Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Container cooling

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve



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Steve B wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?



I've seen old metal roofed mobil homes with a couple soaker hoses on
the roof to cool them down. The downside was the constant water flow
down the sides washed away the paint, leaving bare aluminum.


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Default Container cooling

On 7/23/2011 19:38, Steve B wrote:
I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve




No, but I've wanted to.

See below. The last link to a PDF is pretty informative. Watch the wrap.


http://www.builditsolar.com/Experime...oofCooling.htm

http://www.weknowexcel.com/autocool.htm

http://txspace.di.tamu.edu/bitstream...pdf?sequence=1


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"Steve Walker" wrote

No, but I've wanted to.

See below. The last link to a PDF is pretty informative. Watch the wrap.


http://www.builditsolar.com/Experime...oofCooling.htm

http://www.weknowexcel.com/autocool.htm

http://txspace.di.tamu.edu/bitstream...pdf?sequence=1


--
Steve Walker


Thank you, Steve. That is a wealth of information, and confirms my idea.
It also showed me that I was intending to use too much water, and the fine
spraying is what I need. I believe I can put a fine enough filter on my ag
water to make it work, and perhaps use the regular mister systems, and use
an additional filter or two on those lines.

Monday is a holiday here in Utah, and Tuesday, my hired man is coming, and
we're going to set trusses. It won't be long after that we'll be sheeting.
Now I just have to put a good sealant on the joints, and I have that. I
think it will make a huge difference on the inside, and give me about 9500
cubic feet of cooled enclosed shop area.

Thanks again. Glad to see there's still a little intelligent life in this
group.

Steve


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Default Container cooling

Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.

On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve




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Default Container cooling


"Howard Eisenhauer" wrote in message
...
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.



Roger that. I have 5 gallons of liquid goop that they use on RV roofs that
I am going to pour on any concavities, or damage. Both roofs are very
slightly convex. If this works the way I think it will, the water should
not ever reach the containers, only the roof above them.

Steve


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Default Container cooling

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer
wrote:

Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.

H.


Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner


On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve



--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.
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Default Container cooling

On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer

wrote:
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.


H.


Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner











On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is
1280.


My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.


I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.


Anyone ever done this?


Steve


--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.


You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.
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Rex wrote:

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.



You want a light color, to reflect most of the heat.


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Default Container cooling

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT), Rex
wrote:

On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer

wrote:
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.


H.


Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner











On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is
1280.


My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.


I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.


Anyone ever done this?


Steve


--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.


You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.


Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

Gunner

--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.


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Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT), Rex

You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.


Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather
strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the
entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some
of that white roofing foam?

So, spray the black goo and paint it white.

What's roofing foam? If that's white (and lasts awhile) then it should
be fine.

Have Fun!
Rich

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Rex on Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT)
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer

wrote:
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots.


H.


Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im
going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The
majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in
places and it did leak last winter.

Gunner
On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is
1280.


My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.


I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.


Anyone ever done this?


Steve


--
Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath.
Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head.


You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough
weatherproof sealer.


Snowhite Roof covering. Much preferred where insolation is high
(meaning that there is a lot of sunshine).

As for cooling the sides and top - "double wall". I think it was
Buckminster Fuller who designed a double walled, all metal portable
hut back inthe forties. (I think for the War Department.) While the
outside wall got very hot, the air gap allowed for a flow "up" and out
the top, which kept the inside cooler. Neat idea, but the Army went
with the Quonset hut, instead.

One other idea for cooling, keeping air flow going, is to paint
the roof white, then add a stove pipe painted black. That way a) the
roof stays "cool" but the stove pipe will cause a draft as hot air
flows up and out, drawing fresh(er) air in. Steward Brand, Editor of
The Whole Earth News, did that with his container turned office - no
need for A/C or power consumption.
--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!
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On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32'
long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is
1280.

My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There
will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the
space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each
container.

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?

Steve



Many large structures use chilled water for cooling or hot water
heating. if you could score a condenser from one of these, just pump
your water through and put a fan behind it. Way more efficient
cooling. I'd give you one, if you want to go for a 1500 mile road
trip.

Karl
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"Karl Townsend" wrote

Many large structures use chilled water for cooling or hot water
heating. if you could score a condenser from one of these, just pump
your water through and put a fan behind it. Way more efficient
cooling. I'd give you one, if you want to go for a 1500 mile road
trip.

Karl


Thanks anyway. I'm saving for a plasma cutter and a Nikon.

Steve


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Default Container cooling

On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the
roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very
much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so
there's no problem about added cost.

Anyone ever done this?


At my last house I ran one of the perforated sprinkler hoses over
the roof of the shed. It cooled down to 30 C from an interior
temperature of 48 C in about 20 minutes. I did the planned job, then
went indoors to the real airconditioning. Whenever I needed to do
anything in the shed in summer I used this system, probably only used
about 100 litres of water an hour, shed was 15 metres x 5 metres.

Alan


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