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Container cooling
I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each
container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve |
Container cooling
Steve B wrote: I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? I've seen old metal roofed mobil homes with a couple soaker hoses on the roof to cool them down. The downside was the constant water flow down the sides washed away the paint, leaving bare aluminum. -- It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch. |
Container cooling
On 7/23/2011 19:38, Steve B wrote:
I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve No, but I've wanted to. See below. The last link to a PDF is pretty informative. Watch the wrap. http://www.builditsolar.com/Experime...oofCooling.htm http://www.weknowexcel.com/autocool.htm http://txspace.di.tamu.edu/bitstream...pdf?sequence=1 -- Steve Walker (remove brain when replying) |
Container cooling
Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out
due to water pooling in low spots. H. On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B" wrote: I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve |
Container cooling
"Steve Walker" wrote No, but I've wanted to. See below. The last link to a PDF is pretty informative. Watch the wrap. http://www.builditsolar.com/Experime...oofCooling.htm http://www.weknowexcel.com/autocool.htm http://txspace.di.tamu.edu/bitstream...pdf?sequence=1 -- Steve Walker Thank you, Steve. That is a wealth of information, and confirms my idea. It also showed me that I was intending to use too much water, and the fine spraying is what I need. I believe I can put a fine enough filter on my ag water to make it work, and perhaps use the regular mister systems, and use an additional filter or two on those lines. Monday is a holiday here in Utah, and Tuesday, my hired man is coming, and we're going to set trusses. It won't be long after that we'll be sheeting. Now I just have to put a good sealant on the joints, and I have that. I think it will make a huge difference on the inside, and give me about 9500 cubic feet of cooled enclosed shop area. Thanks again. Glad to see there's still a little intelligent life in this group. Steve |
Container cooling
"Howard Eisenhauer" wrote in message ... Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out due to water pooling in low spots. H. Roger that. I have 5 gallons of liquid goop that they use on RV roofs that I am going to pour on any concavities, or damage. Both roofs are very slightly convex. If this works the way I think it will, the water should not ever reach the containers, only the roof above them. Steve |
Container cooling
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer
wrote: Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out due to water pooling in low spots. H. Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in places and it did leak last winter. Gunner On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B" wrote: I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve -- Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath. Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head. |
Container cooling
On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer wrote: Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out due to water pooling in low spots. H. Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in places and it did leak last winter. Gunner On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B" wrote: I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve -- Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath. Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head. You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. |
Container cooling
On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote: I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. 40' long. Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. It is sloped with no peak. Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve Many large structures use chilled water for cooling or hot water heating. if you could score a condenser from one of these, just pump your water through and put a fan behind it. Way more efficient cooling. I'd give you one, if you want to go for a 1500 mile road trip. Karl |
Container cooling
Rex wrote: You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. You want a light color, to reflect most of the heat. -- It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch. |
Container cooling
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT), Rex
wrote: On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer wrote: Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out due to water pooling in low spots. H. Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in places and it did leak last winter. Gunner On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B" wrote: I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve -- Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath. Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head. You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some of that white roofing foam? Gunner -- Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath. Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head. |
Container cooling
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT), Rex You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some of that white roofing foam? So, spray the black goo and paint it white. What's roofing foam? If that's white (and lasts awhile) then it should be fine. Have Fun! Rich |
Container cooling
"Karl Townsend" wrote Many large structures use chilled water for cooling or hot water heating. if you could score a condenser from one of these, just pump your water through and put a fan behind it. Way more efficient cooling. I'd give you one, if you want to go for a 1500 mile road trip. Karl Thanks anyway. I'm saving for a plasma cutter and a Nikon. Steve |
Container cooling
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message ... On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote: "Gunner Asch" wrote in message You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some of that white roofing foam? Gunner BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all over the roof. Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood peckers. That was in Tucson, the Sonoran desert has plenty of Gila woodpeckers. The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal. http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html Art That...looks very very good and exactly what Im looking for! Many many thanks! Home Despot carries it one assumes? Ace Hardware is a non starter, at least locally..given the horrendous markups they use. That's where I bought it (HD) many moons ago. I also noted Iron Coat. Is that a better product for my application? No experience with that one. http://www.amespaint.com/mm5/merchan...ategory_Code=1 Its a bit..pricey isnt it? It used to be. Donno about today. It's really excellent stuff and worth the $ IMO. Art Gunner -- Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath. Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head. |
Container cooling
On Jul 24, 6:42*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote: "Gunner Asch" wrote in message You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. *Perhaps some of that white roofing foam? Gunner BTDT. *Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. *It sounds hollow when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all over the roof. Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood peckers. The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal. http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html Art That...looks very very good and exactly what Im looking for! Many many thanks! *Home Despot carries it one assumes? Ace Hardware is a non starter, at least locally..given the horrendous markups they use. I also noted Iron Coat. *Is that a better product for my application? http://www.amespaint.com/mm5/merchan...tore_Code=AWM&.... Its a bit..pricey isnt it? Gunner I saw some aluminized roofing compound at Orchard Supply when I was living in CA many years back, looked like it was basically tar with enough aluminum powder to help with the heat problem. Fairly cheap at the time. Not sure how well it'd seal leaks, you could always go the blackjack and beercan route to seal those, though. Stan |
Container cooling
On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 06:43:13 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote: wrote: On Jul 24, 6:42 pm, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote: "Gunner Asch" wrote in message You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. Its a very good idea. However..the sun here in the desert is rather strong during the summer months and putting a layer of "black" along the entire horizontal cover does seem a bit counter intuitive. Perhaps some of that white roofing foam? Gunner BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all over the roof. Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood peckers. The best stuff I've used is Snow Seal. http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html Art That...looks very very good and exactly what Im looking for! Many many thanks! Home Despot carries it one assumes? Ace Hardware is a non starter, at least locally..given the horrendous markups they use. I also noted Iron Coat. Is that a better product for my application? http://www.amespaint.com/mm5/merchan...tore_Code=AWM&... Its a bit..pricey isnt it? Gunner I saw some aluminized roofing compound at Orchard Supply when I was living in CA many years back, looked like it was basically tar with enough aluminum powder to help with the heat problem. Fairly cheap at the time. Not sure how well it'd seal leaks, you could always go the blackjack and beercan route to seal those, though. That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast. Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full effect of the sun take its toll. Thanks! Gunner -- Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath. Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head. |
Container cooling
Gunner Asch wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast. Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full effect of the sun take its toll. Snow Seal is made for that job. It is white, and reflect a lot of heat. It holds up well here in Florida, where other roof compounds die in a year or two. The 'Snow' part refers to the bright white color, not for where it was made to be used. :) Here are the specifictions form the OEM: http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html -- It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch. |
Container cooling
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast. Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full effect of the sun take its toll. Snow Seal is made for that job. It is white, and reflect a lot of heat. It holds up well here in Florida, where other roof compounds die in a year or two. The 'Snow' part refers to the bright white color, not for where it was made to be used. :) Here are the specifictions form the OEM: http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html I remember that stuff being all over the place down there - 30 years ago. -- Richard Lamb http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb http://www.home.earthlink.net/~sv_temptress |
Container cooling
On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote: I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. I'm probably going to have to just try it. I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? At my last house I ran one of the perforated sprinkler hoses over the roof of the shed. It cooled down to 30 C from an interior temperature of 48 C in about 20 minutes. I did the planned job, then went indoors to the real airconditioning. Whenever I needed to do anything in the shed in summer I used this system, probably only used about 100 litres of water an hour, shed was 15 metres x 5 metres. Alan |
Container cooling
CaveLamb wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: Michael A. Terrell wrote: That used to be common around here, till Snow Seal became readily available. It lasts a lot longer than aluminized roofing compound, in that it doesn't shrink and crack as fast. Here in the high desert..summer temps of 110-120 are not unusual, so I get concerned about putting Stuff on top of metal and letting the full effect of the sun take its toll. Snow Seal is made for that job. It is white, and reflect a lot of heat. It holds up well here in Florida, where other roof compounds die in a year or two. The 'Snow' part refers to the bright white color, not for where it was made to be used. :) Here are the specifictions form the OEM: http://www.amesresearch.com/_SnowSeal.html I remember that stuff being all over the place down there - 30 years ago. It has a long useful life, so it may have saturated the market. -- It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch. |
Container cooling
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:14:15 -0700, "Artemus" wrote: BTDT. Woodpeckers love the foam roofing stuff. It sounds hollow when they peck on it so they proceed and peck ****loads of holes all over the roof. Wood peckers? I dont think Ive seen one here in this area in the 35 yrs Ive lived here. High desert doesnt seem to provide much fare for wood peckers. If you're talking about the bird, it's one word: "woodpecker." A wood pecker (2 wds) is a cheap dildo. Hope This Helps! Rich |
Container cooling
Rex on Sun, 24 Jul 2011 05:10:47 -0700 (PDT)
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: On Jul 24, 4:40*am, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 00:17:28 -0300, Howard Eisenhauer wrote: Check the condition of the container roofs, I've seen them rust out due to water pooling in low spots. H. Indeed. When I finally get my 24' seatrain home in a week or so..Im going to have to retar` or coat or so something with the roof. The majority of it is aluminum..but the roof is steel and has rusted in places and it did leak last winter. Gunner On Sat, 23 Jul 2011 16:38:43 -0700, "Steve B" wrote: I'm currently putting trusses across two containers 16' apart. *Each container is 8' wide with a 16' space between. *40' long. *Trusses are 32' long to allow a rain overhang. *It is sloped with no peak. *Total sf is 1280. My intent was to take the sun load off the top of the containers. *There will also be double doors on each end of the space to be able to enclose the space between from our vicious winds. *I will put a swamp cooler in each container. I was wondering if I put a recirculating water pump to flow water over the roof and outside vertical east and west sides if that would cool it very much. *I'm probably going to have to just try it. *I get ag water, so there's no problem about added cost. Anyone ever done this? Steve -- Maxim 12: A soft answer turneth away wrath. Once wrath is looking the other way, shoot it in the head. You guys might take a look at the spray-on bedliner stuff for a tough weatherproof sealer. Snowhite Roof covering. Much preferred where insolation is high (meaning that there is a lot of sunshine). As for cooling the sides and top - "double wall". I think it was Buckminster Fuller who designed a double walled, all metal portable hut back inthe forties. (I think for the War Department.) While the outside wall got very hot, the air gap allowed for a flow "up" and out the top, which kept the inside cooler. Neat idea, but the Army went with the Quonset hut, instead. One other idea for cooling, keeping air flow going, is to paint the roof white, then add a stove pipe painted black. That way a) the roof stays "cool" but the stove pipe will cause a draft as hot air flows up and out, drawing fresh(er) air in. Steward Brand, Editor of The Whole Earth News, did that with his container turned office - no need for A/C or power consumption. -- pyotr filipivich We will drink no whiskey before its nine. It's eight fifty eight. Close enough! |
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