
taking the technician class test.

Incidentally there is no more requirement to take a code test. So you
do not need to work on that.


Dan

On Mar 25, 6:23*pm, " wrote:
On Mar 25, 7:20*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:

Technican class stuff for a year, then general class. *I might..might
be able to pass the code test in a year if I work on it..so I might
shoot for that. But...PSK is interesting to me as is rtty

Gunner

Look atwww.QRZ. *It has all the questions used on all the ham
tests.

First find out when and where you can take the tests. *Then start
going to QRZ everyday and take one or more practice tests. *You may
have a month or so before you can take the tests. *I do not know how
it is everywhere, but back in Washington State it was one cost
regardless of how many tests you took. *Since I had a month or so
before i could take the tests, I just practised all the tests. *And
then when I took the tests, i just took them all. *No point in just
taking the technician class test.

Incidentally there is no more requirement to take a code test. So you
do not need to work on that.

Dan

"Incidentally there is no more requirement to take a code test"

That should insure plenty of lids to keep Wieber company.

On Mar 25, 7:27*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

* * * * Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

* * * * The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. *But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

* * * * Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? *Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? *The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.

* Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug

* *What kinds of issues?

Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.

* *What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? *Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?

* *There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that would
have a lot more help for you. *Just be ready to kill file a couple dozen
ass hats.

--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

* *Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week.


How soon before Wieber claims he's louder than this guy on 80 meters?

http://www.smeter.net/7j4aal/antennas.php

mike wrote:

On 3/25/2013 7:27 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburghlloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?


Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that
would have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a
couple dozen ass hats.

Ham radio is like any other hobby. Patience and some sweat equity in
the equipment...or "buy it now".
If you want something specific, you'll end up paying more than if you
snap up the "door buster" at the swapmeet.

I'd recommend against tube equipment...unless it's dirt cheap and the
tubes are good. The stuff usually falls into two categories...
junk stripped for parts and collector's items fixed using those
stripped parts.


Some of us cut our teeth on that old tube gear. Some of that group
can still take a piece of sheet metal, and build a radio around it from
scratch. I enjoy repairing old gear, and have since the mid '60s. I
built my first radio from a kit when I was eight. This approach isn't
for everyone, but some of us have experience from '20s radios, all the
way to DSP based deep space telemetry equipment.


Neither is a good deal if you just want to communicate.

If you have any hams in your area, you may be able to borrow
something to get your feet wet while you wait for the big score.


You have to be kidding. This area is all appliance operators who
bought imported radios when they retired & moved south. They can't even
solder a mic plug. I doubt it's much better where Gunner lives. I know
a former broadcast engineer in his area, and he can't even buy repair
parts where he lives. He couldn't even find a decent video cable with
BNC connectors.

--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week.

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 25 Mar 2013 10:27:27 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?

It turns on, the controls work, I have a hissing sound from the
speaker and it receives a signal from my signal generator. But even on
a long wire antenna..no outside signals make it in. Ive got to pump up
the output of the old signal generator to hear it or have it show on
the meter.


Do you have a manual with the schematic?




Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that would
have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a couple dozen
ass hats.

Technican class stuff for a year, then general class. I might..might
be able to pass the code test in a year if I work on it..so I might
shoot for that. But...PSK is interesting to me as is rtty


I am interested in higher frequency gear. I had my fill of HF when I
was a broadcast engineer. I was working with FQPSK at up to 11 GHz when
I was laid off at Microdyne and ended up being declared disabled.


--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week.

On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 00:12:02 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


mike wrote:

On 3/25/2013 7:27 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburghlloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?


Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that
would have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a
couple dozen ass hats.

Ham radio is like any other hobby. Patience and some sweat equity in
the equipment...or "buy it now".
If you want something specific, you'll end up paying more than if you
snap up the "door buster" at the swapmeet.

I'd recommend against tube equipment...unless it's dirt cheap and the
tubes are good. The stuff usually falls into two categories...
junk stripped for parts and collector's items fixed using those
stripped parts.


Some of us cut our teeth on that old tube gear. Some of that group
can still take a piece of sheet metal, and build a radio around it from
scratch. I enjoy repairing old gear, and have since the mid '60s. I
built my first radio from a kit when I was eight. This approach isn't
for everyone, but some of us have experience from '20s radios, all the
way to DSP based deep space telemetry equipment.


Neither is a good deal if you just want to communicate.

If you have any hams in your area, you may be able to borrow
something to get your feet wet while you wait for the big score.


You have to be kidding. This area is all appliance operators who
bought imported radios when they retired & moved south. They can't even
solder a mic plug. I doubt it's much better where Gunner lives. I know
a former broadcast engineer in his area, and he can't even buy repair
parts where he lives. He couldn't even find a decent video cable with
BNC connectors.

I generally make up all my own cables. I know where to find them..but
most are Chinese with a few rare US fabbers..but they (US) cost an
arm and a leg.

Like DVM/VOM probes. You can buy decent US made ones for $15 and
up..sometimes way up

http://www.probemaster.com/product_i...198&CDpath =4

Or reasonably useful Chinese made leads for $2.95

Ive got a carefully horded collection of Amp PL-259 and BNC male and
matching females...a number of US manufactures made them. And I only
use them when I absolutely dont trust an import.

Gunner

On Mon, 25 Mar 2013 18:23:58 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Mar 25, 7:20Â*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:



Technican class stuff for a year, then general class. Â*I might..might
be able to pass the code test in a year if I work on it..so I might
shoot for that. But...PSK is interesting to me as is rtty

Gunner

Look at www.QRZ. It has all the questions used on all the ham
tests.

First find out when and where you can take the tests. Then start
going to QRZ everyday and take one or more practice tests. You may
have a month or so before you can take the tests. I do not know how
it is everywhere, but back in Washington State it was one cost
regardless of how many tests you took. Since I had a month or so
before i could take the tests, I just practised all the tests. And
then when I took the tests, i just took them all. No point in just
taking the technician class test.

Incidentally there is no more requirement to take a code test. So you
do not need to work on that.


Dan


Ayup, I may do just that. I did have a Conditional..way the **** back
when in the late 1960s..but I let it lapse almost 50 yrs ago. Blink
blink...why do I suddenly feel....really old....? Brrrrr

Shrug...

Gunner

On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 00:17:01 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 25 Mar 2013 10:27:27 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?

An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.

Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.


Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug


What kinds of issues?

It turns on, the controls work, I have a hissing sound from the
speaker and it receives a signal from my signal generator. But even on
a long wire antenna..no outside signals make it in. Ive got to pump up
the output of the old signal generator to hear it or have it show on
the meter.


Do you have a manual with the schematic?

No. Im searching for one now. There are a number of TS-520
manuals..but the SE version..the last version before they phased out
that model is no where to be found. I did download an operators manual
for the TS-520...but I need to sit down with the radio and learn
everything and then ask what differences there are between it and the
SE version.

Id love to put a freq counter on it..but one just went on Ebay for
$150. There is a 2 pin female on the backside for a display..but I
dont know what it requires to run/operate. Im sure something could be
bread boarded up quite simply, but..Im not an electronics tech. I just
kinda swerve into that area now and then fixing CNC machines etc.
Mostly though..simply a board changer. Its been a lot of years since
I chased electrons around..and then it was usually in and out of tubes






Tube radio would be fine, but something a bit more easy to operate
would be far better for me. IE..digital freq display etc etc or the
ability to add one...

Thanks for pondering on it.



What bands are you interested in? 160/80/40/20/15/10/6/2 Meters
432/1296 MHz 10.5 GHz? Modes? CW/AM/SSB/FM/ATV? Power level?


There are a bunch of news:rec.radio.amateur newsgroups that would
have a lot more help for you. Just be ready to kill file a couple dozen
ass hats.

Technican class stuff for a year, then general class. I might..might
be able to pass the code test in a year if I work on it..so I might
shoot for that. But...PSK is interesting to me as is rtty


I am interested in higher frequency gear. I had my fill of HF when I
was a broadcast engineer. I was working with FQPSK at up to 11 GHz when
I was laid off at Microdyne and ended up being declared disabled.


Then you wont have ANY issues other than knowing rules and regs if you
take theTechnicians exam. Thats a given for your knowledge base. I
passed the techy exam the 5 out of 6 example exams..the first time I
took em and only choked up on the rules parts. And Im not an
electronics tech..though I have a tiny bit of experience with letting
the smoke out..and figuring out why it happened.

http://www.eham.net/exams/

is just one such source. There are many out there.


Gunner

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 00:17:01 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 25 Mar 2013 10:27:27 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:51:54 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2013-03-20, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Anyone got a 50 ohm, 100 watt dummy load collecting dust I can
swap/trade for?
An incandescent lamp isn't perfect, but works.
Even better -- mount it in a gallon paint can, with a good RF
connector in the lid -- and oil inside to carry the heat from the lamp
to the walls of the can for cooling.

The higher the frequency, the more that lamp will differ from
the proper impedance -- with all those little curly Tungsten wires as
the filament. But the can will at least keep the RF from radiating.
The main risk with a poor impedance match would be damage to the final
of the transmitter.

Anyone ever have a Heathkit "Cantenna"? Was it an array of
carbon resistors in oil, or an incandescent lamp? The former would be
more constant impedance, at least.

Don, they used a 200 watt 50 ohm carborundum non-inductive oil
treated resistor immersed in transformer oil.
http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf
Can anyone suggest an inexpensive radio for Technician class?

Ive been told that the Icom 706, the Yaesu 817 and 857s would fit my
needs..but they are more ..in some cases...far far more expensive than
I can afford this year.

The TS-520SE that I have has some "issues" that Im going to need to
resolve over time, as Im not a board level radio tech and its going to
be a learning experience...shrug

What kinds of issues?
It turns on, the controls work, I have a hissing sound from the
speaker and it receives a signal from my signal generator. But even on
a long wire antenna..no outside signals make it in. Ive got to pump up
the output of the old signal generator to hear it or have it show on
the meter.

Do you have a manual with the schematic?

No. Im searching for one now. There are a number of TS-520
manuals..but the SE version..the last version before they phased out
that model is no where to be found. I did download an operators manual
for the TS-520...but I need to sit down with the radio and learn
everything and then ask what differences there are between it and the
SE version.

Id love to put a freq counter on it..but one just went on Ebay for
$150. There is a 2 pin female on the backside for a display..but I
dont know what it requires to run/operate. Im sure something could be
bread boarded up quite simply, but..Im not an electronics tech. I just
kinda swerve into that area now and then fixing CNC machines etc.
Mostly though..simply a board changer. Its been a lot of years since
I chased electrons around..and then it was usually in and out of tubes



Look on the rear on the radio. You should find a 9 pin socket for the external VFO
If it doesn't have the shorting plug you wont have receive. If no plug you need to install
a jumper across pins 8&9.

Sent you a link to a partial service manual.

The SE was the same as the 520 S Except Kenwood pulled the transverter section and the 12
volt power inputs. They cleaned up the boards some and added a wide/narrow CW filter.

--
Steve W.