I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve

Steve B wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?


I've seen old metal roofed mobil homes with a couple soaker hoses on
the roof to cool them down. The downside was the constant water flow
down the sides washed away the paint, leaving bare aluminum.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On 7/23/2011 19:38, Steve B wrote:
I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve




No, but I've wanted to.

See below. The last link to a PDF is pretty informative. Watch the wrap.


http://www.builditsolar.com/Experime...oofCooling.htm

http://www.weknowexcel.com/autocool.htm

http://txspace.di.tamu.edu/bitstream...pdf?sequence=1


--
Steve Walker
(remove brain when replying)

Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.

On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve

"Steve Walker" wrote

No, but I've wanted to.

See below. The last link to a PDF is pretty informative. Watch the wrap.


http://www.builditsolar.com/Experime...oofCooling.htm

http://www.weknowexcel.com/autocool.htm

http://txspace.di.tamu.edu/bitstream...pdf?sequence=1


--
Steve Walker

Thank you, Steve. That is a wealth of information, and confirms my idea.
It also showed me that I was intending to use too much water, and the fine
spraying is what I need. I believe I can put a fine enough filter on my ag
water to make it work, and perhaps use the regular mister systems, and use
an additional filter or two on those lines.

Monday is a holiday here in Utah, and Tuesday, my hired man is coming, and
we're going to set trusses. It won't be long after that we'll be sheeting.
Now I just have to put a good sealant on the joints, and I have that. I
think it will make a huge difference on the inside, and give me about 9500
cubic feet of cooled enclosed shop area.

Thanks again. Glad to see there's still a little intelligent life in this
group.

Steve

"Howard Eisenhauer" wrote in message
...
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.


Roger that. I have 5 gallons of liquid goop that they use on RV roofs that
I am going to pour on any concavities, or damage. Both roofs are very
slightly convex. If this works the way I think it will, the water should
not ever reach the containers, only the roof above them.

Steve

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer
wrote:

Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.

Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner


On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve



--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer

wrote:
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.

Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner











On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve



Many large structures use chilled water for cooling or hot water
heating. if you could score a condenser from one of these, just pump
your water through and put a fan behind it. Way more efficient
cooling. I'd give you one, if you want to go for a 1500 mile road
trip.

Karl

Rex wrote:

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.


You want a light color, to reflect most of the heat.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT), Rex
wrote:

On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer

wrote:
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.

Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner











On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT), Rex

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

So, spray the black goo and paint it white.

What's roofing foam? If that's white (and lasts awhile) then it should
be fine.

Have Fun!
Rich

"Karl Townsend" wrote

Many large structures use chilled water for cooling or hot water
heating. if you could score a condenser from one of these, just pump
your water through and put a fan behind it. Way more efficient
cooling. I'd give you one, if you want to go for a 1500 mile road
trip.

Karl

Thanks anyway. I'm saving for a plasma cutter and a Nikon.

Steve

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

Gunner

BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow
when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all
over the roof.
Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs
Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood
peckers.

That was in Tucson, the Sonoran desert has plenty of Gila woodpeckers.

The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal.
http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html
Art

That...looks very very good and exactly what Im looking for!

Many many thanks! Home Despot carries it one assumes? Ace Hardware is a
non starter, at least locally..given the horrendous markups they use.

That's where I bought it (HD) many moons ago.

I also noted Iron Coat. Is that a better product for my application?

No experience with that one.



http://www.amespaint.com/mm5/merchan...ategory_Code=1

Its a bit..pricey isnt it?

It used to be. Donno about today. It's really excellent stuff and worth the
$ IMO.
Art


Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

On Jul 24, 6:42*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. *Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

Gunner

BTDT. *Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. *It sounds hollow
when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all
over the roof.

Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs
Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood
peckers.

The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal.
http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html
Art

That...looks very very good and exactly what Im looking for!

Many many thanks! *Home Despot carries it one assumes? Ace Hardware is a
non starter, at least locally..given the horrendous markups they use.

I also noted Iron Coat. *Is that a better product for my application?

http://www.amespaint.com/mm5/merchan...tore_Code=AWM&....

Its a bit..pricey isnt it?

Gunner


I saw some aluminized roofing compound at Orchard Supply when I was
living in CA many years back, looked like it was basically tar with
enough aluminum powder to help with the heat problem. Fairly cheap at
the time. Not sure how well it'd seal leaks, you could always go the
blackjack and beercan route to seal those, though.

Stan

wrote:

On Jul 24, 6:42 pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

Gunner

BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow
when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all
over the roof.

Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs
Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood
peckers.

The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal.
http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html
Art

That...looks very very good and exactly what Im looking for!

Many many thanks! Home Despot carries it one assumes? Ace Hardware is a
non starter, at least locally..given the horrendous markups they use.

I also noted Iron Coat. Is that a better product for my application?

http://www.amespaint.com/mm5/merchan...tore_Code=AWM&...

Its a bit..pricey isnt it?

Gunner


I saw some aluminized roofing compound at Orchard Supply when I was
living in CA many years back, looked like it was basically tar with
enough aluminum powder to help with the heat problem. Fairly cheap at
the time. Not sure how well it'd seal leaks, you could always go the
blackjack and beercan route to seal those, though.


That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily
available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in
that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 06:43:13 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


wrote:

On Jul 24, 6:42 pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote:

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

Gunner

BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow
when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all
over the roof.

Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs
Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood
peckers.

The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal.
http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html
Art

That...looks very very good and exactly what Im looking for!

Many many thanks! Home Despot carries it one assumes? Ace Hardware is a
non starter, at least locally..given the horrendous markups they use.

I also noted Iron Coat. Is that a better product for my application?

http://www.amespaint.com/mm5/merchan...tore_Code=AWM&...

Its a bit..pricey isnt it?

Gunner


I saw some aluminized roofing compound at Orchard Supply when I was
living in CA many years back, looked like it was basically tar with
enough aluminum powder to help with the heat problem. Fairly cheap at
the time. Not sure how well it'd seal leaks, you could always go the
blackjack and beercan route to seal those, though.


That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily
available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in
that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast.

Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I
get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full
effect of the sun take its toll.

Thanks!

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

Gunner Asch wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily
available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in
that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast.

Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I
get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full
effect of the sun take its toll.


Snow Seal is made for that job. It is white, and reflect a lot of
heat. It holds up well here in Florida, where other roof compounds die
in a year or two. The 'Snow' part refers to the bright white color, not
for where it was made to be used.

Here are the specifictions form the OEM:

http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily
available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in
that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast.
Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I
get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full
effect of the sun take its toll.


Snow Seal is made for that job. It is white, and reflect a lot of
heat. It holds up well here in Florida, where other roof compounds die
in a year or two. The 'Snow' part refers to the bright white color, not
for where it was made to be used.

Here are the specifictions form the OEM:

http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html




I remember that stuff being all over the place down there - 30 years ago.



--

Richard Lamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress

On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

At my last house I ran one of the perforated sprinkler hoses over
the roof of the shed. It cooled down to 30 C from an interior
temperature of 48 C in about 20 minutes. I did the planned job, then
went indoors to the real airconditioning. Whenever I needed to do
anything in the shed in summer I used this system, probably only used
about 100 litres of water an hour, shed was 15 metres x 5 metres.

Alan

CaveLamb wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily
available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in
that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast.
Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I
get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full
effect of the sun take its toll.


Snow Seal is made for that job. It is white, and reflect a lot of
heat. It holds up well here in Florida, where other roof compounds die
in a year or two. The 'Snow' part refers to the bright white color, not
for where it was made to be used.

Here are the specifictions form the OEM:

http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html



I remember that stuff being all over the place down there - 30 years ago.


It has a long useful life, so it may have saturated the market.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote:

BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow
when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all
over the roof.

Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs
Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood
peckers.

If you're talking about the bird, it's one word: "woodpecker." A wood
pecker (2 wds) is a cheap dildo.

Hope This Helps!
Rich

Rex on Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT)
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer

wrote:
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.

Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner
On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.

Snowhite Roof covering. Much preferred where insolation is high
(meaning that there is a lot of sunshine).

As for cooling the sides and top - "double wall". I think it was
Buckminster Fuller who designed a double walled, all metal portable
hut back inthe forties. (I think for the War Department.) While the
outside wall got very hot, the air gap allowed for a flow "up" and out
the top, which kept the inside cooler. Neat idea, but the Army went
with the Quonset hut, instead.

One other idea for cooling, keeping air flow going, is to paint
the roof white, then add a stove pipe painted black. That way a) the
roof stays "cool" but the stove pipe will cause a draft as hot air
flows up and out, drawing fresh(er) air in. Steward Brand, Editor of
The Whole Earth News, did that with his container turned office - no
need for A/C or power consumption.
--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!