I have had a oilless craftsman 26 gallon 5 horsepower compressor for
about 3 years (I cannot remember the exact SCFM rating but it is 5 &
90psi). It recently starting tripping the breaker within seconds of
flipping the power switch. I was told that the motor would need to be
replaced to fix the problem since individual parts are not available.
I was quote $175 for the repair. I am having a hard time justifying
the repair since I paid $250 for the compressor originally.

I am now looking for a replacement compressor. I would like to keep
the cost down as much as possible, but don't want to scrimp and regret
it again.

My plan was to replace it with a tank with at least the same, but I was
at home depot last night and saw a Ridgid OL50135. It is oil lube 3HP
peak/1.5 running with twin tanks (cap 5 gallons). It delivers 4.8SCFM
@90 psi.

I will not be using the compressor very often, right now we are
remodeling the house so I will be running nailers a few times a week
for a couple hours at a time. Once that is finished, it will go back
to my normal use of using to work on my cars and motorcycles. The most
frequent use would be one full day per weekend, but it is more likely
half a door every couple weeks. I typically run a few air ratchets and
impact wrenches. Once every few months I run a d/a sander or
sandblaster. My d/a sander and sandblaster both require about 5 SCFM.

Obviously the Ridgid would run alot more when I was using a sander or
sandblaster than my craftsman did, but it still would be able to
deliver the same volume of air, correct? The recovery time for the
Ridgid is less than 15 seconds, couldn't find the spec for my
craftsman, but I would say it is at least 30 seconds - 1 minute. Space
is limited in my garage, so the small size of the ridgid would be a
nice benefit.

Should the Ridgid deliver the same amount of air as my crafstman, but
just run more frequently, or do you thing the air delivery will be
lower while it is recovering? Do you think I will damage the Ridgid,
by having it running alot while using a d/a sander and sandblaster?

Any other suggestions on a compressor? I would like to keep it under
$400 if possible, but if I get a solid benefit for spending more, I
will likely do it.

Thanks

wrote in message
My plan was to replace it with a tank with at least the same, but I was
at home depot last night and saw a Ridgid OL50135. It is oil lube 3HP
peak/1.5 running with twin tanks (cap 5 gallons). It delivers 4.8SCFM
@90 psi.

Once every few months I run a d/a sander or
sandblaster. My d/a sander and sandblaster both require about 5 SCFM.

Obviously the Ridgid would run alot more when I was using a sander or
sandblaster than my craftsman did, but it still would be able to
deliver the same volume of air, correct?

It will deliver 4.8 as stated. If you use 5 cfm, the tank will run down.



Should the Ridgid deliver the same amount of air as my crafstman, but
just run more frequently, or do you thing the air delivery will be
lower while it is recovering?

No, it will deliver what is rated and no more. If you take out more that
the compressor can put in, you eventually lose pressure at the too. If yo
give it time to recover, it will run the sander again from the resevoir that
is build up.


Do you think I will damage the Ridgid,
by having it running alot while using a d/a sander and sandblaster?

Running the crap out of a compressor wears it out faster than one that has
higher capacity. The 4.8 cfm is going to struggle while an 8 or 10 cfm is
just coasting. If you had to drive up a steep hill that was 25 miles long,
would you do it in a big V8 powered car easier than a Fiat? Which would
last longer?

The specifications are fantasies.

http://www.truetex.com/aircompressors.htm

Buy the biggest piston type you can afford.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I have had a oilless craftsman 26 gallon 5 horsepower compressor for
about 3 years (I cannot remember the exact SCFM rating but it is 5 &
90psi). It recently starting tripping the breaker within seconds of
flipping the power switch. I was told that the motor would need to be
replaced to fix the problem since individual parts are not available.
I was quote $175 for the repair.

Who tested the motor? Are you sure that the breaker/gfci outlet it is
attached to is not part of the problem?









I am having a hard time justifying
the repair since I paid $250 for the compressor originally.

I am now looking for a replacement compressor. I would like to keep
the cost down as much as possible, but don't want to scrimp and regret
it again.

My plan was to replace it with a tank with at least the same, but I was
at home depot last night and saw a Ridgid OL50135. It is oil lube 3HP
peak/1.5 running with twin tanks (cap 5 gallons). It delivers 4.8SCFM
@90 psi.

I will not be using the compressor very often, right now we are
remodeling the house so I will be running nailers a few times a week
for a couple hours at a time. Once that is finished, it will go back
to my normal use of using to work on my cars and motorcycles. The most
frequent use would be one full day per weekend, but it is more likely
half a door every couple weeks. I typically run a few air ratchets and
impact wrenches. Once every few months I run a d/a sander or
sandblaster. My d/a sander and sandblaster both require about 5 SCFM.

Obviously the Ridgid would run alot more when I was using a sander or
sandblaster than my craftsman did, but it still would be able to
deliver the same volume of air, correct? The recovery time for the
Ridgid is less than 15 seconds, couldn't find the spec for my
craftsman, but I would say it is at least 30 seconds - 1 minute. Space
is limited in my garage, so the small size of the ridgid would be a
nice benefit.

Should the Ridgid deliver the same amount of air as my crafstman, but
just run more frequently, or do you thing the air delivery will be
lower while it is recovering? Do you think I will damage the Ridgid,
by having it running alot while using a d/a sander and sandblaster?

Any other suggestions on a compressor? I would like to keep it under
$400 if possible, but if I get a solid benefit for spending more, I
will likely do it.

Thanks

It was a friend that tested the motor, he is retired now, but was a
maintenance technician for most of his career. He thought he could rig
it to get it working but it definitely would not be a permanent fix. I
cannot remember the name of the part that needed to replaced, but it is
the component controls the start capacitor that is messed up. He
checked Sears and some electrical supply shops and was unable to find
the part. Sears wanted $175 for a new motor, he thought I might be
able to find one alittle cheaper, but didn't know if it would be worth
it to replace it. I don't want to buy a new motor, then have the exact
same thing happen to me again, he thought it definitely was a design
flaw, so I am not sure if they have fixed it or not.

Also, I tried it on 2 completely different circuits, and got the same
results, both circuits had run the compressor with no problem in the
past. 1 day it seemed to be working fine, and the next day, I had the
problem.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Also, I tried it on 2 completely different circuits, and got the same
results, both circuits had run the compressor with no problem in the
past. 1 day it seemed to be working fine, and the next day, I had the
problem.

Not much info to go on; however from your quotation of your friends comment
it sounds as though it might be the 'start' contacts. Typically these are
closed when the motor is at rest; when the motor gets up to speed the
contacts open and disconnect the starting winding and/or capacitor etc.
These contacts can wear out; the more often the motor starts the quicker
the wear.

One way to test that it 'might' be the start circuit is to release all
pressure; switch on and carefully spin the motor manually (mind your
fingers)! If it then runs it 'may' be the said start circuit.

I guess a new/replacement 5 HP motor will not be cheap?
But if you published the motor type/number/rating/ etc. here you might get
some good advice as to where new contacts (if that is indeed the problem!)
could be obtained.

If it was mine and it was/is the non replaceable? starting contacts, I
would probably devise a starting circuit, probably using a relay of some
sort (kinda similar to pressing that start button on some models of) clothes
dryers but doing it automatically when the pressure falls. But it would
depend on the motor circuitry. It is possible this is what your technical
friend is mentioning as a possibility?

Locally friend/neighbours say that some so called 5 HP compressors are
inadequate for the demands placed on them! e.g. Recently someone was sanding
a fibreglass boat repair using an air tool. The 5 HP compressor ran almost
continuously!

Thanks for all the help. I think he was talking about the starting
contacts, it was a more technical name for them, but I cannot remember
what it was. I will ask him and get some more info. I am out of town
on business right now, should be back tomorrow, so I can get the
specifics on the motor model number.

I was actually wondering if it could be rewired to 220v, after reading
the article on compressor power ratings that was posted above, it made
me wish I had a 220v compressor. I am not sure if it would solve my
problem, but I would rather try that then buy a new compressor. I have
only had it for 3 years and have used it very little, I definetly was
planning on getting more use out of it.

I saw a Husky 7hp 60 gallon oil lubed 220v compressor at homedepot.com
it is $429. It looks like that would be better than the ridgid I saw
before. I would much rather repair the Craftsman though..

wrote:
It was a friend that tested the motor, he is retired now, but was a
maintenance technician for most of his career. He thought he could rig
it to get it working but it definitely would not be a permanent fix. I
cannot remember the name of the part that needed to replaced, but it is
the component controls the start capacitor that is messed up. He
checked Sears and some electrical supply shops and was unable to find
the part. Sears wanted $175 for a new motor, he thought I might be
able to find one alittle cheaper, but didn't know if it would be worth
it to replace it. I don't want to buy a new motor, then have the exact
same thing happen to me again, he thought it definitely was a design
flaw, so I am not sure if they have fixed it or not.

was it the centrifugal switch?

Mark

On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 12:27:17 -0700, "SQLit" wrote:


wrote in message
oups.com...
I have had a oilless craftsman 26 gallon 5 horsepower compressor for
about 3 years (I cannot remember the exact SCFM rating but it is 5 &
90psi). It recently starting tripping the breaker within seconds of
flipping the power switch. I was told that the motor would need to be
replaced to fix the problem since individual parts are not available.
I was quote $175 for the repair.

Who tested the motor? Are you sure that the breaker/gfci outlet it is
attached to is not part of the problem?

I bought a new similar SCFM compressor a few years back and
it trip off every time it restart. I rewired it from 110C to 220V and
haven't encounter tripping ever since. Further, most compressor
with the exception of Inglesoll Rand, the rated HP are all bull ****.

He should rewire it to 220V or get one of his neighbour to do
for him and save the few hundred bucks.

I am having a hard time justifying
the repair since I paid $250 for the compressor originally.

I am now looking for a replacement compressor. I would like to keep
the cost down as much as possible, but don't want to scrimp and regret
it again.

My plan was to replace it with a tank with at least the same, but I was
at home depot last night and saw a Ridgid OL50135. It is oil lube 3HP
peak/1.5 running with twin tanks (cap 5 gallons). It delivers 4.8SCFM
@90 psi.

I will not be using the compressor very often, right now we are
remodeling the house so I will be running nailers a few times a week
for a couple hours at a time. Once that is finished, it will go back
to my normal use of using to work on my cars and motorcycles. The most
frequent use would be one full day per weekend, but it is more likely
half a door every couple weeks. I typically run a few air ratchets and
impact wrenches. Once every few months I run a d/a sander or
sandblaster. My d/a sander and sandblaster both require about 5 SCFM.

Obviously the Ridgid would run alot more when I was using a sander or
sandblaster than my craftsman did, but it still would be able to
deliver the same volume of air, correct? The recovery time for the
Ridgid is less than 15 seconds, couldn't find the spec for my
craftsman, but I would say it is at least 30 seconds - 1 minute. Space
is limited in my garage, so the small size of the ridgid would be a
nice benefit.

Should the Ridgid deliver the same amount of air as my crafstman, but
just run more frequently, or do you thing the air delivery will be
lower while it is recovering? Do you think I will damage the Ridgid,
by having it running alot while using a d/a sander and sandblaster?

Any other suggestions on a compressor? I would like to keep it under
$400 if possible, but if I get a solid benefit for spending more, I
will likely do it.

Thanks

On 5 Oct 2005 08:48:55 -0700, wrote:

Any other suggestions on a compressor? I would like to keep it under
$400 if possible, but if I get a solid benefit for spending more, I
will likely do it.


Try running it off a very short extension chord to see if the
compressor still trips. On a long extension chord there is a voltage
drop and the compressor trips at the slightest provocation.

Look in your Yellow Pages under "Electric motor repair" and see if you
can find one that can replace the centrifugal switch in your motor. If
the rest of the motor is ok, it should be able to be repaired for
probably $50 or less. Larry

Couple thoughts. First, if you get the smaller compressor, you may be able
to plumb it in, and use the larger tank as a ballast tank. Hook the air hose
to the larger tank.

Second, try Froogle for 5 HP motors. Or Ebay.

Motors are also available at places like Northern Tools, and Grainger. Might
be less expensive than the Sears motor. If you get the same direction, and
V-belt configuration, the compressor shouldn't know the difference.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


wrote in message
ups.com...
I have had a oilless craftsman 26 gallon 5 horsepower compressor for
about 3 years (I cannot remember the exact SCFM rating but it is 5 &
90psi). It recently starting tripping the breaker within seconds of
flipping the power switch. I was told that the motor would need to be
replaced to fix the problem since individual parts are not available.
I was quote $175 for the repair. I am having a hard time justifying
the repair since I paid $250 for the compressor originally.

I am now looking for a replacement compressor. I would like to keep
the cost down as much as possible, but don't want to scrimp and regret
it again.

My plan was to replace it with a tank with at least the same, but I was
at home depot last night and saw a Ridgid OL50135. It is oil lube 3HP
peak/1.5 running with twin tanks (cap 5 gallons). It delivers 4.8SCFM
@90 psi.

I will not be using the compressor very often, right now we are
remodeling the house so I will be running nailers a few times a week
for a couple hours at a time. Once that is finished, it will go back
to my normal use of using to work on my cars and motorcycles. The most
frequent use would be one full day per weekend, but it is more likely
half a door every couple weeks. I typically run a few air ratchets and
impact wrenches. Once every few months I run a d/a sander or
sandblaster. My d/a sander and sandblaster both require about 5 SCFM.

Obviously the Ridgid would run alot more when I was using a sander or
sandblaster than my craftsman did, but it still would be able to
deliver the same volume of air, correct? The recovery time for the
Ridgid is less than 15 seconds, couldn't find the spec for my
craftsman, but I would say it is at least 30 seconds - 1 minute. Space
is limited in my garage, so the small size of the ridgid would be a
nice benefit.

Should the Ridgid deliver the same amount of air as my crafstman, but
just run more frequently, or do you thing the air delivery will be
lower while it is recovering? Do you think I will damage the Ridgid,
by having it running alot while using a d/a sander and sandblaster?

Any other suggestions on a compressor? I would like to keep it under
$400 if possible, but if I get a solid benefit for spending more, I
will likely do it.

Thanks

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for all the help. I think he was talking about the starting
contacts, it was a more technical name for them, but I cannot remember
what it was. I will ask him and get some more info. I am out of town
on business right now, should be back tomorrow, so I can get the
specifics on the motor model number.

I was actually wondering if it could be rewired to 220v, after reading
the article on compressor power ratings that was posted above, it made
me wish I had a 220v compressor. I am not sure if it would solve my
problem, but I would rather try that then buy a new compressor. I have
only had it for 3 years and have used it very little, I definetly was
planning on getting more use out of it.

I saw a Husky 7hp 60 gallon oil lubed 220v compressor at homedepot.com
it is $429. It looks like that would be better than the ridgid I saw
before. I would much rather repair the Craftsman though..

When I decided I needed more compressor than my origional "5HP" Craftsman, I
was convinced by talking to "real" compressor shops to buy a used
"commercial" cast iron compressor. The 5HP 2 stage compressor I ended up
with delivers way more pressure and volume than the one it replaced, and the
sound is way more bearable. I was told it would last way longer than any of
the cheap compressors I could get at local "home inprovement" stores.

Bob

To answer a couple of the questions above. The compressor is not
plugged into an extension cord, the cord that came on it from the
factory is about 4' long, and I have that plugged directly into the
outlet.

The part was the centrigufal switch. I will try to call some shops
around to see if I can get it replaced. I did look at Northern Tools
and Grainger for a replacement motor, they did not have the exact
replacement, and most of the ones I saw that were close were more
expensive than the Sears motor. My concern with using a different
motor, is the pump, actually mounts directly on the shaft of the motor,
and bolts into the motor case. It is not the design, where there is a
pully and seperate pump. I don't know how standard the mounts and the
shaft sizes are, so I would need to be real careful and make sure I got
a compatible unit.

A used commercial compressor is definitely an option, one of my
customers rebuilds and sells commercial compressors, most of the units
are much larger than what I would need, but I will check to see what he
has.

Has anyone had experience with the Husky Pro compressors? I believe
the one I am interested in is actually made by Cambell Hausfield and
sold through Home Depot. This is the one I am interested in:

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...j.0& MID=9876

Thanks

i have the OL50135 ridged for a few months now..and have run into a
problem. When pressure builds up i hear a leak coming from the pressure
regulator knob. I took it apart but found nothing wrong that i could tell.
Then i read in the manual that you shouldnt turn the knob when pressure is
at peak in the regulated pressure guage as it may cause malfunction of the
pressure regulator. Well i did just that. Now when i g oto use it the
pressure goes down very fast and the back up tank isnt very fast to re
pressurize the tank i'm using. Does anyone have any idea how i can fix
this? Thanks in advance.