I have a Husky upright, not the great big one, but the one about chest high.
Two cyl compressor. I bled the tank today, and got water and a white milky
oily fluid. Checked the dipstick, and it is low. I'll get some Husky oil
today and fill. Do you think I damaged the compressor? Is the white oil in
the tank normal?

TIA

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .
I have a Husky upright, not the great big one, but the one about chest
high. Two cyl compressor. I bled the tank today, and got water and a white
milky oily fluid. Checked the dipstick, and it is low. I'll get some
Husky oil today and fill. Do you think I damaged the compressor? Is the
white oil in the tank normal?


Yes it is normal, and no you probably didn't hurt the compressor unless the
oil level had dropped below the oil slinger on the bottom of the connecting
rod cap.

Also, there's nothing special about compressor oil--the overwhelming
majority will be perfectly happy with straight 30 wt non-detergent just like
is used in lawnmowers etc, just don't use the wrong weight ( or a multi
viscosity oil ) because the oil distribution system is based upon known oil
properties as well as crankshaft speed.

That white liquid is condensate mixed with a small amount of oil, the amount
generated will depend on total compressor run time and outside humidity.

Actual oil consumption is dependant solely upon run time ( discounting worn
out piston rings ).....What this means is you might go several months
without having to add oil as long as usage is light....

--but if all a sudden you spend an entire day constantly using an air die
grinder or some such then you can almost bet that the oil needs topped off.

By the way, if it has a cast iron pump unit then it is most likely the same
one that's used on compressors offered by a very large number of different
"manufacturers"

http://tinyurl.com/3ekbmkr

Also, there's nothing special about compressor oil--the overwhelming
majority will be perfectly happy with straight 30 wt non-detergent just
like is used in lawnmowers etc, just don't use the wrong weight ( or a
multi viscosity oil ) because the oil distribution system is based upon
known oil properties as well as crankshaft speed.

....My big 3-phase monster takes Mobil-1 10W-30 Synthetic. Which Dayton
charges $29 per quart for or something like that.

You can't imagine how ****ed off I was when the UPS package showed up with
my compressor oil and it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the auto parts store
at that price...
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022 x113
01.908.542.0244
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-HQ.com
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill


V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Also, there's nothing special about compressor oil--the overwhelming
majority will be perfectly happy with straight 30 wt non-detergent just
like is used in lawnmowers etc, just don't use the wrong weight ( or a
multi viscosity oil ) because the oil distribution system is based upon
known oil properties as well as crankshaft speed.

...My big 3-phase monster takes Mobil-1 10W-30 Synthetic. Which Dayton
charges $29 per quart for or something like that.

You can't imagine how ****ed off I was when the UPS package showed up with
my compressor oil and it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the auto parts store
at that price...

Ouch. Mobil-1 is definitely good oil though, I use it in most
everything.

"Pete C." writes:

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Also, there's nothing special about compressor oil--the overwhelming
majority will be perfectly happy with straight 30 wt non-detergent just
like is used in lawnmowers etc, just don't use the wrong weight ( or a
multi viscosity oil ) because the oil distribution system is based upon
known oil properties as well as crankshaft speed.

...My big 3-phase monster takes Mobil-1 10W-30 Synthetic. Which Dayton
charges $29 per quart for or something like that.

You can't imagine how ****ed off I was when the UPS package showed up with
my compressor oil and it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the auto parts store
at that price...

Ouch. Mobil-1 is definitely good oil though, I use it in most
everything.

I've heard compressor-oil is low-ash and - well, something to do with
compressors have a high "compression ratio" and can make a mess of
ordinary engine oil - or even run as a diesel engine combusting the
wrong crankcase oil.

Richard Smith wrote:
"Pete C." writes:

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Also, there's nothing special about compressor oil--the
overwhelming majority will be perfectly happy with straight 30 wt
non-detergent just like is used in lawnmowers etc, just don't use
the wrong weight ( or a multi viscosity oil ) because the oil
distribution system is based upon known oil properties as well as
crankshaft speed.

...My big 3-phase monster takes Mobil-1 10W-30 Synthetic. Which
Dayton charges $29 per quart for or something like that.

You can't imagine how ****ed off I was when the UPS package showed
up with my compressor oil and it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the
auto parts store at that price...

Ouch. Mobil-1 is definitely good oil though, I use it in most
everything.

I've heard compressor-oil is low-ash and - well, something to do with
compressors have a high "compression ratio" and can make a mess of
ordinary engine oil - or even run as a diesel engine combusting the
wrong crankcase oil.

I dunno about that , but I've seen piston rings that were so carboned up
that they couldn't seal properly . That was in a pump that as run way harder
than the rated duty cycle though .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On 03-Aug-2011 17:01, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the auto parts store
at that price...

It could have been Mobil-1 off the shelf oil in a fancy-pants
compressor-oil packaging, so that you would be coming back for
more quarts at $29 a throw. Be thankful for small mercies.
__________________________________________________ __________________
Gardner Buchanan gbuchana(a)teksavvy(dot)com
FreeBSD: Where you want to go. Today.

"Pete C." wrote in message
. com...

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Also, there's nothing special about compressor oil--the overwhelming
majority will be perfectly happy with straight 30 wt non-detergent just
like is used in lawnmowers etc, just don't use the wrong weight ( or a
multi viscosity oil ) because the oil distribution system is based upon
known oil properties as well as crankshaft speed.

...My big 3-phase monster takes Mobil-1 10W-30 Synthetic. Which Dayton
charges $29 per quart for or something like that.

You can't imagine how ****ed off I was when the UPS package showed up
with
my compressor oil and it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the auto parts
store
at that price...

Ouch. Mobil-1 is definitely good oil though, I use it in most
everything.

It will clog air valves on your cnc equipment especially mac and festo.

Richard Smith wrote:

"Pete C." writes:

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Also, there's nothing special about compressor oil--the overwhelming
majority will be perfectly happy with straight 30 wt non-detergent just
like is used in lawnmowers etc, just don't use the wrong weight ( or a
multi viscosity oil ) because the oil distribution system is based upon
known oil properties as well as crankshaft speed.

...My big 3-phase monster takes Mobil-1 10W-30 Synthetic. Which Dayton
charges $29 per quart for or something like that.

You can't imagine how ****ed off I was when the UPS package showed up with
my compressor oil and it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the auto parts store
at that price...

Ouch. Mobil-1 is definitely good oil though, I use it in most
everything.

I've heard compressor-oil is low-ash and - well, something to do with
compressors have a high "compression ratio" and can make a mess of
ordinary engine oil - or even run as a diesel engine combusting the
wrong crankcase oil.

The current diesel rated oils are "low ash" as a result of diesel
particulate filters on current emissions controlled diesels. I use
Mobil-1 5W40TD in my diesel truck and also in my diesel tractor.

"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .
I have a Husky upright, not the great big one, but the one about chest
high. Two cyl compressor. I bled the tank today, and got water and a white
milky oily fluid. Checked the dipstick, and it is low. I'll get some
Husky oil today and fill. Do you think I damaged the compressor? Is the
white oil in the tank normal?

TIA

Steve

Chapter two: I went to the borg and bought a pint or so of compressor oil
for $250 US. Came home and found out that my compressor crankcase had just
as much oil in it as it needed. It was not black, but not clear or white as
I expected from the white oily stuff that came out of the bottom of the
bleeder. I didn't open the bottle at all, so am not sure what color the new
oil is. BUT, now I am curious as to what the white oil was in the tank with
the water? Anti rust stuff? The compressor works fine, pressures up fast.

So, back to trying to identify the white oily liquid. The compressor is
just as it should be oil wise in the crankcase.

One last question: When checking oil, is it proper to stick the stick the
3/4" or so down into the casting, or check the level by just putting it in
until the stick hits the casting? The bottom of the dipstick has a bell
shaped plastic area. You then have to push it into the casting to get it
all the way in. I know in cars and lots of machinery,you stick the oil
stick in all the way, but have wondered about those others with screw in
dipsticks, or these push in types. Which way is correct?

Steve

--


Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide
Now on facebook, too.

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .
I have a Husky upright, not the great big one, but the one about chest
high. Two cyl compressor. I bled the tank today, and got water and a
white milky oily fluid. Checked the dipstick, and it is low. I'll get
some Husky oil today and fill. Do you think I damaged the compressor? Is
the white oil in the tank normal?

TIA

Steve

Chapter two: I went to the borg and bought a pint or so of compressor oil
for $250 US. Came home and found out that my compressor crankcase had
just as much oil in it as it needed. It was not black, but not clear or
white as I expected from the white oily stuff that came out of the bottom
of the bleeder. I didn't open the bottle at all, so am not sure what
color the new oil is. BUT, now I am curious as to what the white oil was
in the tank with the water? Anti rust stuff? The compressor works fine,
pressures up fast.

So, back to trying to identify the white oily liquid. The compressor is
just as it should be oil wise in the crankcase.

One last question: When checking oil, is it proper to stick the stick the
3/4" or so down into the casting, or check the level by just putting it in
until the stick hits the casting? The bottom of the dipstick has a bell
shaped plastic area. You then have to push it into the casting to get it
all the way in. I know in cars and lots of machinery,you stick the oil
stick in all the way, but have wondered about those others with screw in
dipsticks, or these push in types. Which way is correct?

Steve


LOL

Right wingers and their killfiles.....

While we're on compressors...

Anybody have any info on thie compressor?

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/temp/atlas-copco.html

Dunno how old it is. Seems to work well except for an annoying
problem described on the web page above.

Atlas-Copco seems to have no record of ever having made/sold it.

BTW,when it's been running, the oil in the crankcase is milky, I
assume from getting water homogenized with the oil. Using 30
wt. non-detergent motor oil. Should I be using something else?

It's rated for 400+ PSI but I only run my tank up to 150 PSI so the
compressor is presumably more or less loafing.


--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

"Steve B" writes:

"Steve B" wrote in message
.. .
I have a Husky upright, not the great big one, but the one about chest
high. Two cyl compressor. I bled the tank today, and got water and a white
milky oily fluid. Checked the dipstick, and it is low. I'll get some
Husky oil today and fill. Do you think I damaged the compressor? Is the
white oil in the tank normal?

TIA

Steve

Chapter two: I went to the borg and bought a pint or so of compressor oil
for $250 US. Came home and found out that my compressor crankcase had just
as much oil in it as it needed. It was not black, but not clear or white as
I expected from the white oily stuff that came out of the bottom of the
bleeder. I didn't open the bottle at all, so am not sure what color the new
oil is. BUT, now I am curious as to what the white oil was in the tank with
the water? Anti rust stuff? The compressor works fine, pressures up fast.

So, back to trying to identify the white oily liquid. The compressor is
just as it should be oil wise in the crankcase.

One last question: When checking oil, is it proper to stick the stick the
3/4" or so down into the casting, or check the level by just putting it in
until the stick hits the casting? The bottom of the dipstick has a bell
shaped plastic area. You then have to push it into the casting to get it
all the way in. I know in cars and lots of machinery,you stick the oil
stick in all the way, but have wondered about those others with screw in
dipsticks, or these push in types. Which way is correct?

Steve

Suggestion / question - is the white at-least partly oily stuff a
suspension of oil-in-water (like milk itself) or vice-versa (water in
oil)?

A rough experiment would be to heat up some of it - water would steam
off and you'd be left with clear oil (OK - sorry - some of us have
this problem that we always try to jump to a way of finding-out these
things... :-) )

Rich S

"Gardner"
78436578346587364578364578@kjhgfjkerhfjksdhfjkdfh kjhjkgfsdhfjdhfjkhfjkgfh.com
wrote in message ...
On 03-Aug-2011 17:01, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
it was Mobil-1 off the shelf of the auto parts store
at that price...

It could have been Mobil-1 off the shelf oil in a fancy-pants
compressor-oil packaging, so that you would be coming back for
more quarts at $29 a throw. Be thankful for small mercies.

Very good point.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022 x113
01.908.542.0244
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-HQ.com
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill


V8013-R

On Wed, 3 Aug 2011 22:02:50 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..
I have a Husky upright, not the great big one, but the one about chest
high. Two cyl compressor. I bled the tank today, and got water and a white
milky oily fluid. Checked the dipstick, and it is low. I'll get some
Husky oil today and fill. Do you think I damaged the compressor? Is the
white oil in the tank normal?

TIA

Steve

Chapter two: I went to the borg and bought a pint or so of compressor oil
for $250 US. Came home and found out that my compressor crankcase had just

Wow, that's expensive! I could have made a truck payment with that.
(Didja forget the decimal point?


as much oil in it as it needed. It was not black, but not clear or white as
I expected from the white oily stuff that came out of the bottom of the
bleeder. I didn't open the bottle at all, so am not sure what color the new
oil is. BUT, now I am curious as to what the white oil was in the tank with
the water? Anti rust stuff? The compressor works fine, pressures up fast.

So, back to trying to identify the white oily liquid. The compressor is
just as it should be oil wise in the crankcase.

I change (or try to) my compressor oil annually. Isn't it time for
yours?


One last question: When checking oil, is it proper to stick the stick the
3/4" or so down into the casting, or check the level by just putting it in
until the stick hits the casting? The bottom of the dipstick has a bell
shaped plastic area. You then have to push it into the casting to get it
all the way in. I know in cars and lots of machinery,you stick the oil
stick in all the way, but have wondered about those others with screw in
dipsticks, or these push in types. Which way is correct?

I always put it all the way in and screw it down if it's normally
fixed that way. Whatever way you choose to do it, always check and
fill it the same way. Then you'll be assured that it always has the
proper amount of oil in it.

--
In the depth of winter, I finally learned
that within me there lay an invincible summer.
-- Albert Camus

"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
...

While we're on compressors...

Anybody have any info on thie compressor?

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/temp/atlas-copco.html

Dunno how old it is. Seems to work well except for an annoying
problem described on the web page above.


I would guess non-compressibles in the high pressure section are being
vented off...

--definately beats the alternative.


Atlas-Copco seems to have no record of ever having made/sold it.

BTW,when it's been running, the oil in the crankcase is milky, I
assume from getting water homogenized with the oil.

Maybe it's never getting up to the proper operating temp.

Using 30 wt. non-detergent motor oil. Should I be using something else?
It's rated for 400+ PSI but I only run my tank up to 150 PSI so the
compressor is presumably more or less loafing.


--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote:

"Mike Spencer" wrote:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/temp/atlas-copco.html

Dunno how old it is. Seems to work well except for an annoying
problem described on the web page above. [3rd stage over-pressure valve
pops repeatedly]


I would guess non-compressibles in the high pressure section are
being vented off...

Duh. Makes perfect sense. The right amount of oil or oil/water
emulsion would do it, wouldn't it? It's an old beast, probably
heavily used for many years. And oil mist does blow out when the valve
pops.

But it never occurred to me that the amount of oil reaching that stage
could make that difference.

--definately beats the alternative.

Yeah. Oh, yeah.

Thanks,

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On Wed, 3 Aug 2011 22:02:50 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Steve B" wrote in message
. ..
I have a Husky upright, not the great big one, but the one about chest
high. Two cyl compressor. I bled the tank today, and got water and a white
milky oily fluid. Checked the dipstick, and it is low. I'll get some
Husky oil today and fill. Do you think I damaged the compressor? Is the
white oil in the tank normal?

TIA

Steve

Chapter two: I went to the borg and bought a pint or so of compressor oil
for $250 US. Came home and found out that my compressor crankcase had just
as much oil in it as it needed. It was not black, but not clear or white as
I expected from the white oily stuff that came out of the bottom of the
bleeder. I didn't open the bottle at all, so am not sure what color the new
oil is. BUT, now I am curious as to what the white oil was in the tank with
the water? Anti rust stuff? The compressor works fine, pressures up fast.

As a guy who services air compressors in industrial settings....I have
some knowledge of air compressors...

The white stuff is water mixed with a tiny tiny bit of oil with a bunch
of air mixed in with it. Its common with EVERY air compressor. Period.

The water of course is from condensing air and thats why any good tech
puts an automatic drain system on every air tank in use. Remote tanks,
local tanks, etc etc. Unless one has a decent "dryer" pre tank...IE...a
dryer hooked up between the output of the compressor head the storage
tank.

Gunner

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an
Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense
and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have
such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the
fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of
fools that made him their prince".

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Aug 2011 22:02:50 -0700, "Steve B"
...
The white stuff is water mixed with a tiny tiny bit of oil with a bunch
of air mixed in with it. Its common with EVERY air compressor. Period.

The water of course is from condensing air and thats why any good tech
puts an automatic drain system on every air tank in use. Remote tanks,
local tanks, etc etc. Unless one has a decent "dryer" pre tank...IE...a
dryer hooked up between the output of the compressor head the storage
tank.

Gunner

If you don't want to grovel in the presence of your machines you can connect
a hose to the bottom fitting and raise the drain valve to a more dignified
location.

jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Aug 2011 22:02:50 -0700, "Steve
...
The white stuff is water mixed with a tiny tiny bit of oil with a bunch
of air mixed in with it. Its common with EVERY air compressor. Period.

The water of course is from condensing air and thats why any good tech
puts an automatic drain system on every air tank in use. Remote tanks,
local tanks, etc etc. Unless one has a decent "dryer" pre tank...IE...a
dryer hooked up between the output of the compressor head the storage
tank.

Gunner

If you don't want to grovel in the presence of your machines you can connect
a hose to the bottom fitting and raise the drain valve to a more dignified
location.

I replaced the drain valve with an elbow and a
short length of hose.

Occasionally, I press the button on the attached
blowoff nozzle to drain the tank. Cheap and fast.

Clears the driveway of cats.

What's not to like?

--Winston

On Sat, 06 Aug 2011 11:55:08 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Aug 2011 22:02:50 -0700, "Steve
...
The white stuff is water mixed with a tiny tiny bit of oil with a bunch
of air mixed in with it. Its common with EVERY air compressor. Period.

The water of course is from condensing air and thats why any good tech
puts an automatic drain system on every air tank in use. Remote tanks,
local tanks, etc etc. Unless one has a decent "dryer" pre tank...IE...a
dryer hooked up between the output of the compressor head the storage
tank.

Gunner

If you don't want to grovel in the presence of your machines you can connect
a hose to the bottom fitting and raise the drain valve to a more dignified
location.

I replaced the drain valve with an elbow and a
short length of hose.

Occasionally, I press the button on the attached
blowoff nozzle to drain the tank. Cheap and fast.

Clears the driveway of cats.

What's not to like?

--Winston

That works.

You just have to remember to do it.

I worked on a compressor in a BIG machine shop about 6 months ago.
25hp piston compressor with a 200 gallon tank.

That had at least 100 gallons of water in it.

I literally covered the back parking lot when I drained the tank. When
I showed this to the supervisor....he pondered a few minutes..then said
that was Ramons job....then pondered a bit more..and remarked that they
has laid Ramon off 6 months ago.....


--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an
Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense
and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have
such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the
fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of
fools that made him their prince".

"Winston" wrote in message
...

Occasionally, I press the button on the attached
blowoff nozzle to drain the tank. Cheap and fast.

Clears the driveway of cats.

What's not to like?



Cats ?

PrecisionmachinisT wrote:
wrote in message
...

Occasionally, I press the button on the attached
blowoff nozzle to drain the tank. Cheap and fast.

Clears the driveway of cats.

What's not to like?



Cats ?

Joke.

--Winston